*Official* Shiny Things club - Part 2

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BBCWatcher

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Does anyone in here hold TLT and can comfirm there is no 30% withholding tax?
The 30% withholding tax is discussed in TLT’s prospectus! So this is one particular fund that doesn’t report qualified interest income correctly for purposes of foreign (non-U.S.) investors and their tax optimization desires....

....And why is that? Well, possibly because Blackrock offers higher management cost funds listed in other jurisdictions, and so Blackrock has a proprietary interest in preventing non-U.S. investors from enjoying the lower costs available in the most competitive U.S. market. That’s just a guess, but it’s a good one.

Anyway, TLT is not tax appropriate for you.
 

Johnlinn

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IWDA and VWRD

Hi Shiny,

Although both IWDA and VWRD are similar but they do have certain advantages one over another. Would there be any disadvantage if I purchased both both IWDA and VWRD? Lets say my portfolio is 30% on VWRD and 30% on IWDA, any disadvantage?

Is there any deep rooted detailed explanation on why do we need to purchase your own country stocks, like sti etf and mbh bond?

Why don't we buy world bond etf?

Singapore is a country with no natural resources, very small market and may not be able to compete with other big countries in long terms, but it has a very strong currency and corruption free. Nevertheless, why do we need to buy local stocks as well instead of purely IWDA/VWRD and a bond etf? Wouldn't it be safer to diversify all of our money?


Thank you!:)
 

sweester

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Finally i130

It's not unique. Plenty of non-U.S. persons are married to U.S. persons.


How much time is "too much time"? I'm asking for a specific, tax-related reason.


If the odds are that you'll retire in the United States, there's no compelling reason to have much ES3 at all. Keep in mind that IWDA includes a dash of Singapore listed stocks already, and, moreover, Singapore listed stocks include what amounts to an Australian telco. (Singtel's revenues are more Australian than Singaporean, and that's the largest stock in the STI.)

Just before you move to the United States -- that's before, please note -- you'll want to come out of IWDA and move into SWISX, for example. Under current U.S. tax rules, a new immigrant (that'd be you) becomes subject to U.S. capital gains tax when stepping foot in the U.S. (ordinarily), and the cost basis is set to when you acquired the asset, not the date of entry into the U.S. So you very much want to reset the cost basis on any appreciated assets before you land, and switch over to on shore analogs. IWDA maps to SWISX quite nicely, and you should be able to make that shift via Schwab's office in Singapore before you get on the plane to immigrate.

Off shore funds are not appropriate for U.S. persons, and I could probably use stronger language. Your spouse should avoid them, and you should come out of them before immigrating.


Yes, for tax optimization reasons across the household you should be assuming the potentially highest yielding assets, so piling into IWDA (or VWRD) makes sense. Your spouse might want to take on the more conservative elements of your household investment portfolio...except for her U.S. Individual Retirement Account (IRA) contributions.

OK, I need to explain that one. I'm assuming she files her U.S. taxes as "Married Filing Separately." You actually have the option to join up with her and file a joint U.S. tax return ("Married Filing Jointly"), but it's a little complicated and let's leave that aside. If you're real curious about it, I can explain it later. OK, assuming she's Married Filing Separately and living in Singapore, she'll undoubtedly take what's called the "Foreign Income Exclusion." If she's getting a relatively high, or higher, income from work that's above her Foreign Income Exclusion (and her Foreign Housing Exclusion), then she is eligible to make at least nondeductible Traditional IRA contributions. And she should. Traditional IRAs can be rolled over into Roth IRAs, and most probably she should also do that. Her IRAs should also hold the potentially highest yielding assets, since those IRAs are U.S. tax advantaged.

If she has a relatively high income from work and is starting to surpass the Foreign Income Exclusion, then it's a really good idea if she pays housing expenses, specifically things like rent and the electricity bill. That's the stuff that boosts her Foreign Housing Exclusion, and that's helpful.

Your wife is subject to an annual gift limit of US$152,000, excluding her payment of your medical, educational, and some other expenses which are generally unlimited. Meaning, if she gives you US$152,000 (or more), or some equivalent, then she has to file a U.S. gift tax return. She isn't taxed on that gift, but it does dig into her lifetime estate tax exemption. But the U.S. estate tax exemption is US$11.2 million currently, and that's a lot. She can leave up to that amount to you (or to anyone), estate tax free.

What else....? If she's a CPF member, let me know since that's really odd for U.S. persons. If she's getting life insurance from her employer then the portion of the life insurance benefit above US$50,000 -- the premium value for that part of the insurance -- has to be treated as U.S. taxable, earned income, unless she puts a letter on file with her employer indicating that the life insurance benefit in excess of US$50,000 be paid to a U.S. IRS qualified charity. I think employer-provided life insurance is also taxable in Singapore, at least to some extent, so maybe that's not a problem.

She'll want to check her U.S. Social Security earnings history. In particular, she ought to check whether she's hit the 10 year/40 quarter credit mark and is qualified for Medicare. If she has reached that point -- if she sees in her online statement that she has qualified for Medicare -- then that's good news for both of you. That'll mean, in addition to U.S. Medicare eligibility at age 65, she qualifies for a future Social Security retirement benefit (perhaps a modest one). And even if you don't have enough quarter credits to qualify for retirement benefits on your own, you will still qualify for a spousal benefit which is ordinarily half her monthly benefit. (See how it pays to marry an American? :D)

I would hang onto any low cost U.S. financial products, if possible. If she has a low cost U.S. credit card, she can add you as an additional/supplemental card holder, and that's probably a good idea since that'll keep a U.S. credit history going for you, if you otherwise don't have a U.S. financial footprint.

If you were assigned a U.S. Social Security Number (probably), it's yours for life. Don't forget it. SSNs are useful.

It takes several months, and often a year or more, for a U.S. citizen to bring his/her spouse into the United States as a permanent resident. If you think you might need to move back to the U.S. with your spouse on a shorter timeline than that, then your spouse could file a USCIS I-130 petition to sponsor you for immigration, now. Then, when the I-130 is approved (after a few months), all she needs to do is contact the U.S. National Visa Center at least once every 12 months (every 11 months works) to keep the approved visa application "on ice," and stop the NVC from automatically closing the file. That can be done indefinitely. When you're ready to move to the U.S., you then use the approved I-130 and proceed to the visa processing stage.

If you have an approved I-130 "on ice," and if you travel to the U.S. for a short stay with ESTA visa waiver privileges, you might get a question when you enter about that status. Something like, "Are you moving to the U.S. today?" You just need to be clear that you're NOT entering the United States with the intent to immigrate on that trip, but, sometime in the future, only after your visa is approved, you will immigrate. As long as you can keep all that straight and answering truthfully (if that's the truth), you're fine.

If you decide to buy a home in Singapore, or anywhere else for that matter, you have to give some thought whether your spouse should be co-owner or not. Sometimes you and she don't have a choice, with a mortgage lender and/or the U.S. IRS deciding that ownership question for you. But just be aware that U.S. persons are subject to U.S. capital gains tax, and that includes real estate gains. Fortunately there's often a US$250,000 capital gains exemption on a primary home, and that's calculated net of costs. Stamp duty, remodeling, closing costs, etc. are legitimate costs. Half a primary home means the after cost gain would have to be above US$500,000 to drive some taxable capital gains, and that's a lot, but it's not an astoundingly high number.


I don't think so, but she'll want to move IWDA into the U.S. in the event you predecease her and your estate passes to her, simply because off shore funds are not appropriate for U.S. persons. (The U.S. tax treatment is less favorable, and I'm being a bit kind.) The U.S. does not have an inheritance tax, so no tax is owed with the transfer itself. I believe the cost basis is reset when the estate passes from you to her, so that's good. She will have to file a piece of paper that simply reports the gift/inheritance from a foreign person (you), but that's all it is (a report).

Hi BBC Watcher and Shiny,

Thanks for your lengthy replies. I've just sent in i130 today. I've been buying IWDA 40%, CSPX 40%, LQDA 20% on a monthly basis for the last 6 months. I also have about 10% of ES3 against the total of IWDA, CSPX and LQDA.

Q1. You recommended to exit IWDA and getting SWISX before I leave. I will look into that but I am also thinking of starting a Vanguard Roth IRA and get Vanguard ETF when I get to the other side. What do you think?

Q2. What about for CSPX, LQDA and ES3? I guess I can dispose them when i130 and Visa are approved, move and then start investing from the other side of the pond.

Q3. ES3 aside, during this waiting stage, does it still make sense to keep buying IWDA, CSPX & LQDA?

Q4. With the move, I might need some of the investment money for cars and house, should I sell some of the investment now for this what if scenario.

I do have SSN, US credit card, TD Ameritrade Roth and Traditional IRAs. I was in the States for about 12 years previously.

My wife is a homemaker over here doing some part time job, not much in her CPF. We have a HDB that is still under minimum occupation period for the next 3 years.
 

BBCWatcher

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Q1. You recommended to exit IWDA and getting SWISX before I leave. I will look into that but I am also thinking of starting a Vanguard Roth IRA and get Vanguard ETF when I get to the other side. What do you think?
You’re not going to be able to open a Vanguard account until you’re established in the U.S. I mentioned Schwab’s SWISX because you can make that conversion before you leave, via Schwab in Singapore. Then just notify Schwab of your new U.S. personhood (i.e. file an IRS W-9 form with them) after you arrive in the U.S.

Q2. What about for CSPX, LQDA and ES3? I guess I can dispose them when i130 and Visa are approved, move and then start investing from the other side of the pond.
Correct. Those are all offshore funds, and they are tax inappropriate for U.S. persons. The analog for ES3 inside the U.S. is EWS, if you wish to maintain Singapore stock holdings specifically.

Q3. ES3 aside, during this waiting stage, does it still make sense to keep buying IWDA, CSPX & LQDA?
That’s a good question. If you switch to U.S. onshore funds “too early” then you’re going to get whacked with some higher dividend taxes. So I think I’d just keep doing what you’re doing, then make your “big shift” shortly before emigrating to the U.S.

Q4. With the move, I might need some of the investment money for cars and house, should I sell some of the investment now for this what if scenario.
No, but that might be a reason to buy short-term U.S. Treasuries via Schwab in Singapore in place of your accumulation of IWDA, CSPX, and/or LQDA. (By the way, IWDA includes everything in CSPX. So I’m not sure why you’re buying both.)

I do have SSN, US credit card, TD Ameritrade Roth and Traditional IRAs. I was in the States for about 12 years previously.
Awesome. Please do take a look at Traditional IRA to Roth IRA conversion/rollover. That might be a reasonable thing to do, especially if you’re going to be in a low tax bracket in the year you convert.

My wife is a homemaker over here doing some part time job, not much in her CPF. We have a HDB that is still under minimum occupation period for the next 3 years.
CPF is quite interesting for U.S. persons. Here’s a quick rundown:

1. All CPF interest is U.S. reportable and taxable, every year. (Sorry!)

2. The employer’s contribution share to CPF has to be counted as earned income, and (oddly enough) it cannot be excluded via IRS Form 2555, the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion (FEIE). So it’s U.S. taxable, every year. But that’s actually a good thing, especially for a part-time worker, because that employer contribution (up to the allowed contribution limit) can be pushed into a U.S. IRA, such as a Roth IRA.

3. The CPF account is FinCEN Form 114 and IRS Form 8938 reportable, assuming of course the individual meets the normal filing thresholds for those forms. FinCEN Form 114 is very common since the threshold is quite low.

4. Under current U.S. Social Security Windfall Elimination Provision (WEP) rules, there may be some financial merit in withdrawing all CPF funds (if allowed) strictly before the CPF minimum pension age, which is currently age 65. However, I expect Congress will change the WEP rules within the next few years. Also, the WEP doesn’t apply at all for most people who clock 30+ years of U.S. work history, and the WEP won’t apply much for somebody with relatively low CPF balances. The WEP reduces U.S. Social Security retirement benefits in a crude attempt to coordinate with foreign pensions.

....OK, I’ll stop there. Hope that helps.
 

Boiboi321

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Option 2. Split it into a few tranches over a few months (not a few years; that’s too long).

Option 1 is technically the best option (because markets tend to go up over the long term, so you’d rather be invested than have any cash sitting around). But if you drop the whole lump in, and the markets go down the next day, you’re going to feel pretty bad! Not unjustifiably, either; but the absolute worst thing you could do is invest, see the market go down a bit or up a bit, and then pull all your money out because you’re terrified of being invested.

Investing over a few months lets you get used to having money in the market, and you win both ways, psychologically. If the market goes up, you can say “great, I bought some and it went up! Time to buy some more!”; if the market goes down, you can say “great, now I can buy some at a lower price, I get more stars for my money!”. Both of those are totally fine, and they’re much better than saying “oh no I want to sell everything and hide under the bed”.

To your other points:
Point 4: leave it in the bank. Don’t try to be a clever-clogs with your cash management; that’s my job :p
Point 5: Whatever currency it’s in right now, just leave it there and convert it when you need it.

Hello, I just have a follow-up question on ST's response to kingboonz's query. To provide some background: I am a new investor, aged 28, with substantial savings, and looking for a way to deploy my savings into the market, primarily in IWDA.

I understand that we are unable to time the market, and broadly subscribe to that belief. But, I still have concerns in investing a substantial war chest via a lump sum, or via DCA over a couple of months, in this current bull market.

The reason I have this concern is because if we take a look at, for example, the historical performance of the S&P 500 (yes, I also understand that historical performance does not indicate future performance, but for the sake of argument let us use historical performance for the time being), if one had invested a lump sum near the peak of the market then (sometime in late 2007), that person's investment would have doubled in value, if he had held his investment through till today. On the other hand, a different individual, who had invested a lump sum at the trough of the market (sometime in late 2008, early 2009), would have seen his/her investment triple/quadruple in value, if he/she had held his/her investment through till today. The difference in returns would be even more pronounced over a longer investing time horizon.

So my questions really are these:


  • Is the recommended approach still to deploy this substantial sum into the market now, either by way of a lump sum or by DCA-ing over a period of X months? The reasons for this approach being that: (i) you can't time the market; (ii) the next recession may not be as bad as the GFC and consequently prices may not fall as much as they did during GFC. Are there any other reasons?

  • Given that I have a long investing time horizon, would it not make sense for me to try to at least time the initial entry of these substantial savings, so as to maximise my returns? While I may not be able to time the entry exactly, I could perhaps begin DCA-ing when market sentiment starts to turn negative, allowing me to buy more shares with each month. In the meantime, I could place this sum in high-interest bank accounts, and other relatively liquid investments, such as SSBs.

    Another relevant point is that I am also looking at DCA-ing a portion of my salary (~2k to 3k) into IWDA now, so I am not completely out of the market.

Appreciate your replies, and thanks in advance!
 

celtosaxon

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So I was doing some CPF LIFE simulations today. First I took the FRS at 55 and added the 4% interest earned up to 65. From 65 I assumed that balance continued to earn 4% each year but also deducted the Standard payment expected from CPF LIFE to see how long it can be sustained (again, this is just a simulation for comparison only). The money runs out at age 91 which seems longer than I expected. Then I changed it to 5% earned from 65 onwards and it doesn’t run out until age 99. Basically I’m trying to get a sense of the value by comparing how alternate investments with various rates of return hold up to similar drawdowns. I haven’t seen any similar comparisons done so far. Does it seem like a fair comparison? Do these results seem accurate? The reason I ask is because eventually a decision has to be made whether to minimize it using BRS or maximize it using ERS, given the alternate investment options that could be made instead.
 
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Calpha K

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Hi all,

Would the following ETFs have a place in our portfolios?

Vanguard FTSE Emerging Markets ETF (VWO)
KraneShares CSI China Internet ETF (KWEB)

What are the Pros and Cons?
 

Shiny Things

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Hi guys. Just to clarify. Noob questions. But still learning everyday.

On interactive brokers.
1. All 3 tickers are all on LSEETF. But why does only 2 of them appear with the word c? Next to the price.


2. What does a white font means and a slightly darkened font means?

3. How do I know if a stock price shown is in which currency? I understand I can find it on LSE website. Is that enough?

5. Am I right to say that the only difference between CRPA and CORP is that one is dividend accumulating, one is dividend distributing? There are no differences in fees, taxes, and etc for a average Singaporean.

6. I understand that there is a GBP hedged, USD hedged version of CORP. Why do bond funds not hedge themselves against both GBP and USD? Isn't two better than one?

7. Should I go for a currency hedged version of CORP since I am retiring in Singapore? I would really love no exposure to USD/GBP.

8. I understand that LSE trading hours start from 8 am to 4.30 pm. Why does the 15 minutes candle charts on Interactive brokers show timings from 11.45 to 17.45?

  • 1: ”c” means that’s the closing price from last night. If that doesn’t appear, the price in that column is the last traded price.
  • 2: I think that’s just the tiger-striping on the rows. Not sure though.
  • 3: I think you can right-click on the contract row and select “contract info” or something like that. That will have the listing currency.
  • 5: Yep, that’s it.
  • 6 and 7: What “hedged” means is that the fund owns bonds listed in a bunch of different currencies; “USD hedged” means the fund hedges the currency risk on that bunch of different currencies, so the returns are as if all those bonds were denominated in GBP. You do not want to bother with currency-hedged ETFs.
  • 8: Huh, IDK. That’s weird.


I see, do you have any info on Saxo?

I did some calculation, and found that it's cheaper to use Saxo until I reach a certain amount, before jumping to IB. Is it worth doing so?
Saxo has started charging custody fees for holding overseas stocks, and that’s an immediate no.

Which short term bond ETFs should I target then? Preferably with the 15% DWT.

the time to maturity for CORP seems to be too long to be immune from US interest rates. (6.7 years)

I still want to put more into bonds to hedge against a possible downturn meanwhile.
You seem to be a little indecisive about what you’re going to invest in? First it was “I’m going to put everything into IWDA and leave it alone”, which is great; now you’re talking about putting stuff into CORP and trying to trade bonds? What’s your investment goal?

Would there be any disadvantage if I purchased both both IWDA and VWRD? Lets say my portfolio is 30% on VWRD and 30% on IWDA, any disadvantage?

Yes - you’re running up two sets of transaction fees for basically-identical ETFs. Just pick one.

Is there any deep rooted detailed explanation on why do we need to purchase your own country stocks, like sti etf and mbh bond?

Because if you’re retiring in your own country, you’ll need your own country’s currency to spend in your retirement. Having a decent-sized allocation to your own country’s stocks means that you won’t miss out if your local currency rallies sharply; without that, a big rally in the local currency just before you retire would reduce the amount you’ve got to retire on.

Why don't we buy world bond etf?

Two reasons. Firstly, global bonds give you a lot of currency risk for a very small extra yield pickup and no real probability of capital gains. Secondly, you generally want bonds when you’re close to retirement; and when you’re close to retirement is when you shouldn’t be taking much risk with your portfolio. Currency risk is a pretty big risk; it doesn’t make sense to take that risk when what you need is a boring, stable portfolio and a steady stream of income in your own currency.

Q1. You recommended to exit IWDA and getting SWISX before I leave. I will look into that but I am also thinking of starting a Vanguard Roth IRA and get Vanguard ETF when I get to the other side. What do you think?

Q2. What about for CSPX, LQDA and ES3? I guess I can dispose them when i130 and Visa are approved, move and then start investing from the other side of the pond.

Q3. ES3 aside, during this waiting stage, does it still make sense to keep buying IWDA, CSPX & LQDA?

Q4. With the move, I might need some of the investment money for cars and house, should I sell some of the investment now for this what if scenario.
  1. You can buy ETFs or mutual funds inside a Vanguard Roth, either is fine. But why not just reuse your TDAM IRA accounts? I mean, I love Vanguard, but you can save yourself a bit of work here, and TDAM is fine.
  2. Yep. Why do you need a specific allocation to US and Singaporean stocks, though?
  3. Yep. BBCW should probably step in on this in case there’s a 30-day rule or something, but I think the right thing to do is to keep buying them until the day before you get on the plane; flog them that day; and immediately buy the US-listed equivalents. You don’t want to be out of the market for too long.
  4. If you’re thinking of buying a car and/or house in the next couple of years, that money shouldn’t be in stocks; it should be in the bank already.

I understand that we are unable to time the market, and broadly subscribe to that belief. But, I still have concerns in investing a substantial war chest via a lump sum, or via DCA over a couple of months, in this current bull market.

The reason I have this concern is because if we take a look at, for example, the historical performance of the S&P 500 (yes, I also understand that historical performance does not indicate future performance, but for the sake of argument let us use historical performance for the time being), if one had invested a lump sum near the peak of the market then (sometime in late 2007), that person's investment would have doubled in value, if he had held his investment through till today. On the other hand, a different individual, who had invested a lump sum at the trough of the market (sometime in late 2008, early 2009), would have seen his/her investment triple/quadruple in value, if he/she had held his/her investment through till today. The difference in returns would be even more pronounced over a longer investing time horizon.

So what you’re saying is, if someone buys at a low price, they’re going to make more money than if they’d bought at a high price. This is true, but also sort of trivial.

And more importantly, it's not possible to know in advance whether prices are near their lows or near their highs. People thought in 2009 that the SPX was going to drop to 450, so when it was at 666 they thought it was "high"... but it turned out to be the ding-dong low. It wasn't possible to know in advance that 666 was the low.

Heck, I thought when it tanked below 1000 in October 2008 that that was "low", so that was when I started buying stocks. But it wasn't - it still had another 30% to go!

  • Is the recommended approach still to deploy this substantial sum into the market now, either by way of a lump sum or by DCA-ing over a period of X months? The reasons for this approach being that: (i) you can't time the market; (ii) the next recession may not be as bad as the GFC and consequently prices may not fall as much as they did during GFC. Are there any other reasons?


  • Also, because if you’re methodically dollar-cost-averaging, you’re going to be buying the lows anyway.

    [*]Given that I have a long investing time horizon, would it not make sense for me to try to at least time the initial entry of these substantial savings, so as to maximise my returns?
    The problem is that you don’t know whether right now is close to a top or halfway up a huge run-up. US stocks went straight up and to the right for about eighteen years between 1982 and 2000 (give or take the spew in 1987 and the Gulf-War-related dip in the early nineties), and fully half of that came in the last five years of the bull market, after it was already thirteen years old.

    To give you some perspective on dates: if we lined up 1982 and 2009, the two bottoms of the bear markets, we’d be in 1991-ish right now. US equities basically went up 4x in a straight line from 1991 to 2000. You’ve got no way of knowing whether stocks will go up or go down, and if you try to hold back some cash and wait for a dip, there’s a substantial chance you’re not going to see a “buyable” dip.

    Better to just set a rule and stick to it.
 
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BBCWatcher

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Would the following ETFs have a place in our portfolios?
Vanguard FTSE Emerging Markets ETF (VWO)
For non-U.S. persons, including those who are resident in Singapore, no. That’s a U.S. domiciled fund, so there are tax-related issues. EIMI is a better match.

KraneShares CSI China Internet ETF (KWEB)
Same problem, and it’s also a rather expensive fund. I don’t have a substitute recommendation, in part because I don’t recommend overweighting stocks in one country or region, with the possible exception of modest overweighting in your country of retirement.
 

kingboonz

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  • You seem to be a little indecisive about what you’re going to invest in? First it was “I’m going to put everything into IWDA and leave it alone”, which is great; now you’re talking about putting stuff into CORP and trying to trade bonds? What’s your investment goal?


  • Hi Shiny. My goal is a long term passive investment until retirement to allow me to focus on what matters in real life. I wish to retire in Singapore, but want an option to retire in Australia.

    My psychology is one of a very cautious and perfectionist investor, but yet easily changes his mind in a downturn. So I am designing a program of investing where I can be mentally satisfied and stick to it for life. A portfolio that satisfies is one that I can tell myself, I am giving myself the best long term returns in this category of risks I am taking.

    I have a lump sum of money to invest (~$1m), and I was going to go according to the formula in your book:
    110-age in stocks, the rest in bonds, 50% in overseas stocks.

    29dlzRz.png


    When I saw it, I wasn't satisfied with how much I was exposed to the Singapore market. (77.76%) Singapore for me meant low yields and also too much exposure to a single country (currency risks and diversification) The risks I was taking on for low yields didn't make sense to me. I decided to tweak the formulas to get:

    D6uhz3X.png


    But for me, having 81% in equities meant too much exposure to a market downturn. I decided to add some overseas corp bonds via CRPA to return downturn risks. Why overseas? I went for it when I saw the higher returns compared to SG bonds. I decided to go for SG corp bonds (MBH) due to higher returns.

    So after more tweaking, I ended up with this, which is likely to be my final plan.

    40% exposure to singapore, 60% to overseas,
    63% in stocks, 37% in bonds.

    hXIXKlU.png


    I think I am nearly at the end of this psychological battle with myself... :(:( Just hoping for the seal of approval from more experienced people here to see if everything checks out fine in term of risks and returns.

    When I see more new ETFs being discussed in here, I tend to think more about tweaking more to include EIMI and VWRD and more. Plus it took me 4 months just to come close to finalising a plan. (after reading all the investment strategies out there) The only move I made so far is to top up my CPF SA to FRS of 171k, which I will consider a SG bond... Help! I am so indecisive.

    Put it straight, I just need someone whom I trust to tell me the exact steps of what to do. (Spoonfeeding) You book was awesome but somehow I get the nagging feeling that it isn't tailored to my profile of investor, hence the obsessive tweaking. Furthermore there is the looming problem of Feds raising their interest rates, which will affect bonds... which cause me to consider shorter term bonds...

    Are there any tools to backtest all these strategies as well?
 
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celtosaxon

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4. Under current U.S. Social Security Windfall Elimination Provision (WEP) rules, there may be some financial merit in withdrawing all CPF funds (if allowed) strictly before the CPF minimum pension age, which is currently age 65. However, I expect Congress will change the WEP rules within the next few years. Also, the WEP doesn’t apply at all for most people who clock 30+ years of U.S. work history, and the WEP won’t apply much for somebody with relatively low CPF balances. The WEP reduces U.S. Social Security retirement benefits in a crude attempt to coordinate with foreign pensions.

....OK, I’ll stop there. Hope that helps.

My wages in Singapore (for the last 21 years) are paid by a US employer who signed an agreement with the SSA that requires participation for any US citizen they employ in Singapore, so I believe this should count as US work history. I also believe that my nonresident alien spouse who participates in CPF and has no US work history will be eligible for spousal benefits without WEP because the benefits are coming from my work history. Of course, if we continue to live overseas in retirement we need to have lived in the US for at least 5 years or return to the US every 6 months for her to get these benefits. We will tick that box when kids go to college in a few years. I also wonder if the spousal benefit will qualify her for exemption from CPF LIFE so we can leverage the high CPF interest rates on the fixed income side of our portfolio needs.
 

Fuchsia

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Hey all, I'm looking to invest in IWDA through Stanchart and have a few questions:

1) About the W-8BEN form, what does "(a) not effectively connected with the conduct of a trade or business in the United States," mean exactly? I derive most of my income from the U.S., technically as a freelancer.

2) I read a few posts about using TransferWise to minimize the FX rates - what's the process like? This sounds ideal for me because I receive my income in USD, converted into SGD directly through TransferWise. I also happen to have a TransferWise borderless account so I could receive USD in that account directly.

Thanks! :)
 

bleach87

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Question

Hi all,

New comer with intention to invest about 1k per month.
Which platform should i use? i read that Standard Chartered is strongly recommended, whats the diff between SC and dbs vickers?
 

bobobob

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Hi Shiny. My goal is a long term passive investment until retirement to allow me to focus on what matters in real life. I wish to retire in Singapore, but want an option to retire in Australia.

My psychology is one of a very cautious and perfectionist investor, but yet easily changes his mind in a downturn. So I am designing a program of investing where I can be mentally satisfied and stick to it for life. A portfolio that satisfies is one that I can tell myself, I am giving myself the best long term returns in this category of risks I am taking.

I have a lump sum of money to invest (~$1m), and I was going to go according to the formula in your book:
110-age in stocks, the rest in bonds, 50% in overseas stocks.

29dlzRz.png


When I saw it, I wasn't satisfied with how much I was exposed to the Singapore market. (77.76%) Singapore for me meant low yields and also too much exposure to a single country (currency risks and diversification) The risks I was taking on for low yields didn't make sense to me. I decided to tweak the formulas to get:

D6uhz3X.png


But for me, having 81% in equities meant too much exposure to a market downturn. I decided to add some overseas corp bonds via CRPA to return downturn risks. Why overseas? I went for it when I saw the higher returns compared to SG bonds. I decided to go for SG corp bonds (MBH) due to higher returns.

So after more tweaking, I ended up with this, which is likely to be my final plan.

40% exposure to singapore, 60% to overseas,
63% in stocks, 37% in bonds.

hXIXKlU.png


I think I am nearly at the end of this psychological battle with myself... :(:( Just hoping for the seal of approval from more experienced people here to see if everything checks out fine in term of risks and returns.

When I see more new ETFs being discussed in here, I tend to think more about tweaking more to include EIMI and VWRD and more. Plus it took me 4 months just to come close to finalising a plan. (after reading all the investment strategies out there) The only move I made so far is to top up my CPF SA to FRS of 171k, which I will consider a SG bond... Help! I am so indecisive.

Put it straight, I just need someone whom I trust to tell me the exact steps of what to do. (Spoonfeeding) You book was awesome but somehow I get the nagging feeling that it isn't tailored to my profile of investor, hence the obsessive tweaking. Furthermore there is the looming problem of Feds raising their interest rates, which will affect bonds... which cause me to consider shorter term bonds...

Are there any tools to backtest all these strategies as well?

You should consider contacting Shiny for consulting. It will cost you money but it sounds like it will be worth it, considering your psychology.
 

mattzakh

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Saxo has started charging custody fees for holding overseas stocks, and that’s an immediate no.

Thanks Shiny!

Regarding IB, you mentioned the currency conversion fee is practically zero. Is it because the conversion fee they charge (can be found on their website, but I'm not sure whether I can put link here) is counted toward fulfilling the min $10 monthly fee?

Another thing is about changing broker. If I want to change broker, am I right to say that there are two ways to do so:
1. Transfer stocks, in which some fees may charged.
2. Liquidate stocks and buy again , in which forex spread and commissions may be charged?

And, what's your take on changing broker?
 
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fmradio

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EIMI for YTD doesn't look very attractive. Is IWDA 50% and EIMI 50% a good portfolio as a regular monthly contribution of a few hundred dollars with IBKR? I do not intend to go into ES3 as I have to manage it with another brokerage and CDP and having money all over the place with different brokerage. I think CPF fixed interest is good enough for a so called Singapore bond although I have decades to go before I actually touch it. Haha. Investment aim is maybe just to beat inflation and better returns than bank interest maybe over 10 years.
 
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makav31i

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EIMI for YTD doesn't look very attractive. Is IWDA 50% and EIMI 50% a good portfolio as a regular monthly contribution of a few hundred dollars with IBKR? I do not intend to go into ES3 as I have to manage it with another brokerage and CDP and having money all over the place with different brokerage. I think CPF fixed interest is good enough for a so called Singapore bond although I have decades to go before I actually touch it. Haha. Investment aim is maybe just to beat inflation and better returns than bank interest maybe over 10 years.

If you only putting a few hundred a month, might as well go with SCB...You don't need to worry about CDP or any other brokerage as SCB can allow you to buy ES3, IWDA and EIMI...
 

BBCWatcher

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My wages in Singapore (for the last 21 years) are paid by a US employer who signed an agreement with the SSA that requires participation for any US citizen they employ in Singapore, so I believe this should count as US work history.
It does indeed. And it's quite unusual, so congratulations.

celtosaxon said:
I also believe that my nonresident alien spouse who participates in CPF and has no US work history will be eligible for spousal benefits without WEP because the benefits are coming from my work history.
Yes, that's my understanding.

celtosaxon said:
Of course, if we continue to live overseas in retirement we need to have lived in the US for at least 5 years or return to the US every 6 months for her to get these benefits.
If your spouse is a citizen of Singapore (for example), that's correct. If your spouse is a citizen of Germany, Greece, Ireland, Israel, Italy, or Japan, then the 5 year U.S. residence requirement doesn't apply. (And that's the current list; it could be expanded over time.)

celtosaxon said:
I also wonder if the spousal benefit will qualify her for exemption from CPF LIFE so we can leverage the high CPF interest rates on the fixed income side of our portfolio needs.
Possibly, but probably not under current CPF rules.

1) About the W-8BEN form, what does "(a) not effectively connected with the conduct of a trade or business in the United States," mean exactly? I derive most of my income from the U.S., technically as a freelancer.
Please take a look at the IRS's guidance on what "Effectively Connected Income" means, then post a follow-up if you still have questions.

Fuchsia said:
2) I read a few posts about using TransferWise to minimize the FX rates - what's the process like? This sounds ideal for me because I receive my income in USD, converted into SGD directly through TransferWise. I also happen to have a TransferWise borderless account so I could receive USD in that account directly.
If you're planning to invest in IWDA then why not open an Interactive Brokers account and use that account for your foreign currency conversion/transfer, too?

EIMI for YTD doesn't look very attractive.
Isn't EIMI more attractive if its price has fallen? Or do you only like to buy anything -- bread, milk, homes, cars, smartphones, etc. -- after its price has increased as much as possible? :D

Is IWDA 50% and EIMI 50% a good portfolio as a regular monthly contribution of a few hundred dollars with IBKR? I do not intend to go into ES3 as I have to manage it with another brokerage and CDP and having money all over the place with different brokerage. I think CPF fixed interest is good enough for a so called Singapore bond although I have decades to go before I actually touch it. Haha. Investment aim is maybe just to beat inflation and better returns than bank interest maybe over 10 years.
No, I would not split IWDA and EIMI 50-50. See below....

If you only putting a few hundred a month, might as well go with SCB...You don't need to worry about CDP or any other brokerage as SCB can allow you to buy ES3, IWDA and EIMI...
That's not a great idea either at a few hundred dollars per month. How about the single fund VWRD? VWRD is equivalent to a combination of about 90% IWDA and about 10% EIMI, but it's one trade versus two. Then batch up the purchases and make them bimonthly (6 times per year), for example. Or quarterly.
 

Calpha K

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Hi all,

Are there any things to look out for when it comes to buying FROM THE Hongkong Exchange, and where ETF is denominated in HKD?
 
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