Is it really over for Intel®?

[alauz]

Intel getting Singaporean CEO you think it'd turn things around for them? I'm excited to know what will happen to Intel now!

 

[kimsix]

Intel getting Singaporean CEO you think it'd turn things around for them? I'm excited to know what will happen to Intel now!

Should have stuck with Pat, what this new guy bring got different meh? He is not singaporean, malaysian studied here and emigrated to usa, now is american boomer

 

[kimsix]

What is this USB-C-C cable you speak of? I would like to have the mora running independent of my PC but thats the Active controller which isn't available yet, so I need the passive one that connects to motherboard headers.

Are the tube fittings the correct ones, last time I did watercooling was Intel Core i9 7900X and had a friend select the tubing/fitting for me.

I did see Alphacool offer 5080 waterblock for Zotac cards but it seems it voids the warranty and I'm definitely not keeping the card when next gen releases.

Alphacool also got extenal rad 1260 super nova, is budgeter option to try benefits of external

yes void warranty, can message techdynamic to confirm. Tiagong asus new gpu can disassemble without lose warranty, but not sure asus sg will follow, can shun biang msg asus and let us know

actually you can try removing the gskill heatsink and have bare pcb cooling, may lower temps more

 

[matique]

What is this USB-C-C cable you speak of? I would like to have the mora running independent of my PC but thats the Active controller which isn't available yet, so I need the passive one that connects to motherboard headers.

Are the tube fittings the correct ones, last time I did watercooling was Intel Core i9 7900X and had a friend select the tubing/fitting for me.

I did see Alphacool offer 5080 waterblock for Zotac cards but it seems it voids the warranty and I'm definitely not keeping the card when next gen releases.

Oh i thought you need a usb c cable to control the pump/fans but i didn't realise the mora link is enough. Sorry, not up to date with the new IV versions haha. I just use an aquacomputer octo to control my fans.

And yes, the tube is 16/10, fittings are 16/10, and the cpc doesn't use compression fittings, it just uses a metal collar i think to clamp down the hose onto the disconnect couplers.

For waterblocking, at least for local cards, it seems like the policy now is that it will void your warranty. But generally if you put back the card together and send it in for servicing, it's fine, unless they are very picky about the stickers.

 

[fkchon]

For waterblocking, at least for local cards, it seems like the policy now is that it will void your warranty. But generally if you put back the card together and send it in for servicing, it's fine, unless they are very picky about the stickers.

So its better that I just get the Gigabyte cards thats already waterblocked?

Anyway I ordered these should be coming in this week or next, if its still not good enough then I'll have to get the Mora. It's no fun to get high end memory and not OC them.

 

[elmariachi]

So its better that I just get the Gigabyte cards thats already waterblocked?

Anyway I ordered these should be coming in this week or next, if its still not good enough then I'll have to get the Mora. It's no fun to get high end memory and not OC them.

The Gigabyte Waterforce 5090 cards have liquid metal applied to them if I'm not wrong. So when that dries up, it's going to be a question mark if opening up the block will void warranty. Something you should take note of. Also, the stupid leak detection sensor on the card is quite wonky since 3000 series. Not sure if they fixed it but it will throw an error saying there is a leak when there isn't. Also, earlier generation of cards had alot of corrosion issues but may be fixed for recent cards.

https://www.overclock.net/threads/a...rce-cards-are-aluminum-nickel-plated.1796556/

 

[fkchon]

actually you can try removing the gskill heatsink and have bare pcb cooling, may lower temps more

whats the modern way of removing ddr5 heatsink now?

I have a big bottle of these at home and some container I can use to submerge the memory overnight
https://www.medicdrugstore.com/shop...-isopropyl-alcohol-70-v-v-disinfectant-500ml/

 

[Encrypted11]

Should have stuck with Pat, what this new guy bring got different meh? He is not singaporean, malaysian studied here and emigrated to usa, now is american boomer

He will be claiming the credit of Pat's work likely for the next 2 years at least for what Pat has done with his turnaround plan.

 

[matique]

So its better that I just get the Gigabyte cards thats already waterblocked?

Anyway I ordered these should be coming in this week or next, if its still not good enough then I'll have to get the Mora. It's no fun to get high end memory and not OC them.

I would say for just a cpu/ram block you can definitely get away with just two 360 rads and be fine with it. You just need to keep coolant around 35-40c and your temps will be fine. For ram block, I used the ones from iceman, the older non flow through version. Keeps my ram within 2-4c of coolant temp.

whats the modern way of removing ddr5 heatsink now?

I have a big bottle of these at home and some container I can use to submerge the memory overnight
https://www.medicdrugstore.com/shop...-isopropyl-alcohol-70-v-v-disinfectant-500ml/

Yeah you can also soak it in lighter fluid, it works faster than isopropyl. I just used the old method of using an airgun and prying slowly with a guitar pick.

Generally, if you are too wary about GPU warranty, I would suggest not to block it at all. When you watercool, always assume the worst scenario; i.e. user error leading to total system loss. Once you are okay with the potential loss, then you can comfortably watercool.

For local warranty, you can pry off the tamper sticker slowly with a heatgun I guess, and you can reassemble it back for rma along with the sticker (if it has it). This is just for bureaucracy issues tbh, because if you did damage the card yourself, it would be quite evident. For example, die cracking due to too much pressure exerted, scratch marks on pcb due to you placing the screw wrongly, or water damage on components due to coolant leak leading to corrosion. Such damage can be seen by the company.

What i'm saying is, no point of replacing sticker if you damaged the card yourself, it's only useful to place back if the card died by itself due to no fault of your own. Generally, cards that are most likely to die will present issues within the first month of owning it. Long term card issues would be vram degradation, but for that one it's up to your own luck. Touch wood, I've been lucky so far.

 

[Phen8210]

Should have stuck with Pat, what this new guy bring got different meh? He is not singaporean, malaysian studied here and emigrated to usa, now is american boomer

This guy is chinese, just like AMD and Nvidia..

 

[ragnarok95]

Intel finally see the light, that to lead a tech gaint... you need to be a chinese.

 

[fkchon]

I watched TechTechPotato, Lip seems to be a well connected person in the industry and is well qualified to take the job and it would appear he knows how to do acquisitions and executing plans which is what Intel board wants I guess.

Sucks for Pat, all his credit will be taken over by Lip. But then again I remember Pat is a bit of loud mouth and soured TSMC deal, maybe thats why Lip is better candidate.

 

[Phen8210]

They must have saw my post back then

 

[Encrypted11]

Fab guy
MBA guy
Chip guy
EDA guy

But board is has largely been the same reps for the past decade. Evil board wants to see foundry numbers go up in 12mth FY style and sees EDA guy as the messiah to IFS

Will he back the Oregon excel spreadsheet fellows or unlock good products out of IP blocks at Intel collecting dust at Israel design center with uncertainty in the middle east. He may be too much of an outsider (insider Pat) to know the Haifa lab is the best.

Usually the design win between labs are in pairs, ARL/MTL Oregon. LNL/PTL Israel. Pat had to cave in to Oregon when he was back.

https://en.globes.co.il/en/article-israeli-from-start-to-finish-intel-unveils-lunar-lake-1001488404

Haifa: ADL, RPL, SNB, IVB, TGL, ICL Conroe etc
Oregon: Haswell, Broadwell, MTL, ARL

 

[kimsix]

whats the modern way of removing ddr5 heatsink now?

I have a big bottle of these at home and some container I can use to submerge the memory overnight
https://www.medicdrugstore.com/shop...-isopropyl-alcohol-70-v-v-disinfectant-500ml/

tiagong is paint thiner. for single rank ddr5 is harder, make sure to work on the empty pcb side because that side using adhesive tape. the memory side with pads should easily come off.

can follow these user experience and try the kimdoole heatsink, got good feedback on air, it has full coverage of memory chip. some stock heatsink dont even cover fully like my teamgroup, can see one side, parts of ram chips exposed.

https://www.overclock.net/posts/29280234/
https://www.overclock.net/posts/29272750/
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...RagzXH0x&utparam-url=scene:search|query_from:

mora is expensive but also need a lot of planning and monitoring time
so can try bare ram chips -> bigger fan -> kimdoole -> then mora

see which steps enough for you to stop.

 

[fkchon]

tiagong is paint thiner. for single rank ddr5 is harder, make sure to work on the empty pcb side because that side using adhesive tape. the memory side with pads should easily come off.

can follow these user experience and try the kimdoole heatsink, got good feedback on air, it has full coverage of memory chip. some stock heatsink dont even cover fully like my teamgroup, can see one side, parts of ram chips exposed.

mora is expensive but also need a lot of planning and monitoring time
so can try bare ram chips -> bigger fan -> kimdoole -> then mora

see which steps enough for you to stop.

hmm don't have paint thinner at home can just use 70% alcohol or should I just order paint thinner

ya I will try bigger fan first then ram naked, not sure if I'll get kimdoole if I'm getting something might as well get best

So far running XMP settings temps top out at 51 which is still decent

I really don't like the temperature variance between the DIMMs on the case

DIMM0 is starved from good airflow, DIMM1 eats hot air from 5080 what to do?

 

[elmariachi]

hmm don't have paint thinner at home can just use 70% alcohol or should I just order paint thinner

ya I will try bigger fan first then ram naked, not sure if I'll get kimdoole if I'm getting something might as well get best

So far running XMP settings temps top out at 51 which is still decent

I really don't like the temperature variance between the DIMMs on the case

DIMM0 is starved from good airflow, DIMM1 eats hot air from 5080 what to do?

Nice clocks.
If you're not having errors, I guess you're fine.
Don't increase TREFI further as you'll bound to have errors. It's a temperature sensitive parameter. How are your DIMMs cooled now?

I'm using a Corsair Vengeance cooler with BITSPOWER Heatsinks. Enough to cool down up to 1.6V under 50 degrees. I'm only at 40 degrees after 3 cycles of TM5 1usmus at 1.55V for my 8600C38.

 

[fkchon]

Nice clocks.
If you're not having errors, I guess you're fine.
Don't increase TREFI further as you'll bound to have errors. It's a temperature sensitive parameter. How are your DIMMs cooled now?

I'm using a Corsair Vengeance cooler with BITSPOWER Heatsinks. Enough to cool down up to 1.6V under 50 degrees. I'm only at 40 degrees after 3 cycles of TM5 1usmus at 1.55V for my 8600C38.

these are the XMP clocks , when I got the build setup first day I did 9200C42 (open bench but wasn't stable)

right now I have some of these jonsbo memory cooler, the QA isn't very good so its not on the DIMMs directly, they're running 4000rpm and I can't hear them

 

[elmariachi]

these are the XMP clocks , when I got the build setup first day I did 9200C42 (open bench but wasn't stable)

right now I have some of these jonsbo memory cooler, the QA isn't very good so its not on the DIMMs directly, they're running 4000rpm and I can't hear them

I'd definitely tear down and use better heatsinks. I have the BITSPOWER ones and they are very good. I have a guide on the thickness of the thermal pads required if you want to go down that route. Here it is:

https://www.overclock.net/posts/29097475/

I like the BITSPOWER ones because so far they've worked very well for me. I also have the option to watercool them since mine came with the waterblock together with the kit but I didn't find a point in doing so since my CPU has the SA bug so I can't run past 8600 without increasing my SA voltage past 1.23V.

 

[matique]

hmm don't have paint thinner at home can just use 70% alcohol or should I just order paint thinner

ya I will try bigger fan first then ram naked, not sure if I'll get kimdoole if I'm getting something might as well get best

So far running XMP settings temps top out at 51 which is still decent

I really don't like the temperature variance between the DIMMs on the case

DIMM0 is starved from good airflow, DIMM1 eats hot air from 5080 what to do?

If you really are concerned about ram temps, just block the ram it will run around 2-3c above coolant under full load which is around 5-7w.