cordless driver drill

[charlieangel123]

If you like to DIY light projects, I'd get a cordless 12V system that is handy and has battery packs interchangeable with Dremel rotary tools (with a bit of modding)

For the occasional DIY wall drilling, I'd get (or borrow) a corded SDS hammer (they're cheap even for Bosch)

I'll say this. 18V system cordless drill drivers - especially the pro grade ones with a lot of metal parts - are fscking heavy. These are used if you need to do heavy work like drilling 10mm steel plate or driving bolts into hardwood.

I have a really powerful Hilti for that. I'd never use it for "light" DIY.

i only use for wall , wood drilling and screw driver applications.

18V or 12V corded is fine? still need hammer function or just drill/driver functions are enough?

 

[DragonFire]

why'? battery expensive or low lifetime always need to change or not enough power after a while

For normal DIY, battery life is ok. When you do heavy duty, battery life can be a serious concern. My cordless angle grinder with 8000mah pack will run only 15-30m depending on what I am doing with it. I break it out only when the corded grinder is difficult or awkward to use - e.g. down in a flooded hole where it is dangerous to run a power line, or where power is just not available.

 

[PiKa]

why'? battery expensive or low lifetime always need to change or not enough power after a while

All of the above.
I see those corded, can use 10 20 years no issue..
See you use case.. if need cordless then get cordless ba

 

[Phumba]

GSB is drill with Hammer function. GSR is drill without this function. IIRC.

I am pretty confident to say that for the same platform, there are more options with Makita in terms of tools, compared to Bosch. That said, I started out with Bosch, and kind of wished I went with something else.

Regarding the hammer drill function. The models u listed can only do so much. I once used my GSB 18 li2 to drill thru reinforced concrete (RC) column, and my god... can do... but it takes a good 5 mins a hole, hand pain.

if your really going to be drilling things like RC, check the specs for "impact energy". The big assed bosch ones can do about 3joules something something units.

These smaller 18V platforms, do not even have this rating listed on their specs.

That said, on lifetime, I had to change my motor on my bosch drill this year, RM 100 from Shopee in Malaysia. This was after 10 years or so of usage for everything in the hse, when moving in. Inclusive of some cutting disc cutting and sanding. I have never used Makita, but have often wondered if it would have been a better choice.
I do know a lot of the bosch blue items are final assembled in Msia. Especially the economic range. So... maybe that would help on the price point in the long run, and parts availability.

I hope I have helped with many pointers in many directions.

See the rating for Impact Energy Bosch PT Malaysia

And the "smaller ones" which dont have the Impact Energy Rating. You can try downloading the spec sheets, I did many years ago, and it was difficult to find.

 

[DragonFire]

i only use for wall , wood drilling and screw driver applications.

18V or 12V corded is fine? still need hammer function or just drill/driver functions are enough?

You must have hammer for wall. Problem is chuck hammers are quite bad. The drill bits themselves aren't designed for proper masonry/concrete work.

I used a 28mm SDS bit on my small little Bosch SDS hammer to drill a hole through rebar reinforced 150mm wall. No chuck hammer could have possibly pulled that off.

 

[PiKa]

GSB is drill with Hammer function. GSR is drill without this function. IIRC.

I am pretty confident to say that for the same platform, there are more options with Makita in terms of tools, compared to Bosch. That said, I started out with Bosch, and kind of wished I went with something else.

Regarding the hammer drill function. The models u listed can only do so much. I once used my GSB 18 li2 to drill thru reinforced concrete (RC) column, and my god... can do... but it takes a good 5 mins a hole, hand pain.

if your really going to be drilling things like RC, check the specs for "impact energy". The big assed bosch ones can do about 3joules something something units.

These smaller 18V platforms, do not even have this rating listed on their specs.

That said, on lifetime, I had to change my motor on my bosch drill this year, RM 100 from Shopee in Malaysia. This was after 10 years or so of usage for everything in the hse, when moving in. Inclusive of some cutting disc cutting and sanding. I have never used Makita, but have often wondered if it would have been a better choice.
I do know a lot of the bosch blue items are final assembled in Msia. Especially the economic range. So... maybe that would help on the price point in the long run, and parts availability.

I hope I have helped with many pointers in many directions.

I try Bosch spare parts from shopee Malaysia sellers too!
Their prices is cannot fight

 

[charlieangel123]

You must have hammer for wall. Problem is chuck hammers are quite bad. The drill bits themselves aren't designed for proper masonry/concrete work.

I used a 28mm SDS bit on my small little Bosch SDS hammer to drill a hole through rebar reinforced 150mm wall. No chuck hammer could have possibly pulled that off.

hmm ok got it. thanks

 

[deathan9el]

any other brands for that matter, main thing is to know how to use it

* mine's a Black & Decker btw

not black & darker ahh ..

 

[charlieangel123]

GSB is drill with Hammer function. GSR is drill without this function. IIRC.

I am pretty confident to say that for the same platform, there are more options with Makita in terms of tools, compared to Bosch. That said, I started out with Bosch, and kind of wished I went with something else.

Regarding the hammer drill function. The models u listed can only do so much. I once used my GSB 18 li2 to drill thru reinforced concrete (RC) column, and my god... can do... but it takes a good 5 mins a hole, hand pain.

if your really going to be drilling things like RC, check the specs for "impact energy". The big assed bosch ones can do about 3joules something something units.

These smaller 18V platforms, do not even have this rating listed on their specs.

That said, on lifetime, I had to change my motor on my bosch drill this year, RM 100 from Shopee in Malaysia. This was after 10 years or so of usage for everything in the hse, when moving in. Inclusive of some cutting disc cutting and sanding. I have never used Makita, but have often wondered if it would have been a better choice.
I do know a lot of the bosch blue items are final assembled in Msia. Especially the economic range. So... maybe that would help on the price point in the long run, and parts availability.

I hope I have helped with many pointers in many directions.

thanks

 

[DragonFire]

To clarify, this is what a SDS hammer connector looks like. These drills are 100% intended only for masonry and concrete. That is why these should just be borrowed if you don't do a lot of concrete work.

The bit is designed to slide back and forth, "hammering" at the material.

Edit: haha what a 28mm SDS bit looks like. Had to run electrical sensor cables and air PVC air lines for my pond. This big bugger had to come out to drill connections between the RC chamber walls, It cost more than the Bosch SDS hammer I put it in.

 

[Kum Jit Pow]

I would advise a wired Toshiba for home. super heavy duty and can last for decades. no point getting cordless as you don't use it often enough. lithium battery will degenerate very fast if go flat, so you need to charge it even if you don't use. how many times do you use it in a year?


Read HWZ Forum Rules!

 

[wongkc]

Makita for sure... my workshop all Makita tools... they are built to last...

Bosch Professional also can consider...

Black and Decker is dun ever think about it... lousy products but they do better marketing and easier to buy off the shelf...

 

[Phumba]

To clarify, this is what a SDS hammer connector looks like. These drills are 100% intended only for masonry and concrete. That is why these should just be borrowed if you don't do a lot of concrete work.

The bit is designed to slide back and forth, "hammering" at the material.

Edit: haha what a 28mm SDS bit looks like. Had to run electrical sensor cables and air PVC air lines for my pond. This big bugger had to come out to drill connections between the RC chamber walls, It cost more than the Bosch SDS hammer I put it in.

Agreed on this point. Has much significance for those who are unfamiliar.

 

[Phumba]

i only use for wall , wood drilling and screw driver applications.

18V or 12V corded is fine? still need hammer function or just drill/driver functions are enough?

If its purely for home use, and NOT drilling walls, I would safely say a 12V from any brand is sufficient. This includes some drilling HOME DIY (Screws,) and even drilling wood furniture projects.

 

[enimen]

There are so many drills. Impact driver. Hammer drill. Etc. is there a 1 driver or drill that can do everything? From tighten screws until drill holes into concrete walls

 

[DragonFire]

There are so many drills. Impact driver. Hammer drill. Etc. is there a 1 driver or drill that can do everything? From tighten screws until drill holes into concrete walls

GSB series Bosch in 18V. You won't be comfortable doing holes in concrete, but it will work with time and patience and a high quality drill bit. Think minutes of drilling per hole instead of seconds. Also if you hit rebar, just pull out and drill somewhere else.

Electric drill driver is a surefire recipe to damage fastener heads or worse, strip threads. If you have a driver with torque adjustment, and you really know your driver and the work you are using it for, you can wing it a bit. If you don't, tighten manually.

18V is big and clunky for fine work btw. But since you want a drill that does everything, you gotta go a bit bigger.

 

[freshvibes]

You must have hammer for wall. Problem is chuck hammers are quite bad. The drill bits themselves aren't designed for proper masonry/concrete work.

I used a 28mm SDS bit on my small little Bosch SDS hammer to drill a hole through rebar reinforced 150mm wall. No chuck hammer could have possibly pulled that off.

Any recommendations for those that can drill into concrete wall/ceiling?

 

[DragonFire]

Any recommendations for those that can drill into concrete wall/ceiling?

You mean a separate SDS hammer? I just have a GBH220 SDS hammer. It is intended more for concrete than other materials. It is pure drill. No driving. Hammer can be turned off for wood and metal. Problem is that if you want to use normal chuck bits, you will need an SDS-chuck adapter which is not included.

 

[RedEyesFan]

Makita.
They got make a portable coffee machine usable with their batteries.

 

[freshvibes]

You mean a separate SDS hammer? I just have a GBH220 SDS hammer. It is intended more for concrete than other materials. It is pure drill. No driving. Hammer can be turned off for wood and metal. Problem is that if you want to use normal chuck bits, you will need an SDS-chuck adapter which is not included.

I'm not sure what a SDS hammer is

Looking for something that is able to drill through concrete for replacing those ceiling lights and compatible for screwing (screwdriver) etc.