Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

[cokiee]

I think Herring and Pediwear still carries them.

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Thanks!

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[completenovice]

Hey, those are decent shoes and yes once experienced AM, Vass, EB etc the quality differences are significant. So is the cost

I think you are referring to the creasing on the vamp. From what I understand it comes down to the quality of the leather used. Typically the uppers will have better leather since they are the most visible. Different styles like a toe cap will tend to make creasing less visible compare to say a wholecut.

My EBs are older about 18 months old and AMs 4 months. The EB show signs of age but they still look great! I think only time will tell if the AM age better. What I do notice the fit, the clicking and leather used for the whole shoe is better on AM.

That's exactly what I wanted to know - thanks for the pics and advice Wiz!

 

[Icy.Waffles]

Hi guys. Recently I have bought some Long sleeves and shirt sleeves shirt and chinos for dress down Friday. Any idea what shoe will be competitable with it ? Loafers ? Tassel ?

 

[Darknight55]

Depends on colours, length of pants, design of shirt etc, if you want a contrasting/bold look or a conservative look. Shoes/Boots with or without laces both are fine. If you want closed-laced shoes, get suede.

 

[urbanturban]

Hi I'm on UK7.5 for Carmina Rain and Buger last. But I wearing UK7.0 for Yanko 915 and Carlos Santos 234.

.

Hi, how does Carmina Rain compares with their Buger last? Thanks for your feedback.

 

[lumin87]

Hi guys. Recently I have bought some Long sleeves and shirt sleeves shirt and chinos for dress down Friday. Any idea what shoe will be competitable with it ? Loafers ? Tassel ?

I like chukkas myself. Or desert boot to pair

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[wrinklednails]

Actually, I've never sent a pair of shoes for re-welting. But one thing we need to take note of, is that in an ideal situation, re-welting (or re-crafting) cannot be done without the original last the shoe was made on.

IOW, a "proper job" of re-welting can only be done by the original maker of the shoes. Not a cobbler. Unless for some unknown reason, cobbler X has the original last of your shoes, in your size.

The reason is this, for re-welting to be done, the inseam has to come undone. And once this happens, because the inseam holds the insole, uppers, and welt together, the backbone of the shoe essentially comes apart and the shape is lost.

Without the original last inserted into the shoe, the re-welting process will thus be a game of guesswork at best, and at the end, the fit would almost certainly be altered. And this might not be ideal for the customer.

I def agree with you on having to send back to the original maker.

I posed this question because i have 2 pairs of GYW shoes that i've used frequently in rotation over the past 3 years or so. They are topy-ed and i have cared for the leather uppers pretty well. however, i have recently noticed that the outsole and the welt separating at certain flex points and also that perhaps due to the effects of weather, the outsole and welt isn't 100% aligned anymore.

I have helped with re-soling of shoes and the results were pretty good but I was just wondering if perhaps my 'daily beaters' are in need of a proper re-welting. both pairs are european make and did not cost more than $300 each so i'm trying to get a good gauge of the cost to re-welt them.

If re-welting does not make economical sense for more entry level GYW shoes, i might perhaps look out for blake stitched shoes at a lower price point in future. this is coming from a purely pragmatic point of view of course, i do not deny nor discount the value of artistry and workmanship that goes into making a great pair of shoes.

 

[jnpy3093]

Hi, how does Carmina Rain compares with their Buger last? Thanks for your feedback.

Buger feels tighter.

 

[thundermarch]

I def agree with you on having to send back to the original maker.

I posed this question because i have 2 pairs of GYW shoes that i've used frequently in rotation over the past 3 years or so. They are topy-ed and i have cared for the leather uppers pretty well. however, i have recently noticed that the outsole and the welt separating at certain flex points and also that perhaps due to the effects of weather, the outsole and welt isn't 100% aligned anymore.

I have helped with re-soling of shoes and the results were pretty good but I was just wondering if perhaps my 'daily beaters' are in need of a proper re-welting. both pairs are european make and did not cost more than $300 each so i'm trying to get a good gauge of the cost to re-welt them.

If re-welting does not make economical sense for more entry level GYW shoes, i might perhaps look out for blake stitched shoes at a lower price point in future. this is coming from a purely pragmatic point of view of course, i do not deny nor discount the value of artistry and workmanship that goes into making a great pair of shoes.

I think you're right. For the lower price-point / entry level GYW stuff at about 300ish SGD, it might make more sense to just get a new pair of shoes than to recraft or perhaps even resole. Though tbh, for blake stitched stuff, I am not sure if there would there be a large amount of savings compared to this? It would definitely make sense if there was.

With regards to re-welting over resoling, I would consider it in a pair of shoes if the gemming has slipped, or if the welt itself has been torn / damaged, or worn out beyond a certain limit.

 

[jonleelk]

I think you're right. For the lower price-point / entry level GYW stuff at about 300ish SGD, it might make more sense to just get a new pair of shoes than to recraft or perhaps even resole. Though tbh, for blake stitched stuff, I am not sure if there would there be a large amount of savings compared to this? It would definitely make sense if there was.

With regards to re-welting over resoling, I would consider it in a pair of shoes if the gemming has slipped, or if the welt itself has been torn / damaged, or worn out beyond a certain limit.

I had a pair of Loake oxford and a pair of Redwing Chuka recrafted by EEA. Cost near to $200 for the service. Decent quality and the shoes can be worn for another 3-4 years. However, some part of the leather near the welt is not tight, which is expected since the leather is not stretched over the original last during the recrafting process.

Moving forward, for expensive shoes costing $600 and above, I will buy from those with a local dealer (AM from Yeossal, EB from Seamless), so that it will be more cost effective to send back for recrafting 3-4 years later. The patinaed leather will be a waste not to recraft and allow to continue to patina.

 

[wiz]

That is a good point buying from local retailer. Patina leather from your own shoes is priceless

I had a pair of Loake oxford and a pair of Redwing Chuka recrafted by EEA. Cost near to $200 for the service. Decent quality and the shoes can be worn for another 3-4 years. However, some part of the leather near the welt is not tight, which is expected since the leather is not stretched over the original last during the recrafting process.

Moving forward, for expensive shoes costing $600 and above, I will buy from those with a local dealer (AM from Yeossal, EB from Seamless), so that it will be more cost effective to send back for recrafting 3-4 years later. The patinaed leather will be a waste not to recraft and allow to continue to patina.

 

[lordjinfu]

Hi friends, Robinsons at Heeren/Metro centerpoint used to have more Loakes/Barkers.

Seems like its not available anymore.

Any advice where can I get these brands or any alternatives? Looking at Goodyear welted shoes at $300 and below.

Overseas online if you know your size.

 

[callduty]

Anybody tried the Blakes over at EEA??
Also, what opinions do you all have for Earnest & Collective considering
they are all cemented and just $60 cheaper than Blakes over at EEA?

 

[frozencup]

Anyone have tried wolf and shepherd shoes before?

 

[wrinklednails]

I think you're right. For the lower price-point / entry level GYW stuff at about 300ish SGD, it might make more sense to just get a new pair of shoes than to recraft or perhaps even resole. Though tbh, for blake stitched stuff, I am not sure if there would there be a large amount of savings compared to this? It would definitely make sense if there was.

With regards to re-welting over resoling, I would consider it in a pair of shoes if the gemming has slipped, or if the welt itself has been torn / damaged, or worn out beyond a certain limit.

Thanks for all the sharing of opinions and experiences regarding this! Am not ready to shell out >$500 for a pair of shoes at this point in time. It is a good suggestion to purchase shoes with a local retailer for future customer service and support.

Will be on the look out for value deals, would appreciate sharing of sale lobangs!

 

[wrinklednails]

Hi friends, Robinsons at Heeren/Metro centerpoint used to have more Loakes/Barkers.

Seems like its not available anymore.

Any advice where can I get these brands or any alternatives? Looking at Goodyear welted shoes at $300 and below.

I believe many departmental stores are in the midst of seasonal stock taking and replenishment. Speak with the right sales persons and they might be able to give you some idea on when the new stock will be arriving.

Most Loake models usually retails at $400+ when not on sale.

In most dept stores, you can also take a quick reference at the tag (the small square with sizes and little ticks) they attach to the shoe on display to get a rough idea of how they stock their inventory. Shoes in stock will be marked with a tick (so you can estimate how many they order each time) and once sold, they will cross it out. Unfortunately, I believe (and I may be wrong) that Metro (at least the centrepoint outlet) does not bring in 1/2 sizes for their Loake range which is quite a pity.

 

[All in a Day]

I believe many departmental stores are in the midst of seasonal stock taking and replenishment. Speak with the right sales persons and they might be able to give you some idea on when the new stock will be arriving.

Most Loake models usually retails at $400+ when not on sale.

In most dept stores, you can also take a quick reference at the tag (the small square with sizes and little ticks) they attach to the shoe on display to get a rough idea of how they stock their inventory. Shoes in stock will be marked with a tick (so you can estimate how many they order each time) and once sold, they will cross it out. Unfortunately, I believe (and I may be wrong) that Metro (at least the centrepoint outlet) does not bring in 1/2 sizes for their Loake range which is quite a pity.

I think the $400+ Loakes that retail locally are the lower range ones. Even then I am not even sure they cost only $400+.. The 1880 range costs upwards of $500 at local retail. I am sure that apart from profits, there is a business cost that is driving this type of pricing by the department stores. The hard truth is per my earlier post..

The 'best' thing they should do is to just stop carrying these shoes entirely.. I am assuming competitive pricing against the likes of pediwear, Robinsons shoes etc is not an option..

 

[Shiro MS08th]

Need tips from Thundermarch and the experienced people in here. (Mainly on Carlos Santos and Barker Shoes)

I’m considering between 2 wholecut:
Carlos Santos 6903 (not sure CS got any tiers, not familiar with CS)
Barker Alderney (Anniversary series, highest tier of Barker)

The CS pair on Pediwear is 212 GBP (inclusive of patina service and worldwide shipping), whereas Barker is 329 on Robinsons Shoes, but knowing the site they will have 20% sales almost monthly or every other month, so it’s closer to 274 GBP (inclusive of shipping).

I know the price range is quite a bit of difference, but just want to know the quality between both pairs.

Is that Barker really a notch up from CS? If not I’m actually more interested in the CS since it’s cheaper + got patina service (never had a pair with patina service so quite interested in it haha).

Lastly, how’s these 2 pairs last compared to Loake’s Capital Last?

Thanks in advance! Much appreciated!

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[thundermarch]

Need tips from Thundermarch and the experienced people in here. (Mainly on Carlos Santos and Barker Shoes)

I’m considering between 2 wholecut:
Carlos Santos 6903 (not sure CS got any tiers, not familiar with CS)
Barker Alderney (Anniversary series, highest tier of Barker)

The CS pair on Pediwear is 212 GBP (inclusive of patina service and worldwide shipping), whereas Barker is 329 on Robinsons Shoes, but knowing the site they will have 20% sales almost monthly or every other month, so it’s closer to 274 GBP (inclusive of shipping).

I know the price range is quite a bit of difference, but just want to know the quality between both pairs.

Is that Barker really a notch up from CS? If not I’m actually more interested in the CS since it’s cheaper + got patina service (never had a pair with patina service so quite interested in it haha).

Lastly, how’s these 2 pairs last compared to Loake’s Capital Last?

Thanks in advance! Much appreciated!

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Shiro, actually, I don't have experience with either of these makers.

Or at least, not directly.

I've got a pair of Markowski (obscure French brand) shoes that are actually made by CS. I think CS is decent for what it costs, and in fact most of the bros here who have bought their shoes attest that they're good value. The only thing is the open channel outsole stitching (for their entry level stuff). They do have higher tiered stuff though, increasingly refined at proportionately higher costs.

To be honest, I think that for makers in that price bracket, any difference in quality, present or not, will be quite hard to discern. Especially when comparing experiences between large sample sizes. Allowances, sometimes large, need to be made in terms of leather clicking, material quality, finishing, QC, etc.

My advice is, if you're pretty cost sensitive, work well within your budget and save some money if you can.

 

[wiz]

Need tips from Thundermarch and the experienced people in here. (Mainly on Carlos Santos and Barker Shoes)

I’m considering between 2 wholecut:
Carlos Santos 6903 (not sure CS got any tiers, not familiar with CS)
Barker Alderney (Anniversary series, highest tier of Barker)

The CS pair on Pediwear is 212 GBP (inclusive of patina service and worldwide shipping), whereas Barker is 329 on Robinsons Shoes, but knowing the site they will have 20% sales almost monthly or every other month, so it’s closer to 274 GBP (inclusive of shipping).

I know the price range is quite a bit of difference, but just want to know the quality between both pairs.

Is that Barker really a notch up from CS? If not I’m actually more interested in the CS since it’s cheaper + got patina service (never had a pair with patina service so quite interested in it haha).

Lastly, how’s these 2 pairs last compared to Loake’s Capital Last?

Thanks in advance! Much appreciated!

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Hi, no experience with CS and Barker but

if you are looking for black whole cuts have a look at Yanko from SB https://www.instagram.com/p/BerjltzhCjg/

or up the game and get AM from https://www.yeossal.com/collections...is-wholecut-in-nuvolato?variant=1363583467545

if not in a hurry can try waiting for sales, usually happens during Black Friday to CNY.