Where to tailor clothes =D - Part 2

[darthsid11111]

I would like to think so but I would rather let a 3rd party confirm it.

Don't wanna say all my pants look like this then share and become laughing stock!

Now? No fitting at all, same measurements I just try upon collection. There's only been tiny adjustments over the years, things like: looser around the waist, belt fasteners instead of belt loop, coin pocket on the right, slightly shorter in length etc etc...

I find that I must wear the item a few times before I can pinpoint on what to improve, I'm not good enough to simply stare at the mirror and pick out what needs to be changed.

The things a third party observes are really quite eye-opening. I guess it's because most people don't spend a lot of time preening in front of a mirror, and don't really notice flaws (if any).

Look forward to your pics!

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[oeuvre]

If you have the time, wear both pants from Sze Sze and Kay-Jen. Take pics of both pants - front and back and side. Should give you some conclusions from this exercise. And probably tell you where the value is.

Yes darth, if it's not too much trouble, would you post photos of your Kay-Jen pants vs Sze Sze pants in good lighting? I remembered you made a pair with Kay-Jen and you've mentioned Mr Ong mistook it for his.

I'll be curious to see how similar they are because I have the same forward leaning posture and big calves like you, and Kay-Jen new prices are beyond my budget for future commissions with him. I have a pair from Kay-Jen (most comfortable yet), and Matt's cutting did alleviate most of the problems I've had with other pants made elsewhere.

I am thinking of making a pair at Sze Sze. I understand it wouldn't be a fair comparison at their price points, but it would be helpful to have a photo reference of how well they can compensate for a forward lean as compared to Kay-Jen.

 

[darthsid11111]

Yes darth, if it's not too much trouble, would you post photos of your Kay-Jen pants vs Sze Sze pants in good lighting? I remembered you made a pair with Kay-Jen and you've mentioned Mr Ong mistook it for his.

I'll be curious to see how similar they are because I have the same forward leaning posture and big calves like you, and Kay-Jen new prices are beyond my budget for future commissions with him. I have a pair from Kay-Jen (most comfortable yet), and Matt's cutting did alleviate most of the problems I've had with other pants made elsewhere.

I am thinking of making a pair at Sze Sze. I understand it wouldn't be a fair comparison at their price points, but it would be helpful to have a photo reference of how well they can compensate for a forward lean as compared to Kay-Jen.

Can't help you there man. Lighting is pretty poor in my house and I don't have properly lit full length mirrors.

I do have to say that with Mr Ong typically there aren't any fittings as with Kay Jen. But my pants always fit as I like based on feel. Although upon scrutiny they don't fit visually as well as I had imagined. Also, I think a lot of what Mr Ong does is by rook of eye. Tbh I don't think he would ve particular about compensating for a forward lean as well. It seems like his focus is primarily on comfort of the user. He doesn't make you stand in front of a mirror and scrutinise posture etc. So you might have to raise such issues with him to make him take notice.

I know I will be bringing the photo as circled by jonleek the next time I head over to Sze Sze to make a pair of trousers.

My pants with Kay-Jen are usually a more tricky proposition. Multiple fittings and adjustments required. =s

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[darthsid11111]

Bro arcfire nails it! The pants look like army No. 4 bottom with gutters!

Bro darkness, u cannot just make the hem slimmer without adjusting the whole pants such that it is a straight line down from hip to hem. Min size of the hem is to be the same as the calf (eg I have a 15" calve, thus my hem min is 15", such that it is >15" at calf area).

And if u over slim the calve, please make sure u don't squart (aka bluebird).

If cannot slim down the top part, I think the pants will look nicer if u make the hem wider such it is a straight line, and then make the pants longer so that the circumference sits completely onto your shoes.

Looks like the hem circumference might be too big. It gives the look like you're wearing jumpers with an elastic hem. The hem looks inproportionately smaller than the rest of the pants. I think that's what makes it look weird.

Jonleek I think you might have solved this mystery! My Sze Sze pants measure 8" across at the hem and 9 and 1/4" across at the calves. Comparatively my pair from Kay Jen has less agressive tapering 7 and 3/4" and 8 and 1/4" respectively.

Also for Oeuvre, I think the smallness of the pant cuff is exacerbated by my forward lean. Because the rest of the fabric from calves up is tugging at the fabric whereas the cuff remains the same.. Thus making a small-ish cuff look even smaller.

Seems like I really need to show Mr Ong those photos with your illustrations and request for a straight cut/minimal tapering from calf downwards!

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[darthsid11111]

Well, there are no pictures of you wearing Kay-Jen's pants. It is difficult to conclude that Kay-Jen's pants fit you any better or worse than Sze Sze's pants, despite you noting the differences in measurements.

By the way, for the sake of argument, I do not think the above cut by Kay-Jen is going to fit everyone out there. If you are bottom-heavy and on the short side, you may end up looking like having 2 turnip-like legs.

That's true. I could probably never fit into those pants pictured above. I have way more shapely butt and calves than the gentleman who is posing in the photo above.

But the aggressive tapering does fit into jonleeks theory of having similar dimensiona for calve and opening. Measurements of the Kay-Jen pair seem to support the theory too =s

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[jonleelk]

That's true. I could probably never fit into those pants pictured above. I have way more shapely butt and calves than the gentleman who is posing in the photo above.

But the aggressive tapering does fit into jonleeks theory of having similar dimensiona for calve and opening. Measurements of the Kay-Jen pair seem to support the theory too =s

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Bro, when I said measure your calf, I meant measure your actual calf of your leg at the fattest part, not the calf area of your pants.

Your pants helm to be the same circumference as your actual calf, and your pants calf area will be slightly bigger than your actual calf. Not my theory, they are my tailor's recommendation.

Measuring my own pants, helm is 7.25" across (actual circumference will be 15", same as my actual calf) calf area 7.75" across (actual circumference will be 16"). Similar slope of tapering to your KJ pants.

If u like the 9.25" across the calf area of your Sze Sze pants, using the same tapering slope, your helm will be 8.75" across, resulting in 18" circumference. I won't recommend no break at that helm.

For reference, my full break pants has a 17.5" helm circumference. So I will recommend u try shortest half break.

 

[feralslash]

For this kind of pants, how should it be hemmed? Let it sit on top of the shoe? Full break, so can fold up if needed?

 

[arcfire]

For this kind of pants, how should it be hemmed? Let it sit on top of the shoe? Full break, so can fold up if needed?

Sorry, distracted by the buldge...

Preferences... It's all possible.

 

[fabiaN__]

Bro, when I said measure your calf, I meant measure your actual calf of your leg at the fattest part, not the calf area of your pants.

Your pants helm to be the same circumference as your actual calf, and your pants calf area will be slightly bigger than your actual calf. Not my theory, they are my tailor's recommendation.

Measuring my own pants, helm is 7.25" across (actual circumference will be 15", same as my actual calf) calf area 7.75" across (actual circumference will be 16"). Similar slope of tapering to your KJ pants.

If u like the 9.25" across the calf area of your Sze Sze pants, using the same tapering slope, your helm will be 8.75" across, resulting in 18" circumference. I won't recommend no break at that helm.

For reference, my full break pants has a 17.5" helm circumference. So I will recommend u try shortest half break.

Yeah, agree to the above. Daniel also suggested the same i.e. calf circumference = hem opening, or maybe hem opening can be slightly larger for a little more comfort.

My suit trousers aren't that slim though, he can pull it up and let it "drop" by itself... yet the proportion looks ok IMO!

 

[K|muRa^84]

it's probably down to darth's preferences i think

recall some dude posting pics of his 2 piece from sze sze and his pants fit pretty well

 

[darthsid11111]

Bro, when I said measure your calf, I meant measure your actual calf of your leg at the fattest part, not the calf area of your pants.

Your pants helm to be the same circumference as your actual calf, and your pants calf area will be slightly bigger than your actual calf. Not my theory, they are my tailor's recommendation.

Measuring my own pants, helm is 7.25" across (actual circumference will be 15", same as my actual calf) calf area 7.75" across (actual circumference will be 16"). Similar slope of tapering to your KJ pants.

If u like the 9.25" across the calf area of your Sze Sze pants, using the same tapering slope, your helm will be 8.75" across, resulting in 18" circumference. I won't recommend no break at that helm.

For reference, my full break pants has a 17.5" helm circumference. So I will recommend u try shortest half break.

Haha now I'm just confused. I measured my calf and it is 16" thereabouts. Meaning the hem, which when measured across is 8" should have roughly 16" circumference?

So are the hem proportions ok and will the remedy by less aggressive tapering or longer pants length (half break)?

it's probably down to darth's preferences i think

recall some dude posting pics of his 2 piece from sze sze and his pants fit pretty well

I agree. I would love to blame this on my wonky proportions+posture.

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[arcfire]

Haha now I'm just confused. I measured my calf and it is 16" thereabouts. Meaning the hem, which when measured across is 8" should have roughly 16" circumference?

So are the hem proportions ok and will the remedy by less aggressive tapering or longer pants length (half break)?


I agree. I would love to blame this on my wonky proportions+posture.

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Making it longer should make it look better.

 

[jonleelk]

Haha now I'm just confused. I measured my calf and it is 16" thereabouts. Meaning the hem, which when measured across is 8" should have roughly 16" circumference?

So are the hem proportions ok and will the remedy by less aggressive tapering or longer pants length (half break)?

Sent from the exploded Death Star using GAGT

Your actual calf is 16", but the pants from Sze Sze calf area is almost 19" (8.25" * 2 plus some extra due to folding) so loose?

KJ cuts it at 17", only 1" more than your actual calf. This is similar to my pants where calf area is 1" more than my actual calf.

For your existing pants, the tapering is still over aggressive. But agree with arcfire that if u eliminate the cuff and straighten it, it will look better (not floating).

 

[darthsid11111]

Your actual calf is 16", but the pants from Sze Sze calf area is almost 19" (8.25" * 2 plus some extra due to folding) so loose?

KJ cuts it at 17", only 1" more than your actual calf. This is similar to my pants where calf area is 1" more than my actual calf.

For your existing pants, the tapering is still over aggressive. But agree with arcfire that if u eliminate the cuff and straighten it, it will look better (not floating).

Seems like the quickest fix is lengthening the pants/wearing them slightly lower. With a 2" cuff, I may yet be able to lengthen the pants without forsaking the cuff.

BTW not sure if this is significant but the Kay-Jen pants were cut slim. Whereas this pair is supposed to be "classic/straight/roomier/whatever".

 

[BallGag]

Sid, check your pm

 

[darthsid11111]

What are the differences between these 2 pair of pants?

Holy sheet. Please share I am really interested in your opinion!

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[stormcontrol]

What are the differences between these 2 pair of pants?

I thought i was the only creepy fella who dug for photos posted nearly half a year ago.

 

[darthsid11111]

I thought i was the only creepy fella who dug for photos posted nearly half a year ago.

Actually, I think of the photos was more than 6 months ago.

 

[iV3RsOn]

Just visited Lusso. Made one shirt from the in house fabric.

Value for money... To me lah

 

[oeuvre]

Just visited Lusso. Made one shirt from the in house fabric.

Value for money... To me lah

I'm keen too, may I know how much did it cost? Thanks!