Air conditioning - Any recommendations please??

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terumo

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They are not managed by Daikin.
They are authorised dealers of Daikin.


Is it advisable to use the daikin pro shop for purchasing and installation? Have to decide on aircon soon since my renovations are staring.

Any difference between the different pro shops? Are they manage by daikin directly or are they sub cons?
 

hikarirayzone

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Am having the aircon installation this friday.

So i need to look out for these few things:
1. Insist on flared joint for joining pipes when there are requirements for piping more than 15m.
2. Separate insulation for piping away from the FCUs.

Anything else that i need to look out for?
 

rubber33

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Am having the aircon installation this friday.

So i need to look out for these few things:
1. Insist on flared joint for joining pipes when there are requirements for piping more than 15m.
2. Separate insulation for piping away from the FCUs.

Anything else that i need to look out for?

The height of the FCU?

I seen lot of renovation pictures, all FCU mounted to the highest point which is not recommended.
 
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Hi,

In my opinion, your living room area after the removal of the study room is estimated to have an area of 50m2. Taking your ceiling height as 2.8m and temperature difference of 10 degree C, your required Btu is less than 18k Btu. (slightly above 10k Btu).

The MXY-3G28VA is a system 3 condenser, meaning it allows 3 FCUs to be connected to it. And it provides up to a normal capacity of 6kW or 20k Btu. and a max of 8.9kW or 30k Btu. In this case, as you are not installing 3 FCUs (you only need 2 FCUs), you are not using the condenser as it is designed for. However, you are paying for the extra features.

Furthermore, this 20k Btu normal capacity (max. 30k Btu) condenser is above your living room cooling requirement.

In my opinion, it would be good enough to have MXY-2G20VA with normal capacity of 4.8kW or 16k Btu (max 6.3kW or 21.5k Btu) and 2 MSXY-FJ13VE with a 3.5kW each or 11.9k Btu. This will allow you to adjust different coolness for different section when required.

Having a MXY-3G28VA and MSXY-FJ10VE + MSXY-FJ18VE does not allow you to do this.

It will be good if you can place a barrier between the living room (or dinning room) and the kitchen to avoid heat from the kitchen heating up your living room and higher running cost.

If you are still concern about the cooling capacity and capacity of the condenser and FCU selection, you may wish to visit Mitsubishi Electric technical support at their Alexander Road office for advise.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.

if i use 2 x ge24va fcu + 4a38va compressor the max cooling capacity each fcu is 4.40 kW, total cooling capacity 9.20 kW 31k btu, do you know why it doesn't provide 38k btu ?
the catalogue doesn't specifiy max kW when using 1 ge24va either.

so it looks i would need 4 x ge10va to get 11.20 kW?


how about the 5 ticks daikin mks90qvmg 43k btu, mitsubishi 5g48va 46k btu do they have the same issue?

if its via 5 fcu then i have to move a lot of stuff to install 5 fcu in the living room, and divide 5 fcu between the 3 bedrooms.
 

hikarirayzone

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The height of the FCU?

I seen lot of renovation pictures, all FCU mounted to the highest point which is not recommended.
Hi,

Any recommendations on how high the FCU should be? My current FCU is just below the cornices...

Thanks.
 

dachee

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Hi,

Any recommendations on how high the FCU should be? My current FCU is just below the cornices...

Thanks.

In my opinion, 8ft from the floor is the preferred height. Too height would mean that you are cooling hot air (near the ceiling) that is not needed to help to comfort you.

Cooling unhelpful volume of air is not cost effective.

However, if you have a long room and high capacity FCU, than it make sense to have it higher as you need the air to reach the furthest end of the room. Such selection of a single high capacity for a large room would not be as cost effective as having 2 lower capacity FCUs appropriately placed (8ft from the floor) in the large room to provide immediate cooling to the desired areas.

Hope that the above are helpful.
 
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hikarirayzone

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In my opinion, 8ft from the floor is the preferred height. Too height would mean that you are cooling hot air (near the ceiling) that is not needed to help to comfort you.

Cooling unhelpful volume of air is not cost effective.

However, if you have a long room and high capacity FCU, than it make sense to have it higher as you need the air to reach the furthest end of the room. Such selection of a single high capacity for a large room would not be as cost effective as having 2 lower capacity FCUs appropriately placed (8ft from the floor) in the large room to provide immediate cooling to the desired areas.

Hope that the above are helpful.
Hi Dachee,

Thank you for the advice. Will highlight this when they come for installation.
 

dachee

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Hi Dachee,

Thank you for the advice. Will highlight this when they come for installation.

Hi,

Other points to look out are:

1.Check for system leak:
1.1 Ensure that they vacuum the system for each FCU for 15 mins,

1.2 Then hold the vacuum for 1 to 2 mins to check for leak (the pointer in the manifold gauge should not drop) when the vacuum pump is turned off. if the pointer shifted from original position, it is a sign that there is leaking in the piping somewhere. The source of the leak must be identified and rectified and above steps and 1 and 2 repeated. You may wish to take a photo when the pump is just turned off for comparison.

1.3 When there is no sign of leaking, the gas in the condenser will be released into the system (piping) and the service valve caps tighten. Provide the workers with some soap solution to be place over the service valves to check for leaking.

Do this for each FCU.

2. Check that one continuous new pipe is used for your system unless it is more than 15m. Check this before the workers insert the pipes into the insulation.

3. Check that all bends are either done by pipe bender or pipe bending spring. If you suspect that this is not done, cut the across the insulation at one end of the bend and pull it back to expose the copper pipe at the bend to check whether the pipe is kinked or not. Kinked pipe is not acceptable. It is good to inform the seller that kinked pipe is not acceptable when they start work and that in the even of a kinked pipe, the whole length of pipe need to be change. The cut insulation can then be either glue back with special glue like Superlon Insultaion Adhesive ( you can do an internet search, about $6/1L tin) and tape over with duct tape, this is a preferred method or duct tape the insulation back. Duct tape is used by the contractor but not all contractors carry the insulation adhesive.

4. If you are buying the insulation adhesive, it is good to ask the contractor to glue all the insulation tubing ends to ends instead of just duct tape them together which the contractor normally do.

5. When the FCU is installed, it is normally installed at a slight tilt (slant) to allow for water drainage. But this tilt must not be obvious to the eyes. If the slant is too much, the worker need to rectify this.

6. Another area to check is when all are done, check that the cooling fin in each FCU are not damaged.

7. Ensure that the condenser is mounted to the floor.

8. When all is done, run the system/s with all FCUs and look out for abnomal sound or blinking at the FCUs. There is no harm asking the contractors any questions that you have.

9. Check that all outdoor wall opening are sealed.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.
 
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hikarirayzone

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Hi,

Other points to look out are:

1.Check for system leak:
1.1 Ensure that they vacuum the system for each FCU for 15 mins,

1.2 Then hold the vacuum for 1 to 2 mins to check for leak (the pointer in the manifold gauge should not drop) when the vacuum pump is turned off. if the pointer shifted from original position, it is a sign that there is leaking in the piping somewhere. The source of the leak must be identified and rectified and above steps and 1 and 2 repeated. You may wish to take a photo when the pump is just turned off for comparison.

1.3 When there is no sign of leaking, the gas in the condenser will be released into the system (piping) and the service valve caps tighten. Provide the workers with some soap solution to be place over the service valves to check for leaking.

Do this for each FCU.

2. Check that one continuous new pipe is used for your system unless it is more than 15m. Check this before the workers insert the pipes into the insulation.

3. Check that all bends are either done by pipe bender or pipe bending spring. If you suspect that this is not done, cut the across the insulation at one end of the bend and pull it back to expose the copper pipe at the bend to check whether the pipe is kinked or not. Kinked pipe is not acceptable. It is good to inform the seller that kinked pipe is not acceptable when they start work and that in the even of a kinked pipe, the whole length of pipe need to be change. The cut insulation can then be either glue back with special glue like Superlon Insultaion Adhesive ( you can do an internet search, about $6/1L tin) and tape over with duct tape, this is a preferred method or duct tape the insulation back. Duct tape is used by the contractor but not all contractors carry the insulation adhesive.

4. If you are buying the insulation adhesive, it is good to ask the contractor to glue all the insulation tubing ends to ends instead of just duct tape them together which the contractor normally do.

5. When the FCU is installed, it is normally installed at a slight tilt (slant) to allow for water drainage. But this tilt must not be obvious to the eyes. If the slant is too much, the worker need to rectify this.

6. Another area to check is when all are done, check that the cooling fin in each FCU are not damaged.

7. Ensure that the condenser is mounted to the floor.

8. When all is done, run the system/s with all FCUs and look out for abnomal sound or blinking at the FCUs. There is no harm asking the contractors any questions that you have.

9. Check that all outdoor wall opening are sealed.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.
Hi Dachee,

Noted on this.

I noted that that point 7: Ensure that the condenser is mounted on the floor. My block is an old block so i am installing a stainless steel bracket. Anything to look out for, for these types of installation of condenser on bracket??

Thank you.
 

Quantom

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... with special glue like Superlon Insultaion Adhesive ( you can do an internet search, about $6/1L tin)...

Google doesn't seem to turn up any search results. Is there a local shop that stocks Superlon insulation adhesive?
 

xiaomitao

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My aircon broke down after 15years.

I would like to replace it.
Should I also replace the trunking pipes as well?
 

dachee

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My aircon broke down after 15years.

I would like to replace it.
Should I also replace the trunking pipes as well?

Yes, Good to replace the piping.

Likely that you would need to change the trucking with the new piping.
 

qwerty_hippo

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Anyone knows where to get aircon filters, odor and anti bacterial cleansing strips for Mitsubishi HI?
 

kw

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Hi, I would like to install 3 aircon for my bedrooms with size of 173,165 and 149 sq ft. What is the recommended BTU? Thanks!
 

terumo

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Hi,

173sq ft can get 9k / 12k.
The other 2 rooms 9k is sufficient.
I presume ceiling height is ~10 ft.


Hi, I would like to install 3 aircon for my bedrooms with size of 173,165 and 149 sq ft. What is the recommended BTU? Thanks!
 

dachee

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Hi, I would like to install 3 aircon for my bedrooms with size of 173,165 and 149 sq ft. What is the recommended BTU? Thanks!

Hi,

You can use the following link to check the Btu/hr required for a specific room size in ft or m. and in the different in degree C which you would like the room to cool down to (for example, room initial temperature is 30 degree C and you wish to cool the room to 20 degree C, then the difference is 10 degree C (30-20 =10).

You can select the insulation condition as normal unless you have window/s or wall that is facing the afternoon sun, or have kitchen as part of the room.

http://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html

From the calculator, all your rooms are below the 9k Btu requirement, even if you run it at 20 degree C. Normally, room temperature is set at 25 degree C, which is already cold and with proper placement of the FCU (fan coil unit), the cold air from the FCU can be directed to the selected area providing effective cooling even at room temperature setting of 26 - 27 degree C (some even have temperature setting of 28 degree C). With proper placement of the FCU, it does not need to have the whole room cool down before you feel comfortable.

In additon, with the inverter now available in most air conditioner, the compressor is able to provide continuous cooling at different capacity (coolness), thus avoiding the very cold and warm cycle encountered with the old, on/off-compressor air conditioner when you are blown directly from the FCU.

The above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.
 
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d3n

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anyone uses "Cold Engine" to install your aircon? received an attractive quote below:

Mitsubishi starmex system 3 - $2850 (after discount $2700!)

MXY3A28/MSYGE10 x 3

Daikin inverter system 3 - $2950 (after discount $2800!)

3MKS71FSG/FTKS25DVM x 3

** Note: Above price is for 1 storey HDB/BTO

Stardard piping materials without upgrade
1. 16mm pvc drainage pipe with 7/8 inch thickness armaflex/K-Flex insulation.
2. 23g copper pipe with 3/8 inch thickness armaflex/K-Flex insulation.
3. Keystone/Sigma 3 core 40 & 70 wire.


Warranty
1. Compressor 5 year (Dealer warranty)
2. Other parts 1 year for (Dealer warranty)
3. Workmanship 1 year (Installer warranty)



New Year Promo 2017 Package

** $150 discount for System 3 /$200 discount for System 4
** Free Site Survey
** Free 1 trip installation
** Free upgrade to G22 copper pipe (Thickness and Hardness gas piping)

** Free upgrade to half inch Armaflex/K-Flex Insulation for copper pipe.

** Free dimantle and disposal old set aircon
** One time ac-hoc general servicing with special rate for no units of install within 1 year- $20 per unit.
** One time ac-hoc chemical overhaul with special rate for no units of install within 2 year- 30% discount

per unit (Price different base on BTU)
** No hidden cost (Nett Price)
** Promotion while stock last.
** $100 deposit payment upon job confirmation.$900 payment upon piping installation. Rest of payment is

COD upon completion of job (Cash or cheque payment acceptable)



Optional:

1. Additional top up $150 for 15amp power power point

2. Additional top up $200 for 20amp isolator

3. Additional top up $150 for stainless steel bracke (If no existing bracket or existing bracket too small and not suit for new condenser)

4. Additional top up $40 for angle bar for existing bracket too big

5. Additional top up $50 for 2nd trip.
 

dachee

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anyone uses "Cold Engine" to install your aircon? received an attractive quote below:

Hi,

Price is one factor to consider, however, the quality of workmanship is an even more important factor. It is therefore important to buy from a dealer who accept the appropriate key check points in the installation process of the whole system.

Poor installation practices can damage a new product and the consequent can only be realized many a few years later.

Above are my opinion and hope that they are helpful.
 
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