let me share with you some interesting and shocking information...before you spend half your salary on John Lobb RTW shoes etc. If you are really into good shoes then please read on, else just skip it TLDR.
before i start to explain my views, i would like to say that although i cannot pretend to be a newbie to shoemaking, neither am i an expert. all our knowledge comes from somewhere (usually experienced shoemakers) and mine comes from a few trusted online sources + my personal inspection.
my view is that in today's world the reputation of the shoemaker as an artisan (i.e. using highest quality materials) is more important than the construction. . there are terrible quality goodyear welted shoes and there can be very good italian blake rapid shoes.
(in case you are wondering the bata shoes seem a good deal and reasonable quality if you're not a snob, from the exterior)
These following pictures are taken by a crazy french shoe expert who deconstructed some of the most expensive ready to wear branded shoes out there:
site:
Démontages - De pied en cap (in french)
1. First picture is John Lobb ready to wear. It shows clearly that the welt is sewn onto a synthetic wall (white). Meaning it's a not 100% leather and wood natural shoe. Most people don't know that there are 2 John Lobb companies. The ready-to-wear John Lobb company, available in singapore, is owned by Hermes aka. a commercial brand.
The english heritage, family owned business by MR. LOBB does not sell ready to wear.
A cheap plastic heel stiffener is used in the making:
To the french expert this was "extremely disappointing" for the reputation of the name "JOHN LOBB".
moving on...
2. Crockett and Jones oxford
this part of the upper is "thermo formed" which causes "great displeasure" to him and its "poor quality is even less justifiable than the entry level of the house"...
3. Edward Green
same synthetic canvas wall as depicted in 1.
for others I can encourage you to read the website...
As we can see shoe construction is very complicated and it is very hard to say how good it is without completely destroying the shoe and examining the materials. Also please note that the above pictures may only apply to some models (but very expensive nonetheless).
Ask the maker to guarantee that it is "hand sewn and welted" before paying a premium. A true artisan like laszlo vass will guarantee it. A brand like louis vuitton "goodyear" will most likely try to sidestep it.
Another very high quality (but stiffer) construction is norwegian which is very recognisable, an example is the 2.5k pair of shoes at MBS santoni.
Very important must read!!
Before buying a gentleman's shoe (especially on sale) I highly recommend reading this guide with google translate:
Contrôler ses futurs souliers avant achat - De pied en cap
It will point out some of the obvious flaws.
Hope it has been helpful.
To Kiton: You and I know it is absurd to compare MMM to GG...unless you are only going for looks, he he