Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

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likehotbutter

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Man I think Horween's No.2 (Carmina's Rubi) is such a sick colour.

Wonder if Bonafe stocks that cordovan. Their MTO upcharge is really affordable :s13:
 

All in a Day

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IMO

Outside of fashion and wealth flaunting purposes, the affection for craft quality often accompanies an elevation and appreciation of time honored traditions.

It is a statement, of an individual who seeks to express (no matter how slight) their appreciation of an era lost, of handwork, skill and provenance over the often slip-shod quality and short lifespans of modern Consumerism with their inbuilt EoL cycles, or the soulless electronic efficiency of technological progress.

So I'd hazard that the Euro Straight is commonly worn for what it is, a representation and a subtle nod to tradition, an anachronistic flair of times past. :D

I guess your theory somewhat applies to me. It's like a whole package and perhaps social conditioning where I simply associate the lacing method to the type of shoes and will feel weird applying a lacing method typically used for sneakers on dress shoes (and vice versa).
 

likehotbutter

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Damm EB dosnt have the pattern for my planned boot.

But it can be done... 4k Sek for a new pattern... Decisions decisions decisions :s22:
 

BallGag

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Heck, get the new Carmina longwings and CXL boots while you're at it. Curse my UK 5.5 feet
 

likehotbutter

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Get the new EB split toe.
Heck, get the new Carmina longwings and CXL boots while you're at it. Curse my UK 5.5 feet

You gona get it? Its quite a decent copy from the pics. Unfo Im in an ankle boot phase atm, topped off with cordovan fever. Why...why cant EB have a George boot! :(

At this rate we'll all be Thundermarches! :s13:
 

likehotbutter

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LHB, can share the pic of what you have in mind?

Trying to get a George Boot made in Cordovan. Horween Colour 2 or 4.

Basically a high shafted British Army Ankle Boot with 3 eyelets placed at the very top of the quarters. Still trying to decide on Shaft Length but should be 5.5 -6 inches.

Proper Chukkas should only be low shafted (4 inches +/-) with 2-3 eyelets in the middle of the quarters, suede/crepe soled variants are termed Desert Boots. But terms get mixed up and thrown about in today's marketing speak anyway, as Chukka's are an easily recognisable term by the consumer :s13:

Antique Officer Pair by Vass
ANGXI97.jpg


Actual antique Brit Army Pair by Cleverly
WrrIM5N.jpg


Guess I'll shoot off an email to Vass to see if they still have this pattern in their library and if they are willing to execute it in Cordovan.

If not perhaps I'll settle with EB using their current chukka pattern for a form similar to this oddly termed "Jodphur" by Lobbs :s22:

MwN5fzj.jpg
 

All in a Day

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Trying to get a George Boot made in Cordovan. Horween Colour 2 or 4.

Basically a high shafted British Army Ankle Boot with 3 eyelets placed at the very top of the quarters. Still trying to decide on Shaft Length but should be 5.5 -6 inches.

Proper Chukkas should only be low shafted (4 inches +/-) with 2-3 eyelets in the middle of the quarters, suede/crepe soled variants are termed Desert Boots. But terms get mixed up and thrown about in today's marketing speak anyway, as Chukka's are an easily recognisable term by the consumer :s13:

Antique Officer Pair by Vass
ANGXI97.jpg


Actual antique Brit Army Pair by Cleverly
WrrIM5N.jpg


Guess I'll shoot off an email to Vass to see if they still have this pattern in their library and if they are willing to execute it in Cordovan.

If not perhaps I'll settle with EB using their current chukka pattern for a form similar to this oddly termed "Jodphur" by Lobbs :s22:

MwN5fzj.jpg

U do like chukkas huh considering u literally just bought the carmina cordovan chukkas
 

likehotbutter

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U do like chukkas huh considering u literally just bought the carmina cordovan chukkas

Ordered yours aldry? :D

Not so much chukkas (too short shaft) but ankle boots :p

Appreciate the extra support around the ankle, yet lighter than a full boot and dressy enough for formal wear when executed properly.

Fwiw I think Aldens chukkas are horrid. Fat and ungainly
 

genie47

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Posted this on the Vietnam thread in EDMW. Now put it here. Reproduced word for word include the pics.

A shopping tip for those going to Saigon.

Don't buy shoes at Ben Thanh Market. I think those guys who are in the mens fashion thread should take note. Get custom-made shoes along Lê Thánh Tôn. Just a walk away. That is where all the cobblers cobble around.

Of special mention is Hiệu Giày Trần Quốc Lân at 97 Lê Thánh Tôn. You can find it on Google maps but it isn't that accurate. It is not on the same side as the Ho Chi Minh City Museum. Rather on the south side.

Google street view pic.

https://goo.gl/maps/vuSYT746hnu

The shoes on display are already made. Most of them imperfect but nobody will know unless they stare down at your shoes. A pair that is either made from cow or buffalo leather is around VND1,650,000 and they accept credit cards save for Amex it seems. A custom made pair goes above VND2,000,000! But wow! for that price to get a custom made pair is amazing!

Now on this same side if you look at the street view pic is shop with HANOI.

https://goo.gl/maps/7rFo6j4sbhD2

This is Tiệm Giày Hanoi Chaussures. The old lady there is actually the shop keeper. It harks back to 1929 and their shoes are cheaper than Hiệu Giày Trần Quốc Lân. The reason is clear. Hiệu Giày Trần Quốc Lân stitches their soles to the shoes. Hanoi Chaussures glues them on. You can get a pair of good looking leather shoes from them for as low as VND650,000 and these are no BATA (buy and throw away) shoes. The soles are made in Vietnam and they sport modern thread marks. Trần Quốc Lân uses Vibram soles which explains their price. Hanoi Chaussures only accept cash.

The womens' shoes for both are rather uninspiring but if your lady might like to wear traditional designs with real animal leather instead of the Charles and Keith stuff, this might do for her.

Both shops do repair. I see piles and piles of shoes that are being sent for repair outside the shops when they are closed for lunch. Apparently, their shop collects shoes to be brought back for repair.

The shoes I bought.

TEnnvzp.jpg


Left and centre are from Hanoi Chaussures. Left is VND800,000 and centre is VND650,000 Right is from Trần Quốc Lân. Most expensive at VND1,650,000.

All are handmade.
 

genie47

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Reviews online mainly feature Trần Quốc Lân. I only discovered Hanoi Chaussures as I was passing by and found it intriguing nobody seem to mention them.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/351083/shoes-from-tran-quoc-lan-creases

http://sleevehead.blogspot.sg/2008/10/vietnamese-shoemaking-tran-quoc-lan.html

Sleeve Head got pics of his shoes from Trần Quốc Lân in Flickr. He compared them to the Edward Green 888 below.

Tran Quoc Lan / Edward Green 888 by sleevehead, on Flickr

Tran Quoc Lan 2 eyelet derby 02 by sleevehead, on Flickr

As reviewed by Sleeve Head, you can just send your old shoes to get them "cloned" by them or just bring some magazine with your favorite shoe to be custom-made. He is quite on the spot for the pricing at VND2.0M a pair.

OK the opening hours for these shops are 08:30 AM to 12:00 PM. Trần Quốc Lân opens again at 13:30 PM and then closes at 18:00 PM. Hanoi Chaussures reopens at 14:00 PM and closes at 18:00 PM.

Another thing to note about buying shoes from them is that there is no box!

All the shoes are stuffed into clear plastic bags. Tied with with rubber band and loaded into their plastic shop carrier bag with their shops' name on it! Very unglam but it will do. I'm not complaining. :D
 
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genie47

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The other place I will be exploring will be Bandung. Apparently, it is the capital of custom-made shoes in Indonesia. My contacts in Indonesia tells me they will be worth exploring and I hope my next business visit to Indonesia can nab me some contacts and places.
 

genie47

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Someone asked me for the closeups.

MOJCkfh.jpg

The black one from Hanoi Chaussures.

C1p5l7i.jpg

Burgundy loafer hybrid from Hanoi Chaussures.
 
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