Lancool K-series Users Group

tErOn

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ahahaha..i gt my cousin who drove and another fren to help..
@Illusionist_85 gratz on your hoots..looking forward to your pics..meantime..post your specs!! and the damage!!
 
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AMD Phenom II X6 1055T(95w) - $299
Asus M4A87TD/USB3 - $196
2x2GB Kingston DDR3 - $126
MSI GTX460 Hawk 1GB - $373
WD Black 1TB - $152
Pioneer BDR-S05J - $349
Noctua NH-C12P SE14 - $119
Lancool K62 - $169
Scythe KAZE-JYUNI - ??
Arctic Cooling MX-2 - ??

Re-use:
Creative X-Fi Xtreme Music
Seasonic M12-500w
Razer Deathadder(RA3 ver)
Filco Majestouch English Keyboard


anyway feel like changing all the LED casing fans to non LED ver, prefer it to b pure black in the dark:)
 
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Why get c12p? get megahalems or U12P instead? o.o

at 1st thought i would settle for a smaller casing, as VP,PCT, Bell had its K62 OOS, after purchasing all my pc parts at bell i went for further scouting n saw the last box of K62 @ lvl 6:)

Anyway i kinda :s22: as i saw its s12 fans costing 32 bucks
 

lcheowl

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AMD Phenom II X6 1055T(95w) - $299
Asus M4A87TD/USB3 - $196
2x2GB Kingston DDR3 - $126
MSI GTX460 Hawk 1GB - $373
WD Black 1TB - $152
Pioneer BDR-S05J - $349
Noctua NH-C12P SE14 - $119
Lancool K62 - $169
Scythe KAZE-JYUNI - ??
Arctic Cooling MX-2 - ??

Re-use:
Creative X-Fi Xtreme Music
Seasonic M12-500w
Razer Deathadder(RA3 ver)
Filco Majestouch English Keyboard


anyway feel like changing all the LED casing fans to non LED ver, prefer it to b pure black in the dark:)

you should have order from fortran, I got it at $155 from him.

Yr hawk good price sia. $5 cheaper than me. lol
 
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btw did u all put fan filters on the top part of the casing where the 2 fans r? If any small particles drop in.....:s22:
 

lcheowl

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btw did u all put fan filters on the top part of the casing where the 2 fans r? If any small particles drop in.....:s22:

nope, will consider to get the filter and blow inward to create positive air pressure. according to some review, positive air pressure make yr internal less dust and the gpu heat can exhaut better.
 

tErOn

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nope, will consider to get the filter and blow inward to create positive air pressure. according to some review, positive air pressure make yr internal less dust and the gpu heat can exhaut better.

wow..less dust i heard of..bt exhaust gpu heat..dats a first man..afaik positive air pressure has a greater chance to create pockets of heat..
 

lcheowl

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according to an article I read, most gpu cooler are deign in such a way that the hot air is to blow out at the connector end. a negative air pressure will suck back the warm air that is suppose to exhaust by the gpu fan.
 

tErOn

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according to an article I read, most gpu cooler are deign in such a way that the hot air is to blow out at the connector end. a negative air pressure will suck back the warm air that is suppose to exhaust by the gpu fan.

hmm..dat makes sense man..bt also gotta prevent getting warm air pockets trapped in the midst of doing dat..bt this case abit hard to get positive air pressure leh..

reverse the top fans to become intake causes cpu temp to rise..i've already added another front intake at the dvd drive bay..unless we add a much much stronger fan..

or for my case..
make the cpu heatsink's push pull config a south to north orientation and change the top exhaust closer to the front panel to be intake..so the farther back top exhaust removes the cpu heat and the nearer to front one contributes to the positive air pressure..bt i dunno if dat would trap heat..
 
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Hi anyway to improve the cabling? the other side of the casing is quite full of cables as well:(

howtoz.jpg



final product:

hootc.jpg
 

Kzhan00b

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Haha.. no offence.. well thats... terrible... XD

But no problem, after 2-3 times redo-ing the cable you shouldnt see anymore cables le... :D

Ok.. try to flip the hdd the other way round, so the Sata connect connects to the HDD through the back and not the front of the casing... (Front will be the side with the window... )

Dont use the wire clipdown thing on the casing unless really necessary..

Uhh... it looks soo... messy so i dont really know what to say... so... uhhh.. route everything from the back, make use of the cable management holes... yeah :x
 

Kzhan00b

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I would say finally, 4.0Ghz below 60 degrees is no longer a dream :D:D

P1080510.jpg


P1080511.jpg

Routing everything from the back of the tray :D

And Repel89 used some foam thingy to block the part where the wires from the PSU comes out.. so... that explains why you dont see anything there lol
 
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Haha.. no offence.. well thats... terrible... XD

But no problem, after 2-3 times redo-ing the cable you shouldnt see anymore cables le... :D

Ok.. try to flip the hdd the other way round, so the Sata connect connects to the HDD through the back and not the front of the casing... (Front will be the side with the window... )

Dont use the wire clipdown thing on the casing unless really necessary..

Uhh... it looks soo... messy so i dont really know what to say... so... uhhh.. route everything from the back, make use of the cable management holes... yeah :x

hmm mayb i try again tomorrow:(

i route the 2 fans n one power atx cable thru a small hole
how1v.jpg


the PCIE power, SATA power for BD writer n power cable for the 3 fans
how2.jpg
 

thegamer1907

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are u using modular PSU? if not, u can hide some cables right behind the PSU that side got a small space can hide a cable or two. the rest can cable tie to the back of the casing. u see my previous post in front i managed to do all cables hiden with a non modular psu.
also reverse your hdd tray so you can hide the SATA cables

for the older post
http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/showpost.php?p=46747744&postcount=6

for my rig after channging to modular + other changes:
http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/showpost.php?p=48629931&postcount=962
 
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