Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

[wiz]

If there is something to be picky about Corno Blu is they do not have lasted trees..

 

[Darknight55]

 

[terras14]

I have a pair of Aeris by Sabot. My only complain is the right shoe is not made completely flat. When i am wearing it, is like the middle of the shoe is pivoted and I can tap my feet by moving my feet front and forth. This does not happen to the left shoe. I have quite a number of shoe and non makes me feel this way. So it is weird. Is this bad construction and I am just unlucky?

 

[wiz]

Will have to check tomorrow but I think most of my leather shoes have that ‘pivot’. Perhaps more prominent for those with fiddleback. I think flat is not good for your feet?

I have a pair of Aeris by Sabot. My only complain is the right shoe is not made completely flat. When i am wearing it, is like the middle of the shoe is pivoted and I can tap my feet by moving my feet front and forth. This does not happen to the left shoe. I have quite a number of shoe and non makes me feel this way. So it is weird. Is this bad construction and I am just unlucky?

 

[thundermarch]

Based on what I am reading, what is being described is "heel spring".

Similar to toe spring, heel spring occurs when the toplift of the heel does not sit completely flush with the ground. Or whatever flat surface it is sitting on. With the posterior (back) part of the heel slightly lifted.

In other words, the "pivot" is actually the breast of the heel.

Heel spring is something very hard to avoid in industrial / factory made shoes because more often than not, factory made shoes use a pre-stacked heel.

As opposed to a bespoke maker, who builds the heel stack layer by layer, carefully balancing the "flat-ness" by skiving and shaping each split lift before he adds the next one. This gives the end result of a perfectly flush heel.

Without this gradual heel building process, it's quite difficult if near impossible to get a totally flush sitting heel. The degree of "heel spring" can vary from maker to maker using the same construction methods, within the same maker but between different pairs of shoes, or even between the left and right shoe of the same pair of shoes. It's really rather unpredictable.

One "RTW" maker though, whom I find circumvents this problem quite well, is Vass. I think they do not use pre-stacked heels. Which is how they attain the flush-ness of the heel stack.

But does heel spring constitute a defective pair of shoes? Not exactly. It is an inherent, nearly inevitable part of the industrial process of making shoes. That arises due to inherently imperfect processes being used. IOW, we expect it to occur. It is the same as saying that GYW is an inherently flawed technique when compared to handwelting. It's not "defective" per se. But it's not perfect.

 

[Shiro MS08th]

Shiro, actually, I don't have experience with either of these makers.

Or at least, not directly.

I've got a pair of Markowski (obscure French brand) shoes that are actually made by CS. I think CS is decent for what it costs, and in fact most of the bros here who have bought their shoes attest that they're good value. The only thing is the open channel outsole stitching (for their entry level stuff). They do have higher tiered stuff though, increasingly refined at proportionately higher costs.

To be honest, I think that for makers in that price bracket, any difference in quality, present or not, will be quite hard to discern. Especially when comparing experiences between large sample sizes. Allowances, sometimes large, need to be made in terms of leather clicking, material quality, finishing, QC, etc.

My advice is, if you're pretty cost sensitive, work well within your budget and save some money if you can.

Sorry for the late response TM, somehow not sure why I missed your reply on mobile. (currently on desktop then I saw it).

TBH, after your advice (and a few that shared their experiences) with CS, Yanko, and of course my current favorite and you always wore on your Instagram, AM.

Of course I love AM, and it's actually a great price during sales / end of season, about $450-500 for Aeris, and $550-600 for Argentum (IIRC Q4 2017 sales la).

Main thing is not sure have the size, model, and color of the AM I want during sales haha!

I guess AM - Aeris should be even better than CS 6903 GYW?

Thanks again!

 

[Shiro MS08th]

The 397 last is roomy in the toe box. Comfy for me. Not the snug feel. Instep wise I can t comment as mine is a pair of Chelsea. But I would suspect 397 would be good for you.

Thanks, that sounds good (for me)!

 

[Lexyyy]

Hi guys, need some help with sizing Yanko's 915 last and 962 last. I wear the following sizes from other makers:

Loake capital: UK7
Meermin Hiro: UK7.5
Vass F last: EUR40
AE 5 last: US8E

I also own a pair of Yanko loafers in UK6 (961 last) which gives me squashed toes with socks, half size up should fit better.

 

[arcfire]

Hi guys, need some help with sizing Yanko's 915 last and 962 last. I wear the following sizes from other makers:

Loake capital: UK7
Meermin Hiro: UK7.5
Vass F last: EUR40
AE 5 last: US8E

I also own a pair of Yanko loafers in UK6 (961 last) which gives me squashed toes with socks, half size up should fit better.

My guess is that you should be ok with UK6.5 on both lasts. Why not drop by SB to try them out instead of making guesses?

 

[Lexyyy]

My guess is that you should be ok with UK6.5 on both lasts. Why not drop by SB to try them out instead of making guesses?

Thanks for the reply. I'm looking to get the shoes from patine.pl with their Easter sales which puts their regular line at EUR195 (free shipping above EUR250). That's also why I haven't dropped by SB, to be fair to the business.

 

[jonleelk]

Thanks for the reply. I'm looking to get the shoes from patine.pl with their Easter sales which puts their regular line at EUR195 (free shipping above EUR250). That's also why I haven't dropped by SB, to be fair to the business.

Good for u bro!

 

[thundermarch]

Sorry for the late response TM, somehow not sure why I missed your reply on mobile. (currently on desktop then I saw it).

TBH, after your advice (and a few that shared their experiences) with CS, Yanko, and of course my current favorite and you always wore on your Instagram, AM.

Of course I love AM, and it's actually a great price during sales / end of season, about $450-500 for Aeris, and $550-600 for Argentum (IIRC Q4 2017 sales la).

Main thing is not sure have the size, model, and color of the AM I want during sales haha!

I guess AM - Aeris should be even better than CS 6903 GYW?

Thanks again!

They are both made in the same construction. With certain details and aesthetic features not seen in CS. I think it will be a matter of personal preferences and tastes.

I think it's best to work with your budget and your best fit.

 

[All in a Day]

Quick poll for views given recent discussions on a diverse range of brands and talks about fitting one's budget and seeking value.

For example (please adapt it to one's own budget): Would you go for 3 pairs of shoes at $1K budget each or 6 pairs at roughly $500 each?

No Tony Stark replies plss

 

[urbanturban]

Quick poll for views given recent discussions on a diverse range of brands and talks about fitting one's budget and seeking value.

For example (please adapt it to one's own budget): Would you go for 3 pairs of shoes at $1K budget each or 6 pairs at roughly $500 each?

No Tony Stark replies plss

I recently find the fact that having too many shoes (>20) a real chore to keep them cleaned and polished.
So less is more now for me. But still i cannot help myself...sometimes.

 

[thundermarch]

Quick poll for views given recent discussions on a diverse range of brands and talks about fitting one's budget and seeking value.

For example (please adapt it to one's own budget): Would you go for 3 pairs of shoes at $1K budget each or 6 pairs at roughly $500 each?

No Tony Stark replies plss

I would go for one pair of shoes at $3000 budget.
You can really see the difference.

 

[Shiro MS08th]

They are both made in the same construction. With certain details and aesthetic features not seen in CS. I think it will be a matter of personal preferences and tastes.

I think it's best to work with your budget and your best fit.

Thanks TM!

IF and when big sale come for Argentum and have my size, color, and model probably will go for that and no need think so much liao haha.

Sent from Workday using GAGT

 

[Shiro MS08th]

First day wearing the Barker Butcher boots (mid range of Barker series, but still made in England), budget boots for daily beater. Got it for 153 GBP inclusive of shipping and a pair of free happy socks.

I feel the quality, more of detailing might be lower than Loake 1880 series. (but at this discounted price nothing to complain I guess)

Sent from Workday using GAGT

 

[wiz]

No easy answer for me. I am looking at what I do not have, what I really want to have and how much I am willing to pay for that pair I do not have.

I will go for 1 pair of 1k, 1 pair of $800 and 2 pairs of $500. $200 in the pocket

Quick poll for views given recent discussions on a diverse range of brands and talks about fitting one's budget and seeking value.

For example (please adapt it to one's own budget): Would you go for 3 pairs of shoes at $1K budget each or 6 pairs at roughly $500 each?

No Tony Stark replies plss

 

[Shiro MS08th]

Quick poll for views given recent discussions on a diverse range of brands and talks about fitting one's budget and seeking value.

For example (please adapt it to one's own budget): Would you go for 3 pairs of shoes at $1K budget each or 6 pairs at roughly $500 each?

No Tony Stark replies plss

3 pairs at 1k each will be my choice, probably will cover what most people need for formal work usage.

Sent from Workday using GAGT

 

[Emospence]

Quick poll for views given recent discussions on a diverse range of brands and talks about fitting one's budget and seeking value.

For example (please adapt it to one's own budget): Would you go for 3 pairs of shoes at $1K budget each or 6 pairs at roughly $500 each?

No Tony Stark replies plss

3 @ $1k

$500 like not here not there