*Official* Shiny Things club - Part 2

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flowerpalms

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Pls pardon and allow me to sidetrack this post to talk little abt Insurance.

As per shinys book regarding term life insurance, i have a Mylifechoice insurance with Aviva which is a whole life insurance. I have paid $256.70 per month since starting this policy from April 2017. And i chose to pay this premium for 15 years. I am 30 and single now. Which means another 13 more years.

And according to Aviva, based on a projected investment rate of return of 4.75% p.a. the projected lump sum cash withdrawal age age 65, which is not guaranteed is $54,220.

At this point, should i review my plan and change to a lower plan eg. Term life or continue paying the premiums for 13 more years? What are my options?
 
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Jewely

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Hi I have just finished reading the book. Just wondering how to decided the amount to set aside every month. For simple illustration purpose, let’s say I want to reach $1million in 10 years for my retirement. Ignore the allocation to different asset class.
1) Does it mean this year I will put in $100k spread over 12months?
2) if market moves positively and 1 year later my $100k invested has market value of $150k, so I will put in $50k next year to bring total to $200k?
 

swan02

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lump sum now at historical high just to see them crash within next 2 years? This is going to be painful though.

Are you market timing ? I'm sure you realise you can't be certain it will crash within next 2 years, hence at least I hope you are still DCAing into the market.

We are both typical investors. IMO many of us are.

I myself accept I'm market timing and because I know my risk profile well, I find dca and cape ratio are fantastic tools to guide my fear in the event of perceived overvaluation. Its difficult to lump sum during events such as now.

Back I think 2016 or so. I reduced my Asset allocation to like 30/70 or so. I even blog about that "this is the end etc". On hindsight, I wish I could turn back the clock and remained at 100% equities all the way. The opportunity cost would be astounding and I didn't dare calculate.

And then come today, and still I have not learnt my lesson even while being aware the research clearly backs lump sum, that market timing rarely beats time in the market.

Psychology in investing trumps over research and prolly that's why Shiny's incessant fedups and maybe grunts over people calling for imminent crashes due to several variables he so wish to debunk is not getting through to investors such as us.

But at least this time, I know sleep is way more important then research and theories and chasing after returns.

but at least, I also know I must always remain invested while many others sold out as I could be wrong. I set my bar at 20/80 which I'm at now. And increasing my equity per year i.e. DCA. I prepare for what I think I'm right, but have room for when I'm wrong. Imagine the feeling equities go all the way to Cape 40 and I'm at zero equity.

Also another reason always to be invested and DCAing is that I fear a long side moving market more so than a V shape crash.

*people need to be aware that DCA is the option you have to lump sum but choose not to.

*If you don't have that option to DCA, you are effectively lump summing even though you are doing every month. Thus your opportunity cost is effectively zero as compared to the true DCAer.
 
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swan02

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Hi I have just finished reading the book. Just wondering how to decided the amount to set aside every month. For simple illustration purpose, let’s say I want to reach $1million in 10 years for my retirement. Ignore the allocation to different asset class.
1) Does it mean this year I will put in $100k spread over 12months?
2) if market moves positively and 1 year later my $100k invested has market value of $150k, so I will put in $50k next year to bring total to $200k?

Point 2 looks like value averaging and looks realistically applicable from with point 1 as I suspect you seem to have cash lying around. Maybe you should look into this strategy and see whether applicable.
 

Shiny Things

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Are there any recommended ETFs for emerging markets?

I can't imagine any reason to use anything other than EIMI. Why do you ask?

Hello, and thank you for the wealth of financial advice on this thread!

After reading Shiny Things' book, I am currently choosing between having IB or StanChart as my broker for IWDA, and would like to seek your opinions.

Oh - IB might actually be a better bet in your case, because you have that US bank account floating around. You can get the money out of your US bank account into IBKR pretty easily.

Once you turn 25, you can decide whether to keep the IB account open or transfer your shares to Stanchart.

Hi I have just finished reading the book. Just wondering how to decided the amount to set aside every month. For simple illustration purpose, let’s say I want to reach $1million in 10 years for my retirement. Ignore the allocation to different asset class.
1) Does it mean this year I will put in $100k spread over 12months?
2) if market moves positively and 1 year later my $100k invested has market value of $150k, so I will put in $50k next year to bring total to $200k?

Yeah, kind of. If you want to get to a million in ten years, then, leaving aside interest, you'll have to save about $8,300 a month.

To question 2... no, that strategy is bonkers. You'd keep saving your $8,300 a month - and any excess returns is just a bonus. See below.

Point 2 looks like value averaging and looks realistically applicable from with point 1 as I suspect you seem to have cash lying around. Maybe you should look into this strategy and see whether applicable.

Value averaging is a really silly strategy: whoever came up with it has obviously never invested money.

The problem is - what if markets go down by a lot? In the example above, if markets went down by a half after year one, then he'd have to find $150,000 in year 2! Where's he going to get that from?

Pls pardon and allow me to sidetrack this post to talk little abt Insurance.

As per shinys book regarding term life insurance, i have a Mylifechoice insurance with Aviva which is a whole life insurance. [...]

And according to Aviva, based on a projected investment rate of return of 4.75% p.a. the projected lump sum cash withdrawal age age 65, which is not guaranteed is $54,220.

That is a lie, even if they’re technically “allowed” to use a 4.75% return projection. 4.75% is not an achievable return when SGD bonds are yielding low-2s. They won't be able to deliver anywhere near that amount.

At this point, should i review my plan and change to a lower plan eg. Term life or continue paying the premiums for 13 more years? What are my options?
Tear it up.

lump sum now at historical high just to see them crash within next 2 years? This is going to be painful though.

Firstly, markets tend to be at or near their highs. If you didn’t invest just because markets were near their historical highs, you’d have sat out the whole of the 1980s, and most of the 2010s.

Secondly, how do you know markets are going to crash within the next two years? Even if they do crash, that’s why you don’t dump a lump sum in all at once - you spread it over a few months, so if the market goes down while you’re investing, you can still buy more at the cheaper price.

Hi Shiny, everyone

How did you invest in etfs? Through RSPs with bank eg. Posb invest saver or just pump in lump sum with a broker eg. Dbs vickers?

You’re conflating two things:
1 - lump sum versus regular investing? And,
2 - a RSP product versus a regular brokerage account?

The answer to 1) is “whatever you can afford”. Generally, people get paid regularly, and they invest out of their paycheck, so people will tend to regularly invest. Even if you have a lump sum, it’s not a good idea to invest it all at once (it’s mathematically good, but for behavioral-finance reasons it’s tough), so you can spread a lump sum over 4-6 months. (BBCW advocates longer periods sometimes, and I’m fine with that; as long as you’re investing it in the first place, that’s what matters.)

The answer to 2 is “whatever’s cheaper”. I like POSB IS because it’s cheaper than a normal brokerage account for regular investments, which is how most people invest.

For the global portion of the investment portfolio, what are the pros and cons of investing in IWDA only versus investing in IWDA + EIMI versus investing in VWRA only?

Hmm - good question.

IWDA: cheap, good, liquid, you don’t actually need emerging-markets exposure that much;

IWDA + EIMI: more expensive, higher transaction costs, why bother when VWRA exists;

VWRA: cheap for what it is but a higher expense ratio than IWDA, do you actually need emerging-markets exposure?
 

flowerpalms

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Shiny,

Let me write to Aviva to tear it up and get back any surrender value i have - if there is! I have paid so much already :( . I checked back the policy. For my age, if i were to terminate now, i can get back the net surrender value of $668.64. If i were to hold this until age 65, the guaranteed surrender value is $65,500. Not sure about the non guaranteed though.

My coverage on death, TPD...is then gone. I am not sure if i am able to switch to term life with Aviva or have to find another insurance provider As my medisheid is with Aviva as well.

Looking forward to your further advice how i can move through this
 
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BBCWatcher

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I can't imagine any reason to use anything other than EIMI.
U.S. persons should not touch EIMI for PFIC tax-related reasons.

Once you turn 25, you can decide whether to keep the IB account open or transfer your shares to Stanchart.
But you have another whole year to decide, because IB’s monthly activity fee (monthly minimum commission) doesn’t increase to US$10/month until your 26th birthday. And if you do switch, you would need to sell the non-U.S. listed stuff then repurchase it at the new broker, which has a cost. IB doesn’t facilitate in-kind transfers of that sort.

(BBCW advocates longer periods sometimes, and I’m fine with that; as long as you’re investing it in the first place, that’s what matters.)
I don’t advocate it, but I don’t object to it either. If somebody wants to take 12 or even, at a stretch, 18 months to dollar cost average a “big” windfall into long-term investments, I’m not too fussed.

My coverage on death, TPD...is then gone. I am not sure if i am able to switch to term life with Aviva or have to find another insurance provider As my medisheid is with Aviva as well.
Do you even have any dependents?
 

flowerpalms

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No dependant . 30 and single

U.S. persons should not touch EIMI for PFIC tax-related reasons.


But you have another whole year to decide, because IB’s monthly activity fee (monthly minimum commission) doesn’t increase to US$10/month until your 26th birthday. And if you do switch, you would need to sell the non-U.S. listed stuff then repurchase it at the new broker, which has a cost. IB doesn’t facilitate in-kind transfers of that sort.


I don’t advocate it, but I don’t object to it either. If somebody wants to take 12 or even, at a stretch, 18 months to dollar cost average a “big” windfall into long-term investments, I’m not too fussed.


Do you even have any dependents?
 

BBCWatcher

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No dependant . 30 and single
No dependents = no life insurance. You simply don’t need it. Although if you’re looking for a beneficiary to name for your life insurance, pick me! ;)

Most probably you need disability insurance, though. Do you have DII?
 

flowerpalms

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What is DII?

Currently i have the following insurance with Aviva:

1. Medisheid life Plan 2 government hosp
2. Aviva mylifechoice $256.70/month since Apr 2017

What about the private medishield coverage? How can i move on now since this termination will cause me financial loss?

No dependents = no life insurance. You simply don’t need it. Although if you’re looking for a beneficiary to name for your life insurance, pick me! ;)

Most probably you need disability insurance, though. Do you have DII?
 
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BBCWatcher

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What is DII?
This blogger explains DII rather well, I think.

Currently i have the following insurance with Aviva:
1. Medisheid life Plan 2 government hosp
I think it’s just called MyShield Plan 2, and that’s fine. Not best-in-class, but decent. Do you also have a rider? If so, which one?

2. Aviva mylifechoice $256.70/month since Apr 2017
Yes, this one has been the main topic of discussion. If you don’t mind me asking, why did you get it?
 

flowerpalms

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I did some maths and considerations and downgraded to plan 2 including the healthplus because of the increase of premiums for private hospital in insurance companies across the board. However, as i am already an existing policy holder for 2 years, i get to remain in my 100% rider instead of changing to the co-payment riders. So what i did was only to downgrade my plan to plan 2 while remain 100% rider, monitoring that if premiums increase significantly again in future for this then i will consider co-payment because i wanted to be 100% covered for as long as i can afford.

My rider is the My healthplus option C plan 2 cover myshield annual deductible.

Why i get mylifechoice is because i wanted a savings (where i can cash out upon maturity) + protection plan. Is such plan not needed for one without dependant?


This blogger explains DII rather well, I think.


I think it’s just called MyShield Plan 2, and that’s fine. Not best-in-class, but decent. Do you also have a rider? If so, which one?


Yes, this one has been the main topic of discussion. If you don’t mind me asking, why did you get it?
 
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swan02

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I did some maths and considerations and downgraded to plan 2 including the healthplus because of the increase of premiums for private hospital in insurance companies across the board. However, as i am already an existing policy holder for 2 years, i get to remain in my 100% rider instead of changing to the co-payment riders. So what i did was only to downgrade my plan to plan 2 while remain 100% rider, monitoring that if premiums increase significantly again in future for this then i will consider co-payment because i wanted to be 100% covered for as long as i can afford.

My rider is the My healthplus option C plan 2 cover myshield annual deductible.

Why i get mylifechoice is because i wanted a savings (where i can cash out upon maturity) + protection plan. Is such plan not needed for one without dependant?

IMO. DI and TPD still have to be rigorous even when one does not have dependence. Hospital up to standard plans are already good.

Remember DI only covers 75% of your salary, and you have to read the definitions in DI to agree whether you can accept those conditions. They are not as rigorous as overseas income protections.

So take note that if you have debt, and that 25% was part of your debt cover. Be aware of that.

How are you going to replace covering that debt when you are in actual TPD mode for life ?. i.e. ill, bed bound, ventilated via tracheostomy, Nasogastric tubes, unable to move permanently and yet want to live for the next 20-30 years given excellent care and love. You can forget about emergency funds to be of any help.

Your immediate family may provide that love and their broken backs. They may receive good training from professional nurses, but yet it is a good idea requiring one or two helpers to assist. Going through life with a painful back and being old is a terrible feeling.

TPD minimum should at least cover your debt, and then you should think thoroughly the amount of cover. Eliminating your debt also helps eliminating sequence of risk returns. You are effectively "retiree" mode upon TPD.

I personally would rank DI as highest priority, and TPD not far behind with minimum amount covering your debt for starters. Hospital cover no more than standard should suffice.

And not forgetting you still have not looked into "insuring" that 25%" lost income upon DI along with some not so great definitions and features that comes with SG DI plans.

And that's why any life insurances or investment linked, CI, personal accidents whatever, need to be eliminated asap so that all savings are invested in IB and RSP asap to cover any loop holes that insurances can't cover.

You started in 2017, really this is a very cheap lesson learnt. I've seen many with at least 10 years and some 20 years.

Savings plans may be useful, but I believe that's why we have the CPF for that.

The true "forced" saving, if you can muster enough discipline is also to contribute to CPF for CPF life.

I think you might need a fee based financial planner. But typically they are only interested in HNW. Perhaps BBC who has so much time to contribute to this forum might be willing to do pro bono lol.
 

flowerpalms

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Looks like i have to cancel my Aviva mylifechoice.
And get DI and TPD . Any recommendations/suggestions how i can approach this?
 

littleredboy

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Flowerpalms,
I was in the same situation as you, but with Pru.
I surrendered, and got back half of my money. That was because when I reviewed my BI, the figures doesn't make sense. Their projected 3.25%, 4.25%, are just...projected and not guaranteed. The only guarantee is after 20 years I will definitely get my capital back. Where in the world do you borrow money with 0 interest for 20 years? My agent says I will regret it and wished me all the best...so...🤷🏻*♂️

Its not my agent was "bad", its just he didnt know better, like the majority of people. He belongs to the self-employed quadrant, not the investors mindset.

I hope you understand you are still young, the cuts you gonna have is frankly, quite negligible. Imagine mine is 50% because of my youth years' ignorance 🤦🏻*♂️

If there is any surrender value at all, use it wisely, you got time on your side.
 

flowerpalms

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How did you get back half the amount? You surrendered in ur later years?

I logged into mg Aviva account:

For my Aviva lifechoice, the total premiums paid is $8214.40 (which is correct based om 32 months from 2017 until now). The net surrender value currently is stated as $668.64 - not sure how Aviva computed this because according to my contract the guaranteed surrender value is $0 as per my policy age of 30.

Am i right to say that if i cancel this policy now, i will not get back any surrender value
iUhUioh.jpg




Flowerpalms,
I was in the same situation as you, but with Pru.
I surrendered, and got back half of my money. That was because when I reviewed my BI, the figures doesn't make sense. Their projected 3.25%, 4.25%, are just...projected and not guaranteed. The only guarantee is after 20 years I will definitely get my capital back. Where in the world do you borrow money with 0 interest for 20 years? My agent says I will regret it and wished me all the best...so...🤷🏻*♂️

Its not my agent was "bad", its just he didnt know better, like the majority of people. He belongs to the self-employed quadrant, not the investors mindset.

I hope you understand you are still young, the cuts you gonna have is frankly, quite negligible. Imagine mine is 50% because of my youth years' ignorance 🤦🏻*♂️

If there is any surrender value at all, use it wisely, you got time on your side.
 
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flowerpalms

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Shiny,

I have not yet buy your book, i will but it from Amazon when i get my salary on the 26th. I will slowly read and savour the book.

But just a question here first on my consideration.

I already have more than 6 months of my salary as emergency funds in my bank account. I have about 9 months.
Based on my monthly salary, i commit monthly 50% of it for the following in order from highest to lowest:
1. Parents allowance
2. Own expenses (can be lower)
3. Insurance
4. Starhub service at home
5. Handphone bill
6. Transport
This 50% is fixed at the moment

I started this thing called a 52 week challenge this year and separately to my bank account, i have a Milo tin of $750 currently. As well as a very small USD investment that gains USD 2.40-2.85 per day per day and this investment holds USD 111 +/- at the moment.

Suppose i get a RSP, how should i split the remaining 50%?
 
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littleredboy

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Call their CS hotline and ask is best. My agent helped me facilitate it. I completed exactly 3 years of my Pru policy, BI says get back half and also confirmed by hotline.
 

flowerpalms

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So after you terminate your Pru policy, did you get other policies? You should still have the medishield and rider right

I mean after you terminate the life plan, you change to DII and TPD?

Call their CS hotline and ask is best. My agent helped me facilitate it. I completed exactly 3 years of my Pru policy, BI says get back half and also confirmed by hotline.
 
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