Fundamental electric current issue

icelava

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Need to pick the knowledge of those with electrical background.

I ordered from Aracade1Up a classic arcade machine with Street Fighter 2 games onboard.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q47PJTF/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

It's finally arrived after sailing through the oceans, and I see the power adapter input is rated 110-240V 50-60Hz, max 1A.

I'm confused about the current part. 1A, at all voltage levels? 1A at 110V is lesser energy than 1A at 240V. What will its actual power consumption be like? Is it safe enough to simply plug it direct into the wall socket, or still need a transformer to step down the current?
 

wwenze

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A voltage rating like 110-240V means it can use both 110V and 240V

The 1A rating to tell you to make sure your home wiring can supply that, the actual power consumption is much lower.
 

Koenig168

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You can plug into the wall socket.

btw shipping must have cost a bomb!
 

Northernray

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It's finally arrived after sailing through the oceans, and I see the power adapter input is rated 110-240V 50-60Hz, max 1A.

I'm confused about the current part. 1A, at all voltage levels? 1A at 110V is lesser energy than 1A at 240V. What will its actual power consumption be like? Is it safe enough to simply plug it direct into the wall socket, or still need a transformer to step down the current?

Meaning, the power adapter can output max. 1a at 240v. The device will not draw 1amp in normal operation else the bundled adapter must be higher than 1amp rating.

US plug don't usually fit our type G power socket, you might need to get adapter or change the US plug to UK type G plug.

You can plug it into SG power socket since the adapter is auto voltage 110-240V 50-60Hz.
 

icelava

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After reading around some more, I decided to take the dive and see what happens (hopefully not a pop) on connection. Thankfully the arcade machine powered up normally and we could play.

I'm still puzzled by the 1A specification though, since it does not explicit state what voltage it applies to.
 

Godeau

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I'm still puzzled by the 1A specification though, since it does not explicit state what voltage it applies to.

It'll draw up to a maximum of 1A that it requires from the power requirements(you'll need a wattmeter for that), regardless of voltage input.

So in simple terms, the amount of current it draws depends on your voltage(240) and the power requirements of the arcade machine at that point in time.
 

icelava

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Meaning, the power adapter can output max. 1a at 240v. The device will not draw 1amp in normal operation else the bundled adapter must be higher than 1amp rating.

US plug don't usually fit our type G power socket, you might need to get adapter or change the US plug to UK type G plug.

You can plug it into SG power socket since the adapter is auto voltage 110-240V 50-60Hz.
I already have a US plug adapter so that was long covered.

The thing is that 1A ratingis part of the input specs. Its output is DC 12V 3A.
 

icelava

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It'll draw up to a maximum of 1A that it requires from the power requirements(you'll need a wattmeter for that), regardless of voltage input.

So in simple terms, the amount of current it draws depends on your voltage(240) and the power requirements of the arcade machine at that point in time.
I guess simple in order to achieve its DC output of 12V at 3A (approx 36W), the input current will practically only flow a couple mA since there's more than enough voltage regardless of 110 to 240V.
 

Godeau

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I guess simple in order to achieve its DC output of 12V at 3A (approx 36W), the input current will practically only flow a couple mA since there's more than enough voltage regardless of 110 to 240V.

Yes. Usually, the current draw maximum(1A in this case) applies to the minimum voltage(110 of the US people), so theoretically the adapter is capable of supplying up to 110W of power, assuming 100% efficiency.
 

Northernray

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After reading around some more, I decided to take the dive and see what happens (hopefully not a pop) on connection. Thankfully the arcade machine powered up normally and we could play.

I'm still puzzled by the 1A specification though, since it does not explicit state what voltage it applies to.

Without specific rating of 110-240V 50-60Hz, max 1A, we assume 1amp is at 240v.

I already have a US plug adapter so that was long covered.

The thing is that 1A ratingis part of the input specs. Its output is DC 12V 3A.

Don't confused with the input AC rating 110-240V 50-60Hz, max 1A with the DC 12V 3amperes output. For DC device, our AC need to be rectify to DC through a circuit designed specially for it.

Our AC 230V (usually around AC 238v) go through a full bridge rectifier with a output of approximately DC 330v, the output will then be step down through step down transformer to DC 16v -14v output. This output will then regulated through a 12V voltage regulator IC or as simple as 12.7V zener Diode to get approximately 12.1V DC output. These are just some basic components from AC to DC 12v output, there are more supporting components like fuse, capacitor, resistor, optocoupler, and inductor etc.. in the circuit, a topic for another day.
 

wwenze

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Ok... look at these two adapters, same 12V 3A

This one is 0.5A

859900_1024x1024.jpg


This one is 1.5A

JYH-12V-3A-power-adaptor-36W-12.jpg


Moral of story: Don't think too hard. Trying to explain something you don't understand is dangerous.
 

Northernray

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It'll draw up to a maximum of 1A that it requires from the power requirements(you'll need a wattmeter for that), regardless of voltage input.

So in simple terms, the amount of current it draws depends on your voltage(240) and the power requirements of the arcade machine at that point in time.

You can still probe the ampere with a multimeter set to A~ by connecting it in series with the live without using a standalone wattmeter.

Be cautious doing this as AC230 live on the probes can be fatal.
 

wwenze

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Our AC 230V (usually around AC 238v) go through a full bridge rectifier with a output of approximately DC 330v, the output will then be step down through step down transformer to DC 16v -14v output. This output will then regulated through a 12V voltage regulator IC or as simple as 12.7V zener Diode to get approximately 12.1V DC output. These are just some basic components from AC to DC 12v output, there are more supporting components like fuse, capacitor, resistor, optocoupler, and inductor etc.. in the circuit, a topic for another day.

Ok, the fact that you said

- 230V go through a full bridge rectifier with a output of approximately DC 330v, the output will then be step down through step down transformer to DC 16v -14v output
DC does not jump across step down transformer

And you said "regulated through a 12V voltage regulator IC or as simple as 12.7V zener Diode to get approximately 12.1V DC output" (a linear regulator topology) and "optocoupler" (a component used in switched-mode topology and not in linear) in the same paragraph determined that there will not be a topic for another day.
 

haylui

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Need to pick the knowledge of those with electrical background.

I ordered from Aracade1Up a classic arcade machine with Street Fighter 2 games onboard.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q47PJTF/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

It's finally arrived after sailing through the oceans, and I see the power adapter input is rated 110-240V 50-60Hz, max 1A.

I'm confused about the current part. 1A, at all voltage levels? 1A at 110V is lesser energy than 1A at 240V. What will its actual power consumption be like? Is it safe enough to simply plug it direct into the wall socket, or still need a transformer to step down the current?

You need to take the 1A term as is due to it stated Max.
Means it won't be exceeding 1A under any voltage written in the label.

240V maybe take 0.5A and 110V maybe 1A but max is 1A.

That's it.
 

icelava

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Thanks everybody for the info; I now have a clearer understanding what that ampere rating is indicating.
 
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