My trip report to Vietnam. Just got back from 12 day trip, covering Hanoi -> Hue -> Hoi An -> Da Nang -> HCM
First day, flew from Singapore to HCM, then transferred to a Pacific Airlines flight to Hanoi. This took most of the morning. Picked up at Hanoi airport by the hotel's agent (we stayed with Rising Dragon in the Old Quarter). Spent the rest of the day exploring the Old Quarter - a bit of a culture shock for us with all the motorbikes zooming around. We didn't shop a lot, since we figured to do our shopping elsewhere.
Day 2. Joined a Hanoi city tour for USD28 each, booked through hotel. Covered the Ho Chi Minh museum complex, Museum of Ethnology, and some pagoda. Visiting Ho Chi Minh's tomb is a lot like Mao Zedong's in Beijing. The Musem of Ethnology looks great on the outside, but doesn't have a lot of exhibits. Singapore's own Asian Civilizations Musuem does a better job (imo) with exhibits/artifacts of the Hmong and other minorities. We also attended the water puppet theater - very interesting! Too bad it was all in Vietnamese though. We splurged on dinner at a French restaurant called Green Tangerine near the hotel.
Day 3. We went on a day trip to Halong Bay. The guidebook I've read suggests a minimum of 2D1N, but we didn't have enough time. Anyway, it was a great experience, both the boat ride through the limestone cliffs and the cave we stopped at. Our boat only had 10 people so it wasn't too crowded. Got back to Hanoi around 8pm (not 6pm as was promised), but still on time for our night train to Hue.
Day 4. We had soft sleeper berths on the train to Hue. The experience is quite similar to taking the overnight train from Singapore to KL, i.e. not that great. We saw a "sleeper bus" later on in our journey and thought it was a much more comfortable way to travel. Arrived at Hue around 11 am, and immediately made our way to Orchid Hotel. I must say, the service standard of this budget hotel is fantastic. That day in Hue was very hot though, so we ended up resting in our room for most of the day. Just went out to Mandarin Cafe to book the next day's tour, then also took a brief stroll along the Perfume River.
Day 5. Joined a tour covering 3 emperors' tombs, the Citadel, and Perfume River boat ride. If you've been to Beijing, you'll have an eerie sense of familiarity. The Vietnamese emperors' tombs are not unlike the Ming tombs and the Citadel is not unlike the Imperial Palace/Forbidden City. The Vietnamese sites though are in beautiful natural settings - they make great use of lakes, ponds, and moats.
Day 6. Early in the morning, took a tour bus to Hoi An. The bus stops at Lang Co, a beach somewhere north of Da Nang. We saw beatiful clean beaches, but didn't have time for more than a few photos. The next stop was at the Marble Mountains. There's not actually a lot to see here, other than souvenir sellers. We reached Hoi An in the early afternoon and immediately made our way to the Ha An hotel, which turned out to be another great budget hotel. Hoi An really looks ancient - dirts roads, old houses - but it's chockful of tourists and tailoring shops. Had a relaxed first day just looking around. Also booked My Son tour through Sinh Cafe.
Day 7. Half day tour of the My Son ruins. It was pretty awesome to stand under the ruined monuments and imagine the weight of history. Unfortunately that day a whole bunch of Vietnamese school children were having a field trip, so it was quite crowded and noisy. We did manage some quality time when the students took a break for lunch. Not a lot of ruins left though, no thanks to the American war. Got back early afternoon and went shopping in earnest.
Day 8. Continued the shopping spree in Hoi An. The Hoi An tailors are pretty amazing - they can copy stuff off fashion magazines, and produce dresses/shirts within hours. My wife and I had not planned to do much shopping, but ended up with 8 new dresses, 2 shirts, 1 suit, and shoes for the both of us. Custom made stuff is great, especially shoes. Ever notice that our left foot and right foot are not the same size?
Day 9. Took early morning tour bus to Da Nang. Our bus turned out to be a "sleeper" - with sleeping berths instead of seats. Very comfortable! But unfortunately we only rode it for an hour until Da Nang. Most others were going on to Hue, or further north. At Da Nang, we went to the Cham Musuem, which filled in the gaps of My Son. After which, we headed to My Khe Beach Hotel. The beach there is fantastic, but the hotel is pretty terrible.
Day 10. Left early in the morning for Da Nang airport. Took flight to HCM from there. Picked up at airport by hotel's agent. Went on to the Bich Duyen hotel, a budget operation off an alley in Pham Ngu Lao. The rooms are tiny but clean and tastefully decorated. Took a quick explore of the Ben Thanh market. Also had our first taste of southern pho at Pho 2000. The Hanoi version seemed to be clearer and used less seasoning.
Day 11. Took half day tour of Cu Chi tunnels. Back at HCM, went exploring at the Dong Khoi / Saigon river area. Prices there seem terribly expensive. Met with a Vietnamese pal for dinner at a local place serving great Central Vietnamese food (fairly cheap too).
Day 12. Went to Co-op supermarket near Pham Ngu Lao. This is the best place to get stuff like coffee and green bean cake. At Benh Thanh you could perhaps bargain down to similar prices, but it would take a lot of effort. Went to Ben Thanh again for some other souvenirs. Got caught in the rain and took a cab back, but got ripped off by cab driver

After that, no mood left so headed to airport early for flight back to Singapore.
In general, the trip was great but the last incident with cab driver left a bad taste in the mouth. I wasn't alert enough really - I should have noticed that the cab didn't have one of those big company names, or that the meter was jumping like crazy. To make a long story short, he tried to charge 350,000 dong (abt 32 SGD) from Ben Thanh to Pham Ngu Lao - which is about 15 min walk. He locked the door and refused to let us out until we paid. In the end we settled at 150,000 dong. I got his cab number (52V-3764) and planned to report him, but according to the hotel staff the amount was too small for the police to bother with.
So to other HCM visitors, be wary of rogue cab drivers. Actually those in the tourist trade there think nothing of quoting a price 2x-3x the norm for tourists, but this is the first instance of a blatant rip off that I encountered while in Vietnam. Be careful, but you can find many enjoyable things in Vietnam.