Then turn off Turbo or Performance Enhancement or whatever it is called in the BIOS. Rule of thumb is power = square of frequency i.e. in order to turbo @ 110% of base clock the CPU will draw 120% the power at least.It's cheaper on Shopee even, about $33. After I use all my coins and vouchers, about $20+ only.
I run a lot of long video renders, so the dust builds up very fast when the CPU is at 100% usage and the fans are spinning up for hours on end. Within two months the fan blades all covered in dust already.
To properly clean the fans I need to remove the heatsink, so there goes the thermal paste.
Air purifier no point cos I don't use aircon very often. The room is quite dusty and the PC is on the floor. Dust filter is just the basic one built into the Corsair Spec 01 case, nothing special.
When it renders it easily runs at 100% CPU fan speed for 12+ hours at one go, so you can imagine the airflow and the dust sucked from the floor after one or two months of that.
The cases I'm looking to upgrade to also nothing special in terms of dust filters and I definitely need a mesh front to keep the system cool during long renders.
Now using stock cooler so it's quite hard to remove the fan from the cooler to clean between, might as well upgrade to save the issue with the backplate.
Then turn off Turbo or Performance Enhancement or whatever it is called in the BIOS. Rule of thumb is power = square of frequency i.e. in order to turbo @ 110% of base clock the CPU will draw 120% the power at least.
Unless you do time-critical 10-hour renders that would be problematic if it takes 11 hours to finish.
*Don't turn off PBO because it actually provides benefits when undervolting/underpoweriing.
With enough tweaking you can cut power to almost half while losing maybe 20% speed. My 5600G CPU-Z score is around 4100-4200, or 10% less than normal 5600G, but it is done with 3.9GHz all clock at <40W package power. x264 rendering is also 3.9GHz all clock while package power limited to 40W.
Thanks, a bit expensive for my taste though. I'm mainly buying it just to not deal with the backplate falling off right now, I won't need the best coolers out there. Anyway I've taken a leap of faith and ordered the SE224 in white, if the plastic yellows over time I'll just unscrew the plastic white bit on top of the heatpipes and it'll look like the 'basic' model with the bare metal.![]()
Another CPU cooler you can consider is Bequiet shadow rock 3, is not entirely white but chrome.
The good thing about this cooler is much easier to install than other CPU cooler in the market.
Yeah so far I haven't moved to AM4 yet, I updated the BIOS on the new board then gave up halfway because of this backplate debacle. Since I'm getting a new case I'd rather install the mobo straight into the new case rather than put in and then take out and reinstall into the new case one week later, but I appreciate the tip which I'll definitely try once I upgrade!Then turn off Turbo or Performance Enhancement or whatever it is called in the BIOS. Rule of thumb is power = square of frequency i.e. in order to turbo @ 110% of base clock the CPU will draw 120% the power at least.
Unless you do time-critical 10-hour renders that would be problematic if it takes 11 hours to finish.
*Don't turn off PBO because it actually provides benefits when undervolting/underpoweriing.
With enough tweaking you can cut power to almost half while losing maybe 20% speed. My 5600G CPU-Z score is around 4100-4200, or 10% less than normal 5600G, but it is done with 3.9GHz all clock at <40W package power. x264 rendering is also 3.9GHz all clock while package power limited to 40W.
noted on your environment condition, but if the room is vacuumed on timely basis I believe it could help a lot as i also placed my pc on floor and dusty room.
before you get the new cooler, i believe for sure you will also check for the cpu clearance of your future pc case and air flow planning too.
your work seems to be highly dependent of the cpu performance, if the budget air cooler unable to control the heat from cpu on substantial high load definitely the workload will prolong, but I guess you are aware of this instances based on the history of your posting in other threads.
I am just curious why not considered a better cpu air cooler for your cpu workload?
as below video, your choice of budget cooler seems good and highly recommended but it is less ideal for powerful cpu.
Skylake i5 draws just 50W when gaming. That's even less than a 5600G.Yeah so far because it's just a Skylake system, I don't think the CPU cooler is a big bottleneck. Even at 100% for 10 hours the CPU barely breaks 70 deg C on the stock cooler and noise is very tolerable. Once I upgrade to AM4 it might be more of an issue with a more powerful CPU. Anyway I ordered the SE 224, will update when I receive it!
Skylake i5 draws just 50W when gaming. That's even less than a 5600G.
https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/u3nK3KNMiWBMWpgqJF943Z-970-80.png
Yeah I didn't have such wide strong tape available and buying it would have cost me $12, almost half the price of the cooler. I've got no use for such tape in other scenarios anyway.Actually, with the backplate issue, if u are not buying a new cooler, u can tape the backplate to the motherboard.
Even if u buy a new cooler, most 3rd party coolers have backplates too, unless u use those clip on ones that are a lot more like the default coolers, which dun really work as well as those with backplates.
Congrats! I also gotten it as well. Performance wise i think its quite decent. I OC to 4.2ghz and at 100% stress test, it hovers about 70s in degree, and at half an hour mark at 80 - 84. have not reached 90 even once in the 30 mins test.Update: So I've got the SE224XT. It's fine really, solved the problem I wanted it to......
Here. $33.80, use coupons and you can get it below $30 pretty easily.