The Watch Thread - Part 13

[TeenTitan01]

First Impressions and Initial Review of the 2255.80 Omega Seamaster Professional "Electric Blue"

unless properly, carefully or professionally shot, photos of the omega smp "electric blue" sometimes do not do it any justice. neither can they capture the breathtaking shades of blues that you can marvel at when you handle the watch in the metal irl, especially under bright daylight.

2 things make this watch pop: its mirror-finished bezel and its eye-candy blue dial.

the "electric blue" gives off a substantial amount of breitling vibes simply because its mirror-finished bezel is just *so* shiny! so much so that, if you stare at it hard enough, you can scratch it! yeah, it's that delicate and fussy! definitely not your regular tool watch. but excellent as a dress/weekend/party/chill-out/look-at-me watch.

the bling factor of the mirror-finished bezel is catalytically amplified by the gorgeous iridescent blue dial that dances and mesmerizes you as you tilt the watch towards/away from you under good outdoor lighting. this blingy watch feels right at home in any situation that welcomes bling, especially in the outdoors during sunny weather.

close examination of its remarkable dial under a loupe reveals a charcoal-coloured embossed wave pattern laid over an iridescent, sunburst, deep rich, bright royal blue dial. the famous omega wave pattern stops short of the minute markers at the chapter ring, creating an illusion of a dial with a darker shade of royal blue encircled by a brighter ring of royal blue around the chapter ring.

the "electric blue" would've benefited from better dial symmetry had it used a date wheel in the same shade of colour as its dial, like its brother 2254.50. nevertheless, that's a minor quibble.

what makes you fall in love with omega's cult favourite among dive watch lovers, the 2254.50, are all there in the "electric blue" as well:
- the iconic and visually interesting (when viewed up close) yet subtle omega wave pattern on the watch dial,
- the large triangle at 12 o'clock and trapezoidal/coffin hour markers that harken back to its roots as a mil-spec seamaster 300,
- generous layers of thick, heavy superluminova glowing like a torch in the dark that can go toe-to-toe with any seiko monster,
- the bold, sword hands with good amounts of lume,
- the substantial lume plots that make up the hour markers, making it real easy to read the time in any lighting condition,
- 28,800 vph high-beat omega-enhanced 1120 movement, based on the chronometer-grade ETA 2892-A2,
- its svelte 11.5mm thick case despite boasting a 300m water resistance,
- wave/hippocampus-embossed case back that provides better grip to prevent your watch from sloshing around your wrist,
- SELs and solid links speedy-style bracelet and push-button release "best-clasp-in-its-class" until rolex finally upped their game recently with the glidelock clasp for their submariners,
- diver's extension on its bracelet,
- a HEV,
- printed dial, no applied logo, no applied hour markers... for that old-school flavour.



i'm glad the "electric blue" isn't as popular. otherwise, i'd to pay more for mine, roflmao. and given its relative rarity, and mine being a full box set in a near-mint condition means i scored a keeper... until such time when a generous & keen collector can convince me to part with it in future.

 

[TeenTitan01]

Hi,

I recently saw a sale ad of a new watch on the website of a pretty reputable 2nd hand watch shop. Based on initial query on the date of purchase, the response was that it will be based on my actual date of purchase from the shop. But my question is, the shop must have bought the watch from somewhere in the first place right, even though it's a new watch? So why wasn't there a date of purchase on the cert? Sorry, I'm quite a noob here as I've never purchased from a 2nd hand shop before so may sound a bit kiasi prior to making the purchase. Does this sound legit? Can anyone help me out here?

Thanx so much.

if your watch in question is bnib (brand new in box) / never worn / stickers still on, and still a current model in the latest catalog, then a dated warranty certificate/card is necessary should you need to present it to its service center to claim any warranty repair/service.

any watch from a 2nd hand shop or dealer is technically 2nd hand cos it's been purchased from its first owner, no matter if it's unworn or how many clear stickers are left on the watch.

if your watch is a current rolex with a magnetic stripe embedded guarantee/chronometer plastic card, that card would've been swiped at the point of purchase at its authorized dealer to record its sales and start the countdown to its warranty expiry, currently 5 yrs for all brand new rolex from date of initial purchase from a rolex AD.

if you're paranoid, prefers maximum assurance and wants zero risk experience when purchasing a high-ticket luxury watch like a rolex, paying the premium+gst at a rolex AD guarantees that you're getting a genuine, brand-new rolex (and also assorted rolex gifts & premiums like their golf umbrella). likewise for other luxury watch brands.

hope that helps.

 

[rachdanon]

Hi,

I recently saw a sale ad of a new watch on the website of a pretty reputable 2nd hand watch shop. Based on initial query on the date of purchase, the response was that it will be based on my actual date of purchase from the shop. But my question is, the shop must have bought the watch from somewhere in the first place right, even though it's a new watch? So why wasn't there a date of purchase on the cert? Sorry, I'm quite a noob here as I've never purchased from a 2nd hand shop before so may sound a bit kiasi prior to making the purchase. Does this sound legit? Can anyone help me out here?

Thanx so much.

My understanding is that for NEW watch and date of purchase being ACTUAL date you bought can only be from an AD or Boutique, where you will have the shop stamp on it. If this watch shop is not, which apparently it isn't as no Boutiques/ADs sell 2nd hand stuff, then even if they put the date, I am not sure if the warranty is useful?

My experience is as you say, that "first place" where the 2nd hand shop bought from should have been an AD (I dont think Boutique will let this happen) with its stamp on it and dated already.

Its shady in my opinion.....

Extra reading : My theory on how genuine products end up in the grey market is that the AD will record the sale (of products they have difficulty pushing out to meet their quotas) on their accounts as sold at XXX date (hence the warranty already has a date) at YYY price which is higher than the price they actually released to the grey seller. Thely will stamp on it. So in an audit or if the final owner brings his watch for service, everything looks in order.

 

[Henabi]

thanks, fitzai bro DXMachina! trying my best to curate a decent, respectable & value-retaining collection with the limited funds i have.

not keen on brand new watches at the ADs cos i'm reluctant to take the depreciation hit as the 1st owner. i can't afford to play vintage, so focus on watches that's been oop for 10 yrs - old enough to be eclipsed by newer models (and thus less sought after), yet not so scarce, vintage nor desirable enough to command high prices at the moment. i'll just wait another 20 yrs for them to "ripen/mature" into bona fide vintage and then (hopefully) harvest a decent return.

anyway, i tried on the non-ceramic bezel SD and sub date today. the thickness and heavier weight of the SD can be felt on wrist compared to the sub date. was quoted $8k+ for a D series SD with cert. haven't done any in-depth research on the subs and SD as yet. so is the price worth buying? also when did the SD bracelet stop featuring hollow center links? (iirc, SD all along feature SELs, right?)

Congrats on new watch!

 

[theblueark]

Check out werenbach AG. a kickstarter brand with ambitious ambition for watch. Every dial within the watch is a piece of a rocket directly cut out and imprinted. Sounds cool to own a piece of space as a form of watch.

P.S I bought a seiko presage SPR765J2 found it to look really pretty and classy. Figure my next watch will be a Swiss one soon since I jumped from typical DW and EDIFICE quartz to basic auto, Guess I will have a watch collection in the future when I am older like 25 years old...

Congrats on your purchase and starting your journey. You are really young, take your time

 

[AyuReady]

TT bro,

Starting another new trend?

3 omega on one hand to tell 4 time zones?

 

[rachdanon]

Came across this on sgwatchmall....beware fake. Price is a tell tale and there is no P series yet.

http://cdn.sgwatchmall.com/details....15710ST.OO.A002CA.01-Royal-Oak-Offshore-Diver

Actually there are many ways to tell which includes boxes, papers and minor details.

Apparently similar one was sent to Watchuwant :

 

[mpcdude]

thanks, fitzai bro DXMachina! trying my best to curate a decent, respectable & value-retaining collection with the limited funds i have.

not keen on brand new watches at the ADs cos i'm reluctant to take the depreciation hit as the 1st owner. i can't afford to play vintage, so focus on watches that's been oop for 10 yrs - old enough to be eclipsed by newer models (and thus less sought after), yet not so scarce, vintage nor desirable enough to command high prices at the moment. i'll just wait another 20 yrs for them to "ripen/mature" into bona fide vintage and then (hopefully) harvest a decent return.

anyway, i tried on the non-ceramic bezel SD and sub date today. the thickness and heavier weight of the SD can be felt on wrist compared to the sub date. was quoted $8k+ for a D series SD with cert. haven't done any in-depth research on the subs and SD as yet. so is the price worth buying? also when did the SD bracelet stop featuring hollow center links? (iirc, SD all along feature SELs, right?)

Much congratulations to you bro TT01!

Btw, I have a very minty M serial (which is the last few years of production, along with the V serial) SeaDweller with box and cert reserved for mid $7k, so I think you can get lower than 8k.

The 16600 SD is the first sports model to feature a SEL bracelet, but their links are hollow-centre links. I've tried it and it's actually not that bad. The weight is actually lesser than my SubC which makes it negligible.

Letting go of my SubC for the 16600.

 

[arc13]

Congrats on ur BP heritage 55
A safe queen I reckon?

I been lurking from time to time and Im quite the iwc fan. Just collected this 55mm monster today.

 

[delrosa81]

Thanks arc13! Maybe or maybe not. But most prob a safe queen. Cos too big to wear lol.

Congrats on ur BP heritage 55
A safe queen I reckon?

 

[arc13]

So it took a long time to reach ur hands, how much u paid for it

Thanks arc13! Maybe or maybe not. But most prob a safe queen. Cos too big to wear lol.

 

[delrosa81]

Waited almost a year I guess. Cant really remember too. Slightly under 23k.

So it took a long time to reach ur hands, how much u paid for it

 

[TeenTitan01]

TT bro,

Starting another new trend?

3 omega on one hand to tell 4 time zones?

let me see... my smp GMT great white can tell up to 3 timezones given its rotatable 24 hr scale outer bezel... plus one each on my 2254.50 and my electric blue smp... that makes a total of 5 timezones!

 

[MrSenG]

my limit is 3:
- 2254.50 black omega smp, 2538.20 white omega GMT, 2255.80 electric blue omega smp.
- 16610 black dial sub date, 16570 polar exp II, perhaps the 116622 cobalt blue YM if i want my rolex collection to match my omega trilogy (but then it's the wrong vintage/era... arrrrggghhh. ocd problems. )
- dreaming of a trilogy of pepsi, coke and black bezel GMT Master IIs.

Congratulations on the 'Electric Blue'!

I feel that a trilogy of GMT Masters would be awesome, especially as there are documented cases of astronauts bringing a Rolex GMT Master on the Apollo missions to the moon.

Picture credits to Jake's Rolex World (http://www.rolexmagazine.com/).

Spoiler

 

[yattokame]

Going for a walk. Been bedridden for too long. Gets dizzy when I stand. Need to get myself back in shape

 

[cyrenic]

Really a nice piece for the price, though I've seen far too many oil stained dials pop up in Carousell for comfort. Fingers crossed that it doesn't happen - some in the FB group call it "patina".

 

[TeenTitan01]

Much congratulations to you bro TT01!

Btw, I have a very minty M serial (which is the last few years of production, along with the V serial) SeaDweller with box and cert reserved for mid $7k, so I think you can get lower than 8k.

The 16600 SD is the first sports model to feature a SEL bracelet, but their links are hollow-centre links. I've tried it and it's actually not that bad. The weight is actually lesser than my SubC which makes it negligible.

Letting go of my SubC for the 16600.

thank you for the information and your valuable input, fitzai bro mpcdude!

very impressive for a young bro like you to advance swiftly in watch appreciation beyond merely "superior engineering" to classic tastes, proportions and aesthetics eg in your 16600 and white dial speedy!

i too had to overcome my initial prejudice against hollow centre links and stamped metal clasps of pre-AN series rolexes to appreciate their design language, proven sturdiness & reliability and reduced weight as a whole.

having tried on & felt the weight of the pre-C SD, i can only imagine how much heavier the ceramic SD is! that beast can function as a weapon if wrapped around the knuckles!

i'm likely moving away from the 14060m, for the simple reason that i now would love to pair my recently-acquired lug holes case, SELs & hollow centre links Y serial polar explorer II with a pre-C holes case, SEL & HCL sub-date/SD from the same period. unfortunately, the 14060m never had SELs. major, major bummer!

i remain conflicted on the pre-C sub-date vs the pre-C SD cos i appreciate divers with slimmer profiles like my svelte smps, even though i own thicker divers like the PADI turtle and orange monster.

heck, i now prefer how more comfortable my 40mm polar explorer II sits & feels on my wrist with its thinner profile, lighter weight with having HCLs and a more arresting/contrasty dial (on account of having thicker black borders around its hour markers and hands) than my slightly more substantial, thicker and heavier GMT great white with its solid links bracelet!

first world problems.

but my smp trilogy remains my firm favourite, too, having invested much time, effort and energy to track down and acquire all 3 full box sets in near mint condition. i may release them in the future if i receive a generous offer from a keen sword hands/wave dial smp collector. we'll see.

but atm, if i ever get a sub-date or SD, it'll have to be a full set P/K/Y serial cos i'm now a sucker for a lug holes case (for that vintage vibe and ease of popping out the bracelet from the watch head) with SELs/HCLs bracelet to match with my 40mm Y serial/SELs/HCLs polar explorer II. i know it's ocd. but what to do.

 

[mpcdude]

thank you for the information and your valuable input, fitzai bro mpcdude!

very impressive for a young bro like you to advance swiftly in watch appreciation beyond merely "superior engineering" to classic tastes, proportions and aesthetics eg in your 16600 and white dial speedy!

i too had to overcome my initial prejudice against hollow centre links and stamped metal clasps of pre-AN series rolexes to appreciate their design language, proven sturdiness & reliability and reduced weight as a whole.

having tried on & felt the weight of the pre-C SD, i can only imagine how much heavier the ceramic SD is! that beast can function as a weapon if wrapped around the knuckles!

i'm likely moving away from the 14060m, for the simple reason that i now would love to pair my recently-acquired lug holes case, SELs & hollow centre links Y serial polar explorer II with a pre-C holes case, SEL & HCL sub-date/SD from the same period. unfortunately, the 14060m never had SELs. major, major bummer!

i remain conflicted on the pre-C sub-date vs the pre-C SD cos i appreciate divers with slimmer profiles like my svelte smps, even though i own thicker divers like the PADI turtle and orange monster.

heck, i now prefer how more comfortable my 40mm polar explorer II sits & feels on my wrist with its thinner profile, lighter weight with having HCLs and a more arresting/contrasty dial (on account of having thicker black borders around its hour markers and hands) than my slightly more substantial, thicker and heavier GMT great white with its solid links bracelet!

first world problems.

but my smp trilogy remains my firm favourite, too, having invested much time, effort and energy to track down and acquire all 3 full box sets in near mint condition. i may release them in the future if i receive a generous offer from a keen sword hands/wave dial smp collector. we'll see.

but atm, if i ever get a sub-date or SD, it'll have to be a full set P/K/Y serial cos i'm now a sucker for a lug holes case (for that vintage vibe and ease of popping out the bracelet from the watch head) with SELs/HCLs bracelet to match with my 40mm Y serial/SELs/HCLs polar explorer II. i know it's ocd. but what to do.

Haha I totally understand and get your philosophy. Between the Pre-ceramic SubC and the SD, I'll get the SD no doubt. One of the best Rolex has ever made imo. A SD has a sort of a mystique of its own with the thicker crystal, HEV, no cyclops, its heft (which I like as it gives it a very solid and substantial feel on the wrist) and its interesting history. It feels pretty overengineered.

The side profile is actually pretty slim due to the middle case. It's only the caseback which makes it thick and some find it "top-heavy". I actually find that to be ok from my handling of it. Shall report back when I get my hands on the SD tmr!

 

[slow_mo]

Waiting for the threesome photo shoot!!!

 

[TeenTitan01]

Waiting for the threesome photo shoot!!!

please be patient, bro slow_mo! thank you!