[Recommend] Good Mechanical Keyboard

YouHeypiCanLiao

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Are you looking to DIY or you just want a wireless pre-build that can mod in the future, like changing keycaps and switches?
I'm considering DIY if it's cheaper or more customized route ( I don't want to solder , used )
Or buy off the shelf and change the keycaps based on my preference.
 

FroztSpectre

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the RK61 is diff to beat and also we have Keychron too for the slight ex part.
How much do I need to spend for a decent wireless 60% PBT alu base? Can give me some pointers? Thanks

or should I get RK61 and change the keycaps?
Rk61 is not hot swappable ah. Means if u want to change switch, you need to desolder and resolder.
Also, means you'll have difficulty modding the stabilizers as well.

No experience with 60%~ keyboards =[
 

ragnarok95

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The cheapest hot swap that is reasonable priced and okie is from keychron. Just get a Keychron.
 

jonnyboy91

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I'm considering DIY if it's cheaper or more customized route ( I don't want to solder , used )
Or buy off the shelf and change the keycaps based on my preference.
The cheapest 60%ish DIY kit (hotswappable) alone is roughly $80-$100 not including switches and keycaps. It depends if you want to go down this route.

If not, for your requirement that you stated the Keychron K6 (hotswap ver.) will suit your needs better.
You can replaced the switches, keycaps and better stabilizers in the future too.
 
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YouHeypiCanLiao

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Rk61 is not hot swappable ah. Means if u want to change switch, you need to desolder and resolder.
Also, means you'll have difficulty modding the stabilizers as well.

No experience with 60%~ keyboards =[
paiseh.. what I mean for rk61 is change the keycaps..
 

YouHeypiCanLiao

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The cheapest 60%ish DIY kit (hotswappable) alone is roughly $80-$100 not including switches and keycaps. It depends if you want to go down this route.

If not, for your requirement that you stated the Keychron K6 (hotswap ver.) will suit your needs better.
You can replaced the switches, keycaps and better stabilizers in the future too.
The RKG68 is hotswappable
 

FroztSpectre

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Oh, i recall seeing people reviewing GMMK Compact on YouTube also.
Barebone kit (no switch no keycaps) is like US$59.99 (click customize and unselect all the switches and keycaps)

Lazada selling barebone kit for $99SGD.
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Another one is NK65 Entry Edition, slightly more premium @ US$95 (barebone kit) before shipping.
More colors to choose from also. Sadly all sold out from their website.
More Premium NK65 is their v2 Alumnium Edition.
Starting from US$195 (Barebone kit) before shipping lol. Took a quick look, and their Silver/E-White and Midnight Purple colors still available.

Edited:
Some additional videos
 

YouHeypiCanLiao

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@FroztSpectre
So if get the GMMK Compact @$99
still need to add PBT key caps + brown switch right?

then settle right? Is it alu base?

If really too ex, might as well just get Keychron LOL
 

FroztSpectre

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@FroztSpectre
So if get the GMMK Compact @$99
still need to add PBT key caps + brown switch right?

then settle right? Is it alu base?

If really too ex, might as well just get Keychron LOL
Nah, i don't think GMMK Compact is full aluminum. Top plate should be aluminum, base should be plastic.
And ya, still need add your own keycaps and switches for barebones kit.
 

purpleberry

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already updated to latest drivers. can't seem to get hold of the manufacturer's driver. mine is the oem 'v5.0' one from shopee. i have ordered another one with better reviews to try.

edit: seemed to have solved the issue by uninstalling the windows driver and installing the CSR driver provided by a seller on shopee. https://shopee.sg/-SG-LOCAL-SELLER-...-for-Laptop-and-Desktop-i.35062141.8915269840.
also, the keyboard has to be added using the CSR app instead of the windows bluetooth settings page.
does not work after restart.

2nd edit: bought another llano USB Bluetooth 5.0 which works. this has a realtek chip. a broadcom one should also be ok.
Which driver did you install?
 

jonnyboy91

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@FroztSpectre
So if get the GMMK Compact @$99
still need to add PBT key caps + brown switch right?

then settle right? Is it alu base?

If really too ex, might as well just get Keychron LOL
Used to own the GMMK TKL version, top plate is aluminum and base is plastic.
Good board to start if you want to customize it further but downside is PCB only support 3 pin switch.
You are looking at between $150-$200 if add keycaps and switches.

If that is not within your budget then the Keychron will be better for you.
When you swap to PBT keycaps for Keychron price will be closer to $150.
 

YouHeypiCanLiao

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Used to own the GMMK TKL version, top plate is aluminum and base is plastic.
Good board to start if you want to customize it further but downside is PCB only support 3 pin switch.
You are looking at between $150-$200 if add keycaps and switches.

If that is not within your budget then the Keychron will be better for you.
When you swap to PBT keycaps for Keychron price will be closer to $150.
I'm looking at K6 RGB ALU HOTSWAP then, it's only $125. I use till it's shiny then change ain't too late right.
Usually at this price range is the whole thing ALU. Is this key layout easy to get PBT keys? THanks
 

jonnyboy91

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I'm looking at K6 RGB ALU HOTSWAP then, it's only $125. I use till it's shiny then change ain't too late right.
Usually at this price range is the whole thing ALU. Is this key layout easy to get PBT keys? THanks
To be fair, the K6 Alu is not full alu per say. The base kit is still plastic with the alu frame attached to the sides of the case. I have the K6 Alu myself and have disassembled to mod it.

Layout is easy to get for keycaps, just need to make sure the keycaps set includes 1.75U Shift (for right shift) and 3 1U keys (for the 3 keys right of spacebar) as those keys are not common in a full size keyboard.
 

jonnyboy91

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would yall reccomend keychron or akko? assuming no modding and using as prebuilt.
TBH there is no difference if you are using it stock without any modding, you should consider the below for your preference.

Akko - advantage: comes with PBT keycaps, disadvantage: non-hot swap, switches are soldered
Keychron - advantage: have hot swap option, disadvantage: comes with ABS keycaps
 

YouHeypiCanLiao

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The cheapest 60%ish DIY kit (hotswappable) alone is roughly $80-$100 not including switches and keycaps. It depends if you want to go down this route.
If not, for your requirement that you stated the Keychron K6 (hotswap ver.) will suit your needs better.
You can replaced the switches, keycaps and better stabilizers in the future too.

then why some ppl really custom all the way ah? it's the board that is ex or ?


Sent from EDMWER app!
 

Lastwishes

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then why some ppl really custom all the way ah? it's the board that is ex or ?

Customs are usually for the following reasons:
1. Range of options for the switches; other than Cherry, there's options like Outemus, Gateron, Kailh, along with the boutique stuff like Zealios, Input Club, Novelkeys and many others.
2. Programmability - don't know much if production boards these days include this feature, but one of the nice things about DIY in the past was that you could customise your keymaps and also key layers for different purposes (e.g. for photoshop, gaming etc).
3. Specific cases, and maybe specialty plate mounting design - Usually all metal, could be small-shop machined and anodised for the really high end stuff. Some cases tout gasket mounting of the plate (over regular screw mounting) as a premium feature.

1 and 2 usually is available in even in entry level DIY.

3 is usually where the big money goes, for the keyboard itself.

Keycaps is the other black hole for wallets, but kinda unrelated since it's mostly aesthetic related once you get past a certain quality threshold.

Edit: Also, to add that even for entry level DIY, if properly set up (with sound dampening foams, lubed switches, modded stabilisers), can feel much more 'quality' than off the shelf boards.

I'm actually not a big fan of hotswaps. It's good for a tester board for trying different switches, longevity will be an issue down the road. If you don't intend to be pulling out switches and switching new ones in regularly, no reason not to solder it in instead.
 
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