Men Office Wear Thread (2nd Thread)

daniel_lss

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How To Ensure A Proper Fit

How To Ensure A Proper Fit

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Sometimes you slip on that new shirt and it just doesn't feel right. But what is it? Is it the sleeve length? The collar? The way it looks with a blazer? Well, the confusion ends today.

1. button-down shirts
Sleeves & cuffs
Dress shirts tend to shrink after a few washings, so before buying and getting a shirt tailored, make sure the sleeve is slightly longer in order to counteract any eventual shrinkage.

- So what's the right length when it comes to shirt sleeves? They should cover your wrist and reach the beginning of your thumbs.
- As well, your cuffs should be tight enough to prevent them from slipping down your wrist.
- If you opt to leave your button-down shirt untucked, it should hang just above your pants zipper (at back pocket level).
- When wearing a jacket and extending your arms, the sleeves should land between a half-inch and one inch past the jacket. Anything longer is cause for tailoring or buying a smaller shirt.

Collars & shirts
If the shirt's seams meet at the shoulder, you know it fits quite well.

- Your forefinger should be able to fit in between your collar and your neck when the shirt is buttoned to the top.
- The collar's tips and outer edge should be covered by your blazer or suit jacket's lapels. To ensure that this happens, always fit your dress shirts and button-downs before fitting your jackets and blazers.

2. blazers
The blazer or jacket's sleeve should rest at your thumb knuckle when your arm is extended, and the blazer or jacket should cover your backside.

- The blazer/jacket's collar should leave about a half- inch of your dress shirt's collar visible.
- If you plan on wearing your sports jacket frequently over sweaters, bring a thin or regular knit sweater with you when trying on or tailoring the blazer or suit jacket.

3. pants
Trousers
Determining whether you have the right fit when it comes to slacks is fairly simple. Try them on without shoes; they should just touch the floor. With shoes on, the back part of your pants should barely touch the ground (one rule of thumb is that pants should break at about 1/3 of the way down the shoe). And if you need one more sign that your slacks might not fit well, remember that your socks should not show when you walk.

- When belting slacks, don't pull too tight, or you risk bunching up the fabric around your midsection. This will make your gut appear larger than it is.
- If you're hemming your pants at the waist, place them below your belly button.
- And of course, remember that slacks -- like shirts -- usually shrink when you wash them. Buy (or have a tailor create) pants just a shade longer than what you actually need.

Jeans
Jeans, like any casual clothes, shouldn't require any sort of tricky tailoring or complex tips to look right. You should, however, be familiar with the basic jean varieties out there, so that you can make a purchase with your body's best fit in mind.

There are three basic jean styles: regular, relaxed and loose.
- Regular fit is as the name implies; traditional and somewhat slim-fitting.
- Relaxed fit features an extra half-inch in the butt.
- Loose fit includes anywhere between one and four inches of additional fabric in the butt and thigh.

Jean leg styles include straight, flare and boot. Flare-cut jeans are wider around the calf, while boot-cut jeans are flared around the ankle.

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4. neckties
The simplest way to ensure a well-fitted necktie is to have a well-fitted shirt to wear it with.

Here are some guidelines to remember:
- Your tie should always hang barely above your belt buckle.
- The size of the tie knot should not lift the tips of your shirt collar.
- The inverted triangle of the tie knot should fit snugly into the triangle created by your buttoned-up shirt collar.

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5. belts
- When it comes to belts, you should buy one size bigger than your pants. A 34" waist means a 36" belt.
- The buckle's notch should fit into the center hole of the belt (usually hole number three; most belts have five holes).
- The tail of the belt should end just past the first loop on your pants.
- The edge of the belt buckle, the row of buttons on your shirt and your fly should all line up vertically.

the proper fit
If you know the signs of a good fit when it comes time to buy or tailor clothes, you can be guaranteed that those garments will both last longer and look better.
 

iwish

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Raoul @ Hitachi Tower (Raffles Place) having sales

3 single ply = $150
2 double ply + 1 single = $180
3 doublt = $200
any 3 combi ties/cuff links = $120 (I think)
shoes/belts on sales also....

*4 ply is consider as 2 ply
** no fitting
*** it is crowded, messy

but with some luck and hardwork...u may get some bargain..good luck!!! :)
 

Teaken

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guys...any recommendation on where to alter shirt sleeve length?
cheeap and gd... :)
 

xspace

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evets said:
You pay for what you get wat....the fabric materials, the tailor workmanship...
Despite an average of $220 per piece from victor york, ppl still are willing to pay for the bespoke services and exquistivity...

Gone are the Raoul and Mark and Spencer days as off the rack shirt looks so off on me now....but they have more fabric choices as compared to some tailors i know of...

Currently I have tailored about 5 work shirts from Rossi at Millenia Walk. NOt too bad in term of pricing and the cutting of the shirt.. the only con is that they have limited materials for me to choose from...darn... :s22:

Hi evets,

Got pictures of them? :s8:
 

snip3r

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iwish said:
hmm..the shirts quite standard design i think...but they like keep increasing the number of ply..from single to 2 to 4...what next? 8 ply? hahaha :D
ur opinion 1/2 & 4. Which one is best for our warm temperature and NOT too thin?
 

iwish

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snip3r said:
ur opinion 1/2 & 4. Which one is best for our warm temperature and NOT too thin?
actuall depends on your working environment ..

but 2 plys is ok..i think the increase in ply not only in thickness but also the shirt quality..can feel it is different. I just got a 4ply during the sale...havent worn it yet..;p
 

alienated

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hey guys, i have a problem here, graduation ceremony is around the corner and i am having trouble with what to wear. i am 162/55. short and skinny :s22: i am thinking of whether to wear a blazer a not. i don't think i can carry the blazer well with my build. is it advisable for me to get a blazer?

i also have problems with those shirts sold in shops as they are too 'big' for me especially at the sleeve areas. i will be going to a tailor this time. what kind of dressing can make me look taller and fatter?
 

Ysatis

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alienated said:
hey guys, i have a problem here, graduation ceremony is around the corner and i am having trouble with what to wear. i am 162/55. short and skinny :s22: i am thinking of whether to wear a blazer a not. i don't think i can carry the blazer well with my build. is it advisable for me to get a blazer?

i also have problems with those shirts sold in shops as they are too 'big' for me especially at the sleeve areas. i will be going to a tailor this time. what kind of dressing can make me look taller and fatter?

you sure anot 162/55
 

alienated

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thanks for the replies. i am more clearer on what are the things to take note. stuff on short guys are hard to find. after reading those articles, i have some questions to clear in my head.

1) What is the difference between a double-breasted and a single-breasted suit?
With a double-breasted suit the jacket will overlap closing with two buttons as opposed to a single-breasted suit, which closes with one set of buttons. Please note that either choice of suit can have a variation of buttons.

this is the answer i've found on net. does it means 2 closing buttons = double breasted, 1 closing button = single breasted.

2)What is the difference between a blazer and a suit?

I searched for pictures and articles and found them to be awfully similar, whats the difference between them or are they the same?


Anyway, the GSS is starting today, anyone who got lobangs for men's wear can post here :)
 

xspace

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erin50 said:
I'm looking to make a full suit. I'll appreciate for some recommendations and prices to go along. Thanks!

Massimo Dutti. Maybe you can check this shop out at M. Square. Not very sure on the prices, I saw their review on Magazines. Looks very good ~ :)

Website - http://www.massimodutti.com

;)
 

iwish

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snip3r said:
hugo boss now having 40% promotion worth it for a suit..
the 40% just for suits is it?

was there on sat, saw the shirts on 30%...if 40% I may consider..hehe
 

swatchie

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Just got 2 suits from Hugo Boss. Very worth! After 40% discount about 800+ each. :)
 
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