But thats IWC - it started out as a microbrand, founder was American but moved operations to Switzerland...its a case study of enterprise and innovation.
Well they were mostly contract/instrument makers. Alot like Panerai.
Thing is,you cant really compare the IWC of now and the IWC of then, both in purpose and direction.
IWC had heritage handed to them. Aside from the Portuguese (also a contract), they were the few select original makers of British and German military Aviator watches. Significant enough that they still proclaim their aviator heritage as a major marketing point.
However, it's how one builds on and appreciates their heritage that really sets the big league lads apart from the boy toys. IWC really tossed that one out of the window with how they decided to greedily leverage off both heritage by mashing both aesthetics into a franken-watch.
The Aviator Watch company with a "modern" Pilot that has little to nothing in common to whatever design elements that made the originals so famous.
Panerai - dead brand revived... and the list goes on.
Tbh same same, another House awarded an iconic contract, who got bought over and trying to break into the Haute world. Technical wise also same same.
But I'll give it to Panerai for sticking to the basic design aesthetics that made them so distinctive. And their basic line is not too bad and pretty in line with their heritage. Its really mostly their attempts at Higher-end offerings that get people's knickers in a knot.
P.S My Humble Opinion. YMMV