The Suiting Thread (Pictures and Queries)

All in a Day

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With the right tailors, that should be easy.
Afterall, our limbs do not grow much beyond a certain age.

I guess so if u start ur wardrobe from a clean slate. The size of ur arms etc may also affect the outcome? eg tighter arm holes may 'pull' the shirt sleeves upwards..
 

boysdontcryy

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Agree with Turban that our limbs don't grow by much past a certain age, and most tailors sort of adjust the shirt sleeves to hit a specific point on the hand, with the suit sleeve terminating at another pre-fixed point. Of course there are minor fluctations here and there. But not impossible to standardise.

A lot of people are unaware that high armholes doesn't necessarily mean good. It should be high enough to allow flexibility, yet not too high such that it cuts into one's armpits.

The armhole should also be shaped correctly to account for how our arms hang. Some people's arms hang forward, and if the armhole doesn't match, and it cut backwards, it can be grossly uncomfortable (though a newbie might not have a basis of comparison, and think it's normal).
 

boysdontcryy

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The classic fit and length of both coat and shirt sleeves:

correct-shirt-cuff-above-sleeve.jpg
 

All in a Day

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The classic fit and length of both coat and shirt sleeves:

correct-shirt-cuff-above-sleeve.jpg

Sorry to still be on this topic. The fit length looks good but for the shirt sleeve, would it appear of different length with vs without the coat on (espec barrel cuff unlike french cuff which is more "stabilised" at the wrist, for lack of better description)?
 

boysdontcryy

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Sorry to still be on this topic. The fit length looks good but for the shirt sleeve, would it appear of different length with vs without the coat on (espec barrel cuff unlike french cuff which is more "stabilised" at the wrist, for lack of better description)?

I understand what you mean. When you bespeak a shirt with a french cuff, the cuff isn't as snug as it is on a buttoned barrel cuff. Though, a tailor can adjust either cuff types to fit similarly, with a little more space for french cuffs. In fact, I had a shirt made up in Italy that utilises what is called a conical cuff (see picture below). The tapering of the cuff ensures that it's firmly anchored on the wrist and there's minimal movement.

Satriano-cinque-shirts-3.jpeg


The answer to your qn is that the cuffs should fit the same, and terminate at similar points, whether the coat is on or off. Though if your shirt is meant to be more trendy, and fashionable, you could always go with it fractionally shorter.

Shirts I wear with coats tend to be slightly more comfortable fitting, lighter-weight, and pricier.

I have another range of shirts, that I use a cheaper tailor for, that are slimmer (and so less long-lasting since you can't wear them if you put on too much weight). I also use cheaper fabrics for these. These, I wear without a coat. I find a slimmer cut on shirts, if I don't wear a coat, to look better.
 

josephkjc

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Haha, chaps, I don't exactly have a paunch! I do, however, puff my tummy out during fittings so that the coat isn't cut too slim, and will give me space to indulge in good food!

But, you guys are right that a good coat should help you disguise a tummy!

Yes, I was shocked myself. But the tailor is a good friend of a good friend and my friend persuaded him to ramp up the process. Takes about 2 weeks for delivery, and that's still decently quick if you ask me, considering the handwork involved!

Fabrics are light! ~9 oz. Brown is in linen.

Good idea on the puffing out of tummy :D
Show us the photos when its done up.

Btw I PMed you perviously on the tailor you used for your suits but I didn't get a reply. Can share info on the tailor?
 

JThinking

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I'm kinda impress with 1:1.618 milanese button on the jacket lapel. Has anyone done a suit or shirt with them? Care to share thank you.

 

boysdontcryy

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I'm kinda impress with 1:1.618 milanese button on the jacket lapel. Has anyone done a suit or shirt with them? Care to share thank you.


Stunning stuff. Not many tailors in Singapore have the skills to do these, though there are a handful that do, at a premium of course.

That said, I prioritise fit over handwork. I go to a tailor first if they can cut a coat that fits me perfectly, and then such magnificent handwork, if it's doable, is a bonus :)

Josephkjc - replied via PM.
 

JamesRodriguez

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Hi all. I'm really interested to make a suit but seems like it cost too much.

What do you guys think of Zara's suit?

/blue-suit-c358052p1849501 found on Zara Singapore's website. BLUE SUIT - Suits - MAN

Something like the one in the link. Sorry not enough post to post pictures..
 

All in a Day

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Hi all. I'm really interested to make a suit but seems like it cost too much.

What do you guys think of Zara's suit?

/blue-suit-c358052p1849501 found on Zara Singapore's website. BLUE SUIT - Suits - MAN

Something like the one in the link. Sorry not enough post to post pictures..

Paging for gx vs arctuates.. Hehe

Anyway seriously, fit is paramount for suits (or any form of clothing for tat matter) n if u r 'blessed' enough to fit OTR suit well, why not?

Depends on ur age too IMHO. If u r young man (say 25 n below?) still fit n slim n no budget, its fine to go for zara 1st. Ur social circle is also not likely to critique or turn their noses on zara.

Venture into good tailoring if u got budget and if u r confident u will maintain your shape for at least medium term.
 

JamesRodriguez

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Paging for gx vs arctuates.. Hehe

Anyway seriously, fit is paramount for suits (or any form of clothing for tat matter) n if u r 'blessed' enough to fit OTR suit well, why not?

Depends on ur age too IMHO. If u r young man (say 25 n below?) still fit n slim n no budget, its fine to go for zara 1st. Ur social circle is also not likely to critique or turn their noses on zara.

Venture into good tailoring if u got budget and if u r confident u will maintain your shape for at least medium term.

that's true also. however, for the one i pointed out, am i able to wear it for more casual occasions as well?
 

All in a Day

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that's true also. however, for the one i pointed out, am i able to wear it for more casual occasions as well?

http://www.zara.com/sg/en/man/suits/blue-suit-c358052p1849501.html

This one? Def looks more casual than formal suit.. To me.. But we prob diff age group anyway
 

arctuates

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Eh why leh. If it fits, then go for it la, hahaha.

The jacket looks horribly short and the pants way too short/tight though.

To go the way of RTW, one must experiment with various brands and fits. For instance, I've found that LBM 1911 OTR fits me pretty well, with only minor alterations required.
 

All in a Day

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Eh why leh. If it fits, then go for it la, hahaha.

The jacket looks horribly short and the pants way too short/tight though.

To go the way of RTW, one must experiment with various brands and fits. For instance, I've found that LBM 1911 OTR fits me pretty well, with only minor alterations required.

Agree on yr observations abt the fit of the zara suit mentioned. Its a fashion suit for sure but whatever that works for him.

What's LBM 1911?

Edit: googled for answer. Gota travel overseas to try :( u have a V torso so it works for u then not likely for me haha
 
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analog.man

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Blue linen jacket with shirting fabric as lining.

Note to self: using shirting fabric feels tighter...need to make allowance for that.

 

JamesRodriguez

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Eh why leh. If it fits, then go for it la, hahaha.

The jacket looks horribly short and the pants way too short/tight though.

To go the way of RTW, one must experiment with various brands and fits. For instance, I've found that LBM 1911 OTR fits me pretty well, with only minor alterations required.

what should be the correct length of the jacket though? and suits comes in skinny or slim fit. are these the more popular ones these days?
 
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