Where to tailor clothes, continued...

[paladin]

I didn't get to wear my new shirt from collaro. There's a huge collar gap so I dont even know if it can be fixed. Else it's $180 down tbe drain.

might have to do with your posture during measurements, but then, for a $180 shirt, I expect a fitting and the collar gap should have been identified during the fitting. If no fitting or fitting did not identify, time to change the tailor.

I often see tailors wait for customers to highlight issues during fitting because more alterations mean less productivity and more effort, which could be used to earn more money. So the tailor keeps very quiet during fitting to see if the customer can identify any issues. The onus to identify issues during fitting should be that of the tailor and it is the hallmark of a good tailor.

 

[elvintay07]

Internet say Mohan, Ehkay can make suits at $300. Why I read from HardwareZone suits cost $1000-2000.

 

[Moratia]

Internet say Mohan, Ehkay can make suits at $300. Why I read from HardwareZone suits cost $1000-2000.

Fabric choice, type of jacket construction, buttons, type of pocket etc

 

[nethdale]

Hi, need advice from experts, I need to make a 2 piece suit for attending an overseas wedding, what is the colour now? Would blue shade (personally I don't like navy blue) is decent and safe bet for such occasion? How about the shade of light grey or something like this? More importantly it should not overshadow the bridegroom? Thank you.

 

[darthsid11111]

Hi, need advice from experts, I need to make a 2 piece suit for attending an overseas wedding, what is the colour now? Would blue shade (personally I don't like navy blue) is decent and safe bet for such occasion? How about the shade of light grey or something like this? More importantly it should not overshadow the bridegroom? Thank you.

Would you be wearing this suit often for work? Or is this a case of needing a suit for a wedding and you will likely end up wearing the jacket and trousers seperately in the future? Is wearing a suit a must or can you tailor jacket and trousers from seperate fabrics?

Without knowing the prescribed dress code my first instinct is to advise for a casual fabric which may be more versatile in the long run. Either linen or seersucker for hot climates. Get causal details such as patch pockets and very little structure in terms of shoulder padding or canvassing. This way you can always use the jacket seperately without having it look like an orphaned suit jacket.

In terms of colour, black or white would be the most formal so avoid those. Texture in fabric is one way to make your outfit more casual without delving into patterns.

If you're tailoring so that you can use the suit for biz casual just get a worsted wool in the super 100s in either a light navy (since you don't like navy) or a mid- not light or charcoal-grey.

 

[darthsid11111]

Internet say Mohan, Ehkay can make suits at $300. Why I read from HardwareZone suits cost $1000-2000.

Lol there are those who shill for trash using Google reviews and other sources of poorly informed opinions as evidence.

You get what you pay for. If you are ignorant to the finer things in life then who is to say that mediocrity would not suffice?

 

[paladin]

Internet say Mohan, Ehkay can make suits at $300. Why I read from HardwareZone suits cost $1000-2000.

Just like there is a wide range of prices for food, there are hawker food at Seah Im Food centre to Omakase at restaurants; the quality and rarity of raw materials like fabrics, the quality of construction, the overheads incurred by tailors have a huge bearing on the costs and final price.

e.g , how many fittings do you get from tailoring at Seah Im tailor? probably zero. Most MTM tailors, 2-3 fittings for suit and 1 fitting for shirt and trousers. For bespoke, 3-6 fittings for suit aren't uncommon. Each fitting is a cost incurred for the tailor to get it right.

There are different quality of product and service to meet different budgets.

This forum tend to avoid recommendations on low quality products and services

 

[nethdale]

1. Don’t make peak lapel
2. blue shade is fine, but not royal blue
3. light grey also fine

having said that, if this is your first suit, would still recommend Navy or Grey or charcoal color Unless you want your suit to be used only for weddings or more casual settings. Fabric like this will see more wears. Check out 'Scabal Londoner super 140 Charcoal honeycomb 3.55m suit wool fabric', available at S$380 on #Carousell https://carousell.app.link/UfjHod8XVwb

Hi Paladin, thanks your reply and looking forward to hearing your reply soon:
1. What is the reason don't make peak lapel?
2. If don't make peal lapel, what is your recommendation?
3. This is not my first suit (anyway, I only have 1 in my wardrobe) but I like to be formal rather than casual setting.
4. Would Navy blue too heavy in tone?
5. Assuming if I were to buy the materials from Carousell, I still need tailor to make the suit for me? Any recommendation or you can PM me?
Thanks.

 

[nethdale]

Would you be wearing this suit often for work? Or is this a case of needing a suit for a wedding and you will likely end up wearing the jacket and trousers seperately in the future? Is wearing a suit a must or can you tailor jacket and trousers from seperate fabrics?

Without knowing the prescribed dress code my first instinct is to advise for a casual fabric which may be more versatile in the long run. Either linen or seersucker for hot climates. Get causal details such as patch pockets and very little structure in terms of shoulder padding or canvassing. This way you can always use the jacket seperately without having it look like an orphaned suit jacket.

In terms of colour, black or white would be the most formal so avoid those. Texture in fabric is one way to make your outfit more casual without delving into patterns.

If you're tailoring so that you can use the suit for biz casual just get a worsted wool in the super 100s in either a light navy (since you don't like navy) or a mid- not light or charcoal-grey.

Hi Darthsid11111, thanks for your expert view. Generally I don't need to wear suit for working or gathering. It is purely for this wedding occasion in Europe and perhaps may have to attend another 1 or 2 in this year. I just want to look smart or rather appropriate at this occasion. That means causal setting maybe out for this suit. Appreciate if you could PM me some tailors for a budget between $800-1000? Thanks.

 

[paladin]

Hi Paladin, thanks your reply and looking forward to hearing your reply soon:
1. What is the reason don't make peak lapel? you don’t want to overshadow the groom and want to wear more often? Peak lapel draws attention to you.
2. If don't make peal lapel, what is your recommendation? notch lapel
3. This is not my first suit (anyway, I only have 1 in my wardrobe) but I like to be formal rather than casual setting.
4. Would Navy blue too heavy in tone? Navy very versatile for business or casual, and after wearing out the trousers, can just change jacket buttons to gold brass to convert to a blazer.

5. Assuming if I were to buy the materials from Carousell, I still need tailor to make the suit for me? Any recommendation or you can PM me? you need a CMT tailor and these are the workmanship prices they charge to make a 2 pc suit. If you decide to buy fabric, choose a weight that is suitable for the weather in Europe when you attend the wedding. To be safe, can choose 3 season fabric 260g to 300g.

Supremo Tailor half canvassed $500, full canvassed $700, Milanese buttonhole extra $50.
Sakal half canvassed suit $599, full canvassed suit $799
Mills $500 for full canvassed jacket
The suited label half canvassed suit $799, full canvassed suit $1099
Seamless bespoke half canvassed $780
The Cutting Room

Thanks.

 

[darthsid11111]

Hi Darthsid11111, thanks for your expert view. Generally I don't need to wear suit for working or gathering. It is purely for this wedding occasion in Europe and perhaps may have to attend another 1 or 2 in this year. I just want to look smart or rather appropriate at this occasion. That means causal setting maybe out for this suit. Appreciate if you could PM me some tailors for a budget between $800-1000? Thanks.

I haven't tailored anything recently so can't recommend you anything in good faith.

This is a good post that you can consider referring to.

With regards to stylistic choices and colours... For your first and only suit you want to make something that is as versatile as possible. Navy and mid grey are popular choices for business wear because they do not stand out. I would make a strong case for brown as a versatile casual colour as well. This means you'll be able to wear the same outfit over and over again and people wouldn't bat eyelid. Compare this with a crazy check pattern and people would notice when you wear it again.

The same applies to stylistic choices. Tailor a double breast jacket and people would notice. Not so much a navy single breast jacket. Would anyone without sartorial inclinations notice a peak lapel? That's debatable.

The next question you should ask yourself is if you really need to tailor a suit. At the price point you're willing to pay you won't get fantastic quality ot even service simply because there aren't enough margins built in for it. It seems like you don't know what you want either which increases the likelihood you will waste a lot of time and effort try to make your ideal suit but failing at being able to communicate and control the tailor effectively. This means even with all the research in the world you may still end up with something you don't quite like but can't put a finger on.

If you have the luxury of time I would recommend looking through the selections and buying from Spier Mackay they arent the best but they fit your budget and turn out a better quality product than any tailor can do in Singapore at the same price point. Invest in a measuring tape, get all your measurements, and spend the next few days browsing through their suits before buying. Thereafter visit a good alterations tailor like Meng Yee and alter to fit. I guarantee that you will be much happier with the end product as compared to visiting a tailor.

 

[nethdale]

Supremo Tailor half canvassed $500, full canvassed $700, Milanese buttonhole extra $50.
Sakal half canvassed suit $599, full canvassed suit $799
Mills $500 for full canvassed jacket
The suited label half canvassed suit $799, full canvassed suit $1099
Seamless bespoke half canvassed $780
The Cutting Room

Hi Paladin, I am fine with this shade of blue in the YouTube but not those dark tone. Noted on notch lapel. Thanks for those tailors you shared. To save cost, half canvassed is to go but full canvassed seems fits/feels better? Thanks.

 

[nethdale]

I haven't tailored anything recently so can't recommend you anything in good faith.

This is a good post that you can consider referring to.

With regards to stylistic choices and colours... For your first and only suit you want to make something that is as versatile as possible. Navy and mid grey are popular choices for business wear because they do not stand out. I would make a strong case for brown as a versatile casual colour as well. This means you'll be able to wear the same outfit over and over again and people wouldn't bat eyelid. Compare this with a crazy check pattern and people would notice when you wear it again.

The same applies to stylistic choices. Tailor a double breast jacket and people would notice. Not so much a navy single breast jacket. Would anyone without sartorial inclinations notice a peak lapel? That's debatable.

The next question you should ask yourself is if you really need to tailor a suit. At the price point you're willing to pay you won't get fantastic quality ot even service simply because there aren't enough margins built in for it. It seems like you don't know what you want either which increases the likelihood you will waste a lot of time and effort try to make your ideal suit but failing at being able to communicate and control the tailor effectively. This means even with all the research in the world you may still end up with something you don't quite like but can't put a finger on.

If you have the luxury of time I would recommend looking through the selections and buying from Spier Mackay they arent the best but they fit your budget and turn out a better quality product than any tailor can do in Singapore at the same price point. Invest in a measuring tape, get all your measurements, and spend the next few days browsing through their suits before buying. Thereafter visit a good alterations tailor like Meng Yee and alter to fit. I guarantee that you will be much happier with the end product as compared to visiting a tailor.

Thanks. Spier Mackay is a good website but I literally a noob to it and I see which way best suits me.

 

[paladin]

Hi Paladin, I am fine with this shade of blue in the YouTube but not those dark tone. Noted on notch lapel. Thanks for those tailors you shared. To save cost, half canvassed is to go but full canvassed seems fits/feels better? Thanks.

See post #287

 

[darthsid11111]

Thanks. Spier Mackay is a good website but I literally a noob to it and I see which way best suits me.

My point exactly.. With ready to wear you can at least visualise your outfit. With tailoring you are trying to communicate your idea of what you want against a tailor's own interpretation. The first suit likely won't be up to expectations.

 

[nethdale]

My point exactly.. With ready to wear you can at least visualise your outfit. With tailoring you are trying to communicate your idea of what you want against a tailor's own interpretation. The first suit likely won't be up to expectations.

Thank you so much.

 

[MrGDebonair]

Hi Guys,

Does anybody have any good recommendations for Italian-style bespoke specialist tailors in Singapore? Looking to make a Florentine-styled suit next.

Also, does anybody have experience with Italian tailor trunk shows in Singapore, is it worth the extra cost compared to an Italian style suit made in Singapore?

Thanks in advance!

 

[paladin]

Hi Guys,

Does anybody have any good recommendations for Italian-style bespoke specialist tailors in Singapore? Looking to make a Florentine-styled suit next.

Also, does anybody have experience with Italian tailor trunk shows in Singapore, is it worth the extra cost compared to an Italian style suit made in Singapore?

Thanks in advance!

Define Italian style and bespoke. Barchetta pocket, many tailors can do, probably majority, but different types of shoulders, only few can do. Number of vents, you can specify, no issue. Italian fabrics, many tailors carry. Unstructured or half lining? Many tailors can do too, for extra charge.

correct me if I am wrong, I think in Singapore, many tailors do not keep personal patterns, they draft using ’rock of the eye’ from your measurements or alter from existing patterns. Bespoke , maybe need to find The Prestigious?

 

[Jay9999]

Define Italian style and bespoke. Barchetta pocket, many tailors can do, probably majority, but different types of shoulders, only few can do. Number of vents, you can specify, no issue. Italian fabrics, many tailors carry. Unstructured or half lining? Many tailors can do too, for extra charge.

correct me if I am wrong, I think in Singapore, many tailors do not keep personal patterns, they draft using ’rock of the eye’ from your measurements or alter from existing patterns. Bespoke , maybe need to find The Prestigious?

For drafting of personal patterns, why not recommend Dylan & Son?

 

[MrGDebonair]

Define Italian style and bespoke. Barchetta pocket, many tailors can do, probably majority, but different types of shoulders, only few can do. Number of vents, you can specify, no issue. Italian fabrics, many tailors carry. Unstructured or half lining? Many tailors can do too, for extra charge.

correct me if I am wrong, I think in Singapore, many tailors do not keep personal patterns, they draft using ’rock of the eye’ from your measurements or alter from existing patterns. Bespoke , maybe need to find The Prestigious?

Thanks for the replies! Yes, good questions.

What I mean by Italian style in the local context I suppose is someone whose house style adopts many features of Italian tailoring, some of which you have mentioned. Could be Barchetta pockets, structure (or in this case the relative lack thereof), buttonholes, shoulder style, darting etc. I have something quite specific in mind for a Florentine-style suit so it is important that the tailor is at least familiar with the Italian suit-making tradition eg. when their house style adopts many features or is based on Italian suit tailoring concepts. Granted we're in Southeast Asia so I don't expect someone to fit the bill exactly of a central Italian tailor But would appreciate if anybody from their personal knowledge or experience could point me to some tailors like that for me to consult!

Regarding fabric, I am not fussed as it's going to be a more casual project, looking for hopsack in a shade of green so am happy to go with basically any mill which has fabric of the texture and colour I want. Maybe VBC hopsack comes to mind.

On the type of "bespoke" tailoring I am looking for, yes the cutting of personal patterns is fundamental but how do you practically tell which they use? Would be good to learn from the wealth of experience here haha.

No. of fittings to me is not as crucial because sometimes after 1-2 fittings it can be cut very well and there is no need for further wastage. My experience so far has been that it is really obvious when it is made-to-measure, and that the "bespoke" tailors will look at your posture, gait, shoulder slope, length of arms (uneven for me) along with a host of other measurements and images to get the fit pared down, and they will conduct fittings with no definite number set, as needed, could be 1 - 3 from what I've experienced. On whether they save your personal patterns, some of the tailors I've been to have this electronic sheet of your measurements and when you visit they will just confirm very quickly that nothing much has changed in that respect, not sure if that's what you are referring to?

Appreciate the time! Will check out Dylan & Son in the meantime.