Where to tailor clothes, continued...

jimbb80

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Hi all, I am in need of some new shirts and want to check with the more experience of you here in terms of cutting -

I have had some very poor experiences with tailors here to the point I am dreading going through it again. No matter where I go there is always excess material on my upper back between my shoulder blades. Their solution is always extremely high darts which is not professional and does not solve the underlying construction issue.

To those who understand construction – how should this be resolved?
Is it the shoulders that need to be taken in more? or is it the angle of the arm sleeve?

Do any tailors do cuttings by hand here? I am tired of the front facing sales people that don’t know about construction.


Thanks for the help
 

darthsid11111

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Hi all, I am in need of some new shirts and want to check with the more experience of you here in terms of cutting -

I have had some very poor experiences with tailors here to the point I am dreading going through it again. No matter where I go there is always excess material on my upper back between my shoulder blades. Their solution is always extremely high darts which is not professional and does not solve the underlying construction issue.

To those who understand construction – how should this be resolved?
Is it the shoulders that need to be taken in more? or is it the angle of the arm sleeve?

Do any tailors do cuttings by hand here? I am tired of the front facing sales people that don’t know about construction.


Thanks for the help
Have you tried HST tailors before? What I understand is that shirts are typically MTM but my very old experience with them is that HST accounts for more unusual measurements.
 

paladin

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HST, Dylan & Sons, Kay-jen, The Prestigious, the cutting room (TCR) 1982, and Meiko, cut fabric themselves, ie, the fitter is the cutter.

Ehkay, The suited Label, the common suit, have a cutter who comes in occasionally to troubleshoot for challenging clients.

If the back has excess fabric, but the front feels tight, it has to do with having a different posture during measurements taking.
 
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deokiejisoo

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Hi all, I am in need of some new shirts and want to check with the more experience of you here in terms of cutting -

I have had some very poor experiences with tailors here to the point I am dreading going through it again. No matter where I go there is always excess material on my upper back between my shoulder blades. Their solution is always extremely high darts which is not professional and does not solve the underlying construction issue.

To those who understand construction – how should this be resolved?
Is it the shoulders that need to be taken in more? or is it the angle of the arm sleeve?

Do any tailors do cuttings by hand here? I am tired of the front facing sales people that don’t know about construction.


Thanks for the help

As what the other poster said, sometimes it's a posture issue, you could take an image so we can tell, excess fabric can also be caused by incorrect shoulder width or back width or even shoulder height if the excess fabric sort of looks pleated below the neck. Perhaps an image would be better. If your posture is too upright it may cause the excess at the back.

At this point I'm assuming you work out, have wide shoulders/chest and a very small waist?
 
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SE4N23

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Anyone can recommend tailor that does business shirt between 150-250? Tried CYC, Rossi which is around that range but would like to explore others. KayJen is not bad but it cost >$300 for a basic white shirt :(
 

Moratia

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Anyone can recommend tailor that does business shirt between 150-250? Tried CYC, Rossi which is around that range but would like to explore others. KayJen is not bad but it cost >$300 for a basic white shirt :(
I tailor my shirts with collaro (just ordered 2!). Always satisfied
 

strezzor

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Did they measure you or you measured yourself and ordered online?

I did one shirt with them back when they were still at Chinatown and it came out too small. Gave feedback to them during first fitting and one of their guys (not Travis) said the fit was just nice. Being new to tailoring back then, I just accepted it as is but my subsequent experience has proven that their fit was indeed too small.

On another note, does anyone have recommendations for affordable short sleeve knit tees that go well with casual trousers?
 

paladin

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If first fitting is too small, it's a problem as fabrics cut already very hard to let out. If can let out, it means the end product will not have much excess fabric at the seams.

Normally first fitting is a bit loose then the tailor 'shrink' the loose parts to fit. Macham like vacuum wrap
 

strezzor

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If first fitting is too small, it's a problem as fabrics cut already very hard to let out. If can let out, it means the end product will not have much excess fabric at the seams.

Normally first fitting is a bit loose then the tailor 'shrink' the loose parts to fit. Macham like vacuum wrap

Ya that is usually the case, which is why I suspect they pushed me to think that the fit was just right when the first fitting was actually already too small.
 

Rong626

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I've several of their classic button downs but have taken a liking to their lucca button down now

 

fabiaN__

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Did they measure you or you measured yourself and ordered online?

I did one shirt with them back when they were still at Chinatown and it came out too small. Gave feedback to them during first fitting and one of their guys (not Travis) said the fit was just nice. Being new to tailoring back then, I just accepted it as is but my subsequent experience has proven that their fit was indeed too small.

On another note, does anyone have recommendations for affordable short sleeve knit tees that go well with casual trousers?
I also ordered from Collaro before. Measured my own shirt and +/- some of the measurements. So far so good... And don't need to step out of my house.

Quite shiok.
 

Rong626

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Yes, saw a review from Feb 2022 someone made on YouTube. The same shirt costs $60 more now
 

fabiaN__

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Yes, saw a review from Feb 2022 someone made on YouTube. The same shirt costs $60 more now
At that price point... Might be better off going to brick and mortar tailors. Wider range of fabrics selection...
 
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