Hi, I am exploring to upgrade my currently home switch to Aqara. What are the thing required for a basis setup. I will just need to control the switch when i am away from home in the scenario like forget to off the lights and etc. Also, for aqara switch, what is the difference between E1 and D1 model? Anyone can guide me?
Halo
@scenium ,
Is there any particular reason why you are set on aqara?
There are quite a few options out there for smart switches.
For Aqara home switches - you'll need an aqara hub. All your aqara switches will be then connected to this hub.
You communicate with the hub (via app) and provide the desired actions (ie turn on/off kitchen lights, fans etc) - the hub will in turn communicate with your aqara switches via the zigbee protocol to execute your instructions (ie on/off lights/ fan etc).
The benefit of using zigbee is that interference to your wifi network is minimum. The alternative is using wifi based switches which will add load to your existing wifi network. Imagine having 20-30 more devices connected to your wifi. Having said that - most modern wifi router should be able to handle the load.
The scenarios that you've described are certainly do-able for aqara switches (that is the bare minimum for smart switches). There are 2 basic type of switches in the market - ie switches with neutral AND switches that does not require neutral.
In summary switches that requires neutral - require a neutral wire to power the switch and keep it online 24/7 - this is required so that you can send instruction for it to turn on/off whenever you wish. In this configuration only your switch is powered on by the neutral wire (27/7), NO current goes to your equipment. The downside is that you'll need to ask your electrician to pull neutral wire into all of your switches.
Switches that doesn't require neutral wires (also need to be online 24/7) - manipulates the voltage to achieve the on/off effect. For for lights to turn on - a certain voltage threshold is required. Installing the non neutral switches means that there'll be constant current going into your equipments (lights/ fans etc). The turning on/off is achieved by manipulating the voltage above or below this voltage threshold. In this configuration - there are current going thru your switches AND equipment linked to it. There are discussion that having current going into your equipment 24/7 may shorten its lifespan - and also may have the flickering issue. Alot of folks here dun have this problem
E1 and D1 is pretty similar in terms of function - but E1 uses better material. Metal plates I think - where D1 uses plastic/ ABS. I got my D1 from shoppee - around $20-$30 SGD depending on how many gangs it has. Someone here mentioned that he can get it for $8 - not sure how true it is.
