Working Shoe for Young Exec - Part 2

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jimbb80

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Facebooked them for catalogue, got a msg back saying they're only available to customers in Singapore, told them I'm from Singapore, no replies after. -shrugs- I guess they take Facebook profiles very seriously. :s11:

Oh ok. I emailed them and they were very responsive and sent me the new catalogue. Try emailing them.
 

darthsid11111

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jlCpVGhl.jpg

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1616954355018471&id=484995594881025

Mason & Smith's John Chung wins first at The World Shoe Shining Championship 2018.

Sent from this is a forum bruh, unstick your panties before replying using GAGT
 

thundermarch

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Is a pity, I might not be visiting Napoli.

Was thinking of Florence, most of the good bootmakers are based there.

Ugolini is based in Florence and is one of the more affordable Italian bespoke makers.

Mannina is also based in Florence. And also offers bespoke services.

Moving up in price. Hidetaka Fukaya is also in Florence but more pricey.

There's also Saskia Wittmer, a female cordwainer. I'm not exactly very familiar with her work, but Bloomberg recently ran a rather nice article about her.

And if you really have the money, you can go for Stefano Bemer's SixPence Bespoke (not Blue Bespoke, which is not as good). All SixPence Bespoke shoes are finished by Akira Tani, whose work is absolutely top notch. He's an absolute monster, and very very young too. It's probably in the Japanese DNA.

If you are passing by Rome, I recommend Seiichi Yoshimoto, who goes by the name Perticone. His bottom work is very very good for a mainly Italian based maker.
 
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terras14

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Based on what I am reading, what is being described is "heel spring".

Similar to toe spring, heel spring occurs when the toplift of the heel does not sit completely flush with the ground. Or whatever flat surface it is sitting on. With the posterior (back) part of the heel slightly lifted.

In other words, the "pivot" is actually the breast of the heel.

Heel spring is something very hard to avoid in industrial / factory made shoes because more often than not, factory made shoes use a pre-stacked heel.

As opposed to a bespoke maker, who builds the heel stack layer by layer, carefully balancing the "flat-ness" by skiving and shaping each split lift before he adds the next one. This gives the end result of a perfectly flush heel.

Without this gradual heel building process, it's quite difficult if near impossible to get a totally flush sitting heel. The degree of "heel spring" can vary from maker to maker using the same construction methods, within the same maker but between different pairs of shoes, or even between the left and right shoe of the same pair of shoes. It's really rather unpredictable.

One "RTW" maker though, whom I find circumvents this problem quite well, is Vass. I think they do not use pre-stacked heels. Which is how they attain the flush-ness of the heel stack.

But does heel spring constitute a defective pair of shoes? Not exactly. It is an inherent, nearly inevitable part of the industrial process of making shoes. That arises due to inherently imperfect processes being used. IOW, we expect it to occur. It is the same as saying that GYW is an inherently flawed technique when compared to handwelting. It's not "defective" per se. But it's not perfect.

Hi TM thanks for the detailed write up. Is actually ok to wear but just feel is a bit imbalance thats all. Anyway i bought it to put some rubber soles on and managed to take some pic. The clobber suggest to redo the bottom.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/94838ejksx3px5x/AADkyeiVFh1z2h1Vb-Ty_tfka
 
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Carnage

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Ugolini is based in Florence and is one of the more affordable Italian bespoke makers.

Mannina is also based in Florence. And also offers bespoke services.

Moving up in price. Hidetaka Fukaya is also in Florence but more pricey.

There's also Saskia Wittmer, a female cordwainer. I'm not exactly very familiar with her work, but Bloomberg recently ran a rather nice article about her.

And if you really have the money, you can go for Stefano Bemer's SixPence Bespoke (not Blue Bespoke, which is not as good). All SixPence Bespoke shoes are finished by Akira Tani, whose work is absolutely top notch. He's an absolute monster, and very very young too. It's probably in the Japanese DNA.

If you are passing by Rome, I recommend Seiichi Yoshimoto, who goes by the name Perticone. His bottom work is very very good for a mainly Italian based maker.

Already made an appt with the other Bemer.

Ugolini hasn't replied me yet.
 

nedenow

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anyone has remedy or suggesting for the wear and tear of the leather inner heel cap (don’t know what it’s called) after constant wear. thanks!
 

thltetek

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Hi veteran here, I am planning to get my very first pair of leather shoes and have try do some read up.

After looking through some of the choices online I am interested in getting the pair below but have problem deciding the size.

https://www.skoaktiebolaget.com/collections/carlos-santos/products/carlos-santos-hazel-dress-shoe

Bascially most of my normal running shoe and normal leather shoe size is US size 9 EU 42. I also understand that carlos Santos advise that their shoe size is one full size for US sizing.

But I want to be sure to get my size one time right from this online purchase. So hope someone can recommend me a physical shop for me to try out the sizing as close to carlos santos.

Thank you in advance

The Quarters currently is running MTO orders for Carlos Santos Patina Service Program. They have sample pairs for customers to try. If you're interested, can arrange for a fitting session with them to try out the shoes before placing order, as it's always best to try before purchasing.
 
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