Working Shoe for Young Exec

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archangle13

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Thank you. These are cheap bata shoes. $80 each only but goodyear welted and leather is just OK only. I got rid of the stupid tag they sew on the heel pad.

These have been just briefly polished. Couldnt bother with a full shine as shoes tend to get stepped on when taking public transport.
sl1Fi3u.jpg

DQV5OUy.jpg

I think striker22 just won the Oscar award for cheating. Bata with goodyear welt...
 

tushar310

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i dont buy shoes from singapore.

all brands are overpriced here.

pedro doesnt last..and uncomfortable.

and no point buying shoes more than $500 when it rains so much and they ll probably get spoilt.
 

striker22

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If you did not award me the Oscar prize, your statement would be tantamount to slander. LOL.

Why is it so difficult for people to understand that shoes dun have to cost alot. Goodyear welting is just a simple manufacturing technique using machines, nothing special. Just that you have been duped by people in England, Japan, US and other places into thinking that GY welted shoes has to cost $300 and up. If you think GY welted shoes must cost $XXX figure, then go ahead and buy. GYW shoes are also made in China, Vietnam, Thailand, India and poorer European countries at very low cost. The only problem with cheap shoes is that they seldom use high grade calfskin.

The lao jiaos here who have far more expensive shoes have been recommending Bata for years, if anyone bothers reading the thread, to people who wants entry level shoes. I got them for 50% off list prices during Christmas shopping in December. The salesperson told me only a few pairs left. I think, two type of wingtip, one loafer and two captoe designs. The leather quality is not great but serve my needs well enough and if they spoil, I just throw away and buy another pair, no need to pay for overpriced re-soling services here. They don't state country of origin also so I believe it is India. If you don't believe Bata sells GY welted shoes, it's not mine or anybody's loss. It's not like I make money from recommending them.

No point buying good shoes when they are always being abused and stepped on in trains or kicked by people when going down buses. That's why after buying these for $80, I really regret spending $300 on Ed Et Al.

I took a pic of the sole of one of the pairs when new and these are not definitely not faux stitching with glued on soles like Pedro. I have since put a rubber on them as the leather sole is very slippery.
2b8k3DU.jpg


The shoe bag.
3vREfr3.jpg


They gave me a wrong box but the labels are from the same range.
QSZETNi.jpg
 

MuppeJack

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If you did not award me the Oscar prize, your statement would be tantamount to slander. LOL.

Why is it so difficult for people to understand that shoes dun have to cost alot. Goodyear welting is just a simple manufacturing technique using machines, nothing special. Just that you have been duped by people in England, Japan, US and other places into thinking that GY welted shoes has to cost $300 and up. If you think GY welted shoes must cost $XXX figure, then go ahead and buy. GYW shoes are also made in China, Vietnam, Thailand, India and poorer European countries at very low cost. The only problem with cheap shoes is that they seldom use high grade calfskin.

The lao jiaos here who have far more expensive shoes have been recommending Bata for years, if anyone bothers reading the thread, to people who wants entry level shoes. I got them for 50% off list prices during Christmas shopping in December. The salesperson told me only a few pairs left. I think, two type of wingtip, one loafer and two captoe designs. The leather quality is not great but serve my needs well enough and if they spoil, I just throw away and buy another pair, no need to pay for overpriced re-soling services here. They don't state country of origin also so I believe it is India. If you don't believe Bata sells GY welted shoes, it's not mine or anybody's loss. It's not like I make money from recommending them.

No point buying good shoes when they are always being abused and stepped on in trains or kicked by people when going down buses. That's why after buying these for $80, I really regret spending $300 on Ed Et Al.

I took a pic of the sole of one of the pairs when new and these are not definitely not faux stitching with glued on soles like Pedro. I have since put a rubber on them as the leather sole is very slippery.

That's pretty informative. Regarding the rubber, how much does it cost and where do you recommend to get it done? Have a pair of sneakers I bought online that has smooth slippery leather sole, wondering if I can put that kinda rubber as well.
 

-nzy90

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If you did not award me the Oscar prize, your statement would be tantamount to slander. LOL.

Why is it so difficult for people to understand that shoes dun have to cost alot. Goodyear welting is just a simple manufacturing technique using machines, nothing special. Just that you have been duped by people in England, Japan, US and other places into thinking that GY welted shoes has to cost $300 and up. If you think GY welted shoes must cost $XXX figure, then go ahead and buy. GYW shoes are also made in China, Vietnam, Thailand, India and poorer European countries at very low cost. The only problem with cheap shoes is that they seldom use high grade calfskin.

The lao jiaos here who have far more expensive shoes have been recommending Bata for years, if anyone bothers reading the thread, to people who wants entry level shoes. I got them for 50% off list prices during Christmas shopping in December. The salesperson told me only a few pairs left. I think, two type of wingtip, one loafer and two captoe designs. The leather quality is not great but serve my needs well enough and if they spoil, I just throw away and buy another pair, no need to pay for overpriced re-soling services here. They don't state country of origin also so I believe it is India. If you don't believe Bata sells GY welted shoes, it's not mine or anybody's loss. It's not like I make money from recommending them.

No point buying good shoes when they are always being abused and stepped on in trains or kicked by people when going down buses. That's why after buying these for $80, I really regret spending $300 on Ed Et Al.

I took a pic of the sole of one of the pairs when new and these are not definitely not faux stitching with glued on soles like Pedro. I have since put a rubber on them as the leather sole is very slippery.
2b8k3DU.jpg


The shoe bag.
3vREfr3.jpg


They gave me a wrong box but the labels are from the same range.
QSZETNi.jpg

How do you know its not blake construction? Many cheap shoes use blake construction anyway. For blake construction the soles are also sewn on but directly to the uppers. You will also see the thread when looking at the sole.

You can bring any shoe and ask the cobbler to do it for you.
 

regityoung

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How do you know its not blake construction? Many cheap shoes use blake construction anyway. For blake construction the soles are also sewn on but directly to the uppers. You will also see the thread when looking at the sole.

You can bring any shoe and ask the cobbler to do it for you.

Many expensive shoes use blake as well :)

For kicks, my guess is blake rapid. I think the outsole stitches are too close to the edge to be blake. There's a Bata across the street and I think I'll have a look see.

In any case, Goodyear or not, nice color; and if they fit well, they are good shoes!
 

archangle13

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If you did not award me the Oscar prize, your statement would be tantamount to slander. LOL.

Why is it so difficult for people to understand that shoes dun have to cost alot. Goodyear welting is just a simple manufacturing technique using machines, nothing special. Just that you have been duped by people in England, Japan, US and other places into thinking that GY welted shoes has to cost $300 and up. If you think GY welted shoes must cost $XXX figure, then go ahead and buy. GYW shoes are also made in China, Vietnam, Thailand, India and poorer European countries at very low cost. The only problem with cheap shoes is that they seldom use high grade calfskin.

The lao jiaos here who have far more expensive shoes have been recommending Bata for years, if anyone bothers reading the thread, to people who wants entry level shoes. I got them for 50% off list prices during Christmas shopping in December. The salesperson told me only a few pairs left. I think, two type of wingtip, one loafer and two captoe designs. The leather quality is not great but serve my needs well enough and if they spoil, I just throw away and buy another pair, no need to pay for overpriced re-soling services here. They don't state country of origin also so I believe it is India. If you don't believe Bata sells GY welted shoes, it's not mine or anybody's loss. It's not like I make money from recommending them.

No point buying good shoes when they are always being abused and stepped on in trains or kicked by people when going down buses. That's why after buying these for $80, I really regret spending $300 on Ed Et Al.

I took a pic of the sole of one of the pairs when new and these are not definitely not faux stitching with glued on soles like Pedro. I have since put a rubber on them as the leather sole is very slippery.
2b8k3DU.jpg


The shoe bag.
3vREfr3.jpg


They gave me a wrong box but the labels are from the same range.
QSZETNi.jpg


Either that's not Goodyear welted, or it ain't Bata. Since when did Bata get welting capabilities? In any case, there's no point in getting welted shoes if the uppers fail before you encounter sole detachment. Case in point -> Loake shoes
 

regityoung

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Maybe a good idea to have a bit of pictorial reference to the different constructions? I've not an expert by any means, so please correct these if I am wrong, and these are not to be done in details, other sites already done so.

Start with Goodyear. They will have the obvious outer stitch that attach the welt to the out-sole (sandwiching the mid-sole). And they will have a not-so-obvious inner stitch that attach the welt to the upper.

EP293583.jpg


EP293584.jpg


Note the really thin mm-thick layer on top of the mid/out sole? That's the welt. And "wheeling" (the jagged peaks/falls) on the welt is common.

But don't be fool by welt and wheeling. This blake shoes has both (faux) welt and wheeling, yet, it is a true-blue blake shoes.

EP293582.jpg


Next, the Blake Rapid. They will have stitching that attach the mid-sole to the outer sole (the stitch that round around the shoes).

EP293585.jpg


Note in this case, there is no substantial welt.

EP293586.jpg


And they will have stitch that run around the inside of the shoes, attaching the upper to the mid-sole.

EP293587.jpg


There are also other like the Norwegian Welt, which is a variation of Goodyear.

EP293588.jpg


And the Veldtschoen, which is a variation of Norwegian (with welt).

EP293589.jpg
 

mystic_moon69

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Hi there, WTS a pair of brand new in box Loake 1880 Anniversary Badminton 2 - Selling for $350. PM me if interested to buy.

UK Size 7
Fit / Width: G - Wide
Colour: Dark Brown Burnished Grain
 
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KohChris

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Hi guys im looking to buy a pair of brown shoes to go with my brown belt, caramel coloured pants and light blue shirt

edward-green-vs-john-lobb2-600x652.jpg




328429_mrp_fr_l.jpg


Please throw me all good recommendations.

Thank you
 

Kiton12345

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Hi guys im looking to buy a pair of brown shoes to go with my brown belt, caramel coloured pants and light blue shirt

edward-green-vs-john-lobb2-600x652.jpg




328429_mrp_fr_l.jpg


Please throw me all good recommendations.

Thank you


Gaziano & Girling are having their trunk show in Singapore on the 1st Feb for MTO and Bespoke range.


Just drop Kevin Seah an email to arrange appointment. There won't be any barrier to leather color, sole used, to even design.
 

regityoung

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I vote for the MMM simply because I am not a huge fan of brogues.

Hi guys im looking to buy a pair of brown shoes to go with my brown belt, caramel coloured pants and light blue shirt

edward-green-vs-john-lobb2-600x652.jpg




328429_mrp_fr_l.jpg


Please throw me all good recommendations.

Thank you
 

KennyDagrish

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let me share with you some interesting and shocking information...before you spend half your salary on John Lobb RTW shoes etc. If you are really into good shoes then please read on, else just skip it TLDR.

before i start to explain my views, i would like to say that although i cannot pretend to be a newbie to shoemaking, neither am i an expert. all our knowledge comes from somewhere (usually experienced shoemakers) and mine comes from a few trusted online sources + my personal inspection.

my view is that in today's world the reputation of the shoemaker as an artisan (i.e. using highest quality materials) is more important than the construction. . there are terrible quality goodyear welted shoes and there can be very good italian blake rapid shoes.

(in case you are wondering the bata shoes seem a good deal and reasonable quality if you're not a snob, from the exterior)

These following pictures are taken by a crazy french shoe expert who deconstructed some of the most expensive ready to wear branded shoes out there:

site: Démontages - De pied en cap (in french)

1. First picture is John Lobb ready to wear. It shows clearly that the welt is sewn onto a synthetic wall (white). Meaning it's a not 100% leather and wood natural shoe. Most people don't know that there are 2 John Lobb companies. The ready-to-wear John Lobb company, available in singapore, is owned by Hermes aka. a commercial brand.

The english heritage, family owned business by MR. LOBB does not sell ready to wear.

mur_rempli-9f6c3.jpg


A cheap plastic heel stiffener is used in the making:
contrefort-2-341a5.jpg


To the french expert this was "extremely disappointing" for the reputation of the name "JOHN LOBB".

moving on...

2. Crockett and Jones oxford

23-82d35.jpg


this part of the upper is "thermo formed" which causes "great displeasure" to him and its "poor quality is even less justifiable than the entry level of the house"...

3. Edward Green

E._Green_10.sml-0ea23.jpg


same synthetic canvas wall as depicted in 1.

for others I can encourage you to read the website...

As we can see shoe construction is very complicated and it is very hard to say how good it is without completely destroying the shoe and examining the materials. Also please note that the above pictures may only apply to some models (but very expensive nonetheless).

Ask the maker to guarantee that it is "hand sewn and welted" before paying a premium. A true artisan like laszlo vass will guarantee it. A brand like louis vuitton "goodyear" will most likely try to sidestep it.

Another very high quality (but stiffer) construction is norwegian which is very recognisable, an example is the 2.5k pair of shoes at MBS santoni.

Very important must read!!

Before buying a gentleman's shoe (especially on sale) I highly recommend reading this guide with google translate:

Contrôler ses futurs souliers avant achat - De pied en cap

It will point out some of the obvious flaws.

Hope it has been helpful.

To Kiton: You and I know it is absurd to compare MMM to GG...unless you are only going for looks, he he
 

Kiton12345

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I always wondered how does Vass stick to doing hand welted shoes all while offering them at a bargain of approx EUR390 or so.

Last I've heard rumors they were planning of moving away from hand welting due to the high demand of shoes. Not sure whether it has taken effect.

And yes, G&G and MMM are miles apart in terms of quality/construction. I'd much rather pay that little premium for G&Gs.

Though I'm not really sure how much the MTOs are going for during the Singaporean trunk show.
 

regityoung

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let me share with you some interesting and shocking information...before you spend half your salary on John Lobb RTW shoes etc. If you are really into good shoes then please read on, else just skip it TLDR.

before i start to explain my views, i would like to say that although i cannot pretend to be a newbie to shoemaking, neither am i an expert. all our knowledge comes from somewhere (usually experienced shoemakers) and mine comes from a few trusted online sources + my personal inspection.

my view is that in today's world the reputation of the shoemaker as an artisan (i.e. using highest quality materials) is more important than the construction. . there are terrible quality goodyear welted shoes and there can be very good italian blake rapid shoes.

(in case you are wondering the bata shoes seem a good deal and reasonable quality if you're not a snob, from the exterior)

These following pictures are taken by a crazy french shoe expert who deconstructed some of the most expensive ready to wear branded shoes out there:

site: Démontages - De pied en cap (in french)

1. First picture is John Lobb ready to wear. It shows clearly that the welt is sewn onto a synthetic wall (white). Meaning it's a not 100% leather and wood natural shoe. Most people don't know that there are 2 John Lobb companies. The ready-to-wear John Lobb company, available in singapore, is owned by Hermes aka. a commercial brand.

The english heritage, family owned business by MR. LOBB does not sell ready to wear.

mur_rempli-9f6c3.jpg


A cheap plastic heel stiffener is used in the making:
contrefort-2-341a5.jpg


To the french expert this was "extremely disappointing" for the reputation of the name "JOHN LOBB".

moving on...

2. Crockett and Jones oxford

23-82d35.jpg


this part of the upper is "thermo formed" which causes "great displeasure" to him and its "poor quality is even less justifiable than the entry level of the house"...

3. Edward Green

E._Green_10.sml-0ea23.jpg


same synthetic canvas wall as depicted in 1.

for others I can encourage you to read the website...

As we can see shoe construction is very complicated and it is very hard to say how good it is without completely destroying the shoe and examining the materials. Also please note that the above pictures may only apply to some models (but very expensive nonetheless).

Ask the maker to guarantee that it is "hand sewn and welted" before paying a premium. A true artisan like laszlo vass will guarantee it. A brand like louis vuitton "goodyear" will most likely try to sidestep it.

Another very high quality (but stiffer) construction is norwegian which is very recognisable, an example is the 2.5k pair of shoes at MBS santoni.

Very important must read!!

Before buying a gentleman's shoe (especially on sale) I highly recommend reading this guide with google translate:

Contrôler ses futurs souliers avant achat - De pied en cap

It will point out some of the obvious flaws.

Hope it has been helpful.

To Kiton: You and I know it is absurd to compare MMM to GG...unless you are only going for looks, he he

I think shoes construction is overrated. Do you really think you'll be wearing the same pair (or 5 pairs) of shoes for the next 20 years, which your feet will likely get longer and wider along the way?

Even if you do, how much style and fit are you willing to give up for a pair of shoes that may last 20years instead of 15?
 

archangle13

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I think shoes construction is overrated. Do you really think you'll be wearing the same pair (or 5 pairs) of shoes for the next 20 years, which your feet will likely get longer and wider along the way?

Even if you do, how much style and fit are you willing to give up for a pair of shoes that may last 20years instead of 15?

How will you be giving up on style? Shoes expand slightly also, so difference in fit over time isn't THAT bad...
 

regityoung

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How will you be giving up on style? Shoes expand slightly also, so difference in fit over time isn't THAT bad...

Understand that style is a personal thing but sometime people will boo boo (for example) Berluti because they are blake, and swayed to something else which may be quite different.

Or in the above example, say swayed from EG to Vass or from MMM to GG.

I hate to admit it, but it happened to me, LOL. My very first pair of what I considered as nice shoes is a pair of Alden PTB shell cordovan in Barrie last (get the hint? :O) based on recommendation by others in another forum.
 

archangle13

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Understand that style is a personal thing but sometime people will boo boo (for example) Berluti because they are blake, and swayed to something else which may be quite different.

Or in the above example, say swayed from EG to Vass or from MMM to GG.

I hate to admit it, but it happened to me, LOL. My very first pair of what I considered as nice shoes is a pair of Alden PTB shell cordovan in Barrie last (get the hint? :O) based on recommendation by others in another forum.

My first is a pair of black AEs. I feel you hahaha...

But I am convinced (by a popular style blogger) that style and fashion are two distinct entities. Fashion only lasts for so long, but style is evergreen.

So my solution is... style is for formal wear, so it is reasonable to get well-constructed shoes as you cannot escape work (save the wealthy peeps). Fashion should just be limited to casual attire. Thus I don't give a sh** if my glittery bling bling shoes lasts only for a year.
 

KennyDagrish

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Understand that style is a personal thing but sometime people will boo boo (for example) Berluti because they are blake, and swayed to something else which may be quite different.

Or in the above example, say swayed from EG to Vass or from MMM to GG.

Like I said, the construction type is not that important, but more importantly the techniques must be adhered to with no shortcuts in terms of materials or labour. Synthetic materials and glue are more prone to wear and tear failure.

How can you explain John Lobb Paris using a $1 plastic heel stiffener...:s22: But if Berluti uses blake (after all it makes for a lighter, more flexible, more elegant shoe) then it's ok so long as the quality is there.

Generally, budget wise, my opinion is don't overpay.

High-end bespoke: 4k +++ up (Lobb st james, spigola)

Ready to wear top-of-the-line: 1k + up, more for MTO (EG, GG...these, despite the views of the frenchman, are still very good...)

Entry level: 400 up (Loake)

The problem in singapore is that Berluti is pricing itself almost at the bespoke level (at their taka shop), while their quality is equal or more likely lower than a pair of C&J handgrade for example which can be had for 1k sgd + some extra shipping.

Berluti is factory-made no matter what the store attendants tell you. Partly manual labour, partly automated. In fact, they dont even have their own factory.

Or take for example Church's at Ion, which is almost as expensive as C&J, but uses corrected grain leather (just feel it, you'll know what I mean) courtesy of Prada.

Just saying, be aware of what you are paying for. And always check for structural flaws in the shoes if they are on discount especially.

In terms of style, I think a working man in his late twenties should own a pair of gentleman's shoes, which never go out of style.
 
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