Where to tailor clothes =D - Part 3

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fabiaN__

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have u tried their pure wool? how is it?



changing material is the only way out for the creases behind the knees?

u guys got me tempted to try Kay Jen :s13:
VBC Perennials are ok for daily wear and starters. Can move up the "hierarchy" as you go along..

Otherwise can always try out wool blends (can go into the washing machine) for a start to get a feel of the cut and fit.
 

Clinomania

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Full canvassed construction cheaper than famous local factory, and cheapest local factory don’t do CMT suits because high risk of error. Too high risk for too Low returns because I use expensive Dormeuil or Scabal fabrics. Trust me, I visited many factories myself. in fact, if you visit the cheapest of them whom I suspect outsource to Batam, they will tell you only 1 customer CMT pants with them. And that’s me. For someone new to tailoring, if you go to factory, you will not be entertained unless you know clearly what you want. Factory will give you the swatch books ( no European fabrics) and ask you to pick fabric , measure you and ask some options that you want, that’s it. zero fabric consultation, purpose of wear, what looks good for your body etc. If you have many questions, you are wasting their time. They are there to receive orders from boutique tailor shops, draft, cut, sew, not to serve retail customers. Of course, if you already have tailored pants like I do, you can bring to factory to copy. So if you have a vision of something that you want, but don’t have it yet to copy, no point going to factory, that is the job of fabric consultant and designer that Sakal is good at.You want service and European fabrics, you go to boutique tailor shops.

can read this blog article to find out the local industry , but there is more to it. As I said, my fabric customers are retired cutters, tailors and employees of boutique tailor shops, so I get insights of the industry from time to time.

https://www.ethanmen.com/2020/07/truths-behind-the-business-of-tailored-suits-in-singapore/
this is not unique to Singapore. HK is the same, with the factories and workshops in Shenzhen.
You are clearly visiting the wrong 'factories' then. Trust me, I've visited many local 'factories', and I've ordered many European fabrics through them. I know the makers of most boutique tailors, high end, or otherwise. What's with all the anecdotes?

Fabric consultant and designer which Sakal is good at? Like the 10 pocket cargo shorts? Or being fitted with a bulging crotch line?

But really, you know nothing about the local tailoring scene and only bring anecdotes here.
 

darthsid11111

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You are clearly visiting the wrong 'factories' then. Trust me, I've visited many local 'factories', and I've ordered many European fabrics through them. I know the makers of most boutique tailors, high end, or otherwise. What's with all the anecdotes?

Fabric consultant and designer which Sakal is good at? Like the 10 pocket cargo shorts? Or being fitted with a bulging crotch line?

But really, you know nothing about the local tailoring scene and only bring anecdotes here.
Bro why do you want to waste time giving him a proper reply knowing he's going to give you a hastily googled WOT answer? Just remind periodically remind people here that he's a ignorant hack.

If you know how to Google, you already know as much as that shill and his friends at Sakal.
 

onizuka3

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Yes, unless you don't bend your knees.

300 doesn't go far at KJ, so it's likely to be entry-level wool bunches like VBC's Perennial, which by all means, it's not bad at all. I suggest you try Yeossal or Collaro first if you are still new to this.

VBC Perennials are ok for daily wear and starters. Can move up the "hierarchy" as you go along..

Otherwise can always try out wool blends (can go into the washing machine) for a start to get a feel of the cut and fit.

just looked through both Yeossal & Collaro

seems like Yeossal is leaning towards the classic fit, waist band sit higher

u guys went for their classic cut? or tune it to a slightly lower rise?
 

darthsid11111

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$150 for shirts, around $200 for pants I still cannot find a tailor that I like for pants

have u tried both of them? u did the measurements in store?

Yeossal got fabrics which caught my attention
Honestly I don't think that it is worth tailoring shirts in SG unless you have very specific style choices that can't be met. At the low to mid end you're getting a CMT shirt. I recently started buying shirts from Kamakura again and I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of a $120 OTR. The seams are fine, stitches dense, collars + cuffs unlined and the fabric as good as if not better than many brand name ones at the lower range. You're looking at spending over $200 at a local tailor to even come close.

In this respect I would strongly suggest purchasing OTR and altering to fit.

Pants, are an entirely different matter. Find a tailor who drafts and cuts so that the fit is bespoke. Kayjen is one of those who have been mentioned here. A good pair of bespoke fitting pants is something worth investing in if you have the patience and money. You'll have to accept that your first few pairs will be far from perfect but they will get better. Personally I don't have the patience or the need to as I have been working from home since the pandemic started.

WRT to creasing on trousers, if you notice an abnormally high rate of creasing it simply means the fit is bad lah. Too tight and you'll have deeper and more creasing. Wool in itself has better crease resistance compared to cotton or linen. However weave and fabric density plays a role as well. The more "body" a fabric has would means you'll experience "rumpling" more that sharp creasing.

Without images, its hard to definitively diagnose whether its the fabric or fit.
 
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Clinomania

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just looked through both Yeossal & Collaro

seems like Yeossal is leaning towards the classic fit, waist band sit higher

u guys went for their classic cut? or tune it to a slightly lower rise?
You can always ask for a lower rise. I personally prefer a high rise myself.
 

Clinomania

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Honestly I don't think that it is worth tailoring shirts in SG unless you have very specific style choices that can't be met. At the low to mid end you're getting a CMT shirt. I recently started buying shirts from Kamakura again and I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of a $120 OTR. The seams are fine, stitches dense, collars + cuffs unlined and the fabric as good as if not better than many brand name ones at the lower range. You're looking at spending over $200 at a local tailor to even come close.

In this respect I would strongly suggest purchasing OTR and altering to fit.

Pants, are an entirely different matter. Find a tailor who drafts and cuts so that the fit is bespoke. Kayjen is one of those who have been mentioned here. A good pair of bespoke fitting pants is something worth investing in if you have the patience and money. You'll have to accept that your first few pairs will be far from perfect but they will get better. Personally I don't have the patience or the need to as I have been working from home since the pandemic started.

WRT to creasing on trousers, if you notice an abnormally high rate of creasing it simply means the fit is bad lah. Too tight and you'll have deeper and more creasing. Wool in itself has better crease resistance compared to cotton or linen. However weave and fabric density plays a role as well. The more "body" a fabric has would means you'll experience "rumpling" more that sharp creasing.

Without images, its hard to definitively diagnose whether its the fabric or fit.
If fit is his priority then he will be hard pressed to find a RTW shirt which accommodates to his athletic physique. Honestly Collaro is not bad, they have all the works at a relatively affordable price range albeit fused, shanked buttons, high SPI, soft interlinings, etc. Oh but side note, Decorum SG is bringing in Kamakura shirts in April, will be a great opportunity then to try out the shirts.
 

paladin

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You are clearly visiting the wrong 'factories' then. Trust me, I've visited many local 'factories', and I've ordered many European fabrics through them. I know the makers of most boutique tailors, high end, or otherwise. What's with all the anecdotes?

Fabric consultant and designer which Sakal is good at? Like the 10 pocket cargo shorts? Or being fitted with a bulging crotch line?

But really, you know nothing about the local tailoring scene and only bring anecdotes here.
Wow, you can share the name and address of the local 'factories' where you can buy European fabrics and tailor with them?

That will be great service to all forumers here and we can save money cutting off the boutique tailors if you are right and the agents carrying these Europeans fabrics will be very rich while we wear better fabrics! Surely that's what every forumer here wants?

Come on, share the good news!

ps: what brands of European fabrics are available? Got Scabal, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Zegna and Loro Piana? What's the prices for them? since you ordered before? Cheaper than from NJB? wow, so many questions for all forumers to learn to save money tailoring from local factories using european fabrics!

you can not affiliated with boutique tailors right? Can share?

Forumers: if you want to find out where you can tailor European fabrics at local factories here, give my post a 'Like"!..haha...can save money for you!
 
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Clinomania

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Wow, you can share the name and address of the local 'factories' where you can buy European fabrics and tailor with them?

That will be great service to all forumers here and we can save money cutting off the boutique tailors if you are right and the agents carrying these Europeans fabrics will be very rich while we wear better fabrics! Surely that's what every forumer here wants?

Come on, share the good news!

ps: what brands of European fabrics are available? Got Scabal, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Zegna and Loro Piana? What's the prices for them? since you ordered before? Cheaper than from NJB? wow, so many questions for all forumers to learn to save money tailoring from local factories using european fabrics!

you can not affiliated with boutique tailors right? Can share?

Forumers: if you want to find out where you can tailor European fabrics at local factories here, give my post a 'Like"!..haha...can save money for you!
Pay a visit to Yong Seng then.
 

Clinomania

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No bro. Suckal is the way to go.
Not sure why he had the impression that European fabrics are not accessible to the masses. One can literally walk into Ee Chong Loong or even Italian Fabrics to purchase them outright. Oh wow, everything is making sense now actually - he has a vested interest in selling fabrics which is why he tries to perpetuate the idea that his wares are exclusive when it is clearly not. But really, if you guys are keen, just go Ee Chong Loong and you will find all the European fabrics which are likely to be cheaper than his nonsense.
 

darthsid11111

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Not sure why he had the impression that European fabrics are not accessible to the masses. One can literally walk into Ee Chong Loong or even Italian Fabrics to purchase them outright. Oh wow, everything is making sense now actually - he has a vested interest in selling fabrics which is why he tries to perpetuate the idea that his wares are exclusive when it is clearly not. But really, if you guys are keen, just go Ee Chong Loong and you will find all the European fabrics which are likely to be cheaper than his nonsense.
It is accessible bro. There's even a stupid shill selling then on carousell. As an added bonus he'll get you to make too tight 20 pocket cargo pants as well.

He's saying that because he's dumb and ignorant and reading your post will jave taught him something new. The fabric merchants aren't something that he can find google reviews on so why would you expect him to know any better?
 

BelongYJ

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VBC Perennials are ok for daily wear and starters. Can move up the "hierarchy" as you go along..

Otherwise can always try out wool blends (can go into the washing machine) for a start to get a feel of the cut and fit.
May I ask what is the starting price for Kay Jen?
 

BelongYJ

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Anyone has try the LG “Styler” ? Is it functional well? Recently found the dry clean shop keep increasing price, thinking buy this one and reduce send for dry clean
 

paladin

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Pay a visit to Yong Seng then.
Yong Seng tailors full canvassed Scabal suit? I repeat, full canvassed suit. Can buy fabrics from Scabal from Yong Seng? I know can buy Scabal fabrics from CYC and Sakal.

How much for the full canvassed workmanship, since you tailor before?

Btw, Ee Long Chong is warehouse, not agent. European fabrics are sold through agents.

Otherwise those who want to find out can go Ee Long Chong to check their prices and compare with mine. The ignorant ones accuse and make the most noise.

And Darth makes daft comments where he doesn't even seek new knowledge from Google and think no need to know information from the articles from internet, just listen to him can already.
 
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paladin

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Anyone has try the LG “Styler” ? Is it functional well? Recently found the dry clean shop keep increasing price, thinking buy this one and reduce send for dry clean
Ask Darth, Darth will tell you not dry clean, cannot use. Steam also water. Jackets, even cotton ones, can only be dry cleaned. Ask him whether he even know such LG Styler exist and what it is for.
 
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darthsid11111

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Anyone has try the LG “Styler” ? Is it functional well? Recently found the dry clean shop keep increasing price, thinking buy this one and reduce send for dry clean
A dry cleaner will press shape into your trousers and jackets. Shaping is especially important for jackets. Excessive steam will help with wrinkles but the canvassing and lapels will go out of shape.

The LG styler may be useful for shirts and casual trousers but should be used sparingly. Excessive steam will cause the fusing (glue) on your shits to fail. If your shits have no fusing this will not be an issue.

If you'd like you can read https://putthison.com/beware-of-steamers-a-garment-steamer-like-the-one/ on why the LG styler isn't a good idea. Don't worry it's not a lousy source like a google review or wahsoshit blog.

As always it is amusing watching the village idiot @paladin suffer from verbal diarrhoea coupled with mild embolism from the sheer toxicity of his idiocy.

May I ask what is the starting price for Kay Jen?
He used to make bespoke mixed wool trousers at around $200 when he was starting out. Based on the known pricing of tailors in his tier I would imagine his entry point is somewhere near $300 now for trousers.

Or ask @paladin . He'll fail to Google the answer for you because he's an idiot and has no friends.
 
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Clinomania

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Yong Seng tailors full canvassed Scabal suit? I repeat, full canvassed suit. Can buy fabrics from Scabal from Yong Seng? I know can buy Scabal fabrics from CYC and Sakal.

How much for the full canvassed workmanship, since you tailor before?

Btw, Ee Long Chong is warehouse, not agent. European fabrics are sold through agents.

Otherwise those who want to find out can go Ee Long Chong to check their prices and compare with mine. The ignorant ones accuse and make the most noise.

And Darth makes daft comments where he doesn't even seek new knowledge from Google and think no need to know information from the articles from internet, just listen to him can already.
Oh wow so you are saying that Sakal is selling fabrics on their end? Wow. So sick. I never heard of tailors selling fabrics on the side. So hard up? First time hearing tailors selling fabric. Gosh, better let the distributors know that they are doing this. Even the factories don't sell fabrics directly. What's with your hard on with canvassed suits? There are plenty of cutters here with the capacity to take commissions. Of course, the make is probably outsourced elsewhere but rather visit a cutter who is able to draft a pattern than visit Suckal which only takes measurements. European fabrics are easily accessible even online, Harrison Burley, JJ Textiles, to name a few (the former which is probably your source of fabrics).

You obviously don't know anything about the history of ECL or their business model then. What are you on about? I visit ECL regularly and the prices are cheaper than yours.
 

Clinomania

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He used to make bespoke mixed wool trousers at around $200 when he was starting out. Based on the known pricing of tailors in his tier I would imagine his entry point is somewhere near $300 now for trousers.

Or ask @paladin . He'll fail to Google the answer for you because he's an idiot and has no friends.

A dry cleaner will press shape into your trousers and jackets. Shaping is especially important for jackets. Excessive steam will help with wrinkles but the canvassing and lapels will go out of shape.

The LG styler may be useful for shirts and casual trousers but should be used sparingly. Excessive steam will cause the fusing (glue) on your shits to fail. If your shits have no fusing this will not be an issue.

As always it is amusing watching the village idiot @paladin suffer from verbal diarrhea coupled with mild embolism from the sheer toxicity of his idiocy.
Can't believe cotton jackets are recommended to be washed here. Using cotton canvas? LMAO. Obviously he has not met the makers. Sanforised? LOL. Even sanforised fabrics, threads used can shrink. Any marginal shrinkage can have the potential to ruin a jacket.
 
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