[Recommend] Good Mechanical Keyboard

FroztSpectre

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Thanks all for the replies. I'm now inclined to get a tkl and a numpad. I'm familiar with taobao too.

What pcb and casing do you all recommend. I'm looking at hotswap ones by kailh.

Is cherry switches still the brand to beat? Also with cherry still need to do lubrication?

Any recommendations of parts, much appreciated!
IMO no point getting Cherry MX switches for custom keyboards.
Part of getting a custom keyboard is that you'll be able to get those unique/better/different switches, other than the standard ones you see in prebuilts.
But it's honestly quite hard to say what you will like, without actually testing those switches. Unless you know of someone who has a switch testing kit, you can only base it on other people's reviews.

And yes, even MX switches need to be lubed if you want it feel/sound better.

If you're lazy to lube switches, you can always pay people on Carousell to do it for you, or buy factory-lubed switches. For example, if you like Tactile switches, you can easily get 36 Glorious Panda switches that are factory-lubed already. It's probably not lubed with the typical Krytox 205g0 / Krytox 105 (For springs), but should work better than unlubed.

Some switches that I've heard of (In no particular order):
Linears:
Gateron Yellow
Gateron Ink Blacks
Alpacas
C3 Tangerines

Tactile:
Holy (Glorious) Panda
Boba U4T
Halo Clear
 

mac_oasis

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Hi Gurus, suddenly today 2 of my keys are not working. I have verified by swopping the switches but still not working ? However there is still led whenever the key is pressed

What may be the issue ? Am pretty new to this
 

FroztSpectre

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Hi Gurus, suddenly today 2 of my keys are not working. I have verified by swopping the switches but still not working ? However there is still led whenever the key is pressed

What may be the issue ? Am pretty new to this

Mech keyboard yeh? Try using tweezers? Each tip on one hole.
If it doesnt register, means probably PCB spoil?
 

FroztSpectre

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Hi, yes it's a mech keyboard RK84. Ok will try that
If doesnt work, could be that the hotswap socket spoil.
If the key is already fked, then might as well just desolder the key's hotswap socket out. Then test again using tweezers. If tweezers work, means is really hotswap socket spoil. If after desoldering, and even when using tweezers, it doesnt register the key, then most likely is really PCB spoil.
 

mac_oasis

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If doesnt work, could be that the hotswap socket spoil.
If the key is already fked, then might as well just desolder the key's hotswap socket out. Then test again using tweezers. If tweezers work, means is really hotswap socket spoil. If after desoldering, and even when using tweezers, it doesnt register the key, then most likely is really PCB spoil.
I tried the affect hotswap sprocket at other locations and they are working but not at the position of the affected keys. Hmm.. not so sure if I have the competency in doing soldering lol
 

FroztSpectre

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I tried the affect hotswap sprocket at other locations and they are working but not at the position of the affected keys. Hmm.. not so sure if I have the competency in doing soldering lol
I referring to this thing.
1_53b1a461-a7cd-4585-926e-14313b452be3_1024x1024.jpg

Hot_Swap_Sockets_1200x800.jpg


There's a chance that the hotswap socket itself is faulty (not the switch).

So unless you know how to desolder the thing itself, it's hard to tell whether is PCB spoil, or the hotswap thing spoil.
 

noobzpro

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IMO no point getting Cherry MX switches for custom keyboards.
Part of getting a custom keyboard is that you'll be able to get those unique/better/different switches, other than the standard ones you see in prebuilts.
But it's honestly quite hard to say what you will like, without actually testing those switches. Unless you know of someone who has a switch testing kit, you can only base it on other people's reviews.

And yes, even MX switches need to be lubed if you want it feel/sound better.

If you're lazy to lube switches, you can always pay people on Carousell to do it for you, or buy factory-lubed switches. For example, if you like Tactile switches, you can easily get 36 Glorious Panda switches that are factory-lubed already. It's probably not lubed with the typical Krytox 205g0 / Krytox 105 (For springs), but should work better than unlubed.

Some switches that I've heard of (In no particular order):
Linears:
Gateron Yellow
Gateron Ink Blacks
Alpacas
C3 Tangerines

Tactile:
Holy (Glorious) Panda
Boba U4T
Halo Clear
Much appreciated for the list bro. Any of those keys clicky like mx blues?

what pcb is recommended for tkl or 87 keys thanks!
 

FroztSpectre

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Much appreciated for the list bro. Any of those keys clicky like mx blues?

what pcb is recommended for tkl or 87 keys thanks!
Nope. Clicky switches are a separate category on its own.
Tactile are closer to clicky switches, but without the audible click. They have the same bump as those MX Blue switches, but without the audible click.

So if you like the "bump" feeling, but not the audible click sound, tactile switches are for you.

mechanical-keyboard-main-1000x600.jpg


PCB, i assume you meant the whole kit?
Depends on your budget. There are budget $60SGD kits, up to $1000s kit.
There are ppl recommending RK keyboards, then just swapping out the stabilizers and switches.
Previously someone mentioned Drop Alt (65% version), you can take a look at Drop Ctrl (TKL version), or even Drop ENTR (TKL budget version).
NovelKeys (NK) also got their own TKL kits, but those are usually out of stock lol.
There's also GMMK TKL kits, which you can get for S$99 on Lazada (Xtreme Solution) for the barebone kit.

Honestly there are alot of kits out there, it just depends on what budget you have.
 

RouK3ziLa

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IMO no point getting Cherry MX switches for custom keyboards.
Part of getting a custom keyboard is that you'll be able to get those unique/better/different switches, other than the standard ones you see in prebuilts.
But it's honestly quite hard to say what you will like, without actually testing those switches. Unless you know of someone who has a switch testing kit, you can only base it on other people's reviews.

And yes, even MX switches need to be lubed if you want it feel/sound better.

If you're lazy to lube switches, you can always pay people on Carousell to do it for you, or buy factory-lubed switches. For example, if you like Tactile switches, you can easily get 36 Glorious Panda switches that are factory-lubed already. It's probably not lubed with the typical Krytox 205g0 / Krytox 105 (For springs), but should work better than unlubed.

Some switches that I've heard of (In no particular order):
Linears:
Gateron Yellow
Gateron Ink Blacks
Alpacas
C3 Tangerines

Tactile:
Holy (Glorious) Panda
Boba U4T
Halo Clear
wonder why no1 talking abt oem/fakes .. not say dont want to support the OGs but .. really those orginals switches are so damn expensive .. same goes with those pbt keycaps and boards ..
 

noobzpro

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Nope. Clicky switches are a separate category on its own.
Tactile are closer to clicky switches, but without the audible click. They have the same bump as those MX Blue switches, but without the audible click.

So if you like the "bump" feeling, but not the audible click sound, tactile switches are for you.

mechanical-keyboard-main-1000x600.jpg


PCB, i assume you meant the whole kit?
Depends on your budget. There are budget $60SGD kits, up to $1000s kit.
There are ppl recommending RK keyboards, then just swapping out the stabilizers and switches.
Previously someone mentioned Drop Alt (65% version), you can take a look at Drop Ctrl (TKL version), or even Drop ENTR (TKL budget version).
NovelKeys (NK) also got their own TKL kits, but those are usually out of stock lol.
There's also GMMK TKL kits, which you can get for S$99 on Lazada (Xtreme Solution) for the barebone kit.

Honestly there are alot of kits out there, it just depends on what budget you have.

Understood, I have decided to go for the kailh box jade after hearing them on video. sounds very satisfying.

So yes next im looking for the kit. i dont mind getting part by part for the kit to get the best of each such as pcb, case, stabilizers. more research shall be done. are kbdfans stuff good?
 

jonnyboy91

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Understood, I have decided to go for the kailh box jade after hearing them on video. sounds very satisfying.

So yes next im looking for the kit. i dont mind getting part by part for the kit to get the best of each such as pcb, case, stabilizers. more research shall be done. are kbdfans stuff good?

Yes, the tofu 60%/65% kits from KBDfans are very popular entry level custom keyboard if you want to get yourself started. The full kit minus switches and keycaps is roughly $200, which you can get from their official store on taobao.

Tofu 65%

Tofu 60%

kbd75v2 75% (pcb requires soldering for switches)
 
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FroztSpectre

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wonder why no1 talking abt oem/fakes .. not say dont want to support the OGs but .. really those orginals switches are so damn expensive .. same goes with those pbt keycaps and boards ..
Mostly quality difference ba. Depends on how much extra are you willing to pay on the differences in quality.

Try out Outemu Silent switches and Cherry MX Silent switches. Outemu switches are "clones" of Cherry MX switches.
One heaven and one hell. LOL. Even after lubing my Outemu Silent switches, there's still this feint spring ping, when compared to my Cherry MX Slients.

Kailh is also a clones of Cherry MX as well, but both of them feel and sound so different.

And Gateron original switches aren't even expensive. Gateron Yellows are like what, 22c-30c a piece? A full 104 key keyboard will cost $23~$31.20 in terms of switches. For comparison, Cherry MX switches (3pins) are like 40c a piece on KBDfans. Alpaca Linears are like double of Cherry MX switches @ 80c a piece roughly, and Glorious Panda switches are like almost S$1 per piece. Outemu switches are like 12c a piece.

(WAIT! WHAT ABOUT GLORIOUS / HOLY PANDA CLONES?!!)
Ya there also exist Clones of Clones. Like Glorious Panda and its clone variety. Glorious Panda switches are so dang expensive, so why not get Glorious Panda clones from taobao? Well, quality differences lor. It still feels and sounds different from the originals. Some singaporean youtuber (Squashyboy) actually bought both, blindfolded his friends, and got them to test out Legit Holy Panda and Fake Holy Panda + a secret Cherry MX browns that he never told them about. Both his friend (correctly) pointed the better feeling one as the legit holy panda, and when one of them tried the MX Browns (while still blindfolded and not knowing there's MX browns), he immediately said "wait are these browns?... these are nasty"

HOWEVER that being said, paying double the price of a switch doesnt mean you get 2x better quality. You could be paying double the price, but there's only a small marginal difference.

Same for keycaps. Thickness of keycaps, legends consistency, texture of keycaps, warping of keys on longer keys like shift, spacebars etc. Cheaper/clones version generally use inferior material or have poorer quality checks. To an average person, you won't be able to tell too much one la. Is it worth paying $200++ for GMK ABS keycaps, when you could be paying 30% of the price for clones of it on Taobao? Obviously there's going to be quality differences, but well, it's a fraction of the price.

Same as keyboard kits ba. Casing material and all that stuff.

Again, same for AAA replica watches la. Why buy a $18k Rolex Sub 16610, when you can get a AAA Super Replica version of it for less than $1.8k.

TL;DR:
Quality differences. Depends on whether you're willing to pay extra for the differences in quality. You could be paying double the price for a small marginal difference in quality.
 

RouK3ziLa

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Mostly quality difference ba. Depends on how much extra are you willing to pay on the differences in quality.

Try out Outemu Silent switches and Cherry MX Silent switches. Outemu switches are "clones" of Cherry MX switches.
One heaven and one hell. LOL. Even after lubing my Outemu Silent switches, there's still this feint spring ping, when compared to my Cherry MX Slients.

Kailh is also a clones of Cherry MX as well, but both of them feel and sound so different.

And Gateron original switches aren't even expensive. Gateron Yellows are like what, 22c-30c a piece? A full 104 key keyboard will cost $23~$31.20 in terms of switches. For comparison, Cherry MX switches (3pins) are like 40c a piece on KBDfans. Alpaca Linears are like double of Cherry MX switches @ 80c a piece roughly, and Glorious Panda switches are like almost S$1 per piece. Outemu switches are like 12c a piece.

(WAIT! WHAT ABOUT GLORIOUS / HOLY PANDA CLONES?!!)
Ya there also exist Clones of Clones. Like Glorious Panda and its clone variety. Glorious Panda switches are so dang expensive, so why not get Glorious Panda clones from taobao? Well, quality differences lor. It still feels and sounds different from the originals. Some singaporean youtuber (Squashyboy) actually bought both, blindfolded his friends, and got them to test out Legit Holy Panda and Fake Holy Panda + a secret Cherry MX browns that he never told them about. Both his friend (correctly) pointed the better feeling one as the legit holy panda, and when one of them tried the MX Browns (while still blindfolded and not knowing there's MX browns), he immediately said "wait are these browns?... these are nasty"

HOWEVER that being said, paying double the price of a switch doesnt mean you get 2x better quality. You could be paying double the price, but there's only a small marginal difference.

Same for keycaps. Thickness of keycaps, legends consistency, texture of keycaps, warping of keys on longer keys like shift, spacebars etc. Cheaper/clones version generally use inferior material or have poorer quality checks. To an average person, you won't be able to tell too much one la. Is it worth paying $200++ for GMK ABS keycaps, when you could be paying 30% of the price for clones of it on Taobao? Obviously there's going to be quality differences, but well, it's a fraction of the price.

Same as keyboard kits ba. Casing material and all that stuff.

Again, same for AAA replica watches la. Why buy a $18k Rolex Sub 16610, when you can get a AAA Super Replica version of it for less than $1.8k.

TL;DR:
Quality differences. Depends on whether you're willing to pay extra for the differences in quality. You could be paying double the price for a small marginal difference in quality.
Thats why fakes are hit and miss .. i played with some fake keycaps .. some of them are really good quality and when price compare to orginals one .. is too far already .. these days orginal gmk of sorts cost like near 200 .. thats fuking madness .. the fake max sub 70$ inculding shipping.,
 

astones153

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Fellas, I got a baffling problem with my keyboard. I bought an AOC GK410 for cheap on lazada during the 7.7 promotions, at about $25, but now the right arrow key on my keyboard is busted. It's not that it isn't working- it works, but instead of getting a right arrow output on keypress it gives me an up arrow output. The backlight behind that keycap also flickers on and off intermittently. I googled for abit then tried using sharpkeys to registry hack the keyboard inputs so right arrow keypresses give me right arrow output, but now the keypress just gives me both up arrow then right arrow inputs at once. I asked a bunch of friends and they told me it might be bridged contacts, which I am not entirely sure how to fix, beyond just cleaning up any loose hairs and dust on the surface.

Are my friends on the right track with my keyboard issue, and is there any way to rectify it without needing to purchase new equipment altogether? Or should I just dump the thing and consider a new keyboard altogether?
 

Lastwishes

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Fellas, I got a baffling problem with my keyboard. I bought an AOC GK410 for cheap on lazada during the 7.7 promotions, at about $25, but now the right arrow key on my keyboard is busted. It's not that it isn't working- it works, but instead of getting a right arrow output on keypress it gives me an up arrow output. The backlight behind that keycap also flickers on and off intermittently. I googled for abit then tried using sharpkeys to registry hack the keyboard inputs so right arrow keypresses give me right arrow output, but now the keypress just gives me both up arrow then right arrow inputs at once. I asked a bunch of friends and they told me it might be bridged contacts, which I am not entirely sure how to fix, beyond just cleaning up any loose hairs and dust on the surface.

Are my friends on the right track with my keyboard issue, and is there any way to rectify it without needing to purchase new equipment altogether? Or should I just dump the thing and consider a new keyboard altogether?
If the right arrow outputs up arrow, what does the up arrow key output?

Your friends might be on to something, but you'll need some level of troubleshooting to really pin down the problem on the pcb. If you're not able to diy, might not be worth paying for repairs given the price of the board.
 

astones153

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If the right arrow outputs up arrow, what does the up arrow key output?

Your friends might be on to something, but you'll need some level of troubleshooting to really pin down the problem on the pcb. If you're not able to diy, might not be worth paying for repairs given the price of the board.
Up arrow keypress results in up arrow output, nothing wrong there.

Edit: Think I'll just send it in for repairs, apparently its covered under warranty. Unsure how long it'll take but I'll probably just get a better keyboard by then. Any suggestions for a backlit 87 keyboard around a $70 budget?
 
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