Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

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thundermarch

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I love how henpecked, p**sywhipped little boys like questioning others and their sexuality.
Speaks of their own inadequacies, and probably their own innate fascinations with phalli.

And oh, I'm sorry, I didn't realise you felt so left out in the discussion that it bothers you till today.
Did I hurt your little feelings little boy?
Truth is, I don't write posts with you in mind, or to cater to your (lack of) intelligence.
Your opinions, or your input, have always, and will always, be inconsequential to any discussion.
 
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DiCaprio

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I love how henpecked, p**sywhipped little boys like questioning others and their sexuality.
Speaks of their own inadequacies, and probably their own innate fascinations with phalli.

And oh, I'm sorry, I didn't realise you felt so left out in the discussion that it bothers you till today.
Did I hurt your little feelings little boy?
Truth is, I don't write posts with you in mind, or to cater to your (lack of) intelligence.
Your opinions, or your input, have always, and will always, be inconsequential to any discussion.
*slow clap*

Sent from Huawei NEXUS 6P using GAGT
 

thundermarch

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Anyway, since the topic is supposed to be shoes.
I'd like to share some input on Meccariello's new RTW offerings.
This is a short review with some pictures.
I've updated the review with some sizing information after I've had the chance to wear them.

IMG_20160808_125254_zpsdmtd0zwf.jpg


IMG_20160808_125318_zpsglziw5os.jpg


Uppers - I am not sure what tannery he uses for his RTW line, but the uppers feel tremendously supple right out the box. Comparing them to my Argentum HW shoes, the uppers feel somewhat thinner (though only very minimally), but this is not a big issue IMO.

Closing / clicking - Very clean and uniform throughout. Closing is really neatly done over the entire shoe. Double row stitching over the captoe and along the eyelets and at the upper aspect of the quarters. The brogueing is also very clean and evenly done. There is no gimping along the seams, giving a cleaner look. Though some folks might prefer it for brogues.

Last / Sizing - I find the Hawksbill last to be very well proportioned. It has a fairly slim silhouette and a gradual taper. It is remniscent (shape wise) somewhat of the Inca (Carmina) last but I wouldn't describe this as almond toed.
Sizing might be a little difficult. Antonio has a very easy to follow, simple sizing guide that can help you gauge your size for his RTW shoes.
I feel that the Hawksbill last has a fairly low instep and is probably a little short. The toebox isn't too generous, and the heel width is pretty average. I sized up to 9E (I'm normally an 8.5) and the instep still feels a little low.

Design - This is one of my favourite adelaide designs to date. Some adelaides have the lower end of the facings markedly "flared out" which I find rather ugly. The curves on this pair give a very well balanced, classic aesthetic.

Outsole - The waist is beveled somewhat, similar in appearance to the Argentum HW waist, but it isn't as tightly done as say, his Aurum line, of course. The outsole stitching can still be seen on close observation. The outer edge of the outsole is not "rolled" over the welt to hide the stitching at the waist. Overall still very nicely done.
The waist is also fiddlebacked. and really nicely done as well.
The outsole stitching is tight and neat, and the welt pricking as well. As nicely done as his Argentum HW.
There is also notch between the heel stack and the waist. A feature I've always liked.

The hand antiqueing is also just gorgeous, icing on the cake. Tastefully done and not garish at all.

One flaw that I do see though, is that the leather quality may be inconsistent. It was somewhat veiny over the quarters of one of the shoes (not very marked, but noticeable on close inspection). Given the quality of the shoes otherwise, and the innovation of his construction technique, and the price of his shoes, I think this is a reasonable trade-off. He does need to cut with some economy.

Overall impressions are still very very positive. They're definitely a big step up from his test shoes (GYW), and fill a gap in between those, and his Argentum HW line.

The attention to detail is remarkable, the finishing is commendable, the materials more than decent, the lasts are extremely nice, and his new construction method is well thought out and brings machine welted shoes one step closer to handwelted stuff.
 
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darthsid11111

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I love how henpecked, p**sywhipped little boys like questioning others and their sexuality.
Speaks of their own inadequacies, and probably their own innate fascinations with phalli.

And oh, I'm sorry, I didn't realise you felt so left out in the discussion that it bothers you till today.
Did I hurt your little feelings little boy?
Truth is, I don't write posts with you in mind, or to cater to your (lack of) intelligence.
Your opinions, or your input, have always, and will always, be inconsequential to any discussion.
Lolol consequential enough to rile you up... Which is enough for me =)

Sent from LGE LG-H815 using GAGT
 

thundermarch

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Don't flatter yourself little boy.
You haven't seen me riled up.
An insult comes my way, I respond to it. It has nothing to do with emotion or anger.

You want to see me riled up. Come do it face to face.
 

Emospence

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Anyway, since the topic is supposed to be shoes.
I'd like to share some input on Meccariello's new RTW offerings.
This is a short review with some pictures.
I've updated the review with some sizing information after I've had the chance to wear them.

IMG_20160808_125254_zpsdmtd0zwf.jpg


IMG_20160808_125318_zpsglziw5os.jpg


Uppers - I am not sure what tannery he uses for his RTW line, but the uppers feel tremendously supple right out the box. Comparing them to my Argentum HW shoes, the uppers feel somewhat thinner (though only very minimally), but this is not a big issue IMO.

Closing / clicking - Very clean and uniform throughout. Closing is really neatly done over the entire shoe. Double row stitching over the captoe and along the eyelets and at the upper aspect of the quarters. The brogueing is also very clean and evenly done. There is no gimping along the seams, giving a cleaner look. Though some folks might prefer it for brogues.

Last / Sizing - I find the Hawksbill last to be very well proportioned. It has a fairly slim silhouette and a gradual taper. It is remniscent (shape wise) somewhat of the Inca (Carmina) last but I wouldn't describe this as almond toed.
Sizing might be a little difficult. Antonio has a very easy to follow, simple sizing guide that can help you gauge your size for his RTW shoes.
I feel that the Hawksbill last has a fairly low instep and is probably a little short. The toebox isn't too generous, and the heel width is pretty average. I sized up to 9E (I'm normally an 8.5) and the instep still feels a little low.

Design - This is one of my favourite adelaide designs to date. Some adelaides have the lower end of the facings markedly "flared out" which I find rather ugly. The curves on this pair give a very well balanced, classic aesthetic.

Outsole - The waist is beveled somewhat, similar in appearance to the Argentum HW waist, but it isn't as tightly done as say, his Aurum line, of course. The outsole stitching can still be seen on close observation. The outer edge of the outsole is not "rolled" over the welt to hide the stitching at the waist. Overall still very nicely done.
The waist is also fiddlebacked. and really nicely done as well.
The outsole stitching is tight and neat, and the welt pricking as well. As nicely done as his Argentum HW.
There is also notch between the heel stack and the waist. A feature I've always liked.

The hand antiqueing is also just gorgeous, icing on the cake. Tastefully done and not garish at all.

One flaw that I do see though, is that the leather quality may be inconsistent. It was somewhat veiny over the quarters of one of the shoes (not very marked, but noticeable on close inspection). Given the quality of the shoes otherwise, and the innovation of his construction technique, and the price of his shoes, I think this is a reasonable trade-off. He does need to cut with some economy.

Overall impressions are still very very positive. They're definitely a big step up from his test shoes (GYW), and fill a gap in between those, and his Argentum HW line.

The attention to detail is remarkable, the finishing is commendable, the materials more than decent, the lasts are extremely nice, and his new construction method is well thought out and brings machine welted shoes one step closer to handwelted stuff.

Cool, can't wait for my black captoes to get here after their holiday is over. Hopefully they'll arrive quick enough for me to try and order another couple pairs before the promo period is over

Went with UK 10 over my usual 9.5 oxford sizing after reading some sizing comments (incl yours) as well as measuring my foot using Antonio's guide..
 

thundermarch

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Cool, can't wait for my black captoes to get here after their holiday is over. Hopefully they'll arrive quick enough for me to try and order another couple pairs before the promo period is over

Went with UK 10 over my usual 9.5 oxford sizing after reading some sizing comments (incl yours) as well as measuring my foot using Antonio's guide..

I hope it goes well.
I really like his RTW stuff, but I can foresee that some people would find sizing tricky. Especially high instep folks.
Do share pics and your thoughts / comments.
 

walk_the_talk

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I hope it goes well.
I really like his RTW stuff, but I can foresee that some people would find sizing tricky. Especially high instep folks.
Do share pics and your thoughts / comments.

Thanks for the nice review and thoughts on sizing. Based on what you shared, I have a strong hunch that AM's RTW will not fit well for my relatively high instep feet. Based on the sizing guide on AM's site, sizing up will likely result in heel slip.

Considering the Argentum HW MTM, but still can't quite bring myself to bite the bullet yet..haha
 

urbanturban

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Thanks for the nice review and thoughts on sizing. Based on what you shared, I have a strong hunch that AM's RTW will not fit well for my relatively high instep feet. Based on the sizing guide on AM's site, sizing up will likely result in heel slip.

Considering the Argentum HW MTM, but still can't quite bring myself to bite the bullet yet..haha

My friend. I am waiting for you to share shipping. Lol.
 

thundermarch

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Thanks for the nice review and thoughts on sizing. Based on what you shared, I have a strong hunch that AM's RTW will not fit well for my relatively high instep feet. Based on the sizing guide on AM's site, sizing up will likely result in heel slip.

Considering the Argentum HW MTM, but still can't quite bring myself to bite the bullet yet..haha

You're welcome man.
I know what you mean. His argentum hw isn't exactly cheap given the recent increase in price.
But I think the fact that you can get a pair of test shoes first and modify the fit further, still makes it a good option I think.
The test shoes are pretty well done btw, even though they're gyw.
 

thundermarch

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My friend. I am waiting for you to share shipping. Lol.

By the way, you folks can also "cham siong" with him and get him to under declare the price. To offset a bit of the cost. Helps a bit.
Don't tell him I said so though.
Just broach the topic subtly.
The magic words are "I accept responsibility if the shipment is lost."
 
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darthsid11111

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No stalking needed here, as your proclivities are way obvious.
Again, you flatter yourself little boy.

Hehe. The guy who's built like a scrawny prepubescent teen challenging people on the internet to meet up face to face calling the kettle boy.

You win the internet for today senpai! Save your rage quit for when that CP1500 Dragonite runs away from you!

Sent from LGE LG-H815 using GAGT
 

Passerby1980

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Hehe. The guy who's built like a scrawny prepubescent teen challenging people on the internet to meet up face to face calling the kettle boy.

You win the internet for today senpai! Save your rage quit for when that CP1500 Dragonite runs away from you

Hey dude, while we all have our personal views about tailors and fabrics, there's no need to make it personal here. Thunder indeed has been kind enough to share commissions and shoeporn with the rest of the community and you've been definitely very very generous and liberal in sharing your opinions about everything sartorial. But let's just keep this place a good sharing space and discussion.
 
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