[Official] Home Automation Thread

Alphas

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am thinking of that as well.. but pulling the neutral wire to all switches is very expensive.
There are zigbee smart switches that have optional neutral wire, so it can either be wired with or without neutral and no capacitor is needed.
https://www.lazada.sg/products/moes...gle-home-2mqtt-i2097332352-s11686007411.html?https://shopee.sg/Moes-White-Switch...8?sp_atk=a0df7d93-0a32-43fb-9c19-380d80e4e1d8
I have not tested it, but it should work as stated clearly.
 

ho_kuku

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That's the cost if you don't mind having electrical trunkings running all over the place. If not, will have to rewire to concealed them and that's expensive.
icic - the non neutral switch is more cost friendly then
most people here have no problems with non neutral switches - so it should be fine.

for me - the neutral wire version gives me a piece of mind as they work exactly like a typical dumb switch with smart features

Another point I see as a plus is that with the neutral version - they are able to create a zigbee mesh network extending the range of your zigbee hub. Else you'll need a repeater.

On another note altogether - I personally had problems with wifi switches in the past - as it really cloak up your network if you have alot of them. I want to keep my wifi less congested and let zigbee or zwave (or Thread/ Matter) to deal with my iot devices. Also wifi devices have higher latency - will personally go with Thread or Matter devices if possible.
 

ZigguratZ

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icic - the non neutral switch is more cost friendly then
most people here have no problems with non neutral switches - so it should be fine.

for me - the neutral wire version gives me a piece of mind as they work exactly like a typical dumb switch with smart features

Another point I see as a plus is that with the neutral version - they are able to create a zigbee mesh network extending the range of your zigbee hub. Else you'll need a repeater.

On another note altogether - I personally had problems with wifi switches in the past - as it really cloak up your network if you have alot of them. I want to keep my wifi less congested and let zigbee or zwave (or Thread/ Matter) to deal with my iot devices. Also wifi devices have higher latency - will personally go with Thread or Matter devices if possible.
Eh I thou without netural the smart switch will also work like the typical dumb switch... No?
 

ho_kuku

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Eh I thou without netural the smart switch will also work like the typical dumb switch... No?
it seems to work like a dumb switch but actually not quite - I am referring to the non neutral switch.
As you might have read - electricity is not really cut off - the switch just lessen the current to a point where your equipment "turns off" - in fact electrical current still flows thru them.

When I say the neutral version function like a typical dumb switch - what I mean is physically cutting off current to the equipment - this is what a dumb switch does - ie cutting off current to your device
 

batniss

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I've seen some with thermostat but unsure on how it would work in HDB context. Is there a need to get a "smart" Aircon?
Yes and no (for Aircon).

No smart, then your whole house even if it is smart will always be missing something
You can however, if your aircon supports IR/RF, get a smart respective hub to toggle the options for you too.

Alternatively, you can use IFFFT but that is another topic. This way your GH can do what you want.
 
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laoahpeh

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Yes and no (for Aircon).

No smart, then your whole house even if it is smart will always be missing something
You can however, if your aircon supports IR/RF, get a smart respective hub to toggle the options for you too.
That's what I thought. Using IR means cannot use those nice smart thermostat. What other Tuya products do you recommend for Singapore usage?
 

landslot

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Hi Guys,

would like to check if anyone is using the Aqara D1 3Gang with neutral.

After the electrician have fix up all my Aqara switches from 1 to 3 gang, i found out that all my 3 gang switches (total 4) are much more warmer to touch.

Those 1&2 gang switch are just as our normal dumb switches does not even feel of any slight warm at all.

Would like to check if that is normal?
 

ho_kuku

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Hi Guys,

would like to check if anyone is using the Aqara D1 3Gang with neutral.

After the electrician have fix up all my Aqara switches from 1 to 3 gang, i found out that all my 3 gang switches (total 4) are much more warmer to touch.

Those 1&2 gang switch are just as our normal dumb switches does not even feel of any slight warm at all.

Would like to check if that is normal?

for me - the 3 gang aqara switch feels warmer too. So far ok. On another note altogether- firmware updates for the switches are always the 1 and 2 gangs. I dun see the 3 gang switches having any firmware update. Not sure why
 

landslot

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for me - the 3 gang aqara switch feels warmer too. So far ok. On another note altogether- firmware updates for the switches are always the 1 and 2 gangs. I dun see the 3 gang switches having any firmware update. Not sure why
I see. As is more warmer than the other 1 & 2 gang switch. Just worry if it will any issue for long term. Don’t want new house to be burn down. Seems like is normal for 3 gang.
 
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Anything that is zigbee need a hub - which zigbee hub do u have now or intending to get?
Yes i have a zigbee hub, but not an Aqara one. Unless any zigbee hub can be an Aqara hub replacement? I was looking at Aqara N100, and i saw a description mentionin "An Aqara Smart Hub is required for smart home integrations"
 

drkcynic

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Hi Guys,

I am using an Orvibo smart hub, which is using zigbee. One of my Orvibo smart switch for my heater went offline, i suspect it is damaged.

Questions are

1) It is hard to find the Orvibo switches, can I change to any other brands which are using the zigbee tech, ie Tuya or something else?
2) How hard is it to DIY and replace the switch (if i use another brand) since it was connected to the heater? Are the wirings complicated to DIY?

TIA.
 

solomon3000

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Hi I'm planning to embark on this home automation journey once I began Reno for my unit. The unit is already fitted with vidabyfermax hub and comes with some of their own smart lighting control, ac control, door lock and camera(built into the hub) etc. Will be pulling neutral to all the necessary places.

The motorized blinds for the whole house is also working on z-wave protocol that is supposed to integrate into the vidabyfermax eco system.

I am planning to replace the vidabyfermax hub, if not, add in another Aeotec Smartthings hub for higher versatility. IR/RF control I'm guessing would be via broadlink RM Pro integrated into ST.

Voice control will be via Google nest and hubs around the house. I'm assuming most scenes and automation will be carried out by ST.

Assuming that I don't want to be tinkering with the DH, what would be the most cost effective solution for smart switches, dimmers, sensors etc. I understand with the condition above, Tuya and Aqara would be out. Anybody here using Lutron Caseta? I've seen some reasonably priced smart switches on MCO that claims to integrate nicely with ST, even though they look like mark up versions of a certain brand.

Another question is what exactly is happening if I have bother the vidabyfermax hub and ST in the house. Ideally all the automation should be in ST, or else potentially there would be conflict between ST and vida hub?

Appreciate some inputs from experienced bros. Thanks.
 

Melsolut

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e2da763c77feb747661198551f8dff365c0f5179_2_500x500.webp

Hi,

I bought Tuya-compatible door sensors and I am able to set up such that an alert will be sent if the door is opened within a set time window (e.g. 11pm - 7am). However if the door was left open earlier (like 10.45pm) and never closed, the alert will not be sent at 11pm as the trigger is a status change (Closed to Open). Does anyone have any advice on how to overcome this? I would like to be able to receive an alert if any door is not closed at 11pm.
 
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