Air conditioning - Any recommendations please??

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terumo

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Yah. Higher set temp = compressor cuts off/part load faster.
When compressir is running @ low speed, Kwh comsumption will drop.
 

strazbary

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Hi All,

Am been reading the thread upwards til page 143, and couldnt seems to find any information on Hitachi. Anyone know if Hitachi is any good?

I am actually looking for a System 3 and have shortlisted to three brands:

Hitachi
Toshiba
MIT Heavy Industries

Had tried out the coolness at GC showroom but would like to know what the gurus at this thread think about the above brands? Was told Hitachi cool down a room fastest among the brand, true? When compared to Toshiba, Hitachi does feel colder at the showroom but then I realized the temperature on the remote was set to 16C. Does the temperature during the testing matter?

As there will be heavy usage for one of three bedrooms, was told I could go for 2 units x 9,000Btu and 1 unit x 12,000Btu. Am also told the HDB district that I lived, the max allowed was up to 22,000Btu only. Hence, no point getting anything more than 22,000Btu, true?

My existing unit is a Fujiair and had been hving problems with it for ages like the PCB not working and leaking issues for the unit under heavy usage. For the new installation, will there be a need to upgrade the insulation?

I am considering the three brands coz Hitachi is a trusted home appliances brand?, Toshiba's compressor is Japan made and MIT HI seems like a more cost effective alternative than the popular brands like MIT Electric, Panasonic and Daikin.
 

terumo

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I would recommend Daikin, MIT Electric and Panasonic.
Panasonic is cost effective among the 3 brands.
 

derrickgoh

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To bro derrickgoh,

Then u got to replace the motor. Should be $200+...
Dunno how true but the guy who came to clean it said air con that is so old no point repairing if more than $100 'cos at that age, everything will start spoiling one after another so might as well buy new air con.
 

r0_ger

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I am renovating my resale flat. It comes with a daikin non-inverter sys3. age - unknown. The aircon contractor inspected and say that it's still fine to carry on using. I would like to add a new FCU maybe 18k btu to the living room. more cost effective to re-run all the worn out pipes + a new FCU or change the entire unit to a sys 4, inverter/non-inverter? I recon the cost will be doubled for a new system 4?
 

charleneneedshelp!

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Needs Help!

Dear all Gurus,

Seriously need some help with the airconditioning matter here.

Getting a new place, 4 room flat. Looking at Sys 3 + 1.
Not exactly sure about the BTU allocation? How does this work?

I have been reading some replies on this thread. Is it recommended to get the aircons from big shops like Courts, Harvey Norman, Best Denki etc OR the specialized ones mentioned here like Hong Tar, CoolServe, Natural Cool (Buy&Fix)?

Heard that most important is to find a good team to install the aircons else will create many problems afterwards.

And also, I saw some posts on MIT Heavy Industries, MIT Starmex - are they all from Mitsubishi? What's the difference?

Thanks for your help in advance! :)
 

terumo

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If its a 4rm flat.
Usually all 3 bedroom uses 9k but. Living is 18k.
MIT Electric n Mit Hvy Ind are 2 different brands.
MIT Electric Is together with their fridge, electric fans, etc.
MIT hvy ind is brought into Sg by an auth agent.
 
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Luffy Pirate King

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Dear gurus,

Needed some advice.
I will be getting the Panasonic system 3 inverter
CU-3S27MKZ
CS-S9MKZW x 3 (9kbtu each)
for my MBR, and 2 CBR.

Upgraded to Class 0 Nyflex 1/2" insulation and 23 SWG copper pipe.

My dilemma now is tha many of friend have "insisted" that i change my insulation to Armaflex because of its quality comparing with Nyflex.

For long term usage, i heed their advice but was told by the CSO that actually armaflex class 1 1/2" and 23swg copper pipe is sufficient for HDB usage.

So my question is Armaflex class 1 1/2" and 23SWG is consider good enough? Or should i insist on a Class 0 Armaflex and at least a 22swg copper pipe?

TIA.
 

terumo

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If your piping are in trunking non-concealed.
Aramaflex 3/8 class 1 is good enough and G23 too.
 

tingyuan

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so G24 no good? if when u on fcu, is it normal if water flowing to pipe? How condensation form?
 

terumo

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G24 is thinner then G23, chanes of gas leak, condensation is higher.
Water flowing to drainage pipe is normal.
Condensation is like u take a cup of cold water out from the fridge n leave it on e table. Hot and cold air mix together.
 

Luffy Pirate King

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Dear gurus,

Needed some advice.
I will be getting the Panasonic system 3 inverter
CU-3S27MKZ
CS-S9MKZW x 3 (9kbtu each)
for my MBR, and 2 CBR.

Upgraded to Class 0 Nyflex 1/2" insulation and 23 SWG copper pipe.

My dilemma now is tha many of friend have "insisted" that i change my insulation to Armaflex because of its quality comparing with Nyflex.

For long term usage, i heed their advice but was told by the CSO that actually armaflex class 1 1/2" and 23swg copper pipe is sufficient for HDB usage.

So my question is Armaflex class 1 1/2" and 23SWG is consider good enough? Or should i insist on a Class 0 Armaflex and at least a 22swg copper pipe?

TIA.

If your piping are in trunking non-concealed.
Aramaflex 3/8 class 1 is good enough and G23 too.

Bro, your reply is directed at my enquiry?
Anyway, mine will be concealed trunking.
So Armaflex class 1 1/2" and G23 sufficient i assume?
 

bravobb

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Just like to share my experience.

Bought Panasonic system 3 non-inverter from Gaincity almost 2 years liao.. bundled with 3 years half-yearly servicing.. so far so good. Price was around $2,100 that time. Total BTU is 18,000. Energy consumption is 2 ticks.

Recently installed a new Samsung system 1 inverter unit for living room from Courts. Costs me $1,700 with 5yrs extended warranty. BTU is 20,000. Can cool my 5-rm living room to 25 degree in less than an hour. Energy consumption is 4 ticks.

So in summary, total damage for 4 Aircon units and 2 compressor is close to 4K.

Have fun sourcing around !
 
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