Thundermarch,
Sorry to be slow getting back to you, am going through the links you suggested slowly and thoroughly - lots of questions answered already, really appreciate it.
If you don't mind I may come back with a few more questions after I have gone through everything.
A few quick questions in the meantime;
- is Gary Toks book on Master Shoemakers too advanced for a novice?
- cannot bring myself to pound up a pair of AMs, even Aeris series, strange, I know but it feels disrespectful of the skill put into them ........ can you recommend a few sub SGD$450 office shoes that I can use everyday without pangs of conscience please?
Thank you!
Most welcome. No need to apologize, btw.
Gary's book isn't meant to be a technical book. It's primarily a pictorial based, coffee table book with focus on the shoes and the makers. It's meant to be enjoyed by most people, so no, it's really not too advanced for anybody. Even someone who isn't into shoes at all.
In the circa 450 price range, I think there are quite a few players. Loake is popular, and has been tried and tested by many bros here. And I think is a pretty good choice for a first pair sub 450. Yanko, Duggers, Orbans are also around that price or below. Orbans has been reviewed by Shoe Snob and shoegazing, numerous bros here have tried Yanko, and I know bro AIAD has a pair of Duggers.
What I can say is, at this price point,you will find that it is difficult to find a "breakthrough" maker with very significantly better materials, construction techniques, or finishing. But you can find makers with "decent everything" for the price.
You will hear the terms "Goodyear welted", "full grain leather", "Annonay", "Du Puy", "veg tanned outsoles" used frequently. But be prepared to be able to find minor imperfections in your pair. This is a given, because the limitations at that price point is definitely the cost and economies of scale.
A wonky medallion, slightly uneven brogueing, a bit of edge finish on the uppers, a slightly crooked captoe, pits / veins on the leather surface. All these can be seen. But if luck has it, you might well also get a very good pair. So as much as a maker can have a decent reputation, it is also very much a game of chance, somewhat.
At the same time, you'll also need to know what is a clear, unacceptable defect. Warped uppers, rips in the grain of the uppers, torn welts, or anything that would affect structural integrity.
So to prevent disappointment, it's always good to moderate one's expectations according to how the shoes are priced. I say this not as someone who is involved in a shoe retail business. But as a shoe lover. One of you.
