Where to tailor clothes, continued...

[darthsid11111]

Define Italian style and bespoke. Barchetta pocket, many tailors can do, probably majority, but different types of shoulders, only few can do. Number of vents, you can specify, no issue. Italian fabrics, many tailors carry. Unstructured or half lining? Many tailors can do too, for extra charge.

correct me if I am wrong, I think in Singapore, many tailors do not keep personal patterns, they draft using ’rock of the eye’ from your measurements or alter from existing patterns. Bespoke , maybe need to find The Prestigious?

You are definitely wrong.

 

[darthsid11111]

Thanks for the replies! Yes, good questions.

What I mean by Italian style in the local context I suppose is someone whose house style adopts many features of Italian tailoring, some of which you have mentioned. Could be Barchetta pockets, structure (or in this case the relative lack thereof), buttonholes, shoulder style, darting etc. I have something quite specific in mind for a Florentine-style suit so it is important that the tailor is at least familiar with the Italian suit-making tradition eg. when their house style adopts many features or is based on Italian suit tailoring concepts. Granted we're in Southeast Asia so I don't expect someone to fit the bill exactly of a central Italian tailor But would appreciate if anybody from their personal knowledge or experience could point me to some tailors like that for me to consult!

Regarding fabric, I am not fussed as it's going to be a more casual project, looking for hopsack in a shade of green so am happy to go with basically any mill which has fabric of the texture and colour I want. Maybe VBC hopsack comes to mind.

On the type of "bespoke" tailoring I am looking for, yes the cutting of personal patterns is fundamental but how do you practically tell which they use? Would be good to learn from the wealth of experience here haha.

No. of fittings to me is not as crucial because sometimes after 1-2 fittings it can be cut very well and there is no need for further wastage. My experience so far has been that it is really obvious when it is made-to-measure, and that the "bespoke" tailors will look at your posture, gait, shoulder slope, length of arms (uneven for me) along with a host of other measurements and images to get the fit pared down, and they will conduct fittings with no definite number set, as needed, could be 1 - 3 from what I've experienced. On whether they save your personal patterns, some of the tailors I've been to have this electronic sheet of your measurements and when you visit they will just confirm very quickly that nothing much has changed in that respect, not sure if that's what you are referring to?

Appreciate the time! Will check out Dylan & Son in the meantime.

Bespoke is a matter of whether you can afford it or not. For D&S a pair of 4ply VBC bespoke trousers is listed at over $1.2k on his website.

https://www.dylanandson.store/product-page/4-ply-wool-trouser-vbc

 

[MrGDebonair]

Bespoke is a matter of whether you can afford it or not. For D&S a pair of 4ply VBC bespoke trousers is listed at over $1.2k on his website.

Right, but I think the question more for me is what additional value you get for the increase in money spent? I'm not just referring to the luxury of someone lavishing attention on you whilst on the project but how tangible is the increase in quality in the final product?

 

[Jay9999]

Right, but I think the question more for me is what additional value you get for the increase in money spent? I'm not just referring to the luxury of someone lavishing attention on you whilst on the project but how tangible is the increase in quality in the final product?

For D&S, he does have his own views if you had not tried, but his skills more then compensate for it.

 

[paladin]

Italian style - Made suit, from milanese buttonhole to Con Rollino shoulders or spalla camicia shoulders , they can do, but not convinced they are bespoke, more bespoke to measure. https://www.made-suits.com/hallmarks-of-our-made-suits
Italian cut
https://www.made-suits.com/bespoke-cut-style-selection
bespoke, to me, the production must be done inhouse by in-house team and not outsourced to factory or external workshop. The cutter is the fitter, the makers and trimmers (finishers) ( Cut.Make. Trim) all in house and you can get to know them. They will put the name of the cutter at the shop front , e,g Edward sexton, Cifonelli, Clarence wong ( Made suit use them) https://www.made-suits.com/made-suits-bespoke-tailored-suits


Although Made suit offers bespoke suits with Kirin and Clarence Wong, technically this is outsourced? https://www.made-suits.com/custom-tailoring-bespoke-process
In Truely bespoke sense, I think you can know the names of the people involved in making your suit, this one, I think The prestigious do it https://www.theprestigiousbespoke.com/our-tailors/


to some extent, Dylan & sons also, but dunno who are the makers and finishers. Basically you are paying the craftmen, so the craftsmen matters.

The other one a bit close is The Cutting Room 1982

 

[paladin]

Bespoke is a matter of whether you can afford it or not. For D&S a pair of 4ply VBC bespoke trousers is listed at over $1.2k on his website.

https://www.dylanandson.store/product-page/4-ply-wool-trouser-vbc

As usual. You complain and criticise, but nothing constructive to offer to people who ask question and never address the Qn directly. He is asking for bespoke tailor with house cut Italian style and if you have nothing to offer , just shut up; you criticise various tailors, then he has no tailor to go to, then you recommend him buy a RTW suit to alter again?

 

[paladin]

You are definitely wrong.

Since you are so sure that the majority of local tailors keep personalised patterns, pls provide a list of 20 local tailors who keep personalised patterns of their customers else you are lying or you do not understand English well, as usual. We can learn from your wide knowledge. There are easily 40 local tailors so to ask 20 tailors from you shouldn’t be difficult since you are so sure?

 

[Moratia]

Are there like Jacket versions of Yong Seng where I can bring my own fabric and ask for CMT?

 

[paladin]

Thanks for the replies! Yes, good questions.

What I mean by Italian style in the local context I suppose is someone whose house style adopts many features of Italian tailoring, some of which you have mentioned. Could be Barchetta pockets, structure (or in this case the relative lack thereof), buttonholes, shoulder style, darting etc. I have something quite specific in mind for a Florentine-style suit so it is important that the tailor is at least familiar with the Italian suit-making tradition eg. when their house style adopts many features or is based on Italian suit tailoring concepts. Granted we're in Southeast Asia so I don't expect someone to fit the bill exactly of a central Italian tailor But would appreciate if anybody from their personal knowledge or experience could point me to some tailors like that for me to consult!

Regarding fabric, I am not fussed as it's going to be a more casual project, looking for hopsack in a shade of green so am happy to go with basically any mill which has fabric of the texture and colour I want. Maybe VBC hopsack comes to mind.

On the type of "bespoke" tailoring I am looking for, yes the cutting of personal patterns is fundamental but how do you practically tell which they use? Would be good to learn from the wealth of experience here haha.

No. of fittings to me is not as crucial because sometimes after 1-2 fittings it can be cut very well and there is no need for further wastage. My experience so far has been that it is really obvious when it is made-to-measure, and that the "bespoke" tailors will look at your posture, gait, shoulder slope, length of arms (uneven for me) along with a host of other measurements and images to get the fit pared down, and they will conduct fittings with no definite number set, as needed, could be 1 - 3 from what I've experienced. On whether they save your personal patterns, some of the tailors I've been to have this electronic sheet of your measurements and when you visit they will just confirm very quickly that nothing much has changed in that respect, not sure if that's what you are referring to?

Appreciate the time! Will check out Dylan & Son in the meantime.

Electronic sheet of measurements is just measurements, personalised pattern is the paper of your individualised cut of fabric pieces which ultimately resulted in your perfect fit. This paper will then be used to draft and cut your next suit by just tracing the perimeter.
https://mullenandmullen.co.uk/blogs/news/ask-the-tailor-why-is-an-individual-paper-pattern-important

 

[Rong626]

Which shade of brown do you think I should go for?

For shirts to pair, I've whites, blues, orange striped, green striped.

 

[darthsid11111]

Right, but I think the question more for me is what additional value you get for the increase in money spent? I'm not just referring to the luxury of someone lavishing attention on you whilst on the project but how tangible is the increase in quality in the final product?

The answer is...no. Not for the first bespoke commission at least. A freshly drafter pattern is tricky to fit and you will only start to reap the benefits after a few commissions.

For instant gratification altering RTW is the better way to go.

 

[darthsid11111]

Since you are so sure that the majority of local tailors keep personalised patterns, pls provide a list of 20 local tailors who keep personalised patterns of their customers else you are lying or you do not understand English well, as usual. We can learn from your wide knowledge. There are easily 40 local tailors so to ask 20 tailors from you shouldn’t be difficult since you are so sure?

Just because you don't know doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Just because you like to type WOT text doesn't mean what you type is correct.

Your statement was "many tailors do not keep..." just because you keep the company of lousy tailors doesn't mean all of them are bad. Read in the context of the original question which was regarding bespoke tailors, this is definitely not true.

What one can conclude is that you only know of rubbish bespoke tailors. This is understood based on your past posts espousing tailors that suckall, together with the lack of ability to find a tailor who can make a simple commission despite being a fabric merchant.

For an ignorant person you sure do enjoy advising people.

 

[darthsid11111]

Which shade of brown do you think I should go for?

For shirts to pair, I've whites, blues, orange striped, green striped.

The lighter colour works better as a casual trousers while the darker one looks a bit smarter. If it is for office wear go with the darker trouser!

 

[MrGDebonair]

Electronic sheet of measurements is just measurements, personalised pattern is the paper of your individualised cut of fabric pieces which ultimately resulted in your perfect fit. This paper will then be used to draft and cut your next suit by just tracing the perimeter.

Ah I see, thank you very much for all the input including the answers above, very helpful!

 

[MrGDebonair]

The answer is...no. Not for the first bespoke commission at least. A freshly drafter pattern is tricky to fit and you will only start to reap the benefits after a few commissions.

For instant gratification altering RTW is the better way to go.

I see, thanks for sharing your experience!

 

[Rong626]

Someone on reddit compiled a list of boutique menswear theyve visited

 

[paladin]

Someone on reddit compiled a list of boutique menswear theyve visited

Not sure if he tailors at these places or shopped RTW clothes as they also sell RTW clothes and shoes.

the blogger wahsoshiok actually visited about 20 tailor shops to tailor suits, to give his reviews, that’s not what a normal person would do, as you normally build a relationship with 1-5 tailors whom you trust. Even Simon from Permanent Style also recommended keep to 3-5 tailors so that you can build a relationship with them and they can understand your body and wardrobe better as time goes by. Unless a blogger or vlogger reviewer like Permanent Style or Hugo Jacomet, I doubt people will have more than 20 suits at any one time.

 

[paladin]

I used ChatGpt to ask this question today “ what are the features of a high quality suit” and this is the answer provided

————

A high-quality suit has several key features that set it apart from cheaper, lower quality alternatives. These features include:

1. Fabric: High-quality suits are made from premium fabrics such as wool, cashmere, or silk. These fabrics are durable, comfortable, and provide a sleek, polished appearance.
2. Tailoring: High-quality suits are expertly tailored to fit the wearer's body, with attention paid to details such as shoulder seams, lapels, and cuffs. The suit should fit well in the chest, waist, and hips, without being too loose or too tight.
3. Construction: High-quality suits are made with a focus on construction, using techniques such as canvassing, fusing, and pick-stitching. These techniques help to create a structure that supports the wearer, while also giving the suit a clean, crisp appearance.
4. Details: High-quality suits often feature small details, such as working buttons on the sleeves, functioning cuffs, and high-quality lining and pocketing materials. These details demonstrate the care and attention that has gone into the suit's design and construction.
5. Brand reputation: High-quality suits are often associated with well-known brands and designers that have a reputation for producing quality clothing.

These are just a few of the key features that define a high-quality suit. When looking for a suit, it is important to pay attention to these details to ensure that you are purchasing a garment that will last for many years and look great each time you wear it.

Like this post if you think the answer provided is accurate. Besides the word “fusing” in para 3, I think it’s quite accurate.

 

[Somerled_Hermine]

Guys, can we have more constructive discussion here? Long time lurker but gradually seeing the death of this forum despite the uptick in interest in quality menswear in SG.

Anyone else know of other hangouts/discussion places online for menswear in SG? SG Reddit is horrible and full of people only wanting to talk about HDBs, and they think anything more than a t-shirt and baggy shorts is overdressing due to the "weather".

Recently collected my tenth suit, all of which are either MTM or bespoke. Maybe time to start tailoring other types of clothing.

 

[Jay9999]

Ask Andy About Clothes is a good place to reference, though sometimes it does get abit too poisonous