*Official* Shiny Things club - Part 2

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tangent314

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Hi shiny things :)

May I know your thoughts about astrea bonds ?
Seems like a good way to make up the bond component:s13:

NO NO NO NO NO.

You do not use a single bond to make up bond component unless it's like an AAA rated government bond. As ST says in the book, get a bond ETF like MBH so that one bond defaulting won't screw you over.
 

Wonderer haha

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IWDA is listed on the London Stocks Exchange, so none of the locally available RSPs can support that. You will have to purchase this manually, and depending on how much you want to purchase and how often, the recommended brokers are IBKR or SCB.

If you really need to RSP, a decent alternative with higher annual management fees is to use one of these two unit trusts from Lion Global: All Seasons Fund (Growth) or Infinity Global Stock Index Fund. Buy these through either POEMS or DollarDex.

Erm how about MoneyOwl Dimensional fund vs Lion Global?
 

Shiny Things

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Applied for MKE MIP a few days ago, just received a call from CSO saying that the program will be suspended indefinitely so they will not be going ahead with the application. News not made official yet but announced internally yesterday morning :(

What's the next best way to purchase MBH?

Drat and bother. Can someone please post in here if MBKE officially announces that they're suspending MIP?

In the meantime: Stanchart is the best way to buy MBH, though I understand that the costs are higher than buying things through POSB IS.

Erm how about MoneyOwl Dimensional fund vs Lion Global?

No, come on. All of these funds have hefty platform and management fees. Just use IWDA; it'll work out a lot cheaper in the long term.

Hi shiny things :)

May I know your thoughts about astrea bonds ?
Seems like a good way to make up the bond component:s13:
Thank you

Is Astrea V a good bond component? Other than having difficulties if you want to buy/sell in secondary markets.

Thanks in advance

No! As people pointed out, you don't want to put your entire bond allocation in one name - if that name goes bankrupt, you're completely screwed.

It's sort of baffling to me that on one hand people are worrying about FDIC insurance (which, as BBCW pointed out, works so well that most of the time you won't even notice it's happening) but on the other hand they're happy to lend completely unsecured to Temasek so they can punt private equity with your money and keep the upside for themselves.

I think this has been mentioned before, but not exactly the same as my situation:
If I am already purchasing ES3 and IWDA regularly, does it make sense to participate in my employer's stock purchase plan? There is no discount but it is capital guaranteed.

This is an amazing deal. Take it, and just sell the stock as soon as the capital guarantee expires.

1. Correct me if I am wrong, it sounds like once the shares are transferred to your CDP, you are subject to capital loss just like any other shareholder? The capital guarantee is overrated if it is only for 24 months.

2. 24 months seems so long. Do you get dividends during that 24 months? If not, then this is worse off than a normal shareholder.

You're missing something big here: if you've got a 24-month capital guarantee, the company's writing you a 2-year ATM put option on the stock FOR FREE. If it goes up you keep the upside; if it goes down you don't lose anything at all. That's a fantastic deal; it's worth way more than the dividends would be.

if a movement of 2-3% tantamount to a 6 digit sum P/L effects, would it make sense to rebalance more frequently? or should still stick with twice a year rebalancing?

No. You care about percentages, not about dollar amounts.

Thanks for the explanation.

I've downloaded the mobile app, however its still unclear to me what the NBBO price is. Is it clear on the buy order screen?

If you're on iOS, the best bid and offer are the numbers right next to "Bid" and "Ask" up the top of the screen.

When entering IWDA, there are two options to buy from : IWDA IShares Core Msci World "AEB" or "LSE ETF". What difference does it make buying from the different stock exchanges? Is there one to always opt for?

You want the LSE one. The AEB one is the Amsterdam listing.

Well yes... But not exactly. I ''feel'' like I wish to take more risk while I'm still young. The margin will give me a growth spurt to jump start my first 10 years, thereafter, allowing the portfolio to compound monstrously after.

''If only I could hasten the slow accumulation in the beginning and rush to see compounding effects''

Posted from PCWX using Redmi Note 3

I think what you've got there is bloodlust.

The problem with leveraging up to the eyeballs early is that if there's a big downturn in the markets, it will hit you even harder - and the compounding effect of losses will hurt you even more. You'll end up basically having to restart from a much lower base... and god help you if you get wiped out entirely two or three years into your investing journey.

That's too much risk for new investors to handle. Leverage is not a good idea for most people.
 

smart alex

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NO NO NO NO NO.

You do not use a single bond to make up bond component unless it's like an AAA rated government bond. As ST says in the book, get a bond ETF like MBH so that one bond defaulting won't screw you over.

yes agreed, dun put everything into one bond, maybe put a few K as diverse investment
 

yellownova

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In the meantime: Stanchart is the best way to buy MBH, though I understand that the costs are higher than buying things through POSB IS.

Another side question, if you already are buying into 1 bond etf, is there still a need to pursue others? Let's say if they are made up of different sectors, but they overlap. Or should just topping up/rebalance is enough?
 

eD1s0n

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Another side question, if you already are buying into 1 bond etf, is there still a need to pursue others? Let's say if they are made up of different sectors, but they overlap. Or should just topping up/rebalance is enough?

You don't need to, but you can. Personally I hold one that is mainly in SGD bonds and one in international.

Alternatively you can slice it as govvies Vs corp
 

smart alex

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Another side question, if you already are buying into 1 bond etf, is there still a need to pursue others? Let's say if they are made up of different sectors, but they overlap. Or should just topping up/rebalance is enough?

Ur bond etf is it A35?
 

littleredboy

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It is true, Maybank MIP will be discontinued. I went down to north canal and they said they can't open MIP for me already, says they are discontinuing. They should be releasing the news next week.
 
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There's almost always a cost to liberate those U.S. dollars. One recent exception is DBS's "USA Remit."


No, absolutely no trouble "claiming." There's no claim to make; it's all handled automatically. The typical pattern is that U.S. federal marshals swoop in (with FDIC accountants) on a Friday afternoon, close the failed bank, and you're then the customer of an acquiring bank on Monday morning. If/as applicable, your debit/ATM card still works over the weekend. Moreover, if by some chance you happen to be a customer of the acquiring bank already, the FDIC makes sure that your total deposit insurance isn't reduced for at least the first 6 months.

This is absolutely ironclad U.S. government insurance, well proven since the 1930s. It works for everyone, as long as you respect the generous limit (US$250,000, more if you work with the bank to title accounts correctly).(*) It works even better than the SDIC for Singapore dollars. It's really quite remarkable.

I can personally attest to how this works. I held a CD at a U.S. bank that failed, and I kept every penny, with no action required. The federal marshals closed the bank on a random Friday afternoon. The acquiring bank converted the CD (and accrued interest to that point) to an ordinary savings account. (Some acquiring banks will continue CDs to term, with onward interest, but they're not required to do that.) On Monday morning, or at any time, I could decide whether I wanted to keep that new savings account or shift the funds elsewhere (to a more attractive CD), or some of both. Absolutely nothing was required. No claim form, no phone call, no nothing -- all automatic, all insured throughout. Even online banking continued to work, statements kept coming (new bank, new logo). Smooth as butter.


It doesn't require any "faith": foreign currency deposits in Singapore are completely uninsured! There is no SDIC, no MAS, no government, no nothing. You're on your own, and the government tells you that.

So you can get 3% U.S. federal government insured (CD Bank), 3% U.S. state insured (example), or you can (maybe) get 3% completely uninsured, and with a "liberation fee" possible at the end.

Your choice, but I think it's pretty dumb not to take one of the first deals on the table.

(*) If you're above the insurance limit (don't do that, but if), the portion of your bank deposit(s) above FDIC or NCUA insurance limits automatically turns into the #1 most senior claim against the failed bank, ahead of all other creditors and stockholders. Also, it doesn't matter what currencies you keep on deposit at a FDIC or NCUA insured institution. Unlike the SDIC, the FDIC and NCUA do not discriminate against foreign currencies. The insurance limit and insurance is U.S. dollar denominated, but any non-U.S. dollar deposits are assessed at fair market value and still insured. Yes, oddly enough the FDIC and NCUA would probably provide better (higher) insurance on Singapore dollar deposits hypothetically held at a U.S. bank or U.S. credit union than the SDIC does.
after all that u explained on the merits of SIPC & FDIC, if they know... they know.

thanks for your explanation on US offshore discount brokers though, gave me a better understanding!

I love IB & TD.
 
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There's an important concept you will want to grasp first, it's called
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Risk_of_ruin

If you simply long a stock and it drops 50% like in 2007-2008, you still own the stock and can wait for it to recover. If you 2x leverage on that same stock and it drops 50%, you're getting force-sell and lose everything and get nothing even when the market recovers.
TOTALLY
(everyone should re-read this like 50 times)
 
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Hmm let's say if I am already 65 and preparing to draw down my investment in IWDA etc, do I need to be alarmed if the overall profit&loss shown in the IBKR app is negative ? Can I just continue drawing down if this is the case ?
 

limster

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Hmm let's say if I am already 65 and preparing to draw down my investment in IWDA etc, do I need to be alarmed if the overall profit&loss shown in the IBKR app is negative ? Can I just continue drawing down if this is the case ?

If you have been investing in IWDA regularly from young and when you reach 65 your P/L is negative, then yes you have to be alarmed, because 99.9% of long-term IWDA investors will be showing a positive p/l on reaching retirement :s22:.
 

Fcesca

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If you're on iOS, the best bid and offer are the numbers right next to "Bid" and "Ask" up the top of the screen.



You want the LSE one. The AEB one is the Amsterdam listing.

Thank you. I have tried to place a trade, however it says I do not have enough settled cash. I definitely have enough cash in my account to make the trade. Is it because I need to convert my SGD into USD before buying IWDA? Do I do this simply by buying under USD.SGD?

Since I have some GBP in my account, I thought I would try buy SWDA. However, the price is above GBP 4k per share :eek: How come it is so different?
 
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