The Watch Thread - Part 3

[yattokame]

Lotus seems to be using engines from everywhere they could source. The Lotus M100 Elan, launched in 1989 used an Isuzu engine, and now their car are using Toyota engine!
What I mean was, it is similar to watchmakers who will just buy movement from whoever is readily available (ETA, Sellita, Soprod).
In-house movement is the only way up for watch manufacturers.

But how many can actually afford to? Engines, platforms.... Can share just share. Even BMW-citroen-peugeot using the same 1.6FI engine now. Cost savings and maximize profits.

 

[iamvintage]

In-house movement is the only way up for watch manufacturers.

Very true. Just like how the new Omega "Moon Watch", Dark Side of the Moon, uses an in-house movement. But same applies for the price if they go for in-house movement, the only way is up

 

[patryn33]

But how many can actually afford to? Engines, platforms.... Can share just share. Even BMW-citroen-peugeot using the same 1.6FI engine now. Cost savings and maximize profits.

Aiyoh profit margin for car isn't big unlike mech watches.
Afford or not depends on ppl pocket.
Engine platform not can share they share, it's a biz thing. Oh this is no automotive thread.

 

[Jwee85]

You can find an ETA2892-A2 in a watch for less than $2K. Similarly, you can find it in a IWC Ingenieur 3239 for ~$7300. There is no exclusivity to where and what brand of watch it is used in. When you cross the $5k mark, there are many other choices with in-house movement to consider.

Ok....so if I buy Swatch...it's considered an in-house movement right? Got prestige and bragging rights? Better buy a few more swatch watches.....just joking.

Since 2005 Swatch is limiting its ETA to many watch manufacturer. So this will indirectly spur many manufacturers to 'make' their own in-house movement from 'modifying' existing design.
By 2018, swatch will reduce its supplied movement by 70% to its competitors.

What's next in 2020, where many brands will claims their own In-house design?

 

[flame2000]

Ok....so if I buy Swatch...it's considered an in-house movement right? Got prestige and bragging rights? Better buy a few more swatch watches.....just joking.

Since 2005 Swatch is limiting its ETA to many watch manufacturer. So this will indirectly spur many manufacturers to 'make' their own in-house movement from 'modifying' existing design.
By 2018, swatch will reduce its supplied movement by 70% to its competitors.

What's next in 2020, where many brands will claims their own In-house design?

It may not push many manufacturers to come out with their own in-hse movement because the cost involved is huge.
It will probably push them towards Sellita, Soprod, Miyota, etc. Even small time manufacturer like Halios is using Seiko 6R15 movement in their watches. These watchmakers will go for whatever movement that is easily available in the market.

 

[ntkng]

I agreed. They may belongs to certain watch groups (LVMH, Richemont, Swatch Group, PPR Group). But their movements exclusivity still stays with the watch brand.

We probably will never see a Zenith movement use in a Tag Heuer.

TH Calibre 36 is an El Primero calibre supplied by Zenith.

 

[dominicwor2]

how do you guys think this poljot looks?

the date window is a sore eye..

 

[billovee]

You can find an ETA2892-A2 in a watch for less than $2K. Similarly, you can find it in a IWC Ingenieur 3239 for ~$7300. There is no exclusivity to where and what brand of watch it is used in. When you cross the $5k mark, there are many other choices with in-house movement to consider.

Do you want to buy a Lexus with an Altis engine?
Similarly, when I buy a Merc, I want it to come with a Merc engine and not some engine sourced from other manufacturers.

It means any tom dick or harry rich guy just create a brand , market well.

Can create a watch to sell to people who emphasis out the outlook than internal part.

Just make the outlook attractive...the rest will be secondary.

Can really make GOOD Money

 

[flame2000]

TH Calibre 36 is an El Primero calibre supplied by Zenith.

Ya, guess I miss out on that one.

 

[Samfreak]

the date window is a sore eye..

Didn't even notice the date window until you mentioned it!

I lke the arabic numerals but to repeat them on the bezel is quite an eyesore.
The tonal treatment of the three sub-dials are nice though!

Also like the overall 'vintage' look.

 

[illuminum]

Why is an in-house movement always seems better value compared to some ETA28XX?
What if the in house movement is a old design, and is available in many of its watches range over the years.
Still in house is better?

My main concern with an in-house movement is the ability (and cost) of getting the watch serviced or repaired five, ten or fifteen years down the road. You would probably have more servicing/repair options if the watch uses an ETA (or other 'standard') movement.

Therefore, to make it 'worthwhile' to have an in-house movement, I think the in-house movement should confer some additional benefit over an ETA movement, eg: better power reserve, additional complication, better components, more decoration, historical significance etc. Also important to have the confidence that the watchmaker will still be around years from now.

If the in-house movement performs or looks no better than an ETA movement and has no special significance, I think I would rather just go for an ETA movement if given the choice, for practical reasons. If a watchmaker wants to reinvent the wheel, at least make sure it is a better wheel !

 

[dominicwor2]

Didn't even notice the date window until you mentioned it!

I lke the arabic numerals but to repeat them on the bezel is quite an eyesore.
The tonal treatment of the three sub-dials are nice though!

Also like the overall 'vintage' look.

i also realised the repetitive numerals are bit redundant.
my poljot says hi nonetheless!

 

[iamvintage]

My main concern with an in-house movement is the ability (and cost) of getting the watch serviced or repaired five, ten or fifteen years down the road. You would probably have more servicing/repair options if the watch uses an ETA (or other 'standard') movement.

Therefore, to make it 'worthwhile' to have an in-house movement, I think the in-house movement should confer some additional benefit over an ETA movement, eg: better power reserve, additional complication, better components, more decoration, historical significance etc. Also important to have the confidence that the watchmaker will still be around years from now.

If the in-house movement performs or looks no better than an ETA movement and has no special significance, I think I would rather just go for an ETA movement if given the choice, for practical reasons. If a watchmaker wants to reinvent the wheel, at least make sure it is a better wheel !

That's quite a valid concern about in-house movements and servicing years later. Thankfully, the more popular watches with in-house movements tend to be the bigger and more established brands. Hence servicing shouldn't be an issue.

Especially if you stick to the bigger names. For example, due to its popularity, apart from RSC, there are a quite a few people outside who can service Rolexes. Patek Philippe even better, iirc, they promise that they can service/repair any if their watches.

If someone is receptive to ETA movements, the number of watches he/she can choose from is phenomenal! Some of the best looking watches (IMO) and popular watches use ETA movements.

I guess I'm not that particular about the source of movements and will go for anything that looks good on me and is within budget. Nothing wrong being a "purist" too. All part of the fun of watch collection/buying.

 

[kehyi4]

I like the arabic numerals but to repeat them on the bezel is quite an eyesore.

It's not redundant though - the internal bezel can be rotated via a crown at 10 o'clock, to designate a 2nd time zone, ie similar to a GMT function. There's a reason why this model is called "Journey"

But I agree - the date window could have been better implemented

 

[iamvintage]

i also realised the repetitive numerals are bit redundant.
my poljot says hi nonetheless!

And hi back to your good looking Poljot!

 

[taeception]

While waiting for my current grail to arrive.. went bencoolen with a friend and end up hooting this hope I'm not cheapening/ruining this thread with this picture, thought it would be nice to have a super affordable once in a while in this thread XD

 

[highsulphur]

While waiting for my current grail to arrive.. went bencoolen with a friend and end up hooting this hope I'm not cheapening/ruining this thread with this picture, thought it would be nice to have a super affordable once in a while in this thread XD

For a moment I thought you bought a datograph..

 

[taeception]

Btw anyone knows the price rang of a Certina DS-1 C006.407.16.031.00 here? Or is there even a retailer carrying this brand..? Googling didn't really help much

 

[iamvintage]

While waiting for my current grail to arrive.. went bencoolen with a friend and end up hooting this hope I'm not cheapening/ruining this thread with this picture, thought it would be nice to have a super affordable once in a while in this thread XD

That's a nice Edifice! Edifice offers good value for money and very reliable. I got one that keeps going on and on and on. Barely uses any battery I reckon.

 

[iamvintage]

Btw anyone knows the price rang of a Certina DS-1 C006.407.16.031.00 here? Or is there even a retailer carrying this brand..? Googling didn't really help much

Thought I saw Certina in DFS before, but I maybe wrong on that. My memory fails me at times.