EJB
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Just a general guide from my POV having gone through several DSLR purchases and hope to help those genuinely interested in purchasing one.
TOC
===
1) Which camera?
2) What lenses?
3) What else do I need?
1) Which Camera?
Before you ask which camera is good, consider first getting a DSLR as investing as a whole system. Once you embark on one system, changing requires you to change your entire gear accordingly.
i) The DSLR System
Many think that in a DSLR purchase, the important part is the camera body itself. This in fact is a myth and oft mistaken for the bulk of the purchase. The purchase should be regarded as purchasing a system. Moons to come, your lenses are very likely the only ones that stays through the years with you as compared to a DSLR body.
You would likely to have gone through a change in camera body every 2~4 years or so depending on your photography needs or urge to upgrade. Your lenses, the collection of it, will stay with you. The bulk of the cost now becomes visible as the lenses. The camera's cost is pretty much negligible now
So coming back to the question, which camera to go for? Decide on the system first. A good idea to start is with the leaders of the market eg: Canon or Nikon. Both have good systems, each with flaws and each with pros. You will take forever trying to deliberate between the two. This is where you need to test the camera bodies physically to see if you like the feel. Button layouts, grip handling, weight (which adds on the stability with long lens).
Having said that it's time to come face to face with the pros and cons of the camera. No camera body is perfect. Everybody will focus on the flaws and gripe about it. However, I do urge you to reconsider focus on it's strengths instead and work it to your best of skill you have. Griping about flaws will not get you any good shots. Flaws are there to be understood as limitations and what the camera is not capable for. Flaws are not there to be complained and say the camera sucks. There will be another model that will fulfill your needs, but your budget might not meet it.
Know the strengths and weakness of the camera body will aid you in getting your shots and know what not to shoot. Just like self-assessment during appraisal time, knowing your weakness so that you can work over it.
ii) Sensor size & Crop Factor
Each DSLR has different sensor sizes, due to the expensive manufacturing of wafer chips, the larger the chip for the DSLR's sensor, the more expensive it gets. So major and minor players comes out with a smaller chip to keep costs low and makes DSLRs more affordable.
A standard film frame is 36mm x 24mm. Most DSLRs have chips that are smaller than this size aka Crop Factor.
List as of 5 Feb 2016
Canon:
EOS 1DX2 - Full-Frame, aka FF, sensor size is the same as the film frame,
EOS 5D MK3, 6D - Full Frame.
EOS 1100D/750D/760D/70D/7D MK2 - 1.6 Crop factor. The sensor size 60% smaller than film frame.
Nikon:
D610/D750/D810/D5 - FF. Sensor size is same as film.
All Other Nikon DSLRs are at 1.5x Crop factor. Sensor size is 50% smaller than film frame.
However, an average DSLR's sensor is still way much larger than a digital camera. Optics used are larger and better than that designed in digital cameras. So, if you want to compare a digital camera's output to a DSLR, don't bother. A DSLR would have a better output than any digital camera, even with just a simple kit lens.
How does a crop factor affects your shots
As a whole, having the crop factor means your angle of view becomes smaller, so essentially your image is narrower.
The focal length remains as dictated by the lenses, but the angle of view changes.
On a 1.3 crop factor, eg: a 24-70 glass would give you an angle of view equivalent to 31.2-91mm.
On a 1.5x crop factor eg: a 24-70 glass would give you an angle of view equivalent to 36-105mm.
On a 1.6x crop factor eg: a 24-70 glass would give you an angle of view equivalent to 38.4-112mm.
On a 2x crop factor eg: a 24-70 glass would give you an angle of view equivalent to 48-140mm.
Note: The angle of view changed, your focal length remains the same, the lens did not 'zoom' extra distances.
iii) What is mount?
Mount refers to the portion where you fix on the lenses to the body, that part is known as the mount. Different camera brands uses different mount.
Nikon - F mount
Canon - EF mount
iv) I hate heavy lenses/bodies
Before you judge the weight, think of how the weight can assist you in getting a good shot. Ample weight is present due to the elements, electronics used. Each glass and a body's design is to aid the user in holding the setup firmly and be able to shoot comfortably.
Most digital cameras are small, easier to shake when shooting using hands. DSLRs have a sturdy weight whereby if a tripod is not needed, helps to stabilise the hand-holding. The weight is there for a reason. Do not attempt to brush off the weight as something not important. It can seriously help you hold better and be more sturdy.
2) What lenses?
Now this is a very hard to answer question, what lenses do you need/want? Most of the time, I would recommend the user(s) to just keep to their kit lenses and when they hit into situations whereby their current gear cannot suit their needs, they will know what they need to purchase.
The guideline here is very vague and serves only to demonstrate the terms used and the likely applications. However, remember that a good photographer is one that uses the lenses to capture his pictures, not using the situation to determine his lenses!
My recommendation for choice of lenses, will be in the first paragraph of this section.
i) Fisheyes
Like the name suggest, these are a special range of lenses used to create that rounded image effect, they cover essentially a very wide angle with special effects of curvature at the extreme sides.
Canon has the 8-14 f/4L Fisheye
Nikon has the 10.5DX f/2.8G FE for their 1.5x DSLRs, 16mm f/2.8D FE for FF
ii) Wide-Angles
These lenses have a larger angle of view, meaning they are able to capture more in the horizontal area.
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
Photography Trivia: In photography terms, anything less than 50mm is considered wide angle lenses, but personally I prefer to term wide as anything below 36mm. Up to individual preference.
Eg:
Canon: 16-35 MK2 f/2.8L, 17-40 f/4L, 10-18 (for Crop bodies).
Nikon 12-24 (for DX DSLRs only), 14-24, 17-35, 18-35G
iii) Mid-Zooms
These lenses are generally, covering from less wide to slightly further distances, normally not exceeding 120mm thereabouts (as a general guide).
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
Eg:
Canon: 24-70, 24-105, 28-135
Nikon: 24-70, 24-120, 28-105
iv) Tele-zooms
These lenses are usually power packed for longer coverage, normally used to cover distances not normally covered by foot easily. Most would use for events whereby they can't get near to the stage as well.
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
Eg:
Canon: 100-300, 70-200
Nikon: 80-400, 70-200
v) Macro
As the name implies, these lenses are used to capture subjects up close, normally used in areas of flora/fauna shots.
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
vi) Primes
Primes are a type of glasses, where it doesn't zoom, it only focuses because the distance it covers is fixed, the elements do not zoom.
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
Eg:
Canon: 28..85, 200, 300, ... 1200
Nikon: 24..85, 200, 300, ...600
vii) Zoom Times
A lot of buyers are confused when it comes to 'the number of zoom times'. For digital cameras there's 3x, 4x, 5x etc. In the realm of D/SLRs this number is in significant. The furthest range in zoom is not calculated by these 'times'.
Here's why:
The calculation for zoom times
Zoom times = (longest distance / shortest distance)
Consider the following lenses:
18-200mm
Zoom times = 200 / 18 = 11.1x
500mm
Zoom times = 500 / 500 = 1x
70-200
Zoom times = 200 / 70 = 2.86x
17-35
Zoom times= 35/17 = 2.0x
Look at the 500mm, 500mm covers up to 500mm (literally), but it's only a 1x zoom. This does not mean that it's shorter than 18-200 where it's 11.1x. Am I right? Anybody knows 500mm is further than 200mm.
Look at the 70-200, it's a 2.86x vs 11.1x of the 18-200. But again, it still covers up to 200mm for both lenses.
The 17-35 although covers 2x, but doesn't even reach the 500mm as compared to the 500mm lens.
Thus, it's useless to compare the number of 'zoom times' for lenses in DSLR. You gauge the distance coverage and zoom power by the zoom range of each individual lenses itself.
TOC
===
1) Which camera?
- i) The DSLR system
- ii) Sensor size & Crop Factor
- iii) What is mount?
- iv) I hate heavy bodies/lenses
2) What lenses?
- i) Fish eyes
- ii) Wide-Angles
- iii) Mid-Zooms
- iv) Tele-zooms
- v) Macro
- vi) Primes
- vii) Zoom Times
- viii) Fast Lenses
3) What else do I need?
- i) Cleaning Accessories
- ii) Filters
- iii) Memory Storage
- iv) Bags
- v) Dry Cabinet
- vi) Tripods/Ballheads
1) Which Camera?
Before you ask which camera is good, consider first getting a DSLR as investing as a whole system. Once you embark on one system, changing requires you to change your entire gear accordingly.
i) The DSLR System
Many think that in a DSLR purchase, the important part is the camera body itself. This in fact is a myth and oft mistaken for the bulk of the purchase. The purchase should be regarded as purchasing a system. Moons to come, your lenses are very likely the only ones that stays through the years with you as compared to a DSLR body.
You would likely to have gone through a change in camera body every 2~4 years or so depending on your photography needs or urge to upgrade. Your lenses, the collection of it, will stay with you. The bulk of the cost now becomes visible as the lenses. The camera's cost is pretty much negligible now
So coming back to the question, which camera to go for? Decide on the system first. A good idea to start is with the leaders of the market eg: Canon or Nikon. Both have good systems, each with flaws and each with pros. You will take forever trying to deliberate between the two. This is where you need to test the camera bodies physically to see if you like the feel. Button layouts, grip handling, weight (which adds on the stability with long lens).
Having said that it's time to come face to face with the pros and cons of the camera. No camera body is perfect. Everybody will focus on the flaws and gripe about it. However, I do urge you to reconsider focus on it's strengths instead and work it to your best of skill you have. Griping about flaws will not get you any good shots. Flaws are there to be understood as limitations and what the camera is not capable for. Flaws are not there to be complained and say the camera sucks. There will be another model that will fulfill your needs, but your budget might not meet it.
Know the strengths and weakness of the camera body will aid you in getting your shots and know what not to shoot. Just like self-assessment during appraisal time, knowing your weakness so that you can work over it.
ii) Sensor size & Crop Factor
Each DSLR has different sensor sizes, due to the expensive manufacturing of wafer chips, the larger the chip for the DSLR's sensor, the more expensive it gets. So major and minor players comes out with a smaller chip to keep costs low and makes DSLRs more affordable.
A standard film frame is 36mm x 24mm. Most DSLRs have chips that are smaller than this size aka Crop Factor.
List as of 5 Feb 2016
Canon:
EOS 1DX2 - Full-Frame, aka FF, sensor size is the same as the film frame,
EOS 5D MK3, 6D - Full Frame.
EOS 1100D/750D/760D/70D/7D MK2 - 1.6 Crop factor. The sensor size 60% smaller than film frame.
Nikon:
D610/D750/D810/D5 - FF. Sensor size is same as film.
All Other Nikon DSLRs are at 1.5x Crop factor. Sensor size is 50% smaller than film frame.
However, an average DSLR's sensor is still way much larger than a digital camera. Optics used are larger and better than that designed in digital cameras. So, if you want to compare a digital camera's output to a DSLR, don't bother. A DSLR would have a better output than any digital camera, even with just a simple kit lens.
How does a crop factor affects your shots
As a whole, having the crop factor means your angle of view becomes smaller, so essentially your image is narrower.
The focal length remains as dictated by the lenses, but the angle of view changes.
On a 1.3 crop factor, eg: a 24-70 glass would give you an angle of view equivalent to 31.2-91mm.
On a 1.5x crop factor eg: a 24-70 glass would give you an angle of view equivalent to 36-105mm.
On a 1.6x crop factor eg: a 24-70 glass would give you an angle of view equivalent to 38.4-112mm.
On a 2x crop factor eg: a 24-70 glass would give you an angle of view equivalent to 48-140mm.
Note: The angle of view changed, your focal length remains the same, the lens did not 'zoom' extra distances.
iii) What is mount?
Mount refers to the portion where you fix on the lenses to the body, that part is known as the mount. Different camera brands uses different mount.
Nikon - F mount
Canon - EF mount
iv) I hate heavy lenses/bodies
Before you judge the weight, think of how the weight can assist you in getting a good shot. Ample weight is present due to the elements, electronics used. Each glass and a body's design is to aid the user in holding the setup firmly and be able to shoot comfortably.
Most digital cameras are small, easier to shake when shooting using hands. DSLRs have a sturdy weight whereby if a tripod is not needed, helps to stabilise the hand-holding. The weight is there for a reason. Do not attempt to brush off the weight as something not important. It can seriously help you hold better and be more sturdy.
2) What lenses?
Now this is a very hard to answer question, what lenses do you need/want? Most of the time, I would recommend the user(s) to just keep to their kit lenses and when they hit into situations whereby their current gear cannot suit their needs, they will know what they need to purchase.
The guideline here is very vague and serves only to demonstrate the terms used and the likely applications. However, remember that a good photographer is one that uses the lenses to capture his pictures, not using the situation to determine his lenses!
My recommendation for choice of lenses, will be in the first paragraph of this section.
i) Fisheyes
Like the name suggest, these are a special range of lenses used to create that rounded image effect, they cover essentially a very wide angle with special effects of curvature at the extreme sides.
Canon has the 8-14 f/4L Fisheye
Nikon has the 10.5DX f/2.8G FE for their 1.5x DSLRs, 16mm f/2.8D FE for FF
ii) Wide-Angles
These lenses have a larger angle of view, meaning they are able to capture more in the horizontal area.
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
- Landscapes
- Wedding table group shots
Photography Trivia: In photography terms, anything less than 50mm is considered wide angle lenses, but personally I prefer to term wide as anything below 36mm. Up to individual preference.
Eg:
Canon: 16-35 MK2 f/2.8L, 17-40 f/4L, 10-18 (for Crop bodies).
Nikon 12-24 (for DX DSLRs only), 14-24, 17-35, 18-35G
iii) Mid-Zooms
These lenses are generally, covering from less wide to slightly further distances, normally not exceeding 120mm thereabouts (as a general guide).
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
- Street-shooting
- Event shots
- Casual shooting
- Portraits
Eg:
Canon: 24-70, 24-105, 28-135
Nikon: 24-70, 24-120, 28-105
iv) Tele-zooms
These lenses are usually power packed for longer coverage, normally used to cover distances not normally covered by foot easily. Most would use for events whereby they can't get near to the stage as well.
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
- Street-shooting
- Event shots
- Portraits
- Simple nature shots
Eg:
Canon: 100-300, 70-200
Nikon: 80-400, 70-200
v) Macro
As the name implies, these lenses are used to capture subjects up close, normally used in areas of flora/fauna shots.
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
- Flowers
- Insects
- Jewellery
- Products
vi) Primes
Primes are a type of glasses, where it doesn't zoom, it only focuses because the distance it covers is fixed, the elements do not zoom.
General uses (as a whole, take with a pinch of salt):
- Portraits
- Sports
- Low-Light situations
- Birding/Safari
Eg:
Canon: 28..85, 200, 300, ... 1200
Nikon: 24..85, 200, 300, ...600
vii) Zoom Times
A lot of buyers are confused when it comes to 'the number of zoom times'. For digital cameras there's 3x, 4x, 5x etc. In the realm of D/SLRs this number is in significant. The furthest range in zoom is not calculated by these 'times'.
Here's why:
The calculation for zoom times
Zoom times = (longest distance / shortest distance)
Consider the following lenses:
18-200mm
Zoom times = 200 / 18 = 11.1x
500mm
Zoom times = 500 / 500 = 1x
70-200
Zoom times = 200 / 70 = 2.86x
17-35
Zoom times= 35/17 = 2.0x
Look at the 500mm, 500mm covers up to 500mm (literally), but it's only a 1x zoom. This does not mean that it's shorter than 18-200 where it's 11.1x. Am I right? Anybody knows 500mm is further than 200mm.
Look at the 70-200, it's a 2.86x vs 11.1x of the 18-200. But again, it still covers up to 200mm for both lenses.
The 17-35 although covers 2x, but doesn't even reach the 500mm as compared to the 500mm lens.
Thus, it's useless to compare the number of 'zoom times' for lenses in DSLR. You gauge the distance coverage and zoom power by the zoom range of each individual lenses itself.
Last edited:
