Hi Folks,
I just chanced upon this forum and would like to learn more about good and comfortable working shoes as I always happened to buy not so good one and I think it is affecting my health or condition unconsciously.
I have a flat and wide feet and many models offered usually dont cater this. I prefer soft leather too for flexible movement and I started to think semi boot height might be better for full support? And whether wood or rubber sole is better?
Appreciate if anyone has any info about my above condition and preference - any model to recommend and for me to try?
Thanks in advance for your help - bookmarking this thread
I think there is no easy answer to this.
The scope of discussion (and also most of the knowledge) here is centred mainly around factory made GYW shoes.
You have specific orthopaedic considerations (wide and flat feet) that are typically not addressed by run of the mill RTW shoes, GYW or otherwise.
I think I will approach your questions by addressing these areas:
1) Flat feet
Unfortunately, this is a very common problem and there's no easy answer to this. The main problem here is medial arch collapse and most orthopaedic measures and focused on arch support.
In other words, the best solution is a personalised insole custom made by a podiatrist. It costs a fair bit, but is quite helpful. And the specific insole and how it's worn depends on your specific gait problems and the symptoms experienced. While certainly very helpful, they are rather bulky and you might need rather bulky, ungainly work shoes to accommodate for this.
I've personally used such insoles before due to injuries I sustained from distance running (I have flat feet too), and the main thing is to look for shoes that have sufficient height to account for the arch support of the insole. Width isn't so much of a problem as the insoles can be cut down to the required size.
If you are very concerned about the appearance and aesthetics, and if your symptoms are very significant, I am afraid the next best solution would be to go bespoke. Specifically with bespoke makers who have training in orthopaedic problems. You can look at Kenji Hashimoto (on Instagram). He has incorporated numerous orthopaedic techniques into his shoe / last making to account for problems like hallux valgus, diabetic feet, etc. His shoemaking skills are also top notch. Even regular bespoke makers (no orthopaedic training) have issues with fitting flat footed guys. And even then, their primary concern would be to create an aesthetically pleasing last while accomodating your feet. And the ortheopaedic issues might not be fully addressed.
If you are very keen on having a nice pair of GYW shoes and have your insole. Your best bet would be to get your insole done up first, and then bring it down to perhaps Robinson's or wherever it is where you can get the shoes of your choice, and try and fit the shoes, with the insole inside it. You will need a pair of scissors.
Of course, apart from footwear, there are also other treatment modalities for flat feet... like weight loss / physiotherapy and conditioning / gait training / correcting your running form etc etc.
Medical treatment is frequently not one-dimensional.
2) Wide feet
(In your case), probably a consequence of flat feet, due to the arch collapse and splaying of the feet outwards.
This issue can be addressed with varying widths of RTW shoes, GYW or otherwise. Or by the nature of the last.
Unfortunately, most RTW come in "standard" widths. A way to go around it would be to MTO your shoes and choose a wider width, but this would require prior knowledge and experience with the last of your choice.
Your best bet here would be to go try on some shoes that are made in lasts that are known to be "generous" or "wide" in their regular width. Like perhaps Loake Capital, Carmina Soller / Detroit etc....
3) Good shoes
As I'd mentioned earlier, most of the discussion on this thread is centred around GYW shoes and shoes that are of "better quality" construction compared to Aldo / Pedro cemented, mass produced stuff. So if you're coming here and mentioning that you buy "not so good" shoes I assume that this might be one of your considerations?
Thing is, the fact that the shoes are made with full grain leather and GYW, might not have significant direct impact on improving your problems with flat feet. In fact, the relative stiffness of these shoes due to the very nature of the construction (the presence of gemming does confer a certain stiffness to the shoes) may make it even more painful for you at least initially.
The subject of good / better made shoes, and having them, relates directly to the longevity, durability, and to some extent, the aesthetics, of the shoes. And also starts delving into the realm of classic menswear and "looking good".
4) Soles
I do not know of any shoes with wooden soles apart from clogs.
That being said, the most common sole materials discussed are either leather, or rubber.
The reasons behind the choice would be both stylistic, and practicality.
If stiffness is a concern (and rightfully so in your case), then I would discourage double leather soles, and double dainite (rubber) soles.
Single dainite and single leather soles are more or less equally flexible imo.
Most people choose rubber soles for wet weather shoes, and may also choose to topy their soles for this very reason. I also find that rubber soles wear down at the toe less quickly than leather (this is ostensibly due one's gait, and to some extent, the fit).
There has also been discussion regarding rubber soles being less slippery than new (or relatively new) leather soled shoes. I have experienced no such thing and will not comment further.
5) Ankle high boots?
I don't think ankle high boots or chukkas are going to address your issue here with regards to "full support" for flat feet. As mentioned earlier, the main issue here is arch support. The fact that ankle boots have uppers extending to just above your ankle, may in fact, confer some restriction to ankle movement, which may or may not be a good thing for you. There might be some additional support if you have some form of ankle instability, but I'm just hazarding a guess here. Pes planus (flat feet) may in fact cause earlier degenerative changes in the ankle that may in turn cause ankle rigidity, that would be made worse with restrictive boots.
I would recommend ankle boots / chukkas only if it's your stylistic choice.
