Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

[urbanturban]

...after a while, you will realise that it all depends on your personal preference...
Some like it snug.
Some don't.

 

[thundermarch]

Thanks all for the recommendations!

Next qn that comes to mind is that.. I have been reading that shoes should be snug and no heel slip on initial wear.

What does "snug" mean?

The general idea is that there shouldn't be too much room inside the shoe that causes excessive movement of the foot within the shoe.
The toebox should just touch the edges of your little toe and big toe, with just a little room for expansion as your feet splay out a bit more both at the end of the day and as you get older.
The vamp area should not be too voluminous and should also be at most an mm or so above where your toe joints are (where your toes meet your foot).
The instep should feel firm against the top surface of your foot (with just a bit of pressure) and with a 1cm gap at the top of the facings.
The waist should also feel firmly (but not uncomfortably so) pressed up against the arch of your foot.
The heel should cup your heel nicely with not too much room left and right of your heel for it to move around. When you toe off, there should also be no heel slip.

That's snug.

 

[Belthasar]

Jeez thundermarch, I don't even know how you find the time to maintain and polish all your shoes, let alone finding the correct shade of saphir for each pair lol.

It's a wonderful problem to have though.

 

[thundermarch]

Jeez thundermarch, I don't even know how you find the time to maintain and polish all your shoes, let alone finding the correct shade of saphir for each pair lol.

It's a wonderful problem to have though.

Well I'm not very particular about exact shades to be honest.
Even if the shades differ a bit, I don't really mind. Makes things a little more interesting.

 

[cokiee]

The general idea is that there shouldn't be too much room inside the shoe that causes excessive movement of the foot within the shoe.
The toebox should just touch the edges of your little toe and big toe, with just a little room for expansion as your feet splay out a bit more both at the end of the day and as you get older.
The vamp area should not be too voluminous and should also be at most an mm or so above where your toe joints are (where your toes meet your foot).
The instep should feel firm against the top surface of your foot (with just a bit of pressure) and with a 1cm gap at the top of the facings.
The waist should also feel firmly (but not uncomfortably so) pressed up against the arch of your foot.
The heel should cup your heel nicely with not too much room left and right of your heel for it to move around. When you toe off, there should also be no heel slip.

That's snug.

This is great info! Thank you.

I think many of us are used to and define comfort in our non leather / business shoes as being a bit loose, and hence transfer that to our leather shoes, which ends up being a bit looser as the foot bed sinks and the leather stretches.

On laces - how do you guys prevent the laces from twirling into a mess? I use a horizontal bar lacing method, and when I adjust my shoes the laces invariably become a twirled up mess. Hehe.

Sent from Xiaomi MI 3W using GAGT

 

[thundermarch]

This is great info! Thank you.

I think many of us are used to and define comfort in our non leather / business shoes as being a bit loose, and hence transfer that to our leather shoes, which ends up being a bit looser as the foot bed sinks and the leather stretches.

On laces - how do you guys prevent the laces from twirling into a mess? I use a horizontal bar lacing method, and when I adjust my shoes the laces invariably become a twirled up mess. Hehe.

Sent from Xiaomi MI 3W using GAGT

Most welcome.

The twirling of the laces is most problematic with flat laces. To minimise (but not completely eliminate) the problem, for new shoes that have flat laces in, I will remove the laces entirely and lay them out completely flat and then lace them up again ensuring that the flat edge always faces up. And make sure there is no twisting as the lace goes through the eyelet.
It helps for subsequent wears, though you might still get the problem intermittently. After awhile though, you do get used to it.
The biggest headache is with balmoral boots that do not have speed hooks.

 

[Emospence]

@tm what's your experience with the 363MOD last?

 

[urbanturban]

@tm what's your experience with the 363MOD last?

I know you are asking @thundermarch.
From my experience, the last is something that i really don't like.
It looks bulbous and blobbly. But yet does not give me a lot of toe room.

I have it on a chukka and it looks chunky all the time.

My least liked last for sure.

 

[thundermarch]

@tm what's your experience with the 363MOD last?

I would say my experience has been rather atypical.
The general consensus is that it has a high instep which requires a half size down.
I have only 1 pair of boots in the 363mod, none in shoes, and weirdly enough, the instep of the boots feel a little low. It's size 8.5 (my normal size). So tbh, I'm not confident giving sizing advice for the 363. Certainly not for shoes.

Edit: I do agree with urban, the last is not the nicest looking too. It should only be used for country boots/ shoes IMO. The 74945 and 804 are clear winners.

 

[anodize]

Joining the EB LW GMTO?

Hard to visualize that model in Oak Tarnsjo leather.

@tm what's your experience with the 363MOD last?

 

[thundermarch]

Joining the EB LW GMTO?

Hard to visualize that model in Oak Tarnsjo leather.

Was very tempted by this make-up as well.
Emospence proved to be the deciding 4th member of the GMTO.
The Oak tarnsjo is incredible stuff.

 

[Emospence]

Joining the EB LW GMTO?

Hard to visualize that model in Oak Tarnsjo leather.

Considering it.

 

[anodize]

Ya, been eyeing a longwing to add to my collection. it's either this or carmina's detroit longwing.

but it's 363 MOD. not sure if i can downsize to 6 UK.
6.5 UK a bit too loose for me, ended up my split toe went to a happy buyer. right, arcfire?

Was very tempted by this make-up as well.
Emospence proved to be the deciding 4th member of the GMTO.
The Oak tarnsjo is incredible stuff.

 

[Emospence]

Ya, been eyeing a longwing to add to my collection. it's either this or carmina's detroit longwing.

but it's 363 MOD. not sure if i can downsize to 6 UK.
6.5 UK a bit too loose for me, ended up my split toe went to a happy buyer. right, arcfire?

6.5 is your normal size?

 

[thundermarch]

Haha.
If anyone would like to buy my Carmina horween LWB (detroit last) in 8.5, I would probably join in that GMTO and take a gamble on the 363.

 

[anodize]

Ya, mostly. Can wear a 804 oxford in size 6 though.

I'm guessing a size 6 for 363MOD will suits me.

6.5 is your normal size?

 

[Emospence]

Ya, mostly. Can wear a 804 oxford in size 6 though.

I'm guessing a size 6 for 363MOD will suits me.

Try lor, if can't then sell and take the difference as tuition fee to know the last doesn't suit you at all.. Though I'm guessing should be can ba?

I'm normally 9.5, wear 9.5 too for 804 oxfords, Gabriel recommended just sticking to 9.5 for these..

Your previous split toe was too loose for you in what sense?

 

[anodize]

well, gabriel also recommended 6.5UK for 363mod when i mentioned 6.5UK rain and 6UK 804 fit me the best. snug fit. it turned out to be too long for me and plenty of room at the in-step area.

anyway 6UK in 363 mod should be fine. I just need more convincing that the end product for that EB LW will turn out good. lol.

Try lor, if can't then sell and take the difference as tuition fee to know the last doesn't suit you at all.. Though I'm guessing should be can ba?

I'm normally 9.5, wear 9.5 too for 804 oxfords, Gabriel recommended just sticking to 9.5 for these..

Your previous split toe was too loose for you in what sense?

 

[thundermarch]

Soon, very soon, we shall not need to speculate further on EB sizing.
When they finally arrive at our friendly local retailer, we will have a new fix for our EB needs.

 

[Belthasar]

You guys really should just hold till Ryan gets them in. Enzos really aren't as easy to move as Carminas etc.

Damn it why am I a 9 in Detroit and not a 8.5 I could probably have gotten shoes for 5 CNYs with thundermarch's collection. LOL