The Watch Thread - Part 8

[a562140]

Laurent Farrier and Roger Smith would like to defer . Not always is everything about "atas-ness" nor the need to flaunt.

Rolex's control and dedication to their entire manufacturing process is nothing short of magnificent, to the extent of having their own in-house foundry to control the quality and purity of the metals utilised. Such an incredible feat, possibly enough to render one speechless once the immense magnitude and intricacy of the supply chain is realised. IMO only second to Seiko's legendary effort to R&D and produce the movement lub in-house!

Alas, what was once first and foremost a professional tool has now become a rather "gauche" piece of jewellery given consumer sentiment.

the two ideas can co exist. rolex cost of production is very low because of extreme standardization of parts and the relatively high volume that they sell compared to premium watchmakers. and while they used to be the pioneers and the biggest spenders in advertising, they still are one of the biggest advertised/sponsored watch brand today.

 

[a562140]

True but more Asian enjoy flaunting than Ang mo.
Rolex understand Asian DNA to do so. Dude just stating the majority not the minority or in fact few who can afford smith's work
Bottom line Rolex and smith works on different principles and their audience different.

To some it's still a tool but in the eyes of most ppl just a jewelry.

This segment of elitist materialistic fashion crowd first reared in head in paris and europe. Very high end, very branded so birthplace of all those fashion brands including and industry leaders.

Just that Asia is nouveau riche, and whole societies jumped on the bandwagon and wanted to emulate that high end segment with rolex and other brands like chanel etc. In the 70's and 80's generally large segments of Asians flaunting big brands were frowned upon generally by much of the world, much like the mainland chinese are with their ferraris today.

rolex was lucky that their big spending advertising campaign initiative coincided with the rise of wealth in asia, and that cemented their position in the watch world.

its a fascinating case study for advertising/communications experts, but hindsight also favours the victors a lot more.

 

[a562140]

Usually microbrands do not well in stores but direct
Steinhart may have moved away from micro

When I think micro I think mk2, guinand , Uhr or kemmner

TACTICO GEOMASTER GMT WATCH. LIMITED EDITION 88 PIECES. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/13982518/tactico-geomaster-gmt-watch-limited-edition-88-pie

recommended - high price due to ETA movement.

 

[Strawberry_Cream]

Seriously, ALS > PP. Their gorgeously decorated movements literally occupy almost the entire case diameter edge-to-edge which you can admire from their display casebacks! Something PP simply cannot compare.

better consider maintenance cost when getting high end stuff.

 

[a562140]

I will. Whoever brings out the design I like and backs it up with quality I'll get it. Brand name doesn't mean much to some. Example would be I hate the design language of ball, would rather dump it on a micro brand like aquadive. But imo, micro brand are lacking in refinement of the case design. Only exception for me would be halios/aquadive.

I will add crepas and SAS to the list some higher end squale.

In the end for microbrand you pretty much get what you pay for - and mostly rewarding the sacrifice, effort and risks that the small watch company owner undertakes.

Very little goes into advertising, boutiques and salespeople salaries. If there is it is pretty transparent.

So ou kinda know what you are paying for and what you are getting.

 

[a562140]

Anyone on Squale watch. Looking at 30 ATMOS Horizon GMT.... Any reviews. Thanks.

not this one but I can vouch for Squale's quality and value for money. also the current management is doing well staying true to the rich history of the brand:

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/blood-in-the-water-water-in-its-blood-a-brief-history-of-squale

 

[a562140]

I think ppl who goes for microbrand are different ppl from going for big brand watch. Real watch enthusiast i think will just buy if they like it regardless micro or big brand.

I do go for both though. But for your qns, if it was me i'm willing.

Pics please !

 

[villan]

i'm thinking of getting either a Stowa or Halios.....besides movement, how's the build quality of both brands?

 

[a562140]

never owned a stowa but can confirm that halios' value retention is better. something to consider if you are price concious.

 

[villan]

never owned a stowa but can confirm that halios' value retention is better. something to consider if you are price concious.

hmm...Halios Delfin is available now!

 

[pwillie]

waiting for Halios seriously sexy sunburst blue on Tropik SS

 

[Henabi]

Wearing my ah pek watch on a hazy Sunday morning... Hope the sky will be clear soonest!!!

Satki siol!!! TT gold date just with fluted bezel.

 

[Henabi]

not this one but I can vouch for Squale's quality and value for money. also the current management is doing well staying true to the rich history of the brand:

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/blood-in-the-water-water-in-its-blood-a-brief-history-of-squale

The bracelet design very nice.

 

[a562140]

hmm...Halios Delfin is available now!

ugh! just after i got the "elfin"

 

[xuan87]

Usually microbrands do not well in stores but direct
Steinhart may have moved away from micro

When I think micro I think mk2, guinand , Uhr or kemmner

TACTICO GEOMASTER GMT WATCH. LIMITED EDITION 88 PIECES. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/13982518/tactico-geomaster-gmt-watch-limited-edition-88-pie

What would be a good definition of a micro brand? From what I understand, Steinhart is still pretty much a one man team.

 

[PiPiChew]

Personally I have a "thing" for microbrands. They give me a feeling that whatever I pay for the watch goes directly into costs and profits. None or very little of it goes to advertising.

Damasko, Nomos etc to me are really high quality value for money watches (but not cheap). Always liked Sinn too but they seem to be getting more expensive nowadays

Sent from 10 Buangkok View, Buangkok Green Medical Park using GAGT

 

[LondoBell]

What would be a good definition of a micro brand? From what I understand, Steinhart is still pretty much a one man team.

they are not listed under any major grp and perhaps not very well known by other than WIS.

 

[BeanFarmer]

Any recommendations to get watch buckles online? Got the only 18mm leather strap left at K2 which came with a silver buckle. Looking for a gold one to match new vintage pickup

 

[villan]

ugh! just after i got the "elfin"

there's now PVD Delfin!!!

 

[xuan87]

recommended - high price due to ETA movement.

Featured on wornandwound too. I like the looks but out of my budget for now. WandW are pretty good at picking out good watch choices from Kickstarter and they cover a lot of micro brands and cheaper options from the big brands. Currently my favourite watch review site