Thermal Paste Specification Comparison

Yongkit

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1738021903341.png

Left: GX-14
Right : MX 6

initial test, MX6 have better idle temp (second column)
however on normal operation the GX-14 is showing cooler temp compare MX6

below reading max when running CR24

1738025027993.png
 
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Phen8210

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My mistake, should have circle the left screenshot at max reading compare right screenshot current reading for apple to apple.

Is your PBO setting the same? The power draw is not the same between your left and right
 

KleoZy

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Is your PBO setting the same? The power draw is not the same between your left and right
that's very normal. when your motherboard detect that it can push as more cooling headroom, PBO2 or PBO3 will kicks in.. as the processor for 7000 series is lock to 95 and 9000 series is lock to 85 before throttling. so when @Yongkit place the new thermal paste which is 10°C cooler at load than MX6.. the processor got headroom therefore motherboard took control and the draw more wattage. but @Yongkit did not illustrated the cpu clock frequency of each core. ar bo can conclude how well the thermal paste perform.
 
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Phen8210

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that's very normal. when your motherboard detect that it can push as more cooling headroom, PBO2 or PBO3 will kicks in.. as the processor for 7000 series is lock to 95 and 9000 series is lock to 85 before throttling. so when @Yongkit place the new thermal paste which is 10°C cooler at load then MX6.. the processor got headroom therefore motherboard took control and the draw more wattage. but @Yongkit did not illustrated the cpu clock frequency of each core. ar bo can conclude how well the thermal paste perform.

oh nvm, his first picture with comparison is for idle only, I thought it was also for load and went to see the max readings there and didnt look at second pic, under load one dont have comparison right?
 

KleoZy

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oh nvm, his first picture with comparison is for idle only, I thought it was also for load and went to see the max readings there and didnt look at second pic, under load one dont have comparison right?
Yup. that's what I meant.. infact idle you can ignore.. what's more important is the load.. fiddling with so many AIOs with their own paste and such.. you will be shock to see that idle high but when comes to load, my god.. crazy insane temperature.. the 9800X3D is one of the craziest processor.. if you do it right.. every game you play, even cyberpunk,. you won't hit 75°C.. can be as riduclous as 69°C, if you have damn good airflow in your case (Critial point to keep mobo components cool, M.2, Rams and VRM Heatsink) and also push pull configuration on 360 AIOs that has thick rads like the LF3, Asus Ryujinn 3 extreme or even the TRYX Panaroma 360. Even better if you use 280 LF3 push pulll or 420 LF3 (just push). but I do know alot dont like 280 liquid AIO, but they run so much quieter.

Off Topic
For me, I always look at cases with side intake so that I can place 280 liquid AIO (Hose down) with push pull configuration and to have GPU Vertically mounted. advantage of it.. yes you are pushing air in through the radiator at the side, though warm air goes into the case. have no fear, bottom fans pushing cool air in to cool your GPU pushes warm air up directly (due to Vertical Mount). Along the way, it also pushes the side warm air up. the key is to top.. open space for top fans to draw warm air out. Thats why I am getting good temps on both CPU and GPU. the case I favor most are 1) O11D Mini and 2) Montech King 95 Pro

Additional info, I don't use fanciful fans or expensive fans. Airflow is all about how you torque it.
On my old O11D system, I just use P12 and P14 from arctic, For King 95 Pro, I just use the AX and RX 120mm/140mm fans.. just need to torque the amount of air in and the amount of air out.

Last but not least, it's a must to do PBO2 (Curve Optimizer) or PBO3 (Curve Shaper) + Vcore offset + soc volt to 1.12v instead of 1.2v, load line calibration depends on mobo.

Proven on King 95 Pro with Intel 14700K as for AM5 7950X or 9950X, same applies, just that I don't have a screen shot but can only tell you my experiences.
53qSOrD.png
 
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soreloser

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Yup. that's what I meant.. infact idle you can ignore.. what's more important is the load.. fiddling with so many AIOs with their own paste and such.. you will be shock to see that idle high but when comes to load, my god.. crazy insane temperature.. the 9800X3D is one of the craziest processor.. if you do it right.. every game you play, even cyberpunk,. you won't hit 75°C.. can be as riduclous as 69°C, if you have damn good airflow in your case (Critial point to keep mobo components cool, M.2, Rams and VRM Heatsink) and also push pull configuration on 360 AIOs that has thick rads like the LF3, Asus Ryujinn 3 extreme or even the TRYX Panaroma 360. Even better if you use 280 LF3 push pulll or 420 LF3 (just push). but I do know alot dont like 280 liquid AIO, but they run so much quieter.

Off Topic
For me, I always look at cases with side intake so that I can place 280 liquid AIO (Hose down) with push pull configuration and to have GPU Vertically mounted. advantage of it.. yes you are pushing air in through the radiator at the side, though warm air goes into the case. have no fear, bottom fans pushing cool air in to cool your GPU pushes warm air up directly (due to Vertical Mount). Along the way, it also pushes the side warm air up. the key is to top.. open space for top fans to draw warm air out. Thats why I am getting good temps on both CPU and GPU. the case I favor most are 1) O11D Mini and 2) Montech King 95 Pro

Additional info, I don't use fanciful fans or expensive fans. Airflow is all about how you torque it.
On my old O11D system, I just use P12 and P14 from arctic, For King 95 Pro, I just use the AX and RX 120mm/140mm fans.. just need to torque the amount of air in and the amount of air out.

Last but not least, it's a must to do PBO2 (Curve Optimizer) or PBO3 (Curve Shaper) + Vcore offset + soc volt to 1.12v instead of 1.2v, load line calibration depends on mobo.

Proven on King 95 Pro with Intel 14700K as for AM5 7950X or 9950X, same applies, just that I don't have a screen shot but can only tell you my experiences.
53qSOrD.png
Are u planning on testing the AMeCh SGT-4? Seen some videos on it and the results are pretty interesting:
 

Phen8210

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Yup. that's what I meant.. infact idle you can ignore.. what's more important is the load.. fiddling with so many AIOs with their own paste and such.. you will be shock to see that idle high but when comes to load, my god.. crazy insane temperature.. the 9800X3D is one of the craziest processor.. if you do it right.. every game you play, even cyberpunk,. you won't hit 75°C.. can be as riduclous as 69°C, if you have damn good airflow in your case (Critial point to keep mobo components cool, M.2, Rams and VRM Heatsink) and also push pull configuration on 360 AIOs that has thick rads like the LF3, Asus Ryujinn 3 extreme or even the TRYX Panaroma 360. Even better if you use 280 LF3 push pulll or 420 LF3 (just push). but I do know alot dont like 280 liquid AIO, but they run so much quieter.

Off Topic
For me, I always look at cases with side intake so that I can place 280 liquid AIO (Hose down) with push pull configuration and to have GPU Vertically mounted. advantage of it.. yes you are pushing air in through the radiator at the side, though warm air goes into the case. have no fear, bottom fans pushing cool air in to cool your GPU pushes warm air up directly (due to Vertical Mount). Along the way, it also pushes the side warm air up. the key is to top.. open space for top fans to draw warm air out. Thats why I am getting good temps on both CPU and GPU. the case I favor most are 1) O11D Mini and 2) Montech King 95 Pro

Additional info, I don't use fanciful fans or expensive fans. Airflow is all about how you torque it.
On my old O11D system, I just use P12 and P14 from arctic, For King 95 Pro, I just use the AX and RX 120mm/140mm fans.. just need to torque the amount of air in and the amount of air out.

Last but not least, it's a must to do PBO2 (Curve Optimizer) or PBO3 (Curve Shaper) + Vcore offset + soc volt to 1.12v instead of 1.2v, load line calibration depends on mobo.

Proven on King 95 Pro with Intel 14700K as for AM5 7950X or 9950X, same applies, just that I don't have a screen shot but can only tell you my experiences.
53qSOrD.png

wah your post so long i lazy read leh, sorry i am very blunt hahaha

Anyway yeah, gaming is sure non issue because draw not that high, problem is the multi core high load that time temp quickly go up

As for me, I use PTM7950 that i got few years back. Since then i never changed since it’s very durable and lasts for years, but it can have a long settling time to reach its potential depending on how uneven the surface is. Applying it isn’t an issue for me, it’s almost second nature by now. Thermal paste, on the other hand is the other way around and loses its strength every few months if the PC is used actively and heats up daily.
 
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KleoZy

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Are u planning on testing the AMeCh SGT-4? Seen some videos on it and the results are pretty interesting:

I am already using it for sometime and recommending it to most I know. It's cheap and it performs even better than the MX6. Some might say that they didn't get good results but for me, I have a consistency on thermal application unless the paste is too thick (refer to spoiler below)

MmTjVjw.jpg

it comes with a card and spatula
Dnj3DzP.jpg


The key on thermal paste is not to apply alot, a thin layer which allows your coldplate to sit nicely and firmly.
I always apply this method (timestamp 02:28).
you can laugh at as I am OCD but with a reasons. This method is not new but I just implemented some new ways.

Reason to apply this way.
  1. When you place your finger, your heat from your finger will transfer to the paste, this makes spreading very easy
  2. As mention, a thin layer. around 1mm to 1.5mm thickness. This is just as an estimation on your finger. As it takes time and practice with the feel on how thick or thin when you spread it.
  3. You won't waste paste as the scotch tape will contain the paste while you are spreading it. As mentioned, with a little practice and feel, I am able to get thermal results close to 90% accuracy.
  4. There won't be much mess, easy to clean or to reapply thermal paste during maintenance.
  5. This to some is overboard, but for me, I don't need the AM5 protective shield or contact frame. AM5 1718 socket is aligned properly, if you apply contact frame, sometimes it can worsten the thermal result, due to unbalance torque.

if anyone interested, at 19 bucks you can get a 20g tube https://amzn.asia/d/2ied91z

@Phen8210 is ok no worries.. :) PTM7950 is overall good. just that I perfer paste as am again OCD, I do maintenance every 6months to keep my PC Parts clean and sparkling.

 
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Phen8210

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no wonder, i do maintenance every 2 year, otherwise every month take the external filter and wash lol.
 

soreloser

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I am already using it for sometime and recommending it to most I know. It's cheap and it performs even better than the MX6. Some might say that they didn't get good results but for me, I have a consistency on thermal application unless the paste is too thick (refer to spoiler below)

MmTjVjw.jpg

it comes with a card and spatula
Dnj3DzP.jpg


The key on thermal paste is not to apply alot, a thin layer which allows your coldplate to sit nicely and firmly.
I always apply this method (timestamp 02:28).
you can laugh at as I am OCD but with a reasons. This method is not new but I just implemented some new ways.

Reason to apply this way.
  1. When you place your finger, your heat from your finger will transfer to the paste, this make spread very easy
  2. As mention, a thin layer. around 1mm to 1.5mm thickness. This is just as a estimated on your finger. As it takes time and practice with the feel on how thick or thin when you spread it.
  3. You won't waste paste as the scotch tape will contain the paste while you are spreading it. As mentioned, with a little practice and feel, I am able to get theramal results close to 90% accuracy.
  4. There won't be much mess, easy to clean or to reapply thermal paste during maintenance.
  5. This to some is overboard, but to me, I don't need the AM5 protective shield or contact frame. AM5 1718 socket is aligned properly, if you apply contact frame, sometimes it can worsten the thermal result, due to unbalance torque.

if anyone interested, at 19 bucks you can get a 20g tube https://amzn.asia/d/2ied91z

@Phen8210 is ok no worries.. :) PTM7950 is overall good. just that I perfer paste as am again OCD, I do maintenance every 6months to keep my PC Parts clean and sparkling.


What are your thoughts on its longevity? I'm currently using mx4 cause i have a 20g tube, but this one seems interesting for sure
 

KleoZy

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What are your thoughts on its longevity? I'm currently using mx4 cause i have a 20g tube, but this one seems interesting for sure
The viscosity is almost identical to MX6 but thicker than MX4. As for longgevity, so far I haven't gotten any bad temperature over 6months. When I am doing my maintenance after 6 months or so, the paste does not thicken as much as MX6.
 
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ragnarok95

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I bought a 20G tube of AMeCh SGT-4. Should last for the rest of my lifetime.
 

elmariachi

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I am already using it for sometime and recommending it to most I know. It's cheap and it performs even better than the MX6. Some might say that they didn't get good results but for me, I have a consistency on thermal application unless the paste is too thick (refer to spoiler below)

MmTjVjw.jpg

it comes with a card and spatula
Dnj3DzP.jpg


The key on thermal paste is not to apply alot, a thin layer which allows your coldplate to sit nicely and firmly.
I always apply this method (timestamp 02:28).
you can laugh at as I am OCD but with a reasons. This method is not new but I just implemented some new ways.

Reason to apply this way.
  1. When you place your finger, your heat from your finger will transfer to the paste, this makes spreading very easy
  2. As mention, a thin layer. around 1mm to 1.5mm thickness. This is just as an estimation on your finger. As it takes time and practice with the feel on how thick or thin when you spread it.
  3. You won't waste paste as the scotch tape will contain the paste while you are spreading it. As mentioned, with a little practice and feel, I am able to get thermal results close to 90% accuracy.
  4. There won't be much mess, easy to clean or to reapply thermal paste during maintenance.
  5. This to some is overboard, but for me, I don't need the AM5 protective shield or contact frame. AM5 1718 socket is aligned properly, if you apply contact frame, sometimes it can worsten the thermal result, due to unbalance torque.

if anyone interested, at 19 bucks you can get a 20g tube https://amzn.asia/d/2ied91z

@Phen8210 is ok no worries.. :) PTM7950 is overall good. just that I perfer paste as am again OCD, I do maintenance every 6months to keep my PC Parts clean and sparkling.



Kleozy, this seems like another SYY-157 from the looks of it. Would you say it's similar other than the easier application?
 

KleoZy

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Kleozy, this seems like another SYY-157 from the looks of it. Would you say it's similar other than the easier application?
ah.. this one I haven't try but I see alot talking about this paste SYY-157 .. lets see if I can write in to request for some.. need to know where they are based. hmm.. the packing looks same as AMeCh SGT-4. lets see how.. thanks for pointing out.
 

KleoZy

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I bought a 20G tube of AMeCh SGT-4. Should last for the rest of my lifetime.
just keep in cool dark areas without sunlight. it will last very long.. and don't put in fridge.. I have done some test.. if paste are straight from fridge and applied.

1st harder to apply, abit hard
2nd even if can apply, paste tend to dry up faster. I believe is due to the condensation and evaporation.
3rd I find it harder to clean off from copper cold plate as compared to nickel cold plate.

Anyway Thermal paste is best not to expose to sun or kept in fridge. the BEST is to keep it in camera vault, away from sunlight and without camera inside hahahah. I ditch my old camera (non digital) and use the vault to put thermal paste only.
 
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Phen8210

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just keep in cool dark areas without sunlight. it will last very long.. and don't put in fridge.. I have done some test.. if paste are straight from fridge and applied.

1st harder to apply, abit hard
2nd even if can apply, paste tend to dry up faster. I believe is due to the condensation and evaporation.
3rd I find it harder to clean off from copper cold plate as compared to nickel cold plate.

Anyway Thermal paste is best not to expose to sun or kept in fridge. the BEST is to keep it in camera vault, away from sunlight and without camera inside hahahah. I ditch my old camera (non digital) and use the vault to put thermal paste only.

Putting in fridge or even worse freezer can cause phase seperation, if that happens can throw away already.
 

soreloser

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just keep in cool dark areas without sunlight. it will last very long.. and don't put in fridge.. I have done some test.. if paste are straight from fridge and applied.

1st harder to apply, abit hard
2nd even if can apply, paste tend to dry up faster. I believe is due to the condensation and evaporation.
3rd I find it harder to clean off from copper cold plate as compared to nickel cold plate.

Anyway Thermal paste is best not to expose to sun or kept in fridge. the BEST is to keep it in camera vault, away from sunlight and without camera inside hahahah. I ditch my old camera (non digital) and use the vault to put thermal paste only.
you plan on doing testing on coolers? I saw recently that a few thermalright coolers like the royal knight 120 and the royal pretor 130 already on sale for 1-2 months, but not a single person has made a review on them strangely. Quite cheap also, on taobao the rp130 is about $55
 
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