Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

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thundermarch

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Do take note that you'll probably need to go half a size up for most of Antonio's lasts.
They run short and a little narrow.
 

paladin

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There is a laundry shop at level 2 Heartland Mall which uses JR soles for resole and also stitching. When I questioned the shop assistant, he cannot tell me Blake or goodyear stitch. So should be outsourced somewhere. Anyone tried before? I think the JR soles were for $125 ( cannot remwmber full or half sole) and stitching cost at least $30.
 

thundermarch

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There is a laundry shop at level 2 Heartland Mall which uses JR soles for resole and also stitching. When I questioned the shop assistant, he cannot tell me Blake or goodyear stitch. So should be outsourced somewhere. Anyone tried before? I think the JR soles were for $125 ( cannot remwmber full or half sole) and stitching cost at least $30.

Pardon me.

You are conflating 2 entirely different things.

There is generally a lot of confusion between the process of welting, and re-soling.

"Blake stitched" and "Goodyear welted" refer to 2 very distinct, fundamentally different, construction methods. Blake stitched shoes have a single layer of stitching between uppers, insole and outsole. There is no welt for this construction method.

Goodyear welted shoes have a welt, uppers and insole stitched together. You may refer to this step as inseaming.
The welt is then machine stitched to an outsole (the JR sole that you are talking about).
There is no such thing, as a goodyear stitch. Unless you are referring to the type of stitch the goodyear machine uses during the inseaming process, which is a chain stitch.

What you should be asking, is how the outsole is attached. Or how the resoling is done. In this case, it is inevitably machine stitched. The type of stitch the machine employs, is also a chain stitch.
The alternative is a hand stitched outsole. There are only 2 people in SG I know of, who can hand stitch an outsole. Josh Leong. And Keith Poh. In this instance, the type of stitch used, is a shoemaker's stitch, which is much stronger than a chain stitch.

During the process of re-soling (not re-crafting), regardless of whether the original shoe is goodyear welted, or hand welted, the inseam and welt, are left untouched.
 
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mr_hare

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Pardon me.

You are conflating 2 entirely different things.

There is generally a lot of confusion between the process of welting, and re-soling.

"Blake stitched" and "Goodyear welted" refer to 2 very distinct, fundamentally different, construction methods. Blake stitched shoes have a single layer of stitching between uppers, insole and outsole. There is no welt for this construction method.

Goodyear welted shoes have a welt, uppers and insole stitched together. You may refer to this step as inseaming.
The welt is then machine stitched to an outsole (the JR sole that you are talking about).
There is no such thing, as a goodyear stitch. Unless you are referring to the type of stitch the goodyear machine uses during the inseaming process, which is a chain stitch.

What you should be asking, is how the outsole is attached. Or how the resoling is done. In this case, it is inevitably machine stitched. The type of stitch the machine employs, is also a chain stitch.
The alternative is a hand stitched outsole. There are only 2 people in SG I know of, who can hand stitch an outsole. Josh Leong. And Keith Poh. In this instance, the type of stitch used, is a shoemaker's stitch, which is much stronger than a chain stitch.

During the process of re-soling (not re-crafting), regardless of whether the original shoe is goodyear welted, or hand welted, the inseam and welt, are left untouched.

Interesting you mentioned Keith Poh. I read about him previously. But he seems to have gone under the radar for a quite a bit. Any idea what is he up to i.e. is he doing bespoke like Josh Leong?
 

sellwatch

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Shiro MS08th

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bro u talking abt sgd 275?? i was looking at loake aldwych...

https://www.robinsonsshoes.com/loake-aldwych

i read back.. metro centrepoint still has it?

Yes.
It's £179.13 excluding VAT, then when buy during 20% promo will cut it down to £144. But you will need at least £150 (approx $267 SGD currently) to qualify for free shipping, so just buy some Collonil shoe cream/wax as filler to hit free shipping.
 

huangwn88

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Thank you for sharing :)
How do people like me buy shoes online if they aren't sure of the last and actual width of shoes? Any advice? Cheers

It is almost impossible to compare widths between different makers based on the alphabet "value" assigned.
The system is fairly arbitrary, but suffice to say that standard width is most comonly defined as either "E" or "F" width. Which means to say that regardless of maker, "D" is almost always narrow, and "G" is almost always wide, for a particular last of a particular maker.
It would be impossible to say, however, if E width for maker X is narrower than F width for maker Y.

Next, one would also need to consider the "natural width" of the last. For example, for EB, 363MOD last in standard width is wider than 2102B last in standard width.
Which means, in this case, the alphabet value counts for next to nothing when discussing width.
 

RayeAng

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Yes.
It's £179.13 excluding VAT, then when buy during 20% promo will cut it down to £144. But you will need at least £150 (approx $267 SGD currently) to qualify for free shipping, so just buy some Collonil shoe cream/wax as filler to hit free shipping.

Rmb there was a glitch or maybe just their system. The 150pounds free shipping is enable so long the original price is > 150 pounds. After discount code it will still work.
 

RayeAng

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I am getting some stuff from Bexley

bexley.com

If you are interested pls pm me. Collection will be in the west during weekdays or central/west during weekend.
 

thundermarch

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Interesting you mentioned Keith Poh. I read about him previously. But he seems to have gone under the radar for a quite a bit. Any idea what is he up to i.e. is he doing bespoke like Josh Leong?

I have no idea really. Sorry.
I mentioned him only to illustrate how scarce the skill is. At least locally.
 

thundermarch

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Thank you for sharing :)
How do people like me buy shoes online if they aren't sure of the last and actual width of shoes? Any advice? Cheers

You could ask the retailer for sizing advice, or ask the online community for what they feel are close approximations for the last you are looking at, and see if these are available locally.
 

urbanturban

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Thank you for sharing :)
How do people like me buy shoes online if they aren't sure of the last and actual width of shoes? Any advice? Cheers

Buy your usual size (on other shoes or sneakers) and then lots of trial and error. You will understand your feet after a while.
 

sellwatch

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Yes.
It's £179.13 excluding VAT, then when buy during 20% promo will cut it down to £144. But you will need at least £150 (approx $267 SGD currently) to qualify for free shipping, so just buy some Collonil shoe cream/wax as filler to hit free shipping.

thanks bro for sharing this.

Now gotta wait for the 20% promo. If anybody got any discount code from your previous purchase, can share as well?

Side note, wats the review on herring vs robinsons? Which is the prefer seller here?
 

All in a Day

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Thank you for sharing :)
How do people like me buy shoes online if they aren't sure of the last and actual width of shoes? Any advice? Cheers

Shortlist the brand/model you are interested in and then post it here or search online for size advice etc.

Chances are if you selected a pretty common brand/model, you'll most likely receive some fairly reliable advice.
 

All in a Day

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thanks bro for sharing this.

Now gotta wait for the 20% promo. If anybody got any discount code from your previous purchase, can share as well?

Side note, wats the review on herring vs robinsons? Which is the prefer seller here?

herring need to pay for shipping but they use DHL.. u get within half a week or so from ordering. They seldom have discounts (apart from their house brand).

Robinsons always got discount code as already mentioned. Shipping is typically free if you hit min. order but takes forever.

Personally I would get from Robinsons to save $ unless I need something very urgently.
 

sellwatch

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herring need to pay for shipping but they use DHL.. u get within half a week or so from ordering. They seldom have discounts (apart from their house brand).

Robinsons always got discount code as already mentioned. Shipping is typically free if you hit min. order but takes forever.

Personally I would get from Robinsons to save $ unless I need something very urgently.

thanks bro for your suggestions.
 
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