Gundam Modeling Official thread - Part 5

[tanyieern]

After using 1 whole bottle of paint, experimenting with 2 different types of Spray painting, i find that the mass painting using cardboard is defintely better. or at least until i fix this problem:

U see that? EVERY SINGLE FREAKING PIECE that i used the satay stick method had its paint chipped off. due to paint that stuck to the clip. Unless im doing it wrongly, there is no way u can paint an entire piece without parts of the original colour still on the piece.
another example:

Painting via the satay stick method also tends to pool. Alot. Maybe its my method of spraying, Idk. But this certainly doesn't suit me. Yet.

Im seriously wondering how u guys do it...

What course of action should I take now? Now that half of my parts have chipped off paint... I could try repainting it. Repainting the chipped off part is really a bad idea... I tried it. The whole sword is uneven now

Sry for blurry photos. iPhone 3G camera sucks.
On a side note, I just got this stack from a kind soul:

Any1 knows how to read Jap? Or why do you buy this magazines for? the parts? Paying 20+ for some extra limited edition parts is kinda steep.

 

[evilerniex]

After using 1 whole bottle of paint, experimenting with 2 different types of Spray painting, i find that the mass painting using cardboard is defintely better. or at least until i fix this problem:

U see that? EVERY SINGLE FREAKING PIECE that i used the satay stick method had its paint chipped off. due to paint that stuck to the clip. Unless im doing it wrongly, there is no way u can paint an entire piece without parts of the original colour still on the piece.
another example:

Painting via the satay stick method also tends to pool. Alot. Maybe its my method of spraying, Idk. But this certainly doesn't suit me. Yet.

Im seriously wondering how u guys do it...

What course of action should I take now? Now that half of my parts have chipped off paint... I could try repainting it. Repainting the chipped off part is really a bad idea... I tried it. The whole sword is uneven now

Sry for blurry photos. iPhone 3G camera sucks.
On a side note, I just got this stack from a kind soul:

Any1 knows how to read Jap? Or why do you buy this magazines for? the parts? Paying 20+ for some extra limited edition parts is kinda steep.

attach the satay sticks to the areas that are not exposed when assembled e.g. the underside of an armour piece, joints that will be inserted into polycaps

 

[tanyieern]

attach the satay sticks to the areas that are not exposed when assembled e.g. the underside of an armour piece, joints that will be inserted into polycaps

Yea, but not all parts is underside of an armour, or pegs/joints inserted into polycaps that need to wholly painted. In that case, what do you do?

 

[aucheukyan]

After using 1 whole bottle of paint, experimenting with 2 different types of Spray painting, i find that the mass painting using cardboard is defintely better. or at least until i fix this problem:
IMG]http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u407/tanyieern/IMG_0179.jpg[/IMG]
U see that? EVERY SINGLE FREAKING PIECE that i used the satay stick method had its paint chipped off. due to paint that stuck to the clip. Unless im doing it wrongly, there is no way u can paint an entire piece without parts of the original colour still on the piece.
another example:
IMG]http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u407/tanyieern/IMG_0176.jpg[/IMG]
Painting via the satay stick method also tends to pool. Alot. Maybe its my method of spraying, Idk. But this certainly doesn't suit me. Yet.

Im seriously wondering how u guys do it...

What course of action should I take now? Now that half of my parts have chipped off paint... I could try repainting it. Repainting the chipped off part is really a bad idea... I tried it. The whole sword is uneven now

Sry for blurry photos. iPhone 3G camera sucks.
On a side note, I just got this stack from a kind soul:
IMG]http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u407/tanyieern/IMG_0175.jpg[/IMG]
Any1 knows how to read Jap? Or why do you buy this magazines for? the parts? Paying 20+ for some extra limited edition parts is kinda steep.

If you spray paint on satay sticks, you will tend to hold the stick with one hand and spray with the other, and because your hand can only spread out so much thats why the paint will be thicker and 'pools'.... try to get a foam board or something to stick your satay stick on and spray abit more than an arm length away, dont mist it, just coat abit by abit.

And do attached the sticks to your plastics on surfaces that doesnt expose like polycaps or the insides. If it is one whole surface then you try to seperate parts into sections(i.e. panel lines) mask one part then spray the other, after it drys, reverse the process with low tack masking tapes. Then wash the panel line to hide the obvious partition. For your first pic, you can stick the male part of the long slender thingee, which is on the left of the piece(round round thingee), that place will most likely be inserted into a polycap, therefore use that space to stick on

I do read the magazines, they have customised kits by jap modellers, competition kits, new upcoming kits and other stuff. They also got sections that teaches you various methods that you can learn from it.

i think i better watercool or add additional fins for my compressor.

everytime i airbrush, the airtank's pressure drop to 3bar and triggers the compressor, making it run almost constantly.

Wah your tank how small??? or you set high high psi

 

[Cleaver]

U see that? EVERY SINGLE FREAKING PIECE that i used the satay stick method had its paint chipped off. due to paint that stuck to the clip. Unless im doing it wrongly, there is no way u can paint an entire piece without parts of the original colour still on the piece.
another example:

Painting via the satay stick method also tends to pool. Alot. Maybe its my method of spraying, Idk. But this certainly doesn't suit me. Yet.

Im seriously wondering how u guys do it...

What course of action should I take now? Now that half of my parts have chipped off paint... I could try repainting it. Repainting the chipped off part is really a bad idea... I tried it. The whole sword is uneven now
QUOTE]


can you show us how you put the parts on the stick?

also ive link the you-tube video of how to spray can, you shouldnt have pool of paints...

If there's really parts that whole of it need to be painted, i'll prime and spray 1 side first, than turn over to the other side the next day

In the first pic, you can use crocodile clip to hold the peg on the left, as that part should be hidden when assemble...

 

[tanyieern]

If you spray paint on satay sticks, you will tend to hold the stick with one hand and spray with the other, and because your hand can only spread out so much thats why the paint will be thicker and 'pools'.... try to get a foam board or something to stick your satay stick on and spray abit more than an arm length away, dont mist it, just coat abit by abit.

And do attached the sticks to your plastics on surfaces that doesnt expose like polycaps or the insides. If it is one whole surface then you try to seperate parts into sections(i.e. panel lines) mask one part then spray the other, after it drys, reverse the process with low tack masking tapes. Then wash the panel line to hide the obvious partition. For your first pic, you can stick the male part of the long slender thingee, which is on the left of the piece(round round thingee), that place will most likely be inserted into a polycap, therefore use that space to stick on

Is foam board similar to a styrofoam box? Hmm, Thanks for all the advice. Will use it on the next model i paint. Which is gonna be awhile...

Can't decide in between getting a HG AGE-2 or a RG Freedom. Since HAG/HAW is having a 30% discount, RG is really cheap now... But i can't bear to paint and screw up a RG. I want to paint AGE-2 spec ops style. But i won't have time for both...

I do read the magazines, they have customised kits by jap modellers, competition kits, new upcoming kits and other stuff. They also got sections that teaches you various methods that you can learn from it.

I can't seem to find the methods to improve ur models. A lot of reviews and nice dioramas. Some nice figurines and other anime models in the second half. The second half creeped me out. I did not expect to find porn figurines being reviewed. But this is a Japanese magazine. So i guess i shldn't have been so surprised...

 

[sliver0503]

Agreed with cleaver, do short burst, fr left to right. Doesnt matter if the coat is thin n cant cover whole area. Wait for first coat to dry, then short burst fr left to right. Do not be too greedy and zhua full burst, definitely will get pooling
My 2 cents

 

[tanyieern]

can you show us how you put the parts on the stick?

also ive link the you-tube video of how to spray can, you shouldnt have pool of paints...

If there's really parts that whole of it need to be painted, i'll prime and spray 1 side first, than turn over to the other side the next day

In the first pic, you can use crocodile clip to hold the peg on the left, as that part should be hidden when assemble...

Ill take some pics of how i attach the parts and post here tmr.

yea, i followed it. Not the first step though(thin mist). I has 2 wet coats, with 30mins of drying time in between. Spray from left to right. Though, after awhile, i raged abit due to low paint levels, and just sprayed directly. Not during the burst motions. The paint only pools when I try to redo parts that paint has chipped off. Gotta say, the paint that im using is really thick. Gonna use Tamiya paint the next time i spray paint.

Attaching the points, i just randomly chose some places. I guess its my fault. Oh well, Learning the hard way makes you remember. I won't make the same mistakes next time.

 

[tarui04]

Wah your tank how small??? or you set high high psi

i think it's just above 2 bar because during usage, it struggles to remain above 2 on the regulator.
air tank is 3L

when i leave the compressor to mode 1, which is auto-stop at 4.0bar and auto start at 3.0bar, a light press to clear paint particles at the nozzle and a few strokes of spraying will cause the pressure to drop to 3.0bar and restart the compressor.

 

[aucheukyan]

i think it's just above 2 bar because during usage, it struggles to remain above 2 on the regulator.
air tank is 3L

when i leave the compressor to mode 1, which is auto-stop at 4.0bar and auto start at 3.0bar, a light press to clear paint particles at the nozzle and a few strokes of spraying will cause the pressure to drop to 3.0bar and restart the compressor.

wah 2 bars is almost 30psi........ so strong siao, i normally spray around 25 psi(1.5 bar) for coat and 17-20psi(1.1-1.3bars)for fine details. My 3L tank allows my compressor to start stop at intervals of around 2-3 mins.

and then after spray open the tap and brown water comes out

Is foam board similar to a styrofoam box? Hmm, Thanks for all the advice. Will use it on the next model i paint. Which is gonna be awhile...

Can't decide in between getting a HG AGE-2 or a RG Freedom. Since HAG/HAW is having a 30% discount, RG is really cheap now... But i can't bear to paint and screw up a RG. I want to paint AGE-2 spec ops style. But i won't have time for both...



I can't seem to find the methods to improve ur models. A lot of reviews and nice dioramas. Some nice figurines and other anime models in the second half. The second half creeped me out. I did not expect to find porn figurines being reviewed. But this is a Japanese magazine. So i guess i shldn't have been so surprised...

Foam board, not styrofoam box, you can get at art friend, get the thicker ones. Or if you prefer go buy electronics and they have the foam padding that you can use.

They do have +20(japan legal age is 20 XD) figurines there, and they have guides too, its no spoonfeeding but it gives you bits and pieces that you can analyse and apply it into your builds.

 

[osirisx]

i think it's just above 2 bar because during usage, it struggles to remain above 2 on the regulator.
air tank is 3L

when i leave the compressor to mode 1, which is auto-stop at 4.0bar and auto start at 3.0bar, a light press to clear paint particles at the nozzle and a few strokes of spraying will cause the pressure to drop to 3.0bar and restart the compressor.

I also have similar problem, not sure about the bar but the motor kicks in too often

using around 15 psi, spray 1 part(hg) and the motor kicks in.....so basically every gunpla part the motor will kick in to fill the tank and I have to wait

 

[tarui04]

wah 2 bars is almost 30psi........ so strong siao, i normally spray around 25 psi(1.5 bar) for coat and 17-20psi(1.1-1.3bars)for fine details. My 3L tank allows my compressor to start stop at intervals of around 2-3 mins.

and then after spray open the tap and brown water comes out




Foam board, not styrofoam box, you can get at art friend, get the thicker ones. Or if you prefer go buy electronics and they have the foam padding that you can use.

They do have +20(japan legal age is 20 XD) figurines there, and they have guides too, its no spoonfeeding but it gives you bits and pieces that you can analyse and apply it into your builds.

I assume thats the pressure I am running at lah. because I tried a few times between the pressure setting and paint dilution for the primer and the paint.

strange thing is, the primer I seem to use a lower pressure rating and iirc it is abit thicker than the paint's dilution that I use. of course I have to clean the needle often

when I started painting, I had alot of problems. how much to dilute the paint and what pressure to use. eventually I got to a dilution of between 2 paint : 1 thinner or 3:1

my kits don't require fine spraying since I am painting large areas or areas that have been properly masked off
btw, I am using 0.5mm setups

I don't think the pressure gauge measures the outgoing air pressure because it will never reach 1.1 bar like what u said because the moment it touches 3bar the compressor auto starts

 

[tarui04]

I also have similar problem, not sure about the bar but the motor kicks in too often

using around 15 psi, spray 1 part(hg) and the motor kicks in.....so basically every gunpla part the motor will kick in to fill the tank and I have to wait

I can spray while compressor is running. doesn't affect my spray though sometimes i get water spraying out of my nozzle

 

[osirisx]

I can spray while compressor is running. doesn't affect my spray though sometimes i get water spraying out of my nozzle

I can spray while its running too(slightly reduced pressure)...but that kinda defeats the purpose of having a airtank, want to let my compressor rest at intervals

 

[aucheukyan]

I can spray while compressor is running. doesn't affect my spray though sometimes i get water spraying out of my nozzle

try opening the tap, face the tap down and run your compressor... you will see brown muck coming out. Remember to put a cloth or do it in the toilet so that you can wash it away........

I assume thats the pressure I am running at lah. because I tried a few times between the pressure setting and paint dilution for the primer and the paint.

strange thing is, the primer I seem to use a lower pressure rating and iirc it is abit thicker than the paint's dilution that I use. of course I have to clean the needle often

when I started painting, I had alot of problems. how much to dilute the paint and what pressure to use. eventually I got to a dilution of between 2 paint : 1 thinner or 3:1

my kits don't require fine spraying since I am painting large areas or areas that have been properly masked off
btw, I am using 0.5mm setups

I don't think the pressure gauge measures the outgoing air pressure because it will never reach 1.1 bar like what u said because the moment it touches 3bar the compressor auto starts

im sure you your 2:1 and 3:1 is 1 part paint and 2 or 3 part thinner right??
i also use between 1:2 to 1:3 mix, but i gauge by consistency and not by portion. i spray 0.3 cause i usually do 1/144 scale models, for bigger ones i will do max technique which renders 0.5 useless to me. 0.5 is super good to spray primers, and i do have one for priming...

The 1.1bar is the amount of air that is passing through the gauge/watertrap from the tank, as of my setup and may not be fully accurate as they may have micro leaks that drains the pressure off, like my quick release.....

 

[evilerniex]

Can't decide in between getting a HG AGE-2 or a RG Freedom. Since HAG/HAW is having a 30% discount, RG is really cheap now... But i can't bear to paint and screw up a RG. I want to paint AGE-2 spec ops style. But i won't have time for both...

RG is not a good kit for beginners to try painting coz there are too many parts, and the parts are very small. it is better to start with MG or HG. MG is good coz the parts are well separated, so less masking to do


btw, OG is selling RG zaku for $25

 

[tarui04]

try opening the tap, face the tap down and run your compressor... you will see brown muck coming out. Remember to put a cloth or do it in the toilet so that you can wash it away........



im sure you your 2:1 and 3:1 is 1 part paint and 2 or 3 part thinner right??
i also use between 1:2 to 1:3 mix, but i gauge by consistency and not by portion. i spray 0.3 cause i usually do 1/144 scale models, for bigger ones i will do max technique which renders 0.5 useless to me. 0.5 is super good to spray primers, and i do have one for priming...

The 1.1bar is the amount of air that is passing through the gauge/watertrap from the tank, as of my setup and may not be fully accurate as they may have micro leaks that drains the pressure off, like my quick release.....

err no
1 thinner to 2-3 parts paint. i tried the 1 paint to 2-3 thinner before when i searched ard for the dilution ratios. but even after trying different air pressure settings, i still get pooling on the parts or i get a super thin coverage with paint spots on the part.
this is even after mixing well and varying the pressure settings.

when i use 1 thinner to 2-3 paint, it dries to touch quite easily, esp spraying big parts so i leave it 1 side to cure over a few hrs (sometimes 24hrs as recommended by some forums)

even with 0.5, the primer spray also gets clogged up

 

[tanyieern]

RG is not a good kit for beginners to try painting coz there are too many parts, and the parts are very small. it is better to start with MG or HG. MG is good coz the parts are well separated, so less masking to do


btw, OG is selling RG zaku for $25

MG is still really expensive. I want an MG but MG Freedom is nowhere near $50. I can't bear to spend $50 on a RX78-2 or Ball.

Definitely not going paint any RG or MG that i buy, at least for the very first kit from each grade that I buy.

Painting, im going to keep to HG, at least until I have a long experience.

o.0, $25 for RG Zaku? at OG? Metro is selling it for $52... But i dun like zaku... I want Aile strike, Freedom and Sky grasper. But cant afford all 3 at once...

As you can see, im a HUGE Seed Fan. 00 was ok, Age was too kiddy, but the older gundams i didnt really like much. Wing was decent, not fantastic. Haven't gotten around to watch the original UC yet(Gundam, Zeta and double zeta) nor fighter G. Unicorn is really good, but its a OVA

 

[tanyieern]

Foam board, not styrofoam box, you can get at art friend, get the thicker ones. Or if you prefer go buy electronics and they have the foam padding that you can use.

Is it that thing that makes a pop sound when u press them? Those are fun!

 

[xfiles_wolvie]

Wah lan eh wolvie! Getting better n better!
Will be calling u master soon liao.

thanks bro...its encouragement from you bros that keep me going...sango over so passion dying soon...

will there be sango anime part 2? dun tell me they let it end at red cliff.....