
Depends the cadence u need from the chainring and cogs combination i supposed. I can feel the difference for 12 to 11t on my 53t. 12t too slow for me on the road if i want to beat traffic lights or avoid far behind cars wanting to filter me approaching slip roadI changed from 25-11 to 25-12 cassette. I gain 16t sprocket and lose 11t sprocket for ten speed cassette configuration.
Definitely a good upgrade for me since I rarely use 11t.
Your chainring how many t? I forgot liaoThat is true. I only can sustain 11T the most 1-2 minutes. Mid range gets utilized more. Anyway, wheelonfire left 12-25t haha
Saturday morning less cars at 7am. We can ride a bit on road from hg ave 3 to Still road. From sd shop cross the underpass to ecp, then to cv and back to sk. Estimate 4+ hrs including short breaks.
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If u wear jersey n ride at 20kmh, the wind will make u comfy.But the 10+ 11 sun quite hot ah![]()
But the 10+ 11 sun quite hot ah![]()
For 10 speed Cassette, 11-25t vs 12-25t. Almost no difference right? 11T is rarely used.
Top speed difference and 12-25 will shift smoother on certain teeth.
Probably you need to change the way you cycle. Your cadence and gear ratio maybe wrong if you need to cycle like hamster for 15km/h.
Did you do bike fitting on your roadie?
It's pretty hard to manage 15kmh on road bike cuz chances are, just one single pedal stroke and the road bike will fly off at 25 kmh unless you are on an upslope.![]()
When at pasir ris, do u take shortcut to avoid the steep slope at loyang?
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I usually do Friday night trip..
If not is weekend morning breakfast cycle with wife..out at 630, home by 9+am
On side note, some riders also like to have a spare small cog in case chain drops or becomes not smooth. Not sure how valid or whether necessary. Anyway u already quite decided because of supplier stock and is cheap. I would go ahead also.Another comment on the crankset..I can now really feel the difference as compared to the stock square bb..although 55t, very much easier to pedal than my old 52t. Very smooth and can cruise at 27-30kmh easily..
On side note, some riders also like to have a spare small cog in case chain drops or becomes not smooth. Not sure how valid or whether necessary. Anyway u already quite decided because of supplier stock and is cheap. I would go ahead also.
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Another comment on the crankset..I can now really feel the difference as compared to the stock square bb..although 55t, very much easier to pedal than my old 52t. Very smooth and can cruise at 27-30kmh easily..

S$78 well spend??
I just finish fixing..
Need to find a night time go cycle to wdls waterfront or somewhere like vivo..
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Yes. Really well spent. Very obvious difference in pedaling.
looks good..nice black and white. Haha. Btw what is that front derailleur thing? To prevent chain come off?
woodlands waterfront is a really nice place, overlooking the JB city
dont talk cock leh, i use semi race tires such as conti gp4000s, i puncture every 4000km or so on those tires.To be puncture proof, you need thick rubber, so it will be heavier, wider and slower.
To be fast, the rubber has to be thin so that it will be lighter. Don't underestimate the effects of rotational mass and rolling resistance of tyres. Abs because it is thinner, it is easier to be punctured.
looks like a clone of the FSA Megaexo systemS$78 well spend??
I just finish fixing..
Need to find a night time go cycle to wdls waterfront or somewhere like vivo..
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What's a good compromise between the 2?To be puncture proof, you need thick rubber, so it will be heavier, wider and slower.
To be fast, the rubber has to be thin so that it will be lighter. Don't underestimate the effects of rotational mass and rolling resistance of tyres. Abs because it is thinner, it is easier to be punctured.