Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

[wiz]

Skoak running sale now for their odd stocks, big selection

https://www.skoaktiebolaget.com/collections/odd-stock

 

[evangel21]

Hi, just wondering if there are any good recommendations for loafers socks? Mine from muji/uniqlo seems to always slip out. Side point, am looking for suede double monks actually. Any idea if meermin’s are any good?

I also have the same issue with those socks from muji and uniqlo. Suspect is the fit of the socks to my feet shape.

As for meermins, I would recommend not to based on mine and others experience. But YMMV. If it fits you and you like the design and the price fits your budget, why not?
But I would recommend upping a bit and go for Carlos Santos or Yanko.

 

[cokiee]

Would anyone know how the carmina rain last compare to the EB 804 please?

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[htngwilliam]

What about toe socks? I realized they are better in terms of blister management

 

[thundermarch]

Would anyone know how the carmina rain last compare to the EB 804 please?

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The 804 in comparison, is more elongated, has a wider toe box, and a significantly higher instep.
I would generally advise sizing down 0.5 compared to your Rain last sizing.

 

[evangel21]

The 804 in comparison, is more elongated, has a wider toe box, and a significantly higher instep.
I would generally advise sizing down 0.5 compared to your Rain last sizing.

Agree with TM. To add on, I find Rain's heel too big for me. 804 fits better for me at the heel.

 

[derkaiser94]

Can someone who owns shoes from Loake 1880 as well as the MTO range from Edetal advise if both their fit and size is the same? Thank you.

 

[cokiee]

The 804 in comparison, is more elongated, has a wider toe box, and a significantly higher instep.
I would generally advise sizing down 0.5 compared to your Rain last sizing.

Agree with TM. To add on, I find Rain's heel too big for me. 804 fits better for me at the heel.

Thanks, both. I know my EB size but am considering carminas so its size up then.

Cheers!

 

[evangel21]

Thanks, both. I know my EB size but am considering carminas so its size up then.

Cheers!

No worries. Personally I love Carmina's inca last. Just wish they have more rtw in inca.

 

[thundermarch]

No worries. Personally I love Carmina's inca last. Just wish they have more rtw in inca.

Funnily, Carmina seems to market all their Inca lasted shoes as "premium", and they consequently are usually a bit more expensive.

Granted it's a really nice last (and also probably my favorite Carmina last). But the only difference I see is the tapered heel.

By the way, Happy CNY everyone.

 

[wrinklednails]

Guys

Wanted to know how to polish the toe cap to mirror gloss. Do we need to heat up the saphir wax till it melts before we polish off with water? I presume we should cost a thin layer and keep polishing till it becomes mirror gloss? Likely 5-10 coat is needed?

when you apply the first few thin layers of wax (and water) to shine, you can feel that the surface is 'rough'. as you add on wax thin layer by thin layer, you will feel the polishing get smoother and smoother and the shine start to come. my first mirror gloss took me about an hour and a half to achieve, lost count of the number of layers but probably 15-20. subsequent shines would be easier

it's gonna be quite hard to achieve the hard shine that you see in photos using saphir's 'normal' wax. it's better to get the hard gloss wax if you really want the mirror shine.

 

[wrinklednails]

is it important to get a pair of expensive workin leather shoes etc? Can rad Russell hush puppies be sufficient? What’s e logic behind all the good Brand’s? Comfy? Nice looking?

many of the common brands you mentioned might be considered more comfortable by many because their soles and insoles are padded and so give a softer, plusher feel.

the 'expensive' working shoes on the other hand often lack these new shoe 'technology' as they are often made using traditional methods. the leather sole and insole moulds to your feet after wearing them in

my experience is that the brands you mentioned are not built to last. often they break (sole split) after a year or so. if you have the budget ($250-$300 can get you a pair from local brands like EEA and LLYR), you should def try them out. some ecco or geox shoes already cost that much anyway!

you can always add a front half rubber to extend the life of a well made pair of shoes and they can easily last 3 years and up. average that cost out and they're actually cheaper than changing a pair of the rad russell/hush puppies/aldo etc shoes yearly

 

[wrinklednails]

If I pass by Robinson's I will drop by and take a look. I can make a better guess at construction if the shoes are in front of me.

$299 is quite a decent price to pay for a welted shoe (if it is one).

For Italian makers, they probably have the widest (and most confusing) range of construction methods, from Blake stitching, Blake Rapid, handwelting, cemented, Bologna, Norvegese. Some makers have lines in every one of these methods.

Of course, you are right. It is always best to go try on the shoes to know what's best for you.

EEA's cheaper range is Blake stitched, as compared to his regular GYW stuff. Meaning there is one row of stitching between the uppers, insole and outsole. It's a quicker, cheaper way of constructing shoes compared to welting, and generally cannot be re-soled, or only with much difficulty. It is meant to be palatable to the more budget conscious. If it fits your feet and your budget, and is what you are looking for, for your photo shoot, nothing wrong with it at all. I think it is very reasonably priced.

Looking at the pictures, you will also notice that for the Blake range, the outsoles are less thick, and also trimmed right up against the uppers. This is most likely done to give the shoes a more sleek appearance. Which is nice, of course. But this also means that there is less outsole to wear down before they are completely worn through. And the protective effect (of the uppers) of a welt / outsole is also lost.

recently topied a pair of lion and the star range shoes.. your description is on point and can be generalised to most other blake stitch construction. in addition, blake stitched shoes are noticeably lighter and much more flexible right out of the box.

personally, i feel that in SG's context, it isn't economical to resole a GYW pair of shoes if you take into consideration the shipping costs and turn-around time.

 

[wrinklednails]

200gbp is about 380 sgd.
Their shipping is quite fast, probably 3 days + processing time.

If its your first pair, I'd recommend grabbing the dainite soled version instead.
Singapore climate isn't really kind to leather soles.

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getting a pair of leather soled one and adding a front rubber half sole (topy) would allow you to enjoy the best of both worlds!

 

[wrinklednails]

Another alternative is earnest and collective. One pair ard 129, tried two paris from them but am looking to try other makes without exceeding my next budget of 200.

Hope to see other recommendations other than EEA.

earnest and collective is ultimately still cement constructed. if i'm not wrong they do offer 1 free resole but beyond that, blake stitched or GYW still present a more lasting quality

 

[wrinklednails]

Wiz,

A long post to thank everyone on this thread, including you, for helping me.

I don't know anything about shoes so I ran the advice I received here through a qualitative / quantitative analysis, based on;

• cost per wear
• comfort
• cut (shape of shoe)
• construction

On cost per wear, I decided to spend above SGD$450 to get access to longer lasting features. Am expecting shoe life in rotation to go 5+ years vs my experience of 3 years for shoes less than SGD$450. I also factored in topied soles and lasted shoe trees because I selected special shapes (see below) and the normal shoe trees wont fit / will distort the shoe.

On comfort, my foot is exactly UK 9.5 but slightly wide so I tried on where possible, sized up half size for narrower lasts and checked return policy when buying on line.

If I am going to drop +$450 on a shoe I want something special so I went for strongly profiled but conservative not dandy if you know what I mean.

I don't really know much about construction so, for me just general quality impression and finishing plus extra points for hand welted so I can get them resoled if necessary.

I looked at 10 brands and shortlisted Antonio Meccariello, Vass and Bonafe with the condition that I pick them up on special wherever possible

I will post two of the models I bought because I thought a comparison might be useful;

• Vass U last black oxford captoe, size 10UK, hand welted, on special at Jeeves for SGD$699 inc lasted trees, since reduced to about SGD$659
• Bonafe mid brown 946 oxford adelaide captoe, size 9.5UK, handwelted on special at Seamless Bespoke SGD$618 incl lasted trees at SGD$120

I have some pics in Singapore conditions which I will post just as soon I figure out how.

To be continued .......

good idea to get them topied, especially if frequently wearing outdoors in SG conditions and climate!

 

[wrinklednails]

Got myself a pair of Archie penny loafer by Jack Erwin. Quality is top notch for it's price.

GY welted too They have other basic designs. Good for people looking at lower price range but quality pair of shoes.

Hmm, just need to find someone to topy it. LOL.

i see a pair of insoles in the background of your first photo. they provide an additional pair of leather insoles as standard?

 

[wrinklednails]

last black friday i got some shoes from Carmina and Allen Edmonds, the carminas are mostly already rubber soled (called forest last or something) but the AEs are leather soled, was wondering if you guys usually go to a cobbler to get a rubber sole like vibrams stuck on it or just wear it as it is? i do quite a bit of walking in my job so was figuring it make sense to get a rubber sole added on.. where do u guys usually get it done? can diy? haha thanks

to get it done well, DIY is challenging because you'll need a sanding belt to be able to achieve a rubber sole that is flushed with the rest of the shoe. i would strongly advise against simply slapping on a piece of rubber onto the original sole as is, which is the standard quality of many 'roadside cobblers'. buying just one pair front sole isn't the most economical. sending it to those recommended cobblers for $20-$25 to save yourself the trouble is a pretty good bargain, you can also drop them off with me

 

[wrinklednails]

what was the damage?





Very true, i'm now looking more to fit and comfort first.
any other local makers for RTW for recommendation?

can try custom made. i believe they're on CNY break at the moment though.

 

[wrinklednails]

What about toe socks? I realized they are better in terms of blister management

i've been wearing toe socks for quite a while now (ever since i jumped onto the whole barefoot/minimalist shoe movement).

sad to say the only suitable 'dress' toe socks i've been able to find are from byford and they don't make them in more premium materials, just the usual combed cotton.