Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

[likehotbutter]

Though some tanneries might come close. Only know of tripleskin.

Yea Tripleskin is probably the closest to the orginal in Tannage.

Their batches seem to sell out fast and I wonder who do they supply to. Having a pair made from modern russian calf is on my to do list.

 

[likehotbutter]

Whats the different between GYW and hand stitched? How can I tell which is which?

Its mostly in the preparation of the holdfast which is what attaches the welt to the midsole.

Handwelt requires the higest quality sole as the cordwainer has to carve a channel and holdfast into it.

Goodyear welt just requires gluing on a piece of fabric gemming which acts as the holdfast. It is a factory line adaptation of the Handwelt for MACHINE work.

More or less the basic differences.

Most brands will try to flog off Goodyear welt as handmade anyway but at best its pure hyperbole.

Try googling for Handwelting vs Goodyear welt. And Good year welt gemming. More pictures and details there

 

[darthsid11111]

Thanks for the advice. I made the decision to get from ed et al. Everyone around my work place wearing obermain/rockport/hanson bootmaker and every time see holes opening and there.

Whats the different between GYW and hand stitched? How can I tell which is which?

Its mostly in the preparation of the holdfast which is what attaches the welt to the midsole.

Handwelt requires the higest quality sole as the cordwainer has to carve a channel and holdfast into it.

Goodyear welt just requires gluing on a piece of fabric gemming which acts as the holdfast. It is a factory line adaptation of the Handwelt for MACHINE work.

More or less the basic differences.

Most brands will try to flog off Goodyear welt as handmade anyway but at best its pure hyperbole.

Try googling for Handwelting vs Goodyear welt. And Good year welt gemming. More pictures and details there

Easy way to tell is the price. At the $300 range it won't be handwelted.

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[urbanturban]

Easy way to tell is the price. At the $300 range it won't be handwelted.

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Although you can find GYW costing more than HW above $1000.

 

[noobzpro]

Where is this holdfast local vass guy? He carries rtw?

 

[darthsid11111]

Although you can find GYW costing more than HW above $1000.

Way out of my league=(

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[Shiro MS08th]

First vibram experience at Tampines 1 Shukey for sole and heel guard at $40.

Seems ok...? Got some excess glue can be seen on one shoe, and both shoes height seem a bit high, not sure balance for walking or not, tomorrow when go walk to work will know haha!

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[darthsid11111]

Splitting hairs man. And if a improperly affixed sole protector is severe enough to affect your balance when walking.. It's not your shoe.

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[Shiro MS08th]

Splitting hairs man. And if a improperly affixed sole protector is severe enough to affect your balance when walking.. It's not your shoe.

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Hahaha!
Thanks for validating it is a decent job done!

 

[darthsid11111]

Hahaha!
Thanks for validating it is a decent job done!

No man, I can't tell much from the pictures because of the angle and light reflections. But what I'm trying to say is that even if the sole protector is improperly affixed it should not affect the way you walk so much that you start walking off balance.

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[Shiro MS08th]

No man, I can't tell much from the pictures because of the angle and light reflections. But what I'm trying to say is that even if the sole protector is improperly affixed it should not affect the way you walk so much that you start walking off balance.

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I see I see, I was thinking more on the flush-ness of the sole guard and heel guard height. Not sure what is the right term but yeah.

Anyway took a few more photos, not sure it's any better.

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[jctj90]

I see I see, I was thinking more on the flush-ness of the sole guard and heel guard height. Not sure what is the right term but yeah.

Anyway took a few more photos, not sure it's any better.

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no worries I did mine at shukey as well, took me a couple of days to get used to it, but it definitely beats tile skating every other time.

 

[darthsid11111]

I see I see, I was thinking more on the flush-ness of the sole guard and heel guard height. Not sure what is the right term but yeah.

Anyway took a few more photos, not sure it's any better.

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That's better and it doesn't look flush man. Next time perhaps need to request for them to filed down the sole a little.

Sole protector filed down by Shukey Suntec

Sloppy pasted on work by Masterfix Seletar Mall

FWIW I broke in both shoes before putting in sole protectors and the Masterfix pair only feels slightly off, and only if you're trying to find fault.

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[Shiro MS08th]

That's better and it doesn't look flush man. Next time perhaps need to request for them to filed down the sole a little.

Sole protector filed down by Shukey Suntec

Sloppy pasted on work by Masterfix Seletar Mall

FWIW I broke in both shoes before putting in sole protectors and the Masterfix pair only feels slightly off, and only if you're trying to find fault.

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Oh dang.
At least now I know what I should be expecting next time, always a learning experience!

So by the meaning of flush in this context, the sole guard should be on the same level (or almost) with the leather sole itself am I right?

 

[darthsid11111]

Oh dang.
At least now I know what I should be expecting next time, always a learning experience!

So by the meaning of flush in this context, the sole guard should be on the same level (or almost) with the leather sole itself am I right?

Yes. It should be flush so that the sole protector doesn't throw the shoe's balance "off".

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[Shiro MS08th]

Yes. It should be flush so that the sole protector doesn't throw the shoe's balance "off".

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Yeah man, but thanks for the info again.

Not sure still want to do the vibram at Tampines 1 Shukey or not, or bring to the Suntec Shukey which did a good job for you. As I still have a Loake Cannon waiting to vibram in a month's time.

I even told the cobbler to file the shoe so can flush fit my vibram, guess he just "entertain" me only, and of course my inexperience to check before leaving also la.

But now roughly know how to check after one time, life's lessons haha!

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[anodize]

took a closer look at my EB wingtips. was quite disappointed. sigh.

the medallion on the left shoe was not aligned to the centre. it's more to the left.

then the left shoe, also got a bit of wrinkling at the side. the right shoe does not have it.

 

[Shiro MS08th]

took a closer look at my EB wingtips. was quite disappointed. sigh.

the medallion on the left shoe was not aligned to the centre. it's more to the left.

then the left shoe, also got a bit of wrinkling at the side. the right shoe does not have it.

Yeah...definitely not aligned.
Probably should be able to exchange as faulty item.

 

[genie47]

For those who are needing socks, Massdrop is selling 3 pairs of Darn Tough for USD36.99. Shipping to SG is USD11.88.

A pair of Darn Toughs sell for near USD20 a pair from Amazon.

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/darn-tough-work-socks

 

[arcfire]

took a closer look at my EB wingtips. was quite disappointed. sigh.

the medallion on the left shoe was not aligned to the centre. it's more to the left.

then the left shoe, also got a bit of wrinkling at the side. the right shoe does not have it.

Damn, sad to see that coming from EB.... I would email them to check...