Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

[darthsid11111]

What caught my attention were the number of car keys in that tray... Haha

I'd take the merc over the shoes anyday!

Sent from the exploded Death Star using GAGT

 

[boysdontcryy]

PART 1 of a Japanese Bespoke Adventure

All right, I recently went to Tokyo and took the opportunity to try out a bespoke shoe maker. Pics below.

Started off by discussing about the design for the two pairs I bespoke - 1 round toe, and 1 chisel toe. Provided him pictures as reference and he sketched how it'd look like.









Discussed the detailing for the shoes - pitched heel and fiddleback waist - spent some time pondering if I should go for the fiddleback back waist because for Japanese shoemakers, these don't come as standard, and they cost up to 250 USD extra. Money that could be well channeled into another pair of shoes.

 

[boysdontcryy]

PART 2 of a Japanese Bespoke Adventure

Then chose the leather - for one pair I opted for the lacquered Japanese Kurozan leather that came at a significant upcharge, and for the second pair, went with box calf.





Measurement process. Had me stand on two sheets of paper before he sketched out the outline of my feet and took measurements







Now, I'm going to have to wait for my fitting shoes. He'll send them to me, and I have a go at them before he cuts them up to determine areas for improvement, and makes the final pairs. Pictures of fitting shoes and those that have been cut up below.

 

[boysdontcryy]

PART 3 of a Japanese Bespoke Adventure

Tools he uses to make the last, and finish the shoes









Some miscellaneous points:

Was contemplating whether to opt for lasted trees and I was showed two pairs of shoes, both on the same last barring the toe-shape -- one has been stored on a last, the other, on a generic pair of trees. Spot the differences of the effects of the trees on the shoe!

 

[genie47]

Same!

I just ordered a few pairs of light darn tough socks. Hopefully it will be thicker than saf black socks.

As previously I'm using the full cushion ones for wearing boots.

Sent from Workday using GAGT

Laundering wool in your washer becomes a no-brainer if you figure out what wool actually is.

I wash mine in cold water. No heating. It is the enzymes that kill wool. Enzymes are more active at higher temperatures. So to make your wool socks last longer even though Darn Tough has a return policy (if you get to the US), washing in cold water reduces enzyme activity.

You can use no enzyme detergents but they are scarce now.

 

[TUV2008]

Going to Tokyo next month also, intereted to check it up.... What is the damage for a basic design bespoke shoe ?

 

[boysdontcryy]

Going to Tokyo next month also, intereted to check it up.... What is the damage for a basic design bespoke shoe ?

Not cheap, about 3.5k SGD, though that's cheap vis-a-vis English bespoke that is north of 6k. I suggest going to Isetan and check out their Japanese brands which are extremely value for money i.e. they probably would go for significantly higher if they have an English label on them - Union Imperials, Miyagi Kogyo, Perfetto etc.

Also check out World Footwear Gallery and Trading Post which have branches located all around.

 

[darthsid11111]

Wah v impressive post! So what's the difference between using lasted shoe trees and generic ones?

Sent from the exploded Death Star using GAGT

 

[likehotbutter]

Boysdontcry is that Marquess?

 

[boysdontcryy]

Boysdontcry is that Marquess?

No. It's a shoemaker called Koji Endo.

Wow, impressive that you know Marquess. He's one shoemaker that is regarded very highly (amongst the shoemakers themselves), and whom I might try in future.

Wah v impressive post! So what's the difference between using lasted shoe trees and generic ones?

Sent from the exploded Death Star using GAGT

Essentially, generic trees typically bend/push the shoes out of shape, so over time they conform to the mould of the trees instead of the mould of the shoe last which is based on your feet. Might not be that best option for a bespoke pair of shoes that you've already paid top dollar to have crafted to your feet shape ... If it's a pair of MTO/OTR shoes, less of an issue.

 

[likehotbutter]

Wow, impressive that you know Marquess. He's one shoemaker that is regarded very highly (amongst the shoemakers themselves), and whom I might try in future.

Haha iirc he has a female clicker. Thought the lady might be her! Alas i was wrong

 

[Shiro MS08th]

Laundering wool in your washer becomes a no-brainer if you figure out what wool actually is.

I wash mine in cold water. No heating. It is the enzymes that kill wool. Enzymes are more active at higher temperatures. So to make your wool socks last longer even though Darn Tough has a return policy (if you get to the US), washing in cold water reduces enzyme activity.

You can use no enzyme detergents but they are scarce now.

My washing machine is those old ones, so definitely only cold water haha!
Anyways I have been washing my Darn Tough and Icebreaker socks in washing machine for say several times, as they are boot socks which I only wore them overseas in cooler climate.

So far so good though, not sure for my current purchase of Darn Tough "light" socks which I intent to use for weekday usage haha!

 

[kingcarlos]

can anyone recommend black toe cap oxfords with budget of $300?

 

[urbanturban]

can anyone recommend black toe cap oxfords with budget of $300?

Wait for discounts/sales on Herrings.

 

[kingcarlos]

Wait for discounts/sales on Herrings.

you mean online or store? is there any shops that can try this brand of shoes

 

[darthsid11111]

you mean online or store? is there any shops that can try this brand of shoes

Ed et al. Better yet do a little more research. =)

Sent from the exploded Death Star using GAGT

 

[Shiro MS08th]

can anyone recommend black toe cap oxfords with budget of $300?

I think this weekend have 15% off at Robinsons (online store), should be able to get Loake 1880 series around this price, maybe 310+-

Sent from Workday using GAGT

 

[kingcarlos]

I think this weekend have 15% off at Robinsons (online store), should be able to get Loake 1880 series around this price, maybe 310+-

Sent from Workday using GAGT

does robinsons have samples to try?

 

[kingcarlos]

Ed et al. Better yet do a little more research. =)

Sent from the exploded Death Star using GAGT

got a pair of their MTO before. worn out pretty fast =s

 

[terras14]

I think this weekend have 15% off at Robinsons (online store), should be able to get Loake 1880 series around this price, maybe 310+-

Sent from Workday using GAGT

I went to check the popular loake 1880 are in the range of 214pound. After 15% discount and using current conversion rate, it comes to nearly 400 before shipping.
How did u arrives at 310?