Gundam Modeling Official thread - Part 5

[kenneth0601]

I'm a total newbie here. Just wanna ask a quick question. I'm thinking of buying the Red Frame MG 1/100 from www.1999.co.jp . It's currently S$77, including shipping. Is that the cheapest I can get or are there local shops that sell cheaper?

Can visit HAW/HAG, they have ongoing sales at the moment.

 

[dennis23]

Can visit HAW/HAG, they have ongoing sales at the moment.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have contacted them

Okay, so this is going to be my first proper model. I've had a number of 1/144 models before, as well as 1 from armored core. However, I've never done any post-assembly work such as painting and paneling (TBH, I didn't even know I had to do any of that).
For this build, I was planning to do the following:
-Assemble
-Clean joint and seam lines with sanding tools and cement
-Panel with soft touch markers (with some smudging to create weathering)
-Spray top coat

Any tips on that? Any particular tool or brand of product I should use?

 

[jazy1992]

Thanks for the suggestion. I have contacted them

Okay, so this is going to be my first proper model. I've had a number of 1/144 models before, as well as 1 from armored core. However, I've never done any post-assembly work such as painting and paneling (TBH, I didn't even know I had to do any of that).
For this build, I was planning to do the following:
-Assemble
-Clean joint and seam lines with sanding tools and cement
-Panel with soft touch markers (with some smudging to create weathering)
-Spray top coat

Any tips on that? Any particular tool or brand of product I should use?

use a flush cutter to cut your parts from the runners and use sand paper of grids 600 to 1000 to sand your nub marks.

for seam lines u can use tamiya cement or even super glue that does not frost.

i think using enamel wash would be a better idea if u want to weather and panel line your kit at the same time. though it can be intimidating for starters.

for topcoat just use the spray cans from mr hobby.

actually since u already have kits that u build b4, why not work on them first?

 

[dennis23]

use a flush cutter to cut your parts from the runners and use sand paper of grids 600 to 1000 to sand your nub marks.

for seam lines u can use tamiya cement or even super glue that does not frost.

i think using enamel wash would be a better idea if u want to weather and panel line your kit at the same time. though it can be intimidating for starters.

for topcoat just use the spray cans from mr hobby.

actually since u already have kits that u build b4, why not work on them first?

My old models were all lost when I moved house

For weathering, which would you say gives better result? Using enamel wash or a weathering powder kit?

 

[evilerniex]

My old models were all lost when I moved house

For weathering, which would you say gives better result? Using enamel wash or a weathering powder kit?

weathering is considered more advance technique. i suggest u start with the basics first: clear seamline, painting, panel lining

 

[dennis23]

weathering is considered more advance technique. i suggest u start with the basics first: clear seamline, painting, panel lining

Yup, I can imagine. However, I'm the "do first, practice later" kind of guy Not the best method, I know, but then again, it usually pays off for me. Besides, I do have some experience with painting and modelling, just not on plastic models. Hopefully I can get into the workflow quicker than if I was to start from scratch.

A few questions on painting if you don't mind:
-Do you buy all the colors that you want or do you buy a small number of colors and then mix?
-What do you use as paint thinner?
-I've seen quite a number of tutorials online that skip over the painting and go straight for top coat with really good result. My question is, with MG kits, are the colors good enough to be left unpainted? Assuming I'm happy with the color scheme.

 

[tissuepaper]

I'm a total newbie here. Just wanna ask a quick question. I'm thinking of buying the Red Frame MG 1/100 from www.1999.co.jp . It's currently S$77, including shipping. Is that the cheapest I can get or are there local shops that sell cheaper?

think i see $65 before. could be carousell / gundam marketplace (facebook)

A few questions on painting if you don't mind:
-Do you buy all the colors that you want or do you buy a small number of colors and then mix?
-What do you use as paint thinner?
-I've seen quite a number of tutorials online that skip over the painting and go straight for top coat with really good result. My question is, with MG kits, are the colors good enough to be left unpainted? Assuming I'm happy with the color scheme.

you doing hand paint or airbrush ?

i use mr gaia thinner. mr hobby and tamiya also have their paint thinner as well. and i think tamiya have enamel and lacquer thinner, so dont get the wrong one.

MG usually have good colors, so can skip painting if you like, really up to individual. whereas HG requires painting/stickers on certain area.

 

[evilerniex]

-Do you buy all the colors that you want or do you buy a small number of colors and then mix?
personal preference. for me i mostly just buy the basic colours and mix.

-What do you use as paint thinner?
depends on the paint u use. there is lacquer-based, enamel-based and water-based paint. for airbrushing, people usually use lacquer-based paint, and then enamel paint for panel wash

-I've seen quite a number of tutorials online that skip over the painting and go straight for top coat with really good result. My question is, with MG kits, are the colors good enough to be left unpainted? Assuming I'm happy with the color scheme.
MG parts usually are in their correct colour. in fact, a lot of dept stores displays are just snap-fit and matt coat with no painting. even some of the displays at gundam dock sg are just matt coated.
however, if u need to clear seamline or fill sink marks with putty, u will still need to paint to cover the putty.

 

[kenneth0601]

Yup, I can imagine. However, I'm the "do first, practice later" kind of guy Not the best method, I know, but then again, it usually pays off for me. Besides, I do have some experience with painting and modelling, just not on plastic models. Hopefully I can get into the workflow quicker than if I was to start from scratch.

A few questions on painting if you don't mind:
-Do you buy all the colors that you want or do you buy a small number of colors and then mix?
-What do you use as paint thinner?
-I've seen quite a number of tutorials online that skip over the painting and go straight for top coat with really good result. My question is, with MG kits, are the colors good enough to be left unpainted? Assuming I'm happy with the color scheme.

1) Will always buy the colours that I want to use so long as Creos and Gaia make them.
2) Gaia basic thinner with little bit Creos leveling thinner for retardation.
3) MG kits, in general, looks good without painting. That said, MG kits has lots of room for painting variations.

If you have time this Sunday afternoon, my mates and I are holding a build at Cheng San CC. You can join us and we are more than happy to guide you along.

 

[simcher]

My haul for these 2 weeks... going to complete my collection of PGs soon.... only left the following....

1) PG Strike Gundam
2) PG Skygrapser
3) PG Banshee

 

[sevensomerset]

My haul for these 2 weeks... going to complete my collection of PGs soon.... only left the following....

1) PG Strike Gundam
2) PG Skygrapser
3) PG Banshee

damage?(probably deadly )

 

[Errz]

O.... M ...... G!

My haul for these 2 weeks... going to complete my collection of PGs soon.... only left the following....

1) PG Strike Gundam
2) PG Skygrapser
3) PG Banshee

 

[simcher]

damage?(probably deadly )

total..... over 1k....

 

[Errz]

total..... over 1k....

from japan?

 

[dennis23]

Thanks for all the replies and tips. I've just finished assembly, probably need to do some cementing and a bit more sanding. I have a few more questions for the next steps:

-Do you do panel lining first or decals first?
-I want to do a rinse of the model because there are a lot of small plastic particles from all the sanding and cutting. What do I use to rise/soak?
-How do you prepare the model for top coating?
-There's a piece, F5, that is supposed to be stuck to the crotch of the Astray Red Frame but I can't seem to see how that piece goes onto the base. Anyone who has the model can help me out?

Thanks in advance

 

[simcher]

from japan?

nope, everything from Carousell. got good price for everything...

 

[simwb90]

Thanks for all the replies and tips. I've just finished assembly, probably need to do some cementing and a bit more sanding. I have a few more questions for the next steps:

-Do you do panel lining first or decals first?
-I want to do a rinse of the model because there are a lot of small plastic particles from all the sanding and cutting. What do I use to rise/soak?
-How do you prepare the model for top coating?
-There's a piece, F5, that is supposed to be stuck to the crotch of the Astray Red Frame but I can't seem to see how that piece goes onto the base. Anyone who has the model can help me out?

Thanks in advance

which Red Frame are you talking about?
if im not wrong, the MGs tend to have a piece that goes between the legs. that piece is to cover the hole that would otherwise be used by the display stands.
so if you don't plan to put them on display stands, you can just plug the hole. otherwise, it's better to leave it open since it can be a pain to remove it sometimes, due to its small size.

 

[evilerniex]

Thanks for all the replies and tips. I've just finished assembly, probably need to do some cementing and a bit more sanding. I have a few more questions for the next steps:

-Do you do panel lining first or decals first?
-I want to do a rinse of the model because there are a lot of small plastic particles from all the sanding and cutting. What do I use to rise/soak?
-How do you prepare the model for top coating?
-There's a piece, F5, that is supposed to be stuck to the crotch of the Astray Red Frame but I can't seem to see how that piece goes onto the base. Anyone who has the model can help me out?

Thanks in advance

if there are decals that goes over panel lines, then shld decal first and panel line over the decal. coz panel lines represents gaps in the armour and u dun want decal to be floating over the gap. another way is to cut up the decal and paste separately so the panel line is still visible.
if no such cases, then either one first is ok.

use a soft brush to dust off the debris. can use those that gals use for makeup.
nothing much to prepare, just make sure the surface is clean by dusting.

 

[000kai000]

hello peeps!

anybody got airbrush lobang?

today wanted to do some airbrushing after such a long time...

but airbrush uplorryz ... think too long never use le...

 

[Errz]

dragon momoko doing a PG kit!

https://www.facebook.com/dragonmomoko/posts/1005739179490492