Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

[likehotbutter]

What are your thoughts on cordovan and calf leather?

I've always wanted to get a pair of cordovan loafers/slip-on for daily wear but can't bring myself to get them because of their price

Would you guys buy calf or cordovan if the shoes you want does come in cordovan?

It is generally a "Hate or Love" affair.

Cordovan is simply another material amongst many others bringing along its own traits and characteristics to one's wardrobe and pros/cons.

Natural lustre, Rolls (imo stunning on wholecuts vs creases), Scratch recovery and for some, "rarity" especially when we go into the uncommon colours (which can fade overtime).

On the other hand, you will be dealing with rain spots, heavy markups, generally lower ranking in formality etc.

Some shoemakers dont prefer cordovan due to the difficulty in working it. Cordovan was not originally meant for shoes. Only with the rise of DE razors (and obsolescence for a strop) did tanners start to market and adjust their tannage for Cordovan to be able to be used for footwear. Cordovan's tensile strength isnt as high as calf, which leads to a higher propensity to tear during lasting and wastage of an expensive material (cost of a grade 1 Horween butt is USD 280).


YMMV

 

[likehotbutter]

I really like this thread is because the shoes are really top quality and it changes my perspective and corrected my thinking on the false positive of "military grade" boots.

However, does Singapore have a shop that sells high cut office boots?

1) what's ur budget.

2) define high cut office boot. Derby vs balmoral. how high

3) what's your working environment. front office/sales/customer facing, backend etc

 

[iphone1s]

1) what's ur budget.
- Say max max $300+?

2) define high cut office boot. Derby vs balmoral. how high
- Like the previous post I made, kinda like army boots height, high cut, but after the pants coverup, it looks like a normal office shoe. Also, I hope to get a anti slip spray to put a coat on it during rainy days

3) what's your working environment. front office/sales/customer facing, backend etc

Office environment with boots and sometimes formal shirt and pants. But basically, I want to wear it for any and every occasion or even every outing.

Thanks for the seniors advice. Really appreciate. I have been searching and searching for the entire Singapore. It is too expensive or they don't even make. T_T

 

[yswrox]

Anyone with Enzo Bonafe shoes care to share their experience with the brand? One particular model caught my eye but want to hear more opinions from local wearers before I commit...

 

[thundermarch]

Anyone with Enzo Bonafe shoes care to share their experience with the brand? One particular model caught my eye but want to hear more opinions from local wearers before I commit...

Enzo has nothing but my fullest support and endorsement.
Of the 20 odd pairs that I've gotten from them, I've only ever had (minor) issues with one of them.
They use more very decent leathers and the colours are amazing.
For RTW shoes, the construction is good.
They are generally very consistent in their standard of work.
Their lasts and designs are generally very pleasing. In fact, their design inventory is incredible.
What more could a shoe lover ask for?

 

[likehotbutter]

Office environment with boots and sometimes formal shirt and pants. But basically, I want to wear it for any and every occasion or even every outing.

Thanks for the seniors advice. Really appreciate. I have been searching and searching for the entire Singapore. It is too expensive or they don't even make. T_T

$300 is quite budget for high boots. normally there is a premium over normal shoes.

But if u care about decent quality stitched construction (GYW above), here are some brands to watch out for. But cheap bamoral boots are rare so you have to be patient.

SKOAK webby
Carlos Santos
http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...se/products/carlos-santos-black-balmoral-boot

Another pair
https://www.skoaktiebolaget.se/collections/carlos-santos/products/carlos-santos-suede-balmoral-boot

Yanko (about 500 sing.) Check with Lusso if they can give u a good price

Meermin.

if you can consider Derby boots. Can try out Indo makers Txture and Sagara. txture Siuri last should look more "formal". They will run u about SGD$300 or less

 

[hysteria88]

Quick question about purchasing carmina online. might make a purchase before black friday promo ends.

Will there be custom duties charged upon delivery?

 

[yswrox]

Enzo has nothing but my fullest support and endorsement.
Of the 20 odd pairs that I've gotten from them, I've only ever had (minor) issues with one of them.
They use more very decent leathers and the colours are amazing.
For RTW shoes, the construction is good.
They are generally very consistent in their standard of work.
Their lasts and designs are generally very pleasing. In fact, their design inventory is incredible.
What more could a shoe lover ask for?

Much appreciated thundermarch. Big fan of your IG too, pure poison for shoes

 

[Emospence]

Anyone with Enzo Bonafe shoes care to share their experience with the brand? One particular model caught my eye but want to hear more opinions from local wearers before I commit...

Got 2 pairs with 1 more on the way. Supremely happy with them. Good designs, detailing, finish, materials (AFAI can see, how they last remains to be seen, but no reason to believe they won't last long). One of the most, if not THE most value legit handwelt you can find. Ability to try them on before buying at a local store, without the standard local markup.

TLDR; mai tu liao

 

[iphone1s]

$300 is quite budget for high boots. normally there is a premium over normal shoes.

But if u care about decent quality stitched construction (GYW above), here are some brands to watch out for. But cheap bamoral boots are rare so you have to be patient.

SKOAK webby
Carlos Santos
http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...se/products/carlos-santos-black-balmoral-boot

Another pair
https://www.skoaktiebolaget.se/collections/carlos-santos/products/carlos-santos-suede-balmoral-boot

Yanko (about 500 sing.) Check with Lusso if they can give u a good price

Meermin.

if you can consider Derby boots. Can try out Indo makers Txture and Sagara. txture Siuri last should look more "formal". They will run u about SGD$300 or less

Bro, that's very useful information! Really appreciate it!

However, my feet size ranges differently from shoe to shoe. Some are US 9 some are US 8. Since all these are overseas, how can I determine the correct size to these overseas sellers?

 

[thundermarch]

Much appreciated thundermarch. Big fan of your IG too, pure poison for shoes

Thanks, you're too kind.
I'm just another shoe lover.

 

[kacaka]

Hi guys, just a qn, assuming bought locally, would it make sense to top up 200 bucks for vass shoes as compared to enzo?

 

[Darknight55]

Bro, that's very useful information! Really appreciate it!

However, my feet size ranges differently from shoe to shoe. Some are US 9 some are US 8. Since all these are overseas, how can I determine the correct size to these overseas sellers?

Feet tracing is the easiest. Some makers might ask you to include pictures of your feet but usually those are the higher end ones.

For EU/US shoemakers/retailers you can list some of the current sizes you wear in other shoemakers. Eg. you can do some sizing at local Carmina store at Capitol, Yanko and Enzo Bonafe at Lusso etc.

 

[thundermarch]

Hi guys, just a qn, assuming bought locally, would it make sense to top up 200 bucks for vass shoes as compared to enzo?

Well, none of us here can tell you how to spend your money.

I do not know how things have changed with regards to the MTO program since kevin-turd-ripoff has taken over Vass dealings for local chaps, or whether the $900+ price tag is solely for stock models..... but here is my $0.02.

Vass, like EB, offers really good value for money.
The main advantages over EB are that of:
1) A relatively flexible MTO program where slight tweaks in design can be made with minimal to no up charges.
2) Solid construction, handwelted with hand stitched outsoles m (EB outsoles are machine stitched). However, the outsole stitching is fairly low SPI and can sometimes be rather sloppy.
3) Lasted trees.
4) JR outsoles. These are not bad, but I must say EB outsoles have served me pretty well too.

I've got stuff from both makers, but I still prefer EB, mainly because:
1) I prefer the leathers, and the colours. Some might feel that EB uses thinner calf and some have experienced issues with creasing. But I've largely had very positive experiences with EB's calf (both Vitello and Betis) and find them very supple and consistently good.
2) I prefer the aesthetics and shapes of their lasts. Their lasts also fit me much better than Vass'.
3) Their upcharge for boots is significantly less.
4) Their design inventory is massive, practically almost nothing they can't do.
5) They screw up significantly less.
Vass has a very high chance of getting your MTO details wrong. Of all the MTOs I've done with them, 80% of them had some form of error, with numerous requiring re-makes. Some people put it down to "Vass charm", but to me, it's completely ludicrous (a screw up is ... well.... a screw up). But the redeeming factor is that Vass is a maker who has a very high willingness to do re-makes. EB has never gotten an MTO detail wrong for me.

 

[kacaka]

thanks bro, certainly helpful. Guess its worth a try on enzo.

Well, none of us here can tell you how to spend your money.

I do not know how things have changed with regards to the MTO program since kevin-turd-ripoff has taken over Vass dealings for local chaps, or whether the $900+ price tag is solely for stock models..... but here is my $0.02.

Vass, like EB, offers really good value for money.
The main advantages over EB are that of:
1) A relatively flexible MTO program where slight tweaks in design can be made with minimal to no up charges.
2) Solid construction, handwelted with hand stitched outsoles m (EB outsoles are machine stitched). However, the outsole stitching is fairly low SPI and can sometimes be rather sloppy.
3) Lasted trees.
4) JR outsoles. These are not bad, but I must say EB outsoles have served me pretty well too.

I've got stuff from both makers, but I still prefer EB, mainly because:
1) I prefer the leathers, and the colours. Some might feel that EB uses thinner calf and some have experienced issues with creasing. But I've largely had very positive experiences with EB's calf (both Vitello and Betis) and find them very supple and consistently good.
2) I prefer the aesthetics and shapes of their lasts. Their lasts also fit me much better than Vass'.
3) Their upcharge for boots is significantly less.
4) Their design inventory is massive, practically almost nothing they can't do.
5) They screw up significantly less.
Vass has a very high chance of getting your MTO details wrong. Of all the MTOs I've done with them, 80% of them had some form of error, with numerous requiring re-makes. Some people put it down to "Vass charm", but to me, it's completely ludicrous (a screw up is ... well.... a screw up). But the redeeming factor is that Vass is a maker who has a very high willingness to do re-makes. EB has never gotten an MTO detail wrong for me.

 

[iphone1s]

guess its hard to find a military high cut boots in Singapore.

Its either overseas or way too expensive or the offerings are mid cut types

About to throw in the towel for this search. Maybe I should settle with the one offering at pedro now.

 

[Belthasar]

TM, would you have any comments for Corno Blu? Just curious as I think you recommend Union Imperial for RTW.

 

[yswrox]

guess its hard to find a military high cut boots in Singapore.

Its either overseas or way too expensive or the offerings are mid cut types

About to throw in the towel for this search. Maybe I should settle with the one offering at pedro now.

I would suggest that you continue to invest in a good pair from a reputed maker. They are worth the investments as long as you take decent care of them.

I've had terrible experiences with Pedro/Aldo where they spoil within a year or two. Good quality shoes will last you a decade easily

 

[iphone1s]

I would suggest that you continue to invest in a good pair from a reputed maker. They are worth the investments as long as you take decent care of them.

I've had terrible experiences with Pedro/Aldo where they spoil within a year or two. Good quality shoes will last you a decade easily

Brother, do you have any local shops or local clobber to intro?

 

[thundermarch]

TM, would you have any comments for Corno Blu? Just curious as I think you recommend Union Imperial for RTW.

They are one of the most affordable Japanese bespoke makers out there.
A bespoke pair costs just slightly above 3K SGD all in.
The typical price for Japanese bespoke is approximately in the low to mid 4K range.
Their work looks pretty good. But I must say I find the Ugolini trained Japanese makers (like Seigaku from Corno Blu), aren't quite as refined as the UK trained ones (like Yohei Fukuda).
The GYW range from Corno is actually pretty expensive at 1K ish. But looks to be very well done as well.... I would say if you are looking in that price range, you can also look at Joe Works. Also pretty good GYW stuff. Certainly, at that price range, I would pick them over Northampton "high end" crap. And with the spare change, still have enough money for a pair of EB's if they were in the odd stock section of SkoaB.
I've been emailing Corno Blu as I will be in Fukuoka this coming January, and I think I'd likely pay them a visit, but their English is .... really hard to understand.