The Watch Thread - Part 13

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slow_mo

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XcziCG8l.jpg

Black Monday

Sent from Huawei NEXUS 6P using GAGT

Magrette train... probably just a 2 carriage train... :s13:

 

flame2000

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My AP. My father's Titoni - he passed away many, many years ago, when I was just a teenager. Somehow, I have kept his watch with me all these years. Really something to cherish

My dad left me a Titoni as well when he passed away. Mine has a high beat 36000bph movement though.

P1010276.jpg
 

TeenTitan01

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I totally get what you mean. The ceramic bezel and the modern bracelet were major factors that swung the SD4k in my favour when I was contemplating between a pre-C SD & the SD4k. I still lust after the narrow lugs of the pre-C models though.. :(


Will help you keep a lookout TT01 bro :)

thanks bro DXMachina! :D
 
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Hoping to elicit more feedback and response as I'm considering a polar

A series box
vs
Z series box n paper

If both have around the same condition and diff is 1k+ abit more

Which one would u go after
Thank you guys
 

Donten

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Hoping to elicit more feedback and response as I'm considering a polar

A series box
vs
Z series box n paper

If both have around the same condition and diff is 1k+ abit more

Which one would u go after
Thank you guys

buy the one that is in better condition

edit: if possible check the lume. one of the bro here got mismatched lume for hands and dial.
 
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gaoxing84

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Hoping to elicit more feedback and response as I'm considering a polar

A series box
vs
Z series box n paper

If both have around the same condition and diff is 1k+ abit more

Which one would u go after
Thank you guys

A series i think is SWISS dial
Z series i think is SWISS MADE dial

buy better cond one and check lume like what donten say.

if you want special, A series.
 

TeenTitan01

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Matching the dreary weather

7eq6A2v.jpg

i really like the mil-sub style bezel with full minute markings. they make the watch looks the business - cooler & more serious. more "balanced" too, as the "gaps" are filled-in. i believe this is what makes the skx007/009 and seiko turtles look attractive as well. too bad the pre-C SD don't come with it.

i appreciate the ceramic bezel and of course its best-in-class clasp in the new SD, though i prefer the proportions of the pre-C SD.

may i add that as chromalight becomes more common as newer rolexes get worn on-wrists, the charm and old skool vibes of green superluminova rolexes will be hotter than ever.

but alas, the ocd collector in me is insisting on a Y serial SD to pair up with my Y serial polar explorer II to form another pair of 黑白无常. :s22: :(
 
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Both condition equally good

A series is 1999, model is hollow end link without chapter ring Rolex engraving

Z series (2007), solid end links.

Both lume working nice
 

TeenTitan01

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buy the one that is in better condition

edit: if possible check the lume. one of the bro here got mismatched lume for hands and dial.

that's "patina" lah (according to gg facebook). :( :s13:

more likely the hands got lesser lume on them, so the light energy faded more. anyway, i'm not bothered in the least. :D
 

indigo22

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that's "patina" lah (according to gg facebook). :( :s13:

more likely the hands got lesser lume on them, so the light energy faded more. anyway, i'm not bothered in the least. :D

the more different the colors are, the more patina-ed it is? :s13:

if wanna sell GG watches, rly need use totally diff sales tactics le...

:s13:
 

gaoxing84

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the more different the colors are, the more patina-ed it is? :s13:

if wanna sell GG watches, rly need use totally diff sales tactics le...

:s13:

LOL. if the watch is defective in anyway, it's patina.
if the watch stops working, patina at its highest level.

LOL GG = joke
 

TeenTitan01

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Hoping to elicit more feedback and response as I'm considering a polar

A series box
vs
Z series box n paper

If both have around the same condition and diff is 1k+ abit more

Which one would u go after
Thank you guys

how much is the Z series b+p you're looking at, and how "complete" and "period authentic" is the package?

other things being equal, imho, b+p - ALWAYS! :D cos they'd ALWAYS command better prices and are readily snapped up.

A series if you're:
- (edited: A series has swapped to luminova lume). get pre-A if you're into more vintage tritium dial (but remember that it has a limited lifespan and will stop glowing; in return you get a nice, even cream patina when it ages - IF you're lucky)
- into lug holes case for that old skool vibes and ease of popping off the bracelet (if you're a strap *****)
- don't mind folded end links (where you get to enjoy the "rolex rattle").

Z series if you:
- are into the 3186 movement with parachrome hairspring (do note NOT all Z series have them. mine don't. but the 3185 has been around long enough to be a proven, reliable movement powering the explorer II and GMT master II for decades)
- hate lug holes
- love solid end links

or if you're like me who like BOTH lug holes case AND SELs - and prefer the practical functionality of superluminova lume, then ONLY the P, K or Y series will do. :D

as for condition, let me put it in perspective for you: sought after, beaten up vintage rolex sports model fetch higher prices with full provenance (ie. b+p). as an eg, just check out current market value of the 1655 explorer II.

a shiny, new 1655 with fresh hands, a fresh bezel, a new service dial, a new service crystal and polishing at rolex service centre WITHOUT b+p fetches MUCH LESS than an unpolished full set WITH b+p 1655 that's a little bit grimy, a little bit dirty, BUT untouched. being all original IS THE KEY.

unless yours is a safe queen (ie. you bought your polar exp II brand spanking new at the AD and threw it immediately into your safe with all stickers intact), it's unlikely to be in pristine condition when you actually get to wear & enjoy your watch.

when your polar explorer II reaches vintage status in 20 yrs time, it should age accordingly to reflect its status. being beaten up may even add to its charm and value. so when buying pre-owned, unless the watch looks like it's been obviously abused, with gritty winding crown action, the key condition is that the movement must remain buttery smooth in tip-top condition.
 
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A series is luminova I guess, don't think is tritium

I guess the major diff is the Rolex rehaut aka chapter ring, the papers and solid end links that is the major diff. Think the z series is 3185

And price Diff of 1k

U guys think the 1k top up worth it? Not intending to pass down and prolly will trade for nicer models in future. Hence wondering for secondary market those diff do worth the additional 1k between the two
 
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