Gundam Modeling Official thread - Part 5

[wilfredgod]

,is it some parts frosted??? or intended effect???

should keep the LED on it what...... my 2 cents

haha trying to make some parts like those rough plastic material! thru naked eye looks much nicer!

for the LED not very bright and he wire i gotten too thick! not my liking!

 

[aucheukyan]

haha trying to make some parts like those rough plastic material! thru naked eye looks much nicer!

for the LED not very bright and he wire i gotten too thick! not my liking!

oo casted effects....... nice nice

was wondering why the 'frosting' are for only certain parts and so even

 

[tanyieern]

Just back from HAW and stargek. Awesome display of kits at HAW and the people there were awesome! Taught me some new stuff and gave me some tips Will definitely be back!

 

[josheppaul]

This is a continuation thread, the old thread is here

I am looking for some cool vintage toys before, but after seen that toys I have decided to buy some of them. So would you like to sell me?

 

[aucheukyan]

I am looking for some cool vintage toys before, but after seen that toys I have decided to buy some of them. So would you like to sell me?

wrong thread bro...... this is plastic model making thread.......

i suggest here

 

[tanyieern]

Hey, I have some questions:
Why wash the parts in warm soapy water?
How to sand parts around edges?
Do i REALLY have to use putty/ superglue/ cement to glue the parts before removing seam lines?

Thanks in advance.

 

[theclerksays]

Hey, I have some questions:
Why wash the parts in warm soapy water?
for me I soak the parts in detergent water and use a toothbrush brush to scrub
How to sand parts around edges?
u mean nub marks? use 400 grit sandpaper followed by 600 grit, then 1000 grit sandpaper
Do i REALLY have to use putty/ superglue/ cement to glue the parts before removing seam lines?
If you can find a way to fuse 2 parts together without using the above, then use whichever way you want.
To glue the parts together, use tamiya extra thin cement (green cap). Sometimes after you glue the parts together and sand down, there will be uneven areas or holes, this is when u use the putty to fill in the gaps.

my inputs in orange.

 

[tanyieern]

Hey, I have some questions:
Why wash the parts in warm soapy water?
for me I soak the parts in detergent water and use a toothbrush brush to scrub
How to sand parts around edges?
u mean nub marks? use 400 grit sandpaper followed by 600 grit, then 1000 grit sandpaper
Do i REALLY have to use putty/ superglue/ cement to glue the parts before removing seam lines?
If you can find a way to fuse 2 parts together without using the above, then use whichever way you want.
To glue the parts together, use tamiya extra thin cement (green cap). Sometimes after you glue the parts together and sand down, there will be uneven areas or holes, this is when u use the putty to fill in the gaps.

my inputs in orange.

thanks for the answers, but it doesn't answer any of my questions.

Why wash the parts in warm soapy water?
Why do you need to wash the parts? Why scrub it?

How to sand parts around the edges?
Trying to sand the whole part to prepare for paint. When i sand it, it would be more "blunt". Is there a proper way of sanding? I do not refer to nubs.

Do i REALLY have to use putty/ superglue/ cement to glue the parts before removing seam lines?
looking through tutorials, all of them require you to cement/glue the 2 parts together before removing seam lines. Is there a way to remove seam lines without gluing parts together?

My reasoning in orange. Thanks for your answers anyways.

 

[theclerksays]

thanks for the answers, but it doesn't answer any of my questions.

Why wash the parts in warm soapy water?
Why do you need to wash the parts? Why scrub it?

when the plastic is molded from the machine, there needs to be a molding agent, some kind of oil, to prevent the plastic from sticking to the metal molds. That layer of oil might prevent your paint (especially acrylics) from sticking onto the part. this is why you wash the parts, to remove the oily molding agent.
How to sand parts around the edges?
Trying to sand the whole part to prepare for paint, there will be edges of the parts. When i sand it, it would be more "blunt". Is there a proper way of sanding? I do not refer to nubs.
depending on the edge, you might want to glue sandpaper to ice cream sticks if you intend to do flat surfaces. if the part is becoming blunt too fast, use higher grit sandpaper. not exactly sure what you're asking.

Do i REALLY have to use putty/ superglue/ cement to glue the parts before removing seam lines?
looking through tutorials, all of them require you to cement/glue the 2 parts together before removing seam lines. Is there a way to remove seam lines without gluing parts together?

Don't think its possible

my answers in black.

 

[Grumpyoldman]

Why wash the parts in warm soapy water?
Why do you need to wash the parts? Why scrub it?

Soap and scrubbing gets rid of mould release agents on the plastic. But newer kits usually dont need it. If it doesn't feel "oily", should be fine w/o washing. If you're using resin parts, then die die must wash.

How to sand parts around the edges?
Trying to sand the whole part to prepare for paint. When i sand it, it would be more "blunt". Is there a proper way of sanding? I do not refer to nubs.

Sand in ONE direction (not to-and-fro), so that your "swipe" will go over the edge. And do it carefully.

Do i REALLY have to use putty/ superglue/ cement to glue the parts before removing seam lines?
looking through tutorials, all of them require you to cement/glue the 2 parts together before removing seam lines. Is there a way to remove seam lines without gluing parts together?

Nope. Unless you stick a piece of plastic over it as an additional layer to "hide" the seams. Otherwise, glue and sand. Newer kits tend to have very little seam lines. If you can live with it, feel free to ignore the seam lines (unless it's the blardy-in-your-face-type)

 

[tissuepaper]

am looking for different results of silver. anyone have one to share? tia.

 

[tanyieern]

Grumpyoldman and theclerksays, thanks for your input. Answered all my questions

 

[aucheukyan]

Why wash the parts in warm soapy water?
Why do you need to wash the parts? Why scrub it?

Soap and scrubbing gets rid of mould release agents on the plastic. But newer kits usually dont need it. If it doesn't feel "oily", should be fine w/o washing. If you're using resin parts, then die die must wash.

How to sand parts around the edges?
Trying to sand the whole part to prepare for paint. When i sand it, it would be more "blunt". Is there a proper way of sanding? I do not refer to nubs.

Sand in ONE direction (not to-and-fro), so that your "swipe" will go over the edge. And do it carefully.

Do i REALLY have to use putty/ superglue/ cement to glue the parts before removing seam lines?
looking through tutorials, all of them require you to cement/glue the 2 parts together before removing seam lines. Is there a way to remove seam lines without gluing parts together?

Nope. Unless you stick a piece of plastic over it as an additional layer to "hide" the seams. Otherwise, glue and sand. Newer kits tend to have very little seam lines. If you can live with it, feel free to ignore the seam lines (unless it's the blardy-in-your-face-type)

just to add on, cement is to seal the gap between the 2 parts so that putty applied to it will not seep through the gap. The effect is damn obvious for those shrink when dried putty like basic putty, but much not for non shrinking puttys like epoxy or polyester.........

am looking for different results of silver. anyone have one to share? tia.

What kind of results you prefer?? muted? super gloss?

 

[tanyieern]

just to add on, cement is to seal the gap between the 2 parts so that putty applied to it will not seep through the gap. The effect is damn obvious for those shrink when dried putty like basic putty, but much not for non shrinking puttys like epoxy or polyester.........

Im not familiar with putty. Why use epoxy putty to fill up holes?

Another thing, how do you guys finish a HG kit in 4hours??? It took me 2hours to finish extracting 1 runner, much less prime and paint.

And spray paint is so goddamn expensive. Gundam Markers too.

 

[evilerniex]

Im not familiar with putty. Why use epoxy putty to fill up holes?

Another thing, how do you guys finish a HG kit in 4hours??? It took me 2hours to finish extracting 1 runner, much less prime and paint.

And spray paint is so goddamn expensive. Gundam Markers too.

most of the time, u will not need to use putty to clear seamlines. cement alone is enough. the cement will melt the plastic slightly, and when u press the parts together, a bit of the melted plastic will ooze out of the seamline, covering it. then u just need to sand it down when the part is dry.

 

[tissuepaper]

just to add on, cement is to seal the gap between the 2 parts so that putty applied to it will not seep through the gap. The effect is damn obvious for those shrink when dried putty like basic putty, but much not for non shrinking puttys like epoxy or polyester.........



What kind of results you prefer?? muted? super gloss?

super gloss.
or anything i can get, want to see the difference of result from the different type/brand of silver.

 

[hirako-shin]

Rejoice,Gundam Fans!

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fnq-1_rAlgk/T9GVOkzXAuI/AAAAAAACpyQ/-gskCF0jFzg/s1600/123.jpg

 

[josheppaul]

wrong thread bro...... this is plastic model making thread.......

i suggest here

Thanks a lot Aucheukyan, I will surely follow that link which has been mentioned by you in your post. If I will get the vintage toys there, then I will surely inform you.

 

[aucheukyan]

Thanks a lot Aucheukyan, I will surely follow that link which has been mentioned by you in your post. If I will get the vintage toys there, then I will surely inform you.

no need to inform me..... lolx

 

[Blusttoy]

@blusttoy i know you use the krylon uv acrylic coat, i also bought one today. The gloss one, but it doesnt seems like its glossy enough for a wash....... can assist???

Hey sorry for the delay in reply, but I also face your problem and ended up using Mr. Hobby Mr. Super Clear Glossy for wash and if I need gloss final coat, then I use the Krylon. Although since their gloss is not that glossy, I use it to "fix" frosting too.

And I think I have to open up the Psycho again for gluing after deciding to remove it's transformation gimmicks, too many seamlines. And then repaint some stuff, probably get brown lining as well.

The RG was tremendous fun though [I mean really fun, haven't had that sensation in quite a bit], although I was afraid of breaking my pistons despite seeing that Sliver has managed to separate his. Found it easier to pull apart after using the frame motion instead. Definitely will get the Titans version.

I read that you guys prefer to use the super thin cement, is it better than regular one? I tried both but the super thin doesn't really have that impact as the regular one, although the regular was definitely messier.

Should I apply it like applying those furniture glue, on both side and wait for it to dry/gel a little before pressing the parts together?